jacob80

The install is actually very straight forward, and there are diagrams everywhere. Are you using a relay board?

A clutch that will actually hold! We put in a spec stage two which won't hold any kind of load under boost too much power! He he actually the next thing are floors. Thanks again fellas!

I know! This damn snow needs to melt fast! Now to figure out tuning from here. On top of all this, I just installed a new oil pan gasket and head gasket no leaks! Everything is going perfect right now Now, I just have to figure out the tuning part of it

Great news guys, IT RUNS!!!!!! I couldn't be more excited, this issue has had me baffled until you guys stepped in and gave your time and effort voluntarily to help me figure it out, and I thank you so much. Here are some pictures and videos

Okay, good to know. Thanks guys!

1973 240Z, sorry about that. I didn't know the ZX had a slot for the muffler tip.

Well, I'm thinking its a VB921 issue. If you go read my thread, you'll see. Anyways, I do not want to make any body modifications whatsoever, just fit the tip through the cut-out in the rear lower body piece below the taillights.

Hey guys, Well I just put ANOTHER new head gasket on my L28ET which has been rebuild with the stock P90 head but we put the "improved valve stem seals" from Ford. I replaced the head gasket because I noticed oil was leaking down the side of the block a little bit, but nothing major. It was a Fel-Pro gasket but I just replaced that with a genuine Nissan L28ET gasket. Just to be sure, I took the head to the machine shop to ensure flatness. Not sure if this is even a factor, but I just compression tested the motor a week ago. Keep in mind I have not really run the motor (as we have a bad clutch) and this is a cold test. The tested results ranged from 120-115. I read somewhere that the FSM calls for 145 :/ Is this something to be concerned about? I know they're consistent, but are these numbers too low for this situation? Thanks guys!

Hey guys, Right now, we're running a Dynomax Turbo 2 muffler (muffler that comes with the MSA kit). We used to be NA with it, which was pretty loud, but now that we've gone turbo, it is almost silent So as of now, I'm looking at a straight through muffler that will be about midway between loud and quiet because we have a cut out installed. My question is, what is the biggest diameter tip that will fit through the exhaust pipe cut out in the rear lower bumper? I'm thinking something along the lines of an HKS Hi-Power or a Greddy TiC. Thanks guys!

Okay, well, we'll see what happens. I'll let you guys know what happens when I put it in. I appreciate all your help. Obviously, if it wasn't for you guys, I would not have been able to figure this one out. Thank you

So may we conclude that my VB921 is fried, and that it is safe to assume that is my problem?

Why wouldn't you go to a junk yard and snag what you need off a turbo motor and walk away not spending any more than $200-$300??

Black with yellow sound like a tach wire, don't take my word for it though...

I'm definitly leaning toward the possibility of a bad VB921 at this point.....

Here are photos of my board, doesn't appear that anything is fried, does it??

Here is a video awhile ago when it was untuned and before I changed head gasket: http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view&current=102_7842.flv Gosh I miss this

Ok, so here is a little test I did. I used the timing light and put it on the wire from the coil to the distributor. Here it is: http://s617.photobucket.com/albums/tt260/jacob80a/?action=view&current=102_8628.flv I'm thinking its my VB921....I've ordered the bosch upgrade. What do you guys think??

Here is something to note....R9 on my stim board is EXTREMELY hot, I just burnt myself!!

Okay, thanks again!

Yes we do, I need to double check it though, that's another thing I will do when I get home. As far as the cap and rotor and such, how do I go about checking these things?

Okay I know that's not the case! Ha ha, alright, well hopefully I get a spark

Okay, so back down the run dwell to 3.2 and do the coil test. I'll do these thongs and get back to you guys. I did confirm the timing was spot on before my spark decided to take a dump on me. So if there is a spark when I put that coil wire on but then no spark on the plugs...then what?

So keep the dwell where it's at, or optimize it? I hope I didn't fry my coil...

I've never ever touched the dwell settings...let's hope this is the problem...

Here is my most recent MSQ file!! http://www.filedropper.com/1-29-10