jacob80

Hey guys, Just letting you know, the car is running great! Not only is it running great, I'm notgetting any resets! I know this because the SecL counts up to 255 and starts over, everytime! I was extremely proud when I extracted this garage queen for the garage and got a couple gallons of fuel. I cannot describe the feeling of this car finally coming back to life after a months messing with my inition module, megatune settings, blowing fuse, "sticking" HP fuel pump, and the coil. I would first of all like to say thanks to you guys, I have learned more trough this car that I have anything. HybridZ rules! I do have another question. Although I did swap out the coil, my dwell setting were all at 0 (as you know) before the problem went away. My question is: Is my coil bad, or was it because the dwell settings were not set? I did test the coil primary winding at .9 OHMs, but I'm still curious as to if this was truly the problem. Could these setting have been blowing that fuse, or is it definitly my coil? Thanks again fellas!

Okay guys, just went out and tried a few things, and now my fuse isn't blowing (yay!). Here is what I did thus far: A) I feel stupid, but all three of my dwell settings were set to 0, so I changed those to: Crank Dwell: 3.0 Running Dwell: 2.9 Minimum Discharge Period: 0.5 B ) Grounded my distributor to my intake manifold (this is most likely negligible, but I did it). C) Replaced my blaster 2 coil with the stock coil off my '72. I popped the fuse in and turned on the key and the pump primed as it should for two second and no blown fuse! I'm still having starter problem But I think it may be the starter, because I am getting 12.5v to the solenoid in cranking mode. Lately, the solenoid click has become a little more faint, so I'm thinking its the starter, better than wiring issues I suppose! I'll keep you updated, I'm waiting for my battery charger to put a good surface charge on the battery, this is the only way it will turn over after "clicking." I'll keep you guys posted!

Where do I enter those numbers? Aren't these my dwell settings?:

Look Below

Okay, so here are my test results: Margin MSD calls for: Primary Winding: [.6825, .7175] OHMs of resistance Secondary Winding: [4.3875k, 5.6125k] OHMs of resistance My Results: Primary: .9 OHMs Secondary: 5.021K OHMs Looks like my primary winding may be shot. I'm a little leery of these results because when I simply touch my fluke leads together, I'm getting .2 OHMs of resistance. Should I add this to my numbers, or has MSD already compensated for the resistance of the multimeter (fluke)?

Good point. But, what if, my dwell settings are optimal and the coil resistance on both windings check out okay? If this is the case, I would like to start looking at my fuel pump relay. I have a feeling it may be causing a voltage spike when it disengages which is blowing my fuse, but then again, why is the fuel pump staying on after the key is turned off in the first place?...

Well my coil has a 10 amp inline fuse on the positive post, so what kind of damage could have occurred?

What dwell settings should I use?

Can you support this suggestion?

Additionally, I've also replaced my vb921 with the Bosch upgrade. Not sure if this is relevant. Thanks!

Hey guys, Well, I have my newest addition to my problems, and hopefully this is the root cause to the others. Here are my symptoms, beginning with the fuse blowing: 1. Well, ever since I don't know when, I've had trouble with starting. I'll turn the key to the on position and turning the key further into the cranking position and it would just click, then as I released and returned the key to the on position, which resulted in another click. "Click click" was the sound. Never any sluggish starter behavior, it either starts or just clicks as I described. This may be related, this may not. Maybe you can help. 2. At idle, my car will maintain fairly linear AFRs until warm up has disabled and then shortly after, my AFRs become VERY inconsistent and the car eventually is starved of fuel and dies. I can start the car again and it does the same thing. 3. I've been having an issue with resets in megasquirt, which show up in megatune. These resets are nothing that shuts my car down, but when watching megatune, the gauges "blip" for a split second, and you can tell that something has reset. This issue has not been resolved, and I have been in the process of trying to pin point my issue when all of the sudden, the next issue occured. 4. I'm blowing my fuse on the 12v+ side of my coil. I am using a blaster 2 coil via this wiring diagram: Here is what happens: Normally, when I turn the key to the "on" position (no cranking), the fuel pump primes for ~2 seconds and shuts off. Everytime the fuse on the coil blows, the fuel pump will stay on constantly, no matter what. This is where it gets weird...I notice that it is staying on and turn the key to the off position, and the fuel pump stays on for ~2 seconds AFTER I have turned the key completely off and following the ~2 seconds after the key is off, the fuse on the coil + side blows (I see a flash from the fuse) and the fuel pump turns off immediately. Now, the first thing that comes to mind is perhaps the relay is stuck/bad? Perhaps something on my relay board has soldered together and arced something? All wire connection seem fine, I have checked continuity of the wires from the coil to the relay board and they seem fine. Any help is appreciated, thank you AGAIN!! Here is my MSQ: http://www.mediafire.com/?hjnzgyz2jgz

Hey, your motor is what I am modeling mine after! I'm looming for a cam that will give me a 400hp+ number. What is your setup?

