jacob80

I'm a little cobfused...how do I test the ignition switch? When you refer to the, are you talking about the actual switch the key is inserted in?

I have not confirmed that I am getting at least 12v to the solenoid when the problem occurs, I will confirm that tonight. Just to be clear, if I use a multimeter and measure the dc voltage at the positive side of the solenoid while the key is in the cranking position, it should be at minimum 12v, correct? I will test that tonight. Thanks for the great response! Also, this problem will happen even when I have my battery charger on the battery in the "50 amp engine start" mode. The starter has never been sluggish, ever, it either works great or it will just click. There is a click when I turn the key and a click when I let go of the key.

It's a garrett t3 a/r 42 m24. Would this put me at 300hp at least? Thanks! http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v160/simpleaznx/?action=view&current=IMG_0009.jpg

Went intoegatune config and that seemed to fix my wideband problem. As far as the afr table, what do I set the values as? Are the afr tequirements about the same for l series engines? Does anybody have the afr table for a stock l28et? Thanks!

I'm very interested in seeing this!

Here's my datalog that is giving a reasonable reading: http://www.mediafire.com/?5ljtwhmwfmz I just wonder why the gauge within megatune is all screwy. I'm using an LC-1. How do I configure my wideband within megatune? Using MS1 V3.0 MSnS 029y4

Okey dokey then, I'll just try and trouble shoot myself, thanks.

Hey guys, I must have changed something because the car is idling like crap! Using Moby's MSQ settings. Also, my wideband gauge seems to be reading correctly in megalogviewer and on my gauge, but within megasquirt, the needle is buried all the way to the left. Any help with that is appreciated also, thanks guys!! Datalog: http://www.mediafire.com/?zdmyn3zfjji MSQ http://www.mediafire.com/?em2yhgkbjmz Thanks guys!!!

Well good mews, I repaired my fan and the car was staying nice and cool! Currently, we have a 180 thermostat in the car, so it sounds like that's what I will be using.

I am using your map moby, and I am letting it warm up to about 180 degrees before I do any adjustment to any settings. How do I manually disable all enrichments? I've read somethingabout turning gamma setting to off will do this, correct me if I'm wrong, thanks!

Ha ha! But where is this relay you speak of under the passenger seat? I have seen no suh thing, and my interior is, well, there is no interior.

There is some kind of plastics switch piece I discovered which is located on the floor under seat. dos this have something to do with starting? Maybe this is the switch your talking about, it's like a big pedal looking thing made out of black plastic, it was just laying under the passenger seat, very odd...

Okay, I will check the ego settings. I am using 42 lb/440cc Bosch low impedance injectors.

Well right now, I'm attempting to dial in a good, solid idle. How should I go about doing this? The idle is faiy stable as-is, but tends to hickup and die after prolonged idling. Once again, any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Okay, assuming that, I did adjust the correct parameter but...now what?

Use a timing light and check your timing. If you have fuel and spark with correct timing, it WILL start. I suspect your timing is off, you'll probably have to twist your distributor to line it up. If you truly have spark and fuel, you're not in that big of a hole.

Mine is a 73 240z...I have never heard of them having a neutral safety switch, also, I believe it has always had a manual transmission. Can someone tell me if these cars had a neutral safety switch? Thanks!

I can't even imagine how hard it would be to put the downpipe(s) on, very good art though!

Hey guys, so I finally got my car running and idling decently, but now I want to follow the mega manual and go through the whole tuning procedure in their order. Well, the first thing on their list, after you get your car idling, is to tune the idle for lowest kpa, which I believe it is at untouched at about 31/31/33 kpa at idle. Okay, easy enough. I then move onto the next section which talks about setting your PWM. So I do that and it proceeds to tell me to decrease my PWM duty cycle (I assume this is equivalent to current limit) in 1% increments. Well, going from the suggested 30%, I proceeded all the way down to 1% in which there was no change in idle quality but simply died at this point. The process basically told me to decrease it until the quality deteriorates and at that point, increase it 3-5%. Well I'm looking at a lot of your guys' maps and yours not only even below thirty, some of you have it set at 45. Maybe current limit is not the same as duty cycle. Could somebody clear this up for me? Any help is appreciated, thank you!

It states "do not strike with hammer" lol. This is a brand new Bosch gear reduction starter, it seems to me like more of a power issue to the starter. When I hold the key to crank, no lights dim or anything, so I'm not sure it's the battery because you would think that everything would dim when I turned the key if I had low voltage from the battery.

It's so random, very hard telling what is going on. Say, for example, one time I was doing a compression test with the battery charger on the battery. I got through all cylinders but one and it just didn't want to crank, just "click," very annoying. Once, I was at a cruise and I killed it and low and behold, it wouldn't start so I had to pushstart :/ where do I begin diagnostics?

Block was hot tanked when rebuilt, so that can't be the issue. I took your advice and ordered a 160 thermostat and water pump. Were also running an MSA aluminum radiator which is fairrly new but we were using it on our old L24 that was pretty nasty, so perhaps I should clean it out somehow, just to be sure. Any other suggestions? Am I experiencing anything out of the ordinary consdering I was running it with no fan? Thanks guys!

Hey guys! We have swapped in an L28ET and have been having starting issues. Here us what happens: i put the car on a charger all night to trickle charge, just to make sure the battery is fully charged and not an issue. I go out to start it the following evening and all that happens is the solenoid clicks. This happens also when I use a screwdriver on the starter to bridge the connection on the starter, i'm pretty damn sure it's the solenoid that is clicking. We did install the starter relay mod but it still has the issue. After this happens, I put the charger on 50amp engine start mode and wait about 5 to 10 minutes. I go back out and it turns over to start, but sometimes, if it doesn't start and I let it regroup and attempt again, it will just click once, it never clicks multiple times. What could this be??? Thanks guys!

Okay, cool. I have a fan installed, just having power issues. The only reason I ask is because I replaced the head gasket because of overheating issues, so I pray it isn't happening again.

Hey guys, Well I've just put a new head gasket on the car, new oil and new coolant, and while sitting and idling for about ten minutes, the temperatures climbed to about 219 degrees. I shut the car down, I was not about to let it get any hotter. Keep in mind that I was not running a fan, which very well may be the reason, but is this normal without a fan running? Right now, its not kicking on for whatever reason (working on it), but I'm not about to warp my head. Thanks guys!