jacob80

Okay, so pull to wire from the distributor to the coil off on the coil side, and while someone cranks, slowly plug it back in and the spark should jump and i'll be able to see this? I guess I'm not sure which "post" you're referring to.

Okay, did that, and we have ~11.5v to the positive side while cranking. Now what?? Right now, my only thing I can think of is wait and see what that VB921 upgrade/replacement will do for me. Can you think of anything else I could try? Lets see here: 1. I have power to the coil positive (12.Xv) while the fuel pump primes when the key is turned to the ON position. 2. I have power to the coil positive while cranking (~11.5v) 3. When plugged into the stim, the spark light (D14 I believe) flashes, as it should. 4. My dizzy is sending an RPM signal to the computer. 5. Using a fresh spark plug, I am getting no spark. This is what I have come up with through my diagnosis process. If the VB921 wasn't working or slightly damaged, would the spark light on the ECU still flash without getting spark to the plugs??

So put the multimeter to the positive side of the coil and see what it says while cranking, correct?

Yes, the coil has power when the pump is priming.

Yeah I changed them. I'm out of ideas as of now....this is extremely odd. I have power, the coil is getting power, the dizzy is giving a tach signal...what could it be???????

Just tested it, the coil received a 12v charge when the pump primed! Right now...I'm just confused because plug will spark only when it wants to while cranking...am I not getting enough power while cranking or something?.....

Correct me if I'm wrong here, but when I turn my key, my fuel pump primes for about one whole second, then turns off. According to this diagram, if the fuel pump turns off..won't that cut the power to the coil too? Sure looks like it would...

This is probably an EXTREMELY stupid question, but I am using a fluke and it will be DC, correct? Sorry lol

Yes, and I just hooked it up to the stim and its firing (yes!). Also, with the key switched in the "on" position, there is not 12v to the coil positive, this is an issue, correct?

Well I hate to say it but I bet it's fried because I haven't had the output set to inverted just ordered one just incase. I didn't harm any other parts by doin this, did I?

Uh oh...it's not inverted. I hope I didn't fry it! If I did...is it possible to fix it opposed to buying a whole other board?

Wait wait wait here just a second, shouldnt my spark output be set to inverted according to this diagram?

Vb921?...not sure what that is, maybe the triggering device in the ecu box?

Megasquirt, it's jumpered

I do notice that I doesn't show that it is cranking...maybe that is because I didn't set that cranking RPM or flood clear.

Here is my datalog file from last night, I found it! http://www.mediafire.com/?g0njugju5jz

And it did prompt me. Let me see if I do have it after all...

Yeah I tried that yesterday but no file showed up after I did it. I simpy went to file>datalogging> start datalogging then after I was done I pushed stop but then,the file was nowhere to be found I'll try it again tonigh though. I don't have to have megalogviewer running to datalog in megatune, right?

Okay, cool! So would you say my distributor wiring is fine, or is it not safe to assume that? I just pray it's not fried or something of the sort

Okay, I will be sure to do that when I get home. It should ve a constant 12v dc to the coil positive at all times that the key is turned on, correct?

Well if the power source from the fuel pump to the relay is either disconnected or has a broken solder, that would prevent power to the positive side of the coil, but furthermore, the fuel pump would still work via the switched power source. Unfortunately, now that I think about it, the power source to the fuel pump to the relay board must work because the pump primes before cranking. Grrrr!

Walbro 255 pump

Now that I think about it, the fuel pump is wired to the old switched 12v source AND the relay board because we were having this nasty backfire issue where the fuel pump would lose power abouve about 2300 rpm and everytime the car would pause and then BOOM! A giant lean backfire would occur. Could this be an issue? I'm afraid if it is, then I'll turn around and have problems with the fuel pump again....hmmmm

I can look it over, but I'm not sure how I would bench test it. Any suggestions?

Okay bit I'm just trying to confirm I dont have a bad distributor, just to eliminate a variable.