jacob80

I don't like it though, normal or not. I think any kind of movement/play in these parts will (over time) create problems faster than if there was no play. Grrr!

Exactly. I know that any play is not good. I wish I just knew where to start! I want to say its normal, but I just don't think it is!

No I have not, and I'm not sure what else to check! I may drop my rear end and drivetrain and have them inspected by a professional because at this point, I'm totally lost

L28ET Stock T3 Front Mount My intake is snaked through to the front of my intercooler (cold air intake) I stay right around the 80-90 degree range.

So I would have to take apart the cable that goes from the relay board to the ECU and add a lead from SPR1 on the PCB to an "S" terminal on the relay board, correct? I will read up a bit more on the wiring side, but I will say I am still unclear as to how the "JS..." part of it ties in. Thank you for your help Matt! EDIT: Just did a little reading and came across this diagram that shows the relationship between the DB37 and relay board: http://www.bgsoflex.com/mspower/mspower_ShemV1.2.pdf Looks like Pin 3 on the DB37 is a ground, which would make SPR1 a ground, correct? Then, it looks like S1, S2, S3, S4 and S5 are screw terminals 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 on the relay board respectively. I'm sure the "S" terminals are labeled on the PCB, correct? Also, what would I need to ground using SPR1? I already have ground my relay to a common ground source. Thanks!!

Here's a more distinguishable diagram I found on the MS site: Is this what it will look like? Will this all be right inside the ECU box? If so, where do I run wires OUT?

I'm totally unfamiliar with the terms "SPR1" and "S terminal," I will research. In the mean time, feel free to fill me in

Simple enough, thanks Matt!

Matt, I went ahead and ordered the parts from Digikey. I'm assuming I'll be wiring my fan output "setup" according to this diagram: Then, once I've wired this (which I haven't figured out completely), it looks like I'll want to use "OUTPUT 2 (X5) source" (correct me if I'm wrong). Also, the temperature also looks close to what I want it to be except I would like to have it come on at 190 and turn off at 180. Looking back at the wiring to use Megasquirt outputs: It looks as though I will need to use "JS3" due to the fact that it is equivalent to output 2 in this photo: Then, on the MS wesbite part numbers needed, it listed a relay. I ordered this, but can't I just use my plain jane 5 polse SPDT 30 amp relay instead? I'm also a little confused as to how this will all come together considering I'm using a relay board. IIRC, I thought I saw an output for JS3 on the relay board. I'll have to take some photos when I get home and eventually draw a final wiring diagram. I'd like to keep things as simple as possible. Thanks for your help!

I believe this is a 24" unit IIRC

Updated my original post with a second draft. I'm now working on drawing in a starter and once I figure out how to wire the fan, that will be drawn in as well.

Matt, I would MUCH rather do this. My question is, is THIS the resistor that you're talking about? The one that jumpers the IGBT? Or is this required as well as the resistor on the dizzy signal wire? I have a resistor as pictured above wired as well as the resistor on the dizzy signal wire on the PCB 3.0 board. Thanks!

Now would probably be the best time to do it. All signs point to yes regardless.

Thanks man! I'm still working with the diagram to clean things up visually. I also plan to incorporate an MSD box in my setup. Now that I think about it, I wonder how hard it would be to add it to megasquirt. Hmmm...

Matt, I guess I'm unaware as to how and where to install the resistor inside themegasquirt box, if you could tell me where/how to do that I would appreciate it. As far as the fan relay, perhaps I drew it wrong. I have a constant going to one of.the poles which will be switched on by a megasquirt output. Thanks!

Yes, please state what the problem is and we can go from there.

I'm sure you mean 1/4 WATT 1k ohm resistor. What seems to be the problem?

Yes, I believe I'm very safe when he confirms this! BUT, I want to point a couple things out. Disregard my fan relay not being hooked up for now, I'm still in the process of figuring out how to have megasquirt turn it on and off. Secondly, I forgot to draw the line to the starter from the relay. I have actually tested this relay and it works but I still have the same problem of a "click" that will randomly happen and it won't turn over. After I quickly turned the key from "on" to "start" multiple times, it'll eventually crank. I have ZERO idea what is going on there. I've replaced the starter and had the starter I have now tested with no success At any rate... Could you look over the diagram closely for me? I just don't want to have to do this whole process again Thanks guys!

What kind of connectors? They are GM weatherpack connectors, very handy indeed! Does the wiring look good, or are there things I need to change??

So you approve of my wiring, Matt? Ahh, what a relief!

Here's the diagram I'm going by Yes, you're right, but IIRC, the fuel pump relay supplies 12v while to fire the coil, it must be grounded through megasquirt (I think?).

Hey guys, Drew this wiring diagram up in Omnigraffle, took me about two days! Really like the program. I know its small, but its the first time I've drawn one on the computer, so give me some slack! First Draft: Second Draft: Let me know if this looks good. If you see anything questionable just holler. Hopefully I can get some responses by tomorrow afternoon as I would like to start wiring it up. Thanks guys!

Yes, you can purchase these clutches from a member off here. I bought some but turned out I actually have a viscous LSD , but I'm hanging on to my clutches for the next CLSD I find

I have a stock T3 with a thrashed compressor wheel, but I haven't pulled off the stock downpipe yet to see whether or not the other side is damaged. Regardless, I highly doubt the turbine housing is damaged. I would let the whole assembly go for $120 shipped. Let me know if you're interested and I will pull of the downpipe and snap some photos.

My guess is that the obvious answer is yes, you should replace it.