Later this weekend, I will hopefully get a datalog including the recommended information sch as the TPS and MAP DOT included in the datalog. As far as the MSQ, I've been using your recommended settings Moby in the sticky.

So as a core, do they regrind your cam and send it back to you? Or keep your cam and grind a new one? What is iskys prices for a cam for your core?

What is TPS/MAP dot? Did you also mean to say disable EGO correction? I say this because regardless of autotune being on or off, this wandering still occurs. Thanks!

Hey guys, Well I am in the process of planning my 400hp HY35 build and know I'm going to need an aftermarket camshaft. Now, I have done zero research as to what lift/overlap/etc etc I need for a 400hp L28ET, but I did stumble across the MSA camshafts on their site. We did order a camshaft for our L24, which ended up being a schneider. My question for you guys is, do you guys have any experience with these cams? Who makes these cams? I have an 82 motor, so I would be ordering one accordingly. Thanks for your help!

Well I am using the diyautotune serial cable which I just bought because I was using a USB cable that kept causing megatune to freeze, and it fixed that problem. I really just need to know how to fix this wandering idle issue...

That's right. The car idles, but has a hunting/wandering idle, what adjustment do i make to correct this? Adjusting VE tables values does not seem to work. Once I get a stable, consistsnt idle, I would like to enable autotune and datalog a gentle drive and see how it looks and monitor whether I get anymore voltage spikes or true megasquirt resets. Thanks!

I do not unfortunately if I can figure out how to get a more consistent idle and figure out autotune so it doesn't say "Tuning point outside window" perhaps I could start tuning and get a datalog and see what it looks like. Amy suggestions with these two remaining problems (hopefully!)?

This is one of the most beautiful installs I have ever seen, I dream of having something like this some day. Looks absolutely flawless, and I'm loving the coil pack cover art!

So looking at the two datalogs above, would you conclude I am not expeiencing anything abnormal at this point? Are the inconsistent AFRs a completely different problem? I would assume so, but I think it's a tuning issue, I'll be starting another thread about that, as well this evening.

Yes I did, and I went through the entire thread. I'm going to go through it again and see what I can carry over to my car. That aside, I did find that my ground for my dizzy was questionable, so I went ahead and resoldered that connection and datalogged it. Here are the datalogs, the first one is starting it completely cold: http://www.mediafire.com/file/izz2vinmyye/1-19-10 (1).xls http://www.mediafire.com/file/dg1kywdey2z/1-19-10 (2).xls Well, here is the first voltage drop to 7.9v. I will say that I noticed no resets this time just by sitting in the car. Here it is: Here is a second drop, except this one is a drop down to 8v. Is this a normal behaivor? There seems to be no other variables affected by this voltage drop: As for the first datalog, those are really the only voltage drops, with 7.9v at the lowest point, is this okay? On the second datalog is when a reset happens, although I did not notice it by sitting in the car. Here is the first reset/voltage drop: Does this look normal? On to the next one. On this one, it isn't a reset, but it is a significant voltage drop. I believe I punched the gas pretty good and fast, but didn't seem to affect the variable there after: Another one, looks like I hit the gas pretty good. Doesn't look like a reset but just a big voltage drop: Let me know what you guys think, maybe I fixed it? My only question is, why are my AFRs so inconsistant? At one point, I locked in the spark advance shown here: Its very weird, maybe the pulse widths are too big? I'm completely guessing here...any help is appreciated fellas, thanks!!!

Are you talking about the ground you have to solder for the megasquirt? I'm running a relay board, so there is a ground, switched 12v, and straight fused 12v that had to be soldered. Like I said, I will be going through all my grounds and possible just resoldering everything.

Well I'll try and run through all my grounds and make sure everything is up to Par I suppose. Just bizarre because I've run the car for almost a year now without any kind of problem like this. Very bizarre...

You know what they say...better safe than sorry! I mean I would because that piece is emitting some serious inertial force and if that piece came loose...well...I don't even want to know :/