socorob

My LS alternator has 2 wires. The one large lug goes on the back and to the battery, and then I have a 4 or 5 pin plug that has only 1 wire in it. I'm going to run that to the warning light bulb in the gauge. If you're using an LED bulb in your gauge, you may have to put a resistor inline (270 ohm I think?) I needs to see some load to excite the charging circuit in the alternator. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm trying to do this off memory. I have a diagram that's at the shop I can post a picture of when I go by there this weekend if you need it still. Some alternators have 2 small wires in that plug, and they wire differently. There's a good picture on ls1 tech of it somewhere.

My 1st car in high school was a POS and being able to turn the key in gear and drive it to the shoulder was slightly less embarassing (and easier) than having to push it every time it broke down on me.

I got the car started and I think all the only wiring left to do is inside the car. I'm using a 2004 Pontiac GTO brake light switch on both the clutch and brake pedals for the cruise control, which is what I'm working on now. Here are the way I set up the controls. An on off rocker to turn it on and some momentary push buttons for set/accel and resume/coast. I have an extra set of contacts on the clutch switch. What is everyone's thoughts on making it so I have to push the clutch in to start it? I'm torn as to do it or not, as I see benefits of having it and not having it.

For future reference hook the pinks to the black wire with white stripe that went to the datsun coil.

I removed the L28 and reinstalled the LS1 with a forklift. Much faster than an engine lift.

I seam sealed everything. I prefer to prime/ paint t first then seam seal. Just check what seam seal you use. Some is made to go over primer and some is made to go on bare metal.

Yes. I found the black and white wire I pulled out of the connector that went to the coil, and snapped it back into the connector, and hooked all my pinks to that. Started right up.

Just make sure to call first. Not sure if I will be over there on Sat or Sun yet.

Or if the LS isn't available in your area, the Q45 engine may be easier for you to obtain. Check the V8 swap section and see what people have done vs what you have available.

yeah come on by sometime. It still looks exactly the same just starts now. I don't get to work on it as much as I used to since my wifes work schedule changed. How is yours coming?

Yep you nailed it.

I ran by there and checked. Had it hooked to 12v only with on and not run. Moved the wire and it fired right up. Thanks y'all!

I have 3 pink wires, 1 from the current performance box that needs a switched 12V, and a solid pink and pink with a stripe (cnt remember which color) that I all tied together and have switched power to, but not sure about start.

Its an 04 GTO t56. Figures it would be that wire. I think that's the one that fed the Datsun coil. I removed it along with a crapload of other wires that were no longer needed. I guess I will have to put it back.

Aren't the orange always hot and the pink switched 12v usually? I had to go pick up an IAT sensor this morning, but I don't think I will have time to work on it this evening. I may have my pinks to just 12v when on, not when cranking and on.

http://lt1swap.com/2004gto_pcm_pinouts.htm Would that be pin19 on blue?

You end up spending more money using harbor freight wire wheels than a name brand. The wires fly out of theirs so fast, so make sure you wear glasses. I was grinding a large area and it took 3 harbor freight wheels to do the same amount of the area as 1 I bought from the welding shop, and the good one removed material faster. The good ones were about 2 times the price of harbor freight but lasted 3 times longer and works you less, so they end up being cheaper in the real world.

I sent the computer off to get all that removed from lt1swap.com, so I hope it's right. Hopefully I will have some more time on Wed to look into it some more.

Thanks ill check that out.

Finally got it wired enough to start, or so I thought. Fuel pump comes on and engine cranks over but never starts. The only thing I dont have hooked up is the IAT sensor, since I dug everywhere for an hour and couldn't find what I did with it. Does it have to have the iat connected to start?

I used dry ice on the inside for the tar, and sandblasted the thin bottom layer off.

Ha yeah , it was almost exactly like that times 4.

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c130/myGTO/black%20devil%20motor%20sports%20pics/Picture2342.jpg My engine came with lift hooks on it like these. Its out of a 2004 GTO.

Figures all the ones I'm looking for are on the other side of the world.

We use the 2 post lift for storage, just let the weight down onto the stops to take pressure off the cylinders if its going to be up there a while. A few years back there was a leaking cylinder and my dad had to get his 4 door diesel dually Ford up there for something. That cylinder blew, but the truck was on the stop. To get the cylinder out , the truck needed to be raised 1 inch. Know how hard it is to jack up a big truck thats 6' off the ground an inch?