jacob80

Yeah, I said some silly things in this video. What I meant was that as of right now, it does idle at that and it wasn't unusual. Yes, it is extremely rich and I hate it! I did lean it out the other day and it idled decently around 13 AFR but after some stop and go driving, it idled like absolute crap and wandered like no other. What could be causing this? Perhaps I should increase my timing advance?

Yes, my timing does line up. I set it to 10 degrees advance while cranking and that is what it is showing. I am running the stock 7 PSI for boost right now, so I do not need that high of a kpa scale, but I have yet to find a good timing map that maxes out at 7 PSI kPa equivalent. Perhaps someone could throw one my way? Thanks!

Well here is my current spark map:

Well here is my current spark map:

30 degrees? Really? Maybe I'll try that! I'm at like...15 now, is that bad? What is stock advance? 30 just seems pretty extreme for idle, but maybe not. Thanks!

I'll have to do some research on that, but what is this I'm reading about shimming the starter? Perhaps this could be a potential problem?

Hey guys, Simple question here. What would cause my starter to scratch right when my motor starts? It's almost as if it doesn't get out of the way in time. Thanks!!

Ok guys, major update, ...it runs! Very odd circumstances with this one. I tossed and turned for two hours last night beside myself about driving the car without a 100% tune! When I got home, I popped my radiator cap off and it was green as grass, good sign! Next, I checked my plugs again, compression, and timing. All looked good! This was very odd I thought, but I'll go with it. Hopped in the car and tried to start it, did the same thing. Crap. Went over to the computer, reflashed my MSQ and tried it again. Same thing happened. At this point, I wasn't sure what to do. I grabbed my video camera and made this video: Self explanitory I'm just thanking god that I didn't grenade the motor, ahhh so relieving!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And yes, I did say I was checking the oil and popping off the radiator cap, ahahahahaha!

Definitely! That is something I was looking at last night and the gauge on the rail is measuring a normal 37 PSI, but of course I'm second guessing myself. My brother once had issues with his 240sx running like absolute ****...then he realized he was out of gas! Just to make me feel better, if I don't hear any knocking, see any plooms of smoke, or have any oil on my spark plugs, and my compression is good on all cylinders, could I almost conclude that I have sustained no terminal damage? If I had some serious damage, wouldn't I hear a knock or something of the sort? I'm really hoping its just a bad fuse or fouled plug or SOMETHING. I'm just driving myself nuts today thinking about it, just hope someone has a good idea of what it could be. When I get home I'm going to check my compression on all cylinders, like I said. I'm also going to bring all the pistons up and shine a light through the spark plug hole and see if I see any damage or oil on the pistons. Then, I'll check all my vacuum lines and intake manifold in general and see if when it back fired it just didn't pop something off. This has happened to me before when I went to start the car, there was some sort of back fire through the intake and some smoke came out and blew my vacuum lines off! Very odd. Hopefully this ends up to be something silly because I plan on attending the Branson Z Fest in about a month (as many of you probably already know). Once again, thanks for all your help guys, I don't know where I would be without ya!

Yeah I'll definitly do a compression check of all cylinders this evening. This morning, I went ot and tried to start it again, which it sid, but it just doesn't want to stay running. I've experienced no smoke so that's a good sign. Yes, I am running megasquirt and spark, but what could I have fried? It almost seems like I have a really bad vacuum leak, but j checked my lines and none appear as though they've popped off, but who knows. It very well seems like an electrical issue, but I'm not sure where to start. What could I have potentially screwed up? Perhaps I popped a fuse? Thanks for your help!

Hey guys, Well tonight I was giving my brother a ride in my 240z with an L28ET and had a little mishap. My tune isn't 100% and theres a spot where it cuts out, but at any rate, at some point, I think I hit that point and then a small backfire IIRC and then it died. That was odd, but I started it and it started just fine, but when I went to rev it, the O2 gauge just went completely lean and died. I started the car again and it idles fine, but when I touch the gas, it hates me. This scared me, but I was hoping it was just a fouled plug. We proceeded to push the car 1/2 mile back home to do some diagnosis. Came home, and pulled the plugs. I was scared that I either A) Blew a head gasket, Blew a hole in the piston or C) blew a valve stem seal, if that is possible. I cleaned the plugs and compression checked 3 out of the 6 cylinders, and they all checked out fie (~140 PSI). I also checked to see if any of my vacuum lines or intercooler piping blew off, but a I saw nothing. Went ahead and tried it again and the same symptoms occurred. Right now I am absolutely distraught and am regretting driving the car without a 100% reliable tune. I know I shouldn't have, but what is done is done. What is the next step? I plan on going back and confirming that all cylinders are up to ~140 PSI, but then what? I hear no knocking or anything terminal of that sort, just doesn't want to rev. Thanks for your help guys!!

