voltron_boi

Yeah another one coming, after I fix the oil leaking problem. I'm tired of cleaning the oil mess in my front porch and garge.

08/18/2011 Still no reply from anyone here that might of know what the reason is. Will good thing I have some hits over at nico-club for help.    Issue one, girding issue when clutch pedal is slightly being engage while engine running. The guys say I had install my throw-out bearing backwards that's why I had that problem occurring. Luckily I have taken a picture of the bearing before transmission was going to be install. I'm surprise that the people that came n read my build build thread didn't catch it. But, o will tranny gonna come off soon, now just gotta find a shop that will let me borrow their hydraulic car lifter or manger a way to dismount and mount that heavy transmission.  Issue two, the guys say their is 3 option that it could be. Valve cover gasket, cams-shaft seal, and head gasket. Most of the guys say it's my head gasket, because i didn't milled the block when I install the gasket. But before I start to believe those guys I would like to narrow down the problems first before taking off the head again.    So, first off I check the valve cover gasket n put some gasket maker on each corner of both valve cover. Waited till the next day and started it up, and leaking occur.    Second, I then moved on to the cam-shaft seal by the cams, had to remove my radiator, hose, pulley, covers, timing belt and all those little peace in order to get to the headache seal. Ah hah, here is what I found. Over at nico-club they say I can use the z32 seal as a inter-changeable so I went to my local parts store n got a pair. It flush in no problem, but it looks different, more like a transmission axle seal. I'm in the middle of reinstalling everything back on, and hope that is the reason why, because I'll hate to redo everything again just to get that metal-head gasket out of that head and replacing it with a oem one which I don't want at all. So figure crossed

August 14, 2011 Today, I finally wire up my alternator and my fuel pump switch. Alternator is charging and fuel comes off and on when switching signal trigger.      While that is being done, I have 2 problems that I can't seem to figure out what it can be. The first, I have a little oil leaking underneath the black plate that holds the top timing cover,  leaking by the tip of the black plate by looking at exhaust cams black plate. (((Leaking not at the part where it has a threaded hole, but the bottom part tip before that.)))  I was thinking could it be the cam-shaft oil ring gasket by the cams that is not sealing completely? I tried moving the ring and troque the cam-shaft towers n place and still doesn't work. But, before I even decide to go head and order a new ring seal are their any other part that you guys should recommend me to check first? I don't want to make a mistake by purchasing a new ring, then reinstalling it and have the same problem.   Second issue, is when attempting to step on the clutch pedal their is a huge chatter, grinding noise coming out of the transmission. It gets louder and louder if I step on it more.   When it isn't being step on their is no noise coming from the transmission. Do any of the you guys might know whats the reason why it's doing that? Would be very much appreciate to any advice.Â

okay, finally I got it to start on my first attempt why recording also, . Damn, you guys just dont no how happy I was when it started. I have tiny oil leak by my turbocharger returned lines, and a coolant leak on top of my starter. Now i need to find or build a down-pipe and my exhaust system for this, cuz this thing is super loud. click on the picture to see video. sorry for the poor quaitly lol..ill get another one when i fix up the minor stuff.enoy

8/09/2011 Next, with a little research again, I found out that I can use the 300zx z32 lower radiator hose for the rb upper and lower hose on my "PRC" radiator with a little modification. I had measure the correct length and used a knife to cut off the length that I needed. I used the bottom housing as my upper, picture of the hose. For the lower, I use the top housing that you see in the picture above that I have left over from my upper hose. I used a metal pipe as a adapter to turn the hose around for the best angle. -That hose end goes into the lower section of the cooling outlet of the motor. - The part where I mark a red line, I then cut that and use it for the radiator "lower", since that has a bigger housing. So the right opening end in the picture section to the red line, is what i used to connect the other end of metal pipe. - Now, I'm ready to pour some radiator fluid into this hot machine. . I should have a video post soon of this machine "roar" anytime soon this week, so check back.Â

Yeah, feel free to come by one of these weekend if you want. Do you own a z too? Will pm me and I'll give you my number.

