jacob80

I see it as coating the bearing housing is resisting heat transfer from the hot exhaust to the metal housing itself, therefor keeping the housing and the bearings the the housing houses (LOL) cool

Here is what I want done: 1. Im having G Pop Shop balance my wheels and would like to rebuild the turbo myself and have the center section ceramic coated as well as the turbine housing. I would also like to have the compressor cleaned up and looking nice as well. 2. I would like that exact setup you have pictured. But, I would want that Tial 38mm wastegate, if you can guarantee I wont have boost creep Well, no guarantees, but how much success have you had? 3. Lastly, I would like the manifold ceramic/jet hot coated as well as the downpipe. So essentially, just as you have pictured.

Okay, sounds good. Do you have an email I can email you at, or a website? Thanks!

Danggg that race tep site has everythng you need!

Like this one, too: which leads me to another question, will I need to tap threads into that port on the compressor housing for my external wastegate boost signal? I took off the internal wastegate actuator and discovered that all it is is a hole with a rubbeIr o-ring to seal it. Thanks again!

It is identical to the one on the right

In your opinion zya, do you trust aftermarket gaskets?

So you're going under the car with it I assume? This will be going in a 72. And dang, it looks like the turbo barely clears the steering, wow!! If you could give me a quote with everything, or a link to your website, it would be greatly appreciated. I wonder of you guys do ceramic coatings as well....hmmm Thanks!

Also, is a goal of 400hp out of my range with stock ceramic coated pistons, combustion chamber, and valves with a stock cam P90 head with the HY35? I put myself at 350 because I'm confident I can make that number with this turbo.

Wow, that is exactly what I'm wanting! Perhaps you could do the puck, manifold, and downpipe for me? I'm not sure what your services consist of, but that woul be simply awesome! Where are you stuffing that big 4 inch intake tube? Looks great!

I'll look tonight but I do know the battery is grounded to the bolt that hold the starter to the engine.

Also, I have the stock dodge downpipe which includes the flange. Should I have a downpipe made and welded to this stock flange, or is there a vband adapter for this turbo I can purchase?

That's awesome, could I buy directly from you when the time comes? As far as the compressor housing on the HY35, the actuator mosnt is actually cast into the housing. Could I grind this piece down and make it look pretty? I don't see the use for it. Also, would you be willing to weld a flange piece on if the manifold was sent to you? I feel confident with you doing it of anyone. I will be rebuilding the turbo and having g pop shop balance my wheels with my bearings as well ad ceramic coating the center section and turbine housing.

That's good to hear! On the DSM forums, they're saying they're making 550hp and have said nothing about smoking turbos as far as I've read. So as far as this install, I'll weld the puck shut and go external, that's fine. I have never really looked at external gates, but what would be an appropriate one for 350-400hp with this specific turbo?

I've called g pop shop and they said turbos are not specific to diesel or gas because I was worried about the exact same thing, which is why I am having the bearing housing and turbine housing ceramic coated.

So the stock turbo drain tube will bolt up?? Perfect! as far as oil feed what is your setup?are you using the stock oil feed? What fittings are necessary?

Hey guys, Yes, I have read through the sticky, but have not been able to pin point mu answer to my question. I've just acquired an HY35 and an 82L28et in which will both be rebuilt with ceramic coatings. Right now, I'm looking at my wastegate options, which leads me to my questions: 1. Is it possible to utilize the stock internal wastegate with an aftermarket actuator, or will I experience too much boost creep to obtain a target boost level? 2. If external wastegate, I will need to have the internal wastegate welded shut, correct? 3. As far as having an external wastegate installed, i am worried about cracking welds. What is the best way to approach this? What I had in mind is taking my exhaust manifold and turbo to a shop, have them drill out a hole, wd on the flange, and the. Take the manifold and have it ceramic coated and then follow up by wrapping the manifold with headerwrap. What are your opinions? 4. As far as oil feed/drain flanges, will standard T3 flanges with an male ports bolt up, or will I need a different solution? I would like to go AN with the fittings, as well as being worried about the stock oil feed line diameter. Also, where/how can I adapt to an AN line as far as pulling oil from the block? Could I drill out the stock oil feed port on the distribution block and re-tap it, or is there not enough meat on there? 5. Will I experience any kind of boost surge with this turbo? I'm having the head rebuild, but prefer not to port it out, I'm not even sure it would be necessary Thanks guys!

I just swapped to the bosch upgrade. I'll go through the dizzy wires tomorrow night and will see what happens, whether they're okay or perhaps something is right. Could grounding the ground strap (smaller gauge wire) and the megasquirt to the same ground cause a problem?

Could the spark plugs be the problem? I've never changed them, but have cleaned them off multiple times by torch, they've been subjected to some serious heat...

As in, the signal wire going to the megasquirt, correct? The one the puts out an RPM signal?

Okay, scratch what I just said, I just reloaded the firmware and everything seems to be working. Okay, so what we have here is some sort of voltage spike that I caused by wiggling the wires right around the distributor which must have completely fouled the firmware. What now? What, up around the distributor wiring, would cause this? I was wiggling the wires coming from the distributor.

That is very good advice, I believe you're absolutely right! Just went out and wiggled some wires around the distributor while the car was running and it fell on its face. I go to crank it and nothing....the fuel pump won't even prime now and I brought the ECU inside and hooked up the stim board and now the stim board lights nor the ECU lights will come on, nothing. Have I blown my board? If I have, how do I know? Ughh this is so odd, I'm not sure what to do now. Please help!

Yikes...

Yeah, I take it back, its running like crap Here is my MSQ and a datalog: Datalog: http://www.mediafire.com/?d40zvoxz0je MSQ: http://www.mediafire.com/?hjnzgyz2jgz The RPM/AFRs are just going up and down and up and down, and I have zero idea why. Then, it will just die out of nowhere while idling and when the megasquirt resets, I can see the lights on the box momentarily flash off, then on. I think a complete rewire may be in store, unfortunately. Any ideas?

Well I think you guys are officially geniuses, I'm pretty sure the reflash worked. Although it was missing on a cylinder (fouled plug), the car was not experiencing any roughness that it was and autotune was working, yay!! Here is my MSQ, let me know what you guys think. I cannot thanks you guys enough!!!!!!! HybridZ RULES http://www.mediafire.com/?mjnww1mnrng I'll let you guys know if I have more success tomorrow. THANK YOU!!!!!!