Does anybody have any other advice for me before I start messing with timing? What should be my method of tuning this point in the map?

Awesome write up!! I would like to run tWo oil pressure gauges in the cabin, just to be safe. Do you know what fittings I would need to do this??? Thanks!

Just another thought. I've come to the conclusion that the clunk that was evident prior to installing my new drivetrain components is the EXACT same clunk that was occurring before. The only thing that I can even possibly think of that I didn't replace is the transmission insulator. Could this be the culprit that is causing my clunk? I kid you not, the sound is identical, I was so disappointed when I pulled out of the driveway for the first time to hear that clunk! I haven't heard anyone suggest the transmission insulator, but its the last thing I can think of other than the differential back lash. From there, I would have to go so far as to say the transmission is the problem SOMEHOW. Ugh I just wish I could get rid of this sound! Ahhh!! EDIT: There is one last thing that may or may not be a factor. We did have our stock 4 speed rebuilt, which is what is being used as our transmission, and even since we've had it rebuilt, if you don't shift into first and then reverse, it will grind if you go directly to reverse. Perhaps this could be a factor?

Hey guys, Well I've just dropped my oil pan to change my gasket and wanted to check my pan for metal shaving. I did make a discovery, but perhaps this is negligible. As I wiped my finger across the bottom of the pan oil and examined it very closely with a shop light, I could see these very, very, very small metallic chips, almost like the metallic in paint, but probably not even that much. Nothing I could feel, just metallic. Is this something to be worried about? The motor was just rebuild probably not even 1000 miles ago. Could this just be from the rings and bearing being broken in? Thanks!

Does it not bug you to cut up those nice, original Nissan fenders? Don't get me wrong, it looks good, but man oh man, I couldn't bear to do that to my beautiful original fenders.

Does it not bug you to cut up those nice, original Nissan fenders? Don't get me wrong, it looks good, but man oh man, I couldn't bear to do that to my beautiful original fenders.

Alright, will do. I'll probably have some time to work on it later this week, school has got me pinned down right now. I'll let you guys know if I discover anything else suspicious in my diagnosis process. Thanks for all your help, I'll keep you updated!

I did, but I need to do it again because I was laying under the car pushing it myself (if that makes sense). I guess my question while does this test again is; what exactly am I looking for? I know that if the differential rocks around then it has to do something with either my Ron Tyler Mount or the mustache bar nuts. But, at least from what I saw last time, it looks like the driveshaft is just turning along with the wheels and all that when I rocked it back and forth. It didn't look like anything was necessarily loose, does that make sense? Just looked like movement in the driveshaft/pinion back lash/transmission? I'm so lost

Ok, so here is a video that hopefully shows you guys how much play is in the drivetrain. Is this too much?

Awesome! So are you saying that both the 240sx and 240z both have 5/16" feed and return lines? Will someone confirm that the 240z reed and return sizes are both 5/16"?

Alright, cool. Maybe I will idle the motor for five to ten minutes then wait for it to cool down and retorque.

Yeah, you're probably right. I only proposed letting it sit overnight because I don't want all the adhesive mushing out the sides of the gasket since it'll still be gooey. But, like you said, may I'll 1) Apply the adhesive and lay on the gasket. 2) Immediately set the pan on the block, but don't hand tighten. This will let it get positioned. 3) After a half hour, hand tighten the sucker and let it sit overnight. 4) Torque the bolts to 7-10 ft. lbs the next day. One more question: After running the car, should I wait for it to cool completely before retorquing, or retorque while it is still hot? Thanks!!!!!!!!

HA! Yeah, after dropping the pan now twice and installing one on the initial build while out of the car, I think you, too would be gun shy. Its just frustrating because last time, I took someone's advice by using gray Permatex ultra and it just didn't work. Granted I do feel much safer with 3M stuff, but maybe its just me not doing something right. This time, I'll make sure its done right. I'm going to clean the hell out of everything with brake cleaner, hammer down the ant hills, clean again, double check cleanliness (LOL), glue the gasket to the pan, put the pan up, tighten the bolts hand-tight, let it sit overnight, then tighten them 7-10 ft lbs the next day. Hopefully, this will work. What do you think?

All I'm saying about the surfaces is that I can see why you would only glue on the pan side of the gasket. Yes, I agree that taking a ball peen hammer and hammering down the ant hills is a great idea, which I will be doing. Is the 3M adhesive going to stand up to the heat? What about it's resistance to oil? I'm sure it works wonders when applied to actual weather strip used for sealing water, but is this adhesive appropriate for this application?