jacob80

Hey guys, Quick question here! Well I just soldered on a replacement terminal strip onto my relay board and bundled my wiring a little better, but now I'm having a small hiccup. I turn the ignition to "on" and the fuel pump primes and I get a little under 40 psi of fuel pressure. All is well. I crank the car and it fires momentarily, then dies after about one second. I can hear the injectors clicking and the pressure is consistant, also the car sounds like it wants to run and doesn't sound like its missing or anything. Any ideas here? I have a good tune on it too. My distributor phasing is the same way it was when I came off, but I did put on a new cap and rotor. Will the phasing need adjustments or should that not be an issue? The terminal block on the relay board is the one with the injector grounds and the fuel pump + (terminal "5"). Thanks!

Whats your best suggestion on doing this? Essentially, you would have to replicate the stock hardline and its bends. I would think the easiest way to do this would be to bend it to shape before you put it in the car and just bolt it up? And just for the record, I've heard of guys running 400hp with the stock 240z hard lines, also without a surge tank.

Well I really don't know what to do at this point. I plan on draining the oil out of my rear end and checking for metal shaving but if there aren't any shavings, what is my next step? I was planning on driving from Nebraska to Branson to the Z fest with this setup. I have yet to replace my trannyy insulator, so that's another item on my list to be replaced.

Here is a datalog of the lean condition, you'll have the venture down the log to see where the car is idling and slowly the AFRs increase. http://www.mediafire.com/?1m2yjntiyzt

Update: I've discovered there has been an overload in my fuel pump/coil circuit. Let me describe my problem in more detail: I start the car, let it warm up, drive around and when I come to a stop and let the car idle for more than ~1-2 minutes, it starts to climb lean and the idle AFRs are very inconsistent and it starts to run rough. Later that night, my car quit on my and I discovered that terminal 5 was melted and desoldered itself from my relay board, therefor disabled fuel and spark. Towed it home and discovered that the end that plugs into my dizzy cap was melted; the metal end was no longer part of the wire as a whole: I checked my fuel pump wiring and all looks well. Matt Cramer stated that the relay terminal block terminals are rated at 10 amps, so the circuit was overloaded somewhere. The odd thing about this was the the 10 amp fuse on the coil + side was not blown, and it is part of the circuit. I'm thinking that somewhere, the circuit is contacting another wire that is pulling more amperage maybe? How did my coil wire get melted, yet the 10 amp fuse on the positive post of the coil not blow? I did that my IAT and TPS wiring contacted the exhaust manifold and melted my loom and the wires a little bit, but it doesn't appear that my fuel pump/coil circuitry was affected. Is this a factor I should consider? Thanks for your help guys, I've already ordered a new terminal block and coil wire!

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. I don't like that I have any play in my drivetrain, especially considering the fact that if I'm on the slack side and drop the clutch harshly, I may damage my rear end pinion or ring gear. Hopefully someone has some advice for me as far as this play. Thanks again!

This condition occurs after the car has been driven and warmed up to operating temperatures, so afterstart is ruled out, thanks though!

Hey guys, Well I just got my car tuned a little bit but now I'm having a little trouble with the idle. After the car is warm and I have driven around a while, and I idle for about a minute, everything is fine. After that, the idle starts to become very lean and runs rough. Any ideas of what this could be? My fuel pressure is good, and the car pulls good vacuum so I wouldn't think there is an intake leak, but maybe I'm missing something obvious here. MSnS with stock turbo distributor, L28ET.

In the past year and a half, I've rebuild and swapped in an L28ET into my 240z. First off, this is plenty power, even with the stock turbo. I plan on putting on a bigger huffer but man, its scary as is with the stock turbo! Of course I will become bored with the power and want more, but a stock L28ET swap is definitely adequate for the kind of power you're looking for. As far as your rebuild, I would just rebuild it to stock spec if you're not going to push over 350 hp. The ARP hardware isn't necessary, but is good insurance for that power level. Pretty straight forward swap, nothing too complicated as far as build suggestions. Good luck!

Hey guys, Well, I've made a video listed below with my MSQ and datalog following that video with that MSQ as the current ECU burn. Seems like I'm getting some hesitation as well in some spots. http://www.mediafire.com/?jtiymmzzmmm http://www.mediafire.com/?ndyjy2kvoyj Any help is appreciated. Thank you!

Will these housings/lenses work with the HID kit you listed, FricFrac? http://www.datsunrestore.com/h4_bright_white_kit.html

When you refer to "star ground," are you simply merging the two ground for each headlight together, then ground the single combined ground to a single location?

Oh yeah, I just had a brain fart. I was at Car Quest looking for the 3M stuff as per you suggested when a guy suggested Permatex: The Right Stuff. This guy was swore up and down that this stuff is amazing. He said he guarantees it will work or I could bring it back for full refund. I believe it really did work and my small leak is actually a result of a broken front cover bolt. We'll see what happens with this one, but so far so good!

Actually, it turned out well, but there is a very small leak where the old one was but nowhere nearly as bad! I have a feeling its my front cover that is leaking, but hopefully I can seal this up with the Permatex The Right Stuff. Still in testing stages though, but so far so good!!

Personally, I just finished this project. Let me tell you what I did: Well, our floors had to be replaced, so the ole' "while you're at it" thought came to mind and I was installing a whole new rear end anyways, so I went ahead and did it. I used a combonation of a needle scaler and a torch/putty knife to get everything off. This is all you will need to remove any undercoating under the car. Once I removed all the undercoating, I washed and degreased everything and applied a couple coats of POR-15. That is really about it. For anyone that reads this, please, do yourself a favor and DO NOT put undercoating on the bottom of your car. What are you trying to do, protect it? I can clearly see why people would gravitate to this idea, but it will backfire. Like I said, it is more of a moisture net than anything. If you paint it with POR-15, you'll be covered. This paint is meant to be tough and durable. I'm still in the experiemental stage and watching for chips, but so far, I've seen nothing. Good luck.

Awesome, thanks! This is all I will really need other than some grommits and wire, correct?

FricFrac, you're using these, correct? http://www.amazon.com/Vision-VX-7RD-Sealed-Replacement-Light/dp/B000ES86I6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1273758067&sr=1-1 Also, where can I find the HID kit ALU-H4BXK6?

These look like some solid pieces, what do you guys think? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001ANGHK8?ie=UTF8&tag=vxu-20&link_code=wql&camp=212361&creative=380601 Also, I would assume that mounting them will be interested. EDIT: Err...I take this back. They're $230 per one! AHhhH!!!!

FricFrac, can you link me to housing's and a good hid kit? Thanks.

I wouldn't suggest running a fuel line inside the cabin, not that it was your intention but just a heads up.

L6? How much that puppy run ya?

Would these work? http://www.carid.com/1973-nissan-240z-240zx-xenon-hid/notto-hid-kit-67569.html#fullInfoTab

They are, indeed, Magnecors.

Max Boost: 7 PSI (stock, for now) I'm getting a really bad stutter around 3k RPMs while under no load, for instance when I'm cruising at ~60 mph and slowly increase throttle it'll just cut out like its about to back fire, or sometimes it will stutter. I guess thats a whole different can of worms. Its a work in progress I suppose