jacob80

Hey guys, Well, right now I"m pretty fed up with this damn motor and how it just wants to piss oil everywhere. About three weeks ago, I installed my second oil pan gasket just to have it leak again. Oil seems to be coming from the front crossmember area and soaking it with oil and leaving a six inch wide spot in the last two days. This happened after I retorqued the bolts to 7 ft. lbs. When I installed it, I put a thin layer of gray permatex on the gasket and let it sit for about an hour. This was recommended to me in another thread from a member that has said he did this and has never had a spot of oil leak. Am I doing something wrong here? Please share your experience with your oil pan gasket, and if you've been successful, what you did to apply it. Thanks!!

Touché.

Wow, I too see an issue with those oil lines. They look like they're begging to get kinked on a speed bump or rough terrain!

Ok, I just visited Advance Auto and picked up one of these: Hopefully this is what you guys are talking about when you say seal puller. Wish me luck!

I seemed to have no luck pulling them out, but I have solved my problem. Like I said, Fidanza stated that the flywheel dowel pins are drilled for 225mm and 240mm, and sure enough, it is! I had a machine shop pull the dowels and the pressure plate now lines up great. Thanks for all your help guys, now hopefully I can get it on the car along with the transmission with no hassle!

That makes sense. Which of these two do I need to pull it out? Autozone Pullers Link

Awesome! Thanks, it seems to be working out so far, now I'm just fighting the stub axle nuts to install the 27 spline ones, grrrr!

Awesome! Sounds easy enough I suppose. Hopefully I can get it out that way if possible, thanks! I've noticed that the seal in there right now is not completely flush with the back surface of the block. I remember when we rebuilt the motor that it looked a little off, but now I'm seeing it really is, like one side was pushed in a little more than the other. I want the new seal to be flush with the back of the block, correct?

Wow...seems simple enough! I believe I was getting the typical oil leak coming from the hole between the transmission and the block, which isn't for certain the rear seal, but it was pretty oily on the back side of the motor. The motor and transmission were rebuilt, but I just have a bad feeling about the seal that is in there now because we had a hell of a time getting it in there along with the side seal and rear main cap. If it is really this easy, there is no question I will do it ASAP! Do I absolutely need the puller, or can I figure something out myself? I just don't do enough of these to justify it, perhaps they do rentals at autozone? I have a puller for crank pulleys and such, so maybe that could work. Thanks for your help!

I would think so, as well. From what I've read, the dowels are used for alignment purposes. Apparently others have run a 240mm setup on these flywheels from this forum, and I haven't heard any complaints, so I would think it would work.

Wow, according to that article, that head allowed the L16 to rev to 9000rpm making 232hp! Simply. Amazing.

Okay, update: I just called Fidanza and he said that they do not install dowel pins from the factory and that whoever I bought it from must have installed them. I bought it from the seller on eBay: My link WHat he said was that their flywheel for the 280zx has two patterns for the dowel pins; one for a 225mm clutch and one for a 240mm clutch. As of now, I am going to assume that where the dowel pins are now, they are aligned for the 225mm clutch, and that is what I had been using prior to switching over to a 240mm. Although the manufacturer has stated this, I am still a little worried. I keep looking at this photo and I only see that one dowel pin hole is going to line up, but it may be just the way I am looking at it or how the photo has been taken: Let me know what you guys think. I'd like to hear from some guys with some experience. Thanks!!

Hey guys, Yesterday, I attempted to install my new ACT NX2-HDG6 pressure plate/clutch setup with no success. I ended up pulling my Fidanza aluminum flywheel off and discovered that my dowel pins run on too small of a diameter compared to what the ACT wants (bigger diameter), which results in misalignment of dowel pins, but my six bolt holes still line up. The only solution I can see is to remove the dowel pins. What is the risk of running without these? Hopefully it is okay, because apparently other members have done the same via this link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/69817-fidanza-aluminum-flywheel-problems-not-for-240mm/ Let me know guys, I've having my machine shop remove the dowel pins for me at lunch. Thanks!!!

Hey fellas, I did a little digging and couldn't find anything for my specific question. While I have the transmission out, I want to replace the rear main seal. I've discovered traces of oil on the back-side of the motor, just below the crank/rear main seal. The motor is still in the car, of course. What is the best method to do this? Is it a matter of prying it out and tapping in a new one with a wooden dowel? What is the risk/potential damage if done incorrectly? What is the appropriate installation? Thanks guys! Engine: 1983 L28ET

This is AWESOME!!!

Bringing this back up. Very irritated right now because I ma trying to install my ACT NX2-HDG6 clutch/pressure plate for a 1983 280zx turbo and the dowel pins that the flywheel came with preinstalled do not work. It seems as though since the pressure plate diameter is bigger the holes for the dowel pins are too far out. Help! Can I remove the dowel pins and run without them? It just is not working with them in, I've sat and tryed everything for the past two hours!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but both CLSD and VLSD R200s use four bolt CV shafts, so thats out the window. Only difference being the spline count on the differential output side.

Well that really stinks, I'll definitely be getting at least a partial refund because this is NOT was I prefer to have. Thanks for all your help guys!

Well I guess it works, but I really would of rather had the CLSD as what was stated in the ad. What are the pros and cons of this one vs. the CLSD?

Okay fellas, I got the bolts off the ring gear, I guess my impact gun decided to kick it in gear and show somebody whats up. Anyways, I've been trying to break my stub axles nuts free with the strut housings off the car (which isn't recommended), so I think I'm going to install the strut housing on the car, bolt up the wheels and lower it on the ground and use a long breaker bar and hopefully it works. How much success have you guys had with this method? Should I expect them to break free? Thanks for your help!

Wow.....GREAT. I have the modern motorsports adapters, will they work with this setup still? So these clutches are now rendered useless that I was going to install? I will see if they work. Thanks for your help guys. I'll go check now.

So to sum it up, this isn't an LSD?....

I'm not sure, I posted the ad. Is there any way to tell the year??? Ugh I really hope this really isn't the case....crap.

Here is the ad: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/90218-r-200-lsd-37-finned-cover-z31-cv-axels/page__p__855472entry855472 I bought everything.

I bought it from dsommer right here on the forum. The casing says R200 and it even came with the finned cover. Let not assume its the cover that came with the LSD. Oh man this really grinds my gears...UGH.