jacob80

Hey guys, I searched this the other day but can't seem to find the write up that explained how to do this. Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!

My mistake. What I meant is what you said, items that will pull large amounts of amperage (fan, fuel pump, etc.) So basically, keep things like the MS and 02 sensor off the same aftermarker fuse block as my fans, fuel pump, correct?

I was thinking about this today. Since my fuel pump and coil are powered through my relay board, would my MS be considered a big signal device?

This is true.

Could you either be more specific with a part number or photo? How many amps is the relay? Do you have a writeup or have a write up for the install or can share your experience? Also, where do I pull power from? Still not clear as to why there are two black/yellow stripe wire leads (switched).

Wrapped in tape? I guess i don't understand. Are you saying the wire wont be connected to anything? Sounds a little weird to me.

Hey guys, A while ago, we installed a starter relay to help fix a starting problem, but it seems as though it hasn't worked out the best. We still get the imfamous "click" even though the battery is in proper working order and the wiring is fine. I think we shot ourselves in the foot when we installed this because (if I"m right) we still used the same high current source which is the problem in the first place (correct me if I'm wrong). I went ahead and pulled the relay off to inspect things and figure out if I could remember how it all worked. Unfortunately, I can't figure out what wires on the stock wiring harness do what. I'll come back to this. While I was at it, I pulled all the terminals off the relay and discovered that they were corroded (and keep in mind, this relay is only a year old and has been sealed from water by electric tape and its cover: This is the first time I've ever really messed with a relay and have learned how they work. I knew that there was "stuff" under there, so I went ahead and pulled the cover off to find this!: This isn't a big deal because I can just get a new one, but I'm just curious as to why this is rusted/corroded and if there is something I can do to prevent it or if its a sign of a bigger problem. Back to my wiring situation. Right now, I'm trying to clean up the wiring and make sure all connections are appropriately fastened and that I know where everything goes and why. Here is what was connected to the relay: Basically, there are three wires coming off the factory wiring harness: the red heavy gauge wire (I'm assuming this is the high amp source which is causing the problems) and two black wires with yellow stripes. Right now, I'm thinking that these black with yellow stripe wires are the switched source, but why are there two and why do we have them come together into one spade connector? I forgot which number on the relay it connected to (I'm assuming either 65 or 86 since its probably a switched), but I'm confused as to why there are TWO. I believe the main problem here is that we are still using the factory power source that supplies power to the solenoid. Like I said, we're chasing our tail because the purpose of the whole mod is to use the relay to engage a better power source. If you guys could tell me how to properly hook up a relay to my starter so that I can eliminate the problem, I would appreciate it so much. Here is a link to the basic guide to how to wire it. I'm pretty sure this is the way I want to do it, but correct me if I'm wrong. http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html One more thing. When you turn the key to "on", how is the car receiving switched power? Is it from the starter somewhere? I'm just a little confused, maybe that is what the second black.yellow striped wire is for? Thanks guys!

The fuel injectors will be routed separately. The majority of my sensors that are up front (tsp, clot, iat, dizzy, etc) will be in one loom and run around the driver side rough the cabin and back over by the battery where the relay board is. My injecot harness is simply going to curve around the back of e motor and directly to the relay board. Hopefully I won't end up with any noise with this configuration.

Other than the fuel pump and fan, is there anything else i should be worried about giving off a lot of interference to my other sensors? That's another thing. I would rather loom the big amperage sensors together to have them separate from my other sensors. We have been running our relay board in the engine compartment ever since we started. Thanks!

I think this is a good method to run the fan. Are you using a relay board? I'm under the impression that I could actually use the relay that has been built onto the relay board (which I don't use). Perhaps you're not running a relay board? I'm with you on the noise thing, now I just need to figure out how to run wire to my big stuff all while keeping the runs fairly short.

Easy there, I'm new to conceptual wiring, so give me some slack. I do agree that things such as electric fans and fuel pumps should not be commonly grounded with megasquirt and things Ike a wideband. Question: Are you not supporting my fan control via the fast idle relay that is already installed on my relay board? My thought is that introducing multiple power sources makes troubleshooting even more complicated than it needs to be. I understand that circuits that draw a lot of amperage will create more noise than those that do not. I agree that instead of running a power lead all the way around the engine bay back to my terminal strip is probably not the best idea noise wise, but what if i use a shielded wire and take as many precautions to prevent noise? Like I said, I am looking for simplicity and organization all while trying to maintain a solid, noise free EFI wiring harness. Thanks!

