socorob

I already had 1 cap laying on my table in the garage when I was taking the old gauges apart and thought that looks about the right size. Happy accident. I had to go buy one more cap, borrowed the right size hole saw, so this project cost me $2.86.I drilled small holes in the sides of the cap and used the 4 screws that held the original one in to screw this in the same way.

Here's how I decided to mount speedhut gauges into the Datsun Z. I used a 4" PVC sewer cap from Ace hardware since it was flat on the end. I just cut a hole with a hole saw and grinded the knobs off the lock ring and it fit tight inside the cap. The cap is only about 1/16 smaller than the gauge pod so it all fit together easily. The hole saw was about 1/8" larger than the gauge, but since the locking ring with the nubs grinded off is exactly the same size as the inside of the cap, that keeps it centered.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#gas-springs/=rdn0lu

Direzzas are grippy street tires. Last autocross I went to watch the faster guys were switching from direzzas to rivals for whatever that's worth. A couple said the rivals are a little faster when it's dry but direzzas were a little faster if its wet.

It's a hard calculation to figure out. On my little British car I had, someone made a gas spring kit to replace real springs for the trunk. The trunk lid weighed less than the Z hood does and was much shorter, but the kit used (2) 40# gas springs and they were about perfect. Grab the Z hood with your fingers from the very front and just turn your wrists up and see if you can lift it. That's basically where the fulcrum for the shocks are going to be.

Near the end of the video is the undertray for the new Mustang. Looks like they put a lot of work into the aero for it.

I wonder if some peoples came off because they weren't put on all the way. One of mine snapped right on, the other I thought I had on, but never felt the click on. I had to pull pretty hard for it to come off but it did. In order for me to get that one to click, I literally had to lean on it will all 220 of my pounds against a bench, then I finally felt the click. I tried briefly to get that one off a few days ago and it won't budge now. I hope I can get it off to put my new ones on.

What resonator did you use?

I just got my replacement fuel push on connectors yesterday. I had the black ones with the plastic clip then read on a few different forums of people here and there having them pop off and catch or almost catch the car on fire. I decided to replace them with the blue screw together ones while I'm doing the plumbing just to be safe.

What muffler has a good flow rate but is relatively quiet? KTW-,do you have any drone with your setup?

If its set to a low amount of assist it shouldn't mess with feedback too much. I guess that would be the beauty of the adjustable knob. Parking turn it up, track days turn it off. I think the motor is geared to the solid shaft, so if it goes out you should be back to as it was before you put it on instantly. http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111532 This site has lots of good articles on all kinds of car related things.

http://zpowersteering.com/

There is already someone who makes a kit for the Z anyway. You send them your steering column back as a core when you're done. It ain't cheap though but it's all figured out.

Ebay search for electric power steering controller. You can get a box from Europe that works with GM stuff for around $65. They've been doing it over there using opel stuff (euro gm) for a while now. The EPS setup they use there must be the same as here as the box is supposed to work with GM stuff available here. The boxes come with a knob that lets you adjust how much assist you like. The hard part would be mating the columns.

Back around 1990 a friend of mine had a 4.3 in a 1980 rx7. With slicks and nitrous he would lift the front tires a few inches at the stickier tracks. Car had a full interior as it was his daily driver in his senior year in high school. If I remember correctly he was running mid 130s in the quarter with it. It was a scary little car.

McMaster Carr used to sell the shocks and mounting balls in many lengths.

I'm thinking about starting this soon. I poked around on the net and found a few people on other forums who have used this with good results. I may give them a call today to ask them a few questions about it. I may have to go with a stupid dash cover anyway because the PO filled all the cracks in mine with liquid nails and use the cover on with it and its tearing everything up trying to get it off.

http://www.urethanesupply.com/Repair-Cracked-Dashboard/ Anybody try this out yet?

That's sort of my reasoning for the hushpowers. I haven't been to an autox in over a year since I sold my other car and got the Z, but heard them talking about starting to use DB meters in the future.

Thanks y'all! They all sound good. It's time for me to start looking into exhaust and its a hard decision on which one to get. Anyone hear anything bad about flowmaster hushpower? Keep the setups and videos coming!

Just went to the garage to count mine. You can't see the gear at all like you can on the side ones. You would have to pull out the VR sensor and get something in there to mark it (liquid paper?) and try to count it through the little hole. I guess it would have to be drained first or maybe if it was stood up it wouldn't lose oil.

Anyone have them they can post, or links to YouTube videos with parts used in your exhaust systems?

Dig the toolbox in Gulf livery!

How does it work? Does it need an abs system and pump, or does it cut fuel, timing, or???

The front would be the input shaft, wouldn't it? My 2 early Q45 diffs had them on the input shafts on the front of the diff. My friends late one has them on both output shafts, 1 on each side of the diff.