I should have a video up by the end of this week. Just need to wire up some wires then it should veroom, veroom. A rb25 for 6 bills that's dirt cheap, if u decide to pass on that let me know, I don't mind having a spare on the side.

08/08/2011 Finally received my exhaust camshaft from the guys n Texas. Hopefully this time nothing goes wrong. I got this from the r33 fsm to torque the cam towers and install camshaft in place. Everything bolt up and ready, but before fireing it up, going to need to reconnect the harness to the car. Hopefully by Sunday I should have a video of the rb25 alive. So stay tune guys 8/09/2011 The other day I was pouring oil into the motor and for some reason it was leaking from the oil filter housing, I maybe have forgotten to install the factory oil gasket correctly. Then got onto the computer and was surfing through online and, i came across some guys over at nico-club not running the oil cooler filter housing. So now I would be doing the same thing as what they did, since in the next couple months, I'll be running a oil cooler also. -Taking out the stud from the rb25 oil filter housing They are using the stud from the 240z,260z,280z,280zx oil filter housing from the L motor. I payed $11.00, ship from texas. -Left stud is the z stud, right is the rb stud For-now, I will run just run the oil filter itself until the car is completely running, then I'll install a oil cooler to it.Â

I think I forgot to mention on my project thread, on what I did to mout the wheels on the car. Will I'm currently runny the Toyota 4 runner brakes with the attention of griding a bit of the caliper and a 10mm wheel spacer along with 260z rear wheel studs instead, since it's a bit longer. The rear didn't required any modification. Yeah hopefully by next week, I should be able to fire this thing up. So hows yours coming along Bill? Any new update since we last talk? I still need to come by and check out ur car, keep me updated if u need anything.

July 20, 2011 This morning I received a email from ups, and it looks like I will be receiving my second pair of 16x9.5 -19 offset today. Been waiting for at least 3 months for these shoes. Got home today after work and here's it is. I took the wheels to a tire shop and made them install it to my Yokohama tires 245/45/16. Paid about $20.00 for mounting and balance. After, setting on jacks stand for 5 months, here it is fully mounted onto my 260z, ready to roll around the garage and front porch lol. Now I just need to get some zg flares and find someone to mount them on. I also scored on a rb25det exhaust camshaft that I found on nico-club for $80.00 ship. I guess that's the best site to look for spare rb parts if you ever need it . Hopefully after this, no more problem. Â

The motor has been started up by me before, it ran on my 280z that i used to own. Its about a half of year now, since start-up so i think it should be okay. I decide to just reuse my piston rings from the bad piston, instead of purchasing new rings for all 6 piston. yeah fsm was successfully download from nicoclub, thank you for the link "stony"

hey daz, I'm almost their. I just need a new exhaust camshaft, then redo the timing belt and then I should be able to fire it up. Hopefully the tt manifold will pay it off.

July 7, 2011 Received the $200.00 rb25det head that I bought from this member over at nico-club last weekend. The head looks a bit dirty n dusty when I first open up the box, but inspecting from my point of view, it looks to be in good shape. Will to really confirm that the head is in good shape,  I am going to need the machine shop to inspect it first, before i can really relay on it. So hopefully everything turns out great. Head when I first received it. July 11, 2011 Pick up my head right after work today and the head turn out good. No leakage of any sign, and a complete resurface. Paid 90.00 after tax. Went to autozone and bought a bottle of Cooper metal head-gasket to spray on my metal head-gasket. After spraying the copper bottle onto the head-gasket front and back side, then I put the head back onto the short block with the twins manifold already install. Tighten and torque everything up and was ready to install my exhaust and intake camshaft. While installing my exhaust and intake camshaft and torque them to spec, everything seem to go as plan. Then install the new idler, tensioner, and oem timing belt. Before timing belt was even mounted I perfectly align both cams and pulley to their mark. Afterwards, I then install the timing belt with the line on the belt to each mark on the head and block. I then rotate the pulley with my 1/2 rach clockwise and it rotate freely on the first turn, then it got stuck again! Then I started to rotate counterclockwise and it got stuck again after a bit of turn. As I keep on rotating, I then notice that half of my exhaust camshaft wasn't rotating and the other half was. What a bummer, I then new it from their that my camshaft was broken. It broke right off, where it had the broken exhaust valve from the previous head. Now, I'm in need of a exhaust camshaft.

