voltron_boi

Okay after tearing down the camshaft and cam cover, this is what I notice the different. Everything looks exactly like the housing number 1, upset housing number 2 sets different. Is this a bad valve? I took off the oil pan and see how it rotate from underneath and looks like cylinder 2 and 5 cannot rotate a full round, and 1,3,4,6 can. The picture below is from cylinder 2, exhaust side. So is this a broken valve then?

When starting the car I didn't step on clutch. Just crank the ignition. Taking off the cam cover and will be posting up result. Thanks

I posted this topic on nicoclub, and the guys say I have a broken valve? How can I have a broken valve when the motor ran fine before. All I did to the head is replace the headgasket to a metal one, when I had the motor out of the 280. Hmm..

Cam is just factory. Rotate the cams by hand and it rotate no problem. Yeah, next step is takeing the cam cover off and hopefully find the problem. I was just carious can it be the transmission being in gear? I say that, because the tranny that I have it didn't have no shifter, but before I install the transmission it spin freely.

When I install my timing belt onto the motor, it rotated fine. I took off the timing belt and thought it might be the head, but still that didnt help. I was thinking maybe their was a open valve that cause the piston to hit the valve? But, I already try rotating the cams and even align the cam to mark, and still same problem.

Yesterday, I try to crank my motor and for some reason the motor got lock after rotating 2 cycle. I then use a ratchet to rotate the pully clockwise and it  wouldn't turn, but when I rotate counterclockwise it will turn to 1 half of a cycle, and then get stuck again. So when counterclockwise is lock, clockwise rotate 1 half, then stuck again. Anyone had this happend, or might no what can be the cause of this?

No, I haven't try that yet, but hopefully that ideal will work. Thanks

My rear disc brake is giving me a bit of a headache. Im kinda regretting going through on this route. The capilers and rotor is already mounted on, and the part that confuse me is the e-brake cable. The manual say I gotta modifly my e-brake cable, and gotta use a 240z e-brake cable. I'm currently am using the original brake cable from the 260z, because I think it might be the same as the 240z, since mine 260z is the earlie type. But, to confirm I have not yet. For some reason the 260z cable is thicker then the 280zx, and it is not allowing the 260z cable into the 280zx tip. These are the tip that I am talking about.

I have a Freddy intake manifold with a prc double pass radiator, that needs a upper and lower hose. I was just wondering if any of you guys know the exact car model, so it will save me some time going through autozone radiator hoses.

June. 11-12, 2011 weekend Its been a month since I work on my car, because I had a little honda project on the side that I had to rebuild, because the guy who I bought it from basically bs me in buying his motor. Leakdown test on the motor and cylinder 2 was bad, 10,70,12,10. Soon as I found out the numbers next day, I call him and he supposedly had say he used my money on a turbo kit already and for me to wait, next couple days. While three days later he didn't even call me back or answer my phone call, so Forsure he is full of bs. Then for a long talk with my brother I decide to just rebuild the motor.  Install new piston rings, and have the machine shop do a valve job and install new valve stem seal. For the complete long block (800), parts(200) and labor(200). Now I'm just waiting on some of my other parts, so I can drop it into my civic. Will enough with that Honda scene, and let's get back to my original topic. Will just 2 days ago I finally received my freddy manifold back from powder coating, with a 5 months wait. I was surprise when I took it out from the box. But after I mounted the manifold back on my motor, it had some of my figure stain from installing the hardware back onto the manifold. Will with a soft towel and hot water to clean those stain, the clear coat and paint just came off, n left a sphere. I was pretty upset when that had happened. So basically a 5 month wait period just went down for a waste . While since manifold is now install, I decide to reinstall my q45 TB and intercooler piping. I am using red engine paint as a first coat, and second coat of the chrome on my pipes in spray cans. I just hope the chrome will hold the heat. Now I'm just waiting to buy a new idler, since mine is in a "okay" situation. I call and search many sites and no company in the united state stock them, and is all back-order. Other county has them, but they want double the price of what united state company list it for. So now I just decide to use my old one for now just for temporality, until the new one are back order then I'll  replace both the idler, tensioner and timing belt.  Everything is install, such as wiring, oil lines, and water lines. I didn't have to do much on my rb harness, because it was already wire up to my 280z last 2 years, so just gotta make a new 3 wire connection to my ignition, from the rb harness. Hopefully by tomorrow I should be able to start it up. Â

Thanks for the appreciation, and yes it's gonna be that stance look. Just can't wait tell my 2nd pair of "wats" arrive in Long beach , cailfornia.

Has anyone attempt to do a wiring tuck on there s30? I have seen some 240z, that has did it before and it look super nice and clean. Im just carious if anyone here on hybridz had attempt on doing it. How was the experience, headache or was it straight forward easy? I'm thinking about doing this on my 260z soon and would like ideas from experts. Thanks

I didn't have access or have the skill to weld stuff, so I took the rout of cutting the TB. Looks like you have more room then I have on mine. I cut a little chunk of the tb, and then grind it a bit so I will get a flat surface so my coupler will easylie side in. I use a straight reducer coupler with a 45 degree pipe. I think for you Bill, you should be able to get away with a 45 dregree silicone reducer into a straight 3 Inc pipe to the intercooler. This weekend i should be in town. So just call me if you need help.

Stock 260z manual 4 speed radiator n top hoses I got. Pm how much you wiling to pay, plus shipping? Mine is no leak, money back gaurteen. thanks

Is it brand new or used? How much you asking?

I'm hunting for a good idler for my rb25 swap. I was just carious if anyone know or have a spare rb20/25 idler pulley, that I can buy? It has to be in good shape. I try contacting nismoparts, nissanparts, eric's performance, and other site and have no luck at all. It appears to be all back order. I know that I am suppose to post this on the "parts wanted" section, but I was thinking that if I do, I wouldn't get that much reply, so I decide to put it here. Anyone?

Last week, I purchase a used autometer phantom wideband for 100. Thought it was a great deal. Will today it finally arrive.

Hey, thanks to you, I didnt end up going with a fuel cell system.

May 08, 2011       "Fuel" - Friday, my fuel parts finally arrive from jegs. I order most of the fuel parts as member 5thgenluder did on his rb25 build thread. I'll be more likely to do the same setup as him.   My fuel lines are 3/8 aluminum lines and about 20 ft. 10 ft will be going out to the engine bay, and the other 10 will be used as  returned.   I will be mounting my fuel stuff at the rear trunk inside of the spare tire location. I started to take out the spare tire from the trunk, and got surprise on how clean it is. Now Im debating if I should keep it or not, hmmm. Will I decide to not cut it like how member 5thgenluder did his. Instead, I drill some tiny holes so I can mount the surge tank and fuel pump in place. Then drill a big hole on the right side so three lines can come out their, and on the left side, I drill another big hole so 2 lines can come out their.   I then use some left over fat mat from my 510 that I used to own, and stick it around the spare tire location, for ligther noise and vibration from both fuel pump.  Instead of using fittings and braided