Wow, that engine bay is amazing! Will this bubble my powdercoating (heating)?? Must they be tapped to NPT threads?? No fittings that will screw right in that adapt to AN?

The whole idea is to bring all grounds and power leads (whether they be switched or constant) back to one central location for simplicity and organization. I am also trying to keep my wiring and engine bay as clean and minimal as possible. I'm also going to configure my circuit board so that I can use the fast idle relay for my fan on my relay board. I believe this also makes troubleshooting easier. What do you think??

Hey guys! Currently, I'm running a hydraulic oil hose (yuck!) from my valve cover elbow fitting (stock) to my catch can (83 L28ET). Does anyone know where I can find a fitting or method in which I can convert over to an AN/stainless braided hose? Like this: Looking for a minimalistic look all around. Thanks!!

Well what do you think of my wiring diagram? From what I understand, you wouldn't recommend have the electric fan and megasquirt, dizzy, and fuse block all grounded together? I just want to keep everything together, you know? Simplicity is key here. Thanks!

Thats the thing. The reason I think this is a good idea is beacuse: strip>battery>engine gound path. Wouldn't this be fine?? Here's my potential diagram:

Hey guys, Well I'm doing some re-wiring on my Megasquirt and have a question about grounding. I want to run all ground/power leads to 10 position terminals strips (one for ground, one for power). Does this sound like a good idea? I was thinking I would run a heavy gauges wire directly from the battery negative to a 10 position terminal strip and run grounds for everything on my Megasquirt there, such as the fan, distributor, and relay board ground. My theory is that this will make it much easier to wire and keep all grounds together. The same will apply for power leads. Thanks!

Looks like half of the bearing from the turbo.

Could you link me? Is a temperature of 205 acceptable for normal driving? What I'm trying to figure out is what temperatures are too high for normal driving and occasionally getting on it, but nothing harsh. I see that John is seeing a temperature of 200 degrees on the track, while i can easily see that while beating on my car a little bit while not even being very hot out (77 degrees). Keep in mind I hav a turbo motor without an oil cooler, but I am running an aluminum radiator with a front mount intercooler. A new injector lowered my temperatures dramatically (one cylinder was running lean/hot), but its still a little high for what I'm used to. Thanks fellas!

Whats the explanation for heat in these cylinders? Also, turns out I had a bum injector causing cylinder 5 to run lean/hot and I was experiencing temperatures of 215 with a 160 degree thermostat. Just replaced the injector and now I've maxed out at 175. I reached that temperature after a hard run idling using an MSA aluminum radiator, single fan on an L28ET. Is it normal to see this temperature with a 160 degree thermostat?

John, What temperature are you running on the track? Are you turbo?

Hey guys, Tried searching, but couldn't find an answer to my question. Right now, we have a 160 degree thermostat installed in our L28ET with an aluminum radiator and front mount intercooler but stock water pump. Running semi hard, we had it pumped up to 207. Isn't that dangerous to be running that hot? The temperature gauge shows thats 250 is dangerous (according to the 'red' indication on the gauge). Keep in mind that we are not running the ZXT oil cooler. Thanks guys!

Yes I did, but I had no success. I'm thinking that my fuse for one of my injector banks isn't in its slot on the relay board properly. This may or may not be the problem, but I'm not sure it has anything to do with accel if this is happening at idle, right?

forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=980776 Keeps redirecting me to the main site, but I need to see this article! AHH!

I did finally get the car to run. By accident, I switched the constant and switched 12v power sources. I was having an issue with only the back three cylinders being wet with fuel and the front three weren't. How is this all related? Now I'm having another issue. THe car will idle amazing well at 11 AFR but when I put any load on it, it will start to lean out like crazy. For example, I was sitting in the garage letting the car idle and I rolled back to the end of my 15' driveway. Once I was at the end, I disengaged the clutch and sat there. It started leaning out bad and running rough. Any ideas? Thanks guys!