jacob80

If you're sure you're getting spark and fuel, then it has to be a timing issue (whether it be mechanical or electrical). Follow ZManco's advice and you'll be alright

Do you think this is related to the speedo failure? Where do these fail more commonly, on the gauge end or tranny end?

Hey guys, Well, simply put, my speedo no longer works. I really do not know why, but I pulled the speedo cable off and made sure the little cylindrical piece with ears on it were in there correctly and sure enough, they were. Tightened it back up but nothing. That was about a month ago. Last week, I noticed an oil spot about half way down the car. Crawled under and my speedo cable was soaked with tranny oil coming from the threaded hole where the speed cable goes into the tranny. Anyone know what is going on here? I can only assume these two issues are related. Thanks!!!

It is an oil temp sensor. On my pan (turbo), the sensor is exposed to the oil.

Okay, I will try this. Matt Cramer suggested that because D21 and D19 are getting hot (which he said should be cold to the touch) I should replace these. I will let you know what I find out, the parts are on the way. Thanks man!

I don't understand. How could it be faulty if it is receiving good input voltage and outputting the correct voltage? The only potential issue I could forsee is the ground resistance. Please enlighten me, I am interested!

It gets hot fairly quickly, but not super hot. I've ordered another one just in case.

Stimulator Board power voltage: 13.79v S12: 13.86v S12C: 12.86v Center leg of Q9: 13.79v Center leg of Q12: 13.79v Non-banded end of D3: 13.75v Left leg of U5 (closest to DB9): 12.8v Banded end of D9: 12.75v And for the 5v stuff: S5: 4.046v Two +5V holes in the proto area: 4.037v Non-banded end of D9: 4.987v Right leg of U5: 4.990v Banded end of D19: 4.041v CPU Pin 1: 4.035v CPU Pin 20: 4.035v CPU Pin 31: 4.048v Everything looks to be up to spec! However, when placing the negative leads of my multimeter on the Gnd of the proto area and the positive lead of the multimeter on the center pin of U5, I get a resistance of -2.0ohms (the multimeter leads have .2ohms of resistance). Is this okay? I'm concerned about this because of what I read in the megamanual: "the middle one (pin of U5) should have less than 1 Ohm to ground (use the heat sink, or the center pin of the voltage regulator, as a ground), and..."

Its probably a good idea to upgrade. As far as I'm concerned, the stock pump isn't going to supply an more fuel than the stock computer requires.

What is the status on this?

Wow, I REALLY like this idea. You know what would be perfect is one of those panels, but instead of a cut out for the stock radio, a cut out for a retro sound unit: http://www.retrosoundusa.com/products/details/id/63 I have resorted to the two pod gauge pillar But, if this piece comes into production, I will definitely be taking out the pod and placing the gauges in these locations!

I would check the timing on everything: cam, ignition, crank. Sounds like its not advancing timing due to other factors.

I, too, will be doing fuel lines in the near future. Those lines looks awesome! How difficult was it to bend them? Did any of them kink on you?

"Don't be hatin'"

This is true. Its as if the pops become louder as you come down from high RPMs, sometimes to the point where I just disengage the clutch because I am afraid to harm my motor (in some way that is beyond me).

Hey guys! Well I've run into a problem I can't seem to pinpoint myself. Lately, I've been working on installing an additional relay output on my PCB in which I have successfully done just that, but not I've run into another issue. Last night, I was performing some tests on my new output when, after about 5-10 seconds (it will vary some), all lights went out and all Megatune gauges went red and there was no signal from the computer. Upon removing the stimulator board and reinstalling it, it would sometimes come back on but it would not come back on if you left it plugged into the board for an extended time and tried this. When the stim was plugged in, I could adjust all the knobs and everything worked fine. My stimulator is powered by a plug-in wall adapter and I confirmed it was getting power and it is (~12.5v DC). After I confirmed this, I went ahead and performed this test with the exception of one of the steps: "stim voltage (~9 Volts), on the pin nearest the DB9, the middle one should have less than 1 Ohm to ground (use the heat sink, or the center pin of the voltage regulator, as a ground), and 5.0 Volts on the pin furthest from the DB9." The step I did not fully complete is the resistance test. IIRC, I put the black lead of my multimeter on the "GND" of the proto area and the other on the middle pin of U5 and had a reading of ~1.7ohms IIRC and it says the resistance should be less than 1.0ohms, so perhaps this is my problem and I just need a new voltage regulator at U5. Here is a datalog right before the Megasquirt powers off. I'm looking at the voltage and I want to believe that is my problem: Thanks for your help guys, I do appreciate it! (Matt Cramer, I have emailed you about this issue. This has been posted on the Megasquirt forums, as well.)

Uhhhhh...? Why would somebody do this to a car? Honestly!

Stock 4 speed. I've been using this transmission for the time I have had my L28ET on the road and it is great. Why not go with this tranny? I've heard that they will hold well up to 300hp from a Z specialty guy, but I cannot remember his name off the top of my head.

Link: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/19918-the-ultimate-turbo-faqbeginners-guide/

Fan circuit it working flawlessy on the bench thanks to a new transistor! Yay! What a pain in the butt!

Thanks! I'll be confirming whether or not I have success with the fan when I get home this evening. I must have shorted out the transistor.

I haven't looked at your diagram above very losely, but I think I had a bad transistor. I just briefly had a chance to test my circuit with my new 2N2222 transistor from radioshack and I'm getting continuity/12v when on and no continuity/0v when off. Ahh, what a relief! I'll let you know what happens!

Here ya go: Somehow, I LOST continuity when the output is on....ugh. I'm thinking I may have a bad transistor, but at this point, WHO KNOWS!

Thats what I was thinking, I'll go ahead and wire that piece in place and let you know what my results are!

Yes, that's what my proto area looks like, but for testing purposes, I only have my transistor installed right now as well as a lead fRom the processor going to the base of the transistor.