socorob

I just ordered mine yesterday. I have the 5 lug 300zx hubs with 300 disk and 4 runner calipers. I hope it doesn't cause me any problens. I hate having ti modify new parts, especially powder coated ones.

Thanke

Any pictures of what you did?

I've seen small PVC pipe fiberglassed into something before, like 1/2". It's flexible and easily bent with heat, and shouldn't melt. It may have even been split in half.

Will it have all the stock features. such as ac vent holes, glove box, etc.?

Thanks. I was wondering if the rear ashtray would fit in the hole in the rear of the coupe console that has the removable plug in it.

Anyone know if parts can interchange between the 2? things like middle and rear ash trays, lids, etc?

I posted the same thing in site help. Doesn't work for me either.

Looking around the junkyard, most cars around early 2000s used very similar door trim, We took some off a Kia, ranger and another car, and when we got back to the shop we couldn't tell which was which.

I just cut some sheetmetal circles slightly bigger and used body panel glue. Took about 10 min to do the whole car.

The oil pressure adapter doesn't work down there. I had to put it at the rear of the intake where gm had it anyways.

Went to google to do a search of this site. Typed in ls swap wiring site:hybridz.org, as I always do. It pulled up some pages of results, but none of them worked when I clicked on them, it gave 404 errors. Anyone else getting this?

Now its time to raise the bar.

The window place here uses gojo to lube up everything on those types of installs and they have them in in no time. I asked the installer why and they said liquid soap dries quickly and makes it harder to get in. They said they totally wipe down every inch of the seal with it and just wash it off after.

They are actually roll overs.

I extended my bad dog rails to meet the rear "frame". Now I can just put the lift or the jack under the rails with no problems. Looks like you're going all the way back with yours also. I wonder why nissan did t go back that extra little bit.

Just looked on rock auto and it looks the the same part number cv shafts were used from 81-96 for the right and 84-96 for the left on all Z's. They must not have changed them over all those years.

I'm not sure if it will work. The early q45 axles are fatter so they wont fit through the later Q45 or S13 hubs. I think the later Q45 and S13 shafts will fit into theZ32 hubs. They also have 6 bolt CV shafts instead of 5. My friend has a couple of diffs from a Z32 and late Q45 and I think he can swap them out and the axles all bolt up. Cant remember id the input flanges were different or not. I know he had the 3.7 in and we swapped the 4.10 in for a few days and then swapped them back. Those 2 swapped by just bolting and unbolting. Hes using S13 hubs. We both have TTT rear suspension and the mustache bars have different part numbers stamped on them. Not sure what all the differences are but read somewhere that the output shafts on the early Q were fatter also. I would research it very well before you buy anything. With the Q rear I used the Q parking brake setup but used the Z rotor and caliper.

What safety equipment is required for a street car to participate?

My friend pulled a q45 diff and it was a 3.7. I think it was 1995ish vintage. We pulled 2 that day, they happened to be next to each other in the junkyard. Mine was from a 91 and its a 3.54 but its different from the later one my friend got.

A 3.7 should be easy to come by, that would help a little.

I thought I read on another thread on here that moving the battery rearward hurts corner balancing of the car?

Or find a way to make that piece take a common mirror. With all the crumbly plastic mirrors out there, I'm sure someone would want one. I had to frankenstein a Hyundai mirror with my Datsun arm since I couldn't find a mirror that wasn't crumbly or black around the mirror. It wasn't hard to do actually.

I have 2 NA boxes. I cut the inlet off one to weld on the other like the turbo has. I will get some 3.5 pipe to weld for the outlet. I was hoping to hear that it fits up front before doing any work or having to put the whole front back together just to check fitment. Do you have a picture of it?

Use ctrl v to paste and that works with firefox