I have a spare one that I used to run it on my 280z. Upgrade to z31 harness, then sold the car. So yeah asking 70 ship. If intrested just pm me, thanks

No PDF at the moment, but I sure need to download one now. Thanks Rb26powered74zcar.

June. 22, 2011 Today, I finally received my replacement piston that I bought from eBay. It looks to be the same, as the number on top of the piston are match up. I have decide to order new piston rings for all 6 piston, and was just wondering, since its going to be new rings, do I need to change the rod bearings also or can I just use what I have now. Another question, for the nissan when installing new piston rings, is their a pattern that the rings has to set? I'm not sure about Nissan, because this is my first time, but for the Honda it does. Picture below is a reference that I used when installing my Honda rings.Â

Yeah, I can't belive this happend to me. But tough luck tho, it already happend so I'm have to deal with it. Removing the rod and piston shouldn't be a problem for me. The thing that I'm not sure about is, do I use the old rings from my piston or do I just use the new piston with the rings already?

June 17, 2010 I just bought a used piston from eBay for $30 ship. He still has 5 left with 6 connecting rods, if anyone is interested. I found a complete head that a shop is selling for 400 ship with warranty and was jw if that is a good price to buy. Now gonna need to disassemble the bad piston outter the short block.

June 14-15, 2011 What a bad year for me this year; not so lucky at all this year. My Acura motor had a leaking valve when I first bought it, and then now my rb has a broken valve that messed up the piston. I was so close of having it started, after setting for at least 2 years. Will if you haven't known or seen my post on the rb section, I listed their how it happened. I know I should of post it here instead, but I just thought that I wouldn't get that much feedback here, since I think that hardly any member comes by and read every little things. Crank my motor,and for some reason the motor got lock after it rotating 2 cycle. Then use a ratchet to rotate the pully clockwise and it wouldn't turn, but when I rotate counterclockwise it will turn to half of a cycle, and then get stuck again. So when counterclockwise is lock, clockwise rotates, then get stuck again. So decide to tear it down amd took off the camshaft and cam cover, then I notice how different the retainer is setting. Took off the oil pan and see how it rotate from underneath and looks like cylinder 2 and 5 cannot rotate a full round, and 1,3,4,6 can. Decide to remove the valve lock on the springs and the valve just drop into the piston. After removing the head this is what I found. Broken valve ontop of my piston Cylinder head Piston Looks like I will be needing another complete cylinder head, and a new piston. Now, just gotta source out these parts.

Yeah, I suspecting the head is trashed, but I dont no that for-sure until I drop it off at the machine shop tomorrow. I check the cylinder walls and it look to be normal all around 6 cylinder. I'm going to replace the piston as soon as I find another good piston, because I dont want to risk anything in the future.

This is what happend to the head. Do you guys think the head is still rebuildble also. Probably gonna change the piston, and have the machine shop check the valves.

After removing the head this is what I found. Valve damage the piston Now i know forsure that i will be needing a new exhaust valve. I was just carious is the piston still useable or is it trash?

Haha thanks Ray, I was typing through my iphone and wanted to make it a quickly. I try contact Ron earlier and he doesn't have any at the mean time. I search through Craigslist and saw a long block that a guy is selling. But its kinda fishy, because it has rb20 valve cover on it. Does rb20 valve cover work on rb25 head? Plus what do i look for to confirm if its a rb25 head. stony, from what I can remember, I did aline both the cams and pulley with the mark on the black plate. When the belt was mounted on the long block, I rotate it 4 times to make sure it all came back to the mark. Probably I didn't tight the belt enough and it jump a tooth or so. I just got done removeing the valve on the 2nd picture. When I remove the valve locks and the springs, the valve just drop into the piston. Ill be sure to post up picture, once the head is complete off.

yeah hopefully it's bent valve, and nothing else. Hopefully nothing happened to the piston, really dont want to dissemble the short block. Will post up picture once head is off.