socorob

If you get another one, take your old one apart and see if you can get the needed parts machined. I'm sure if you got a few sets made to sell you could probably recoup $$

http://www.cachassisworks.com/c-185-rack-street-machine-manual.aspx I always wondered how hard it would be to adapt one if these. They come in 1 inch increments in length so it should be easy to get one that's close. Not sure how hard mounting would be.

Where did you get the rack? I looked into one place several months back, and they only replaced seals, so you had the luck of the draw if you got one with good metal bushings. I think there was a thread either on here or classiczcars about it.

I thought about doing that but didn't have the time. I was gonna put Datsun on one side and 280z on the other. That's gonna look good.

One of te pairs I have have broken studs. I was thinking drilling it out and epoxying in stainless carriage bolts in place.

Talbotco has the convex Californians.

What shop did you try?

I saw an s30 maybe on Facebook that had the gtr front grill.

Call urethane supply company They are helpful, have a lot of products, and are in the top of your state.

Kinda sorta like the Miatas backbone setup.

That panel bond stuff dries pretty hard.Better be careful sanding or all the foam areas will show as depressions.

Jack point? Mass to help with vibration? I wondered that myself when I took mine off.

I see people use multifunction gauges for the large ones, as those are readily available, and singles for the smalls.

When I was ordering my vintage air stuff the guy said the evaporator, compressor and condenser has to be designed for 134. As long as it all is, it's just as cold. How many cars AC systems in the last several years haven't been cold? I think in the early days of the switch they were just using 134 in the old style hardware. When I was at the AC shop getting my hoses crimped, that guy said they are talking about doing away with 134 in the next few years.

The new ones he sends are made in china from a company called omega.

Fuel system is finished except for a short piece of return hose and 4 clamps.

If you have a local speed shop check them out. There's one about 45 min from here and they sell main hoops. From the narrowest to widest they carry, they come in about 6-8 widths. It looked like they were 2 inches increments in widths. They said they could get any hoop width made, and they were under $100 for ones they had in stock.

Please do. I would like to see how they look installed.

And here is the explorer service tag in case anyone wants to go a googlin some specs.

Just for a little info. There is an explorer parked right next to my Z. My 6 bolt Q45 axle looks to be about 1.25 and the explorer is 1.430. That's the best I could get with a caliper under there. Almost 1/4" difference.

What kind of driveline angles are you getting with that setup?

http://www.epcoshiftknobs.com/push_button.html This place has some choices of knobs and can add a button to it, and the prices arent bad. Where would the button be less obtrusive, on the top, or the 11:00 position? http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/automotive/interior-auto-accessories/shifter-knobs/gear-shift-knob-with-engine-start-button-0416042p.html#.U0gAAFf6GIA This one is nicer with the hidden button, but would prefer all black. http://www.rhdjapan.com/night-pager-missle-shift-knob-universal.html This would be the ultimate if it wasn't so expensive and could have the Datsun logo. http://www.dctms.com/product__ACS_Mercedes_carbonfibershiftknobs.html I would like to find a knob with a flush button, or a covered one as second choice. Anyone got anything?

How does it work? I've read up on how the stock works and it would be very difficult to have it work in our cars in that way. I think it looks at speed, pedal positions, etc.

If you can't find the right adapter, try using WOG to seal it. That stuff works really good.

Litmans hood looks to be fiberglass in his pictures. Thats probably why 30 pounders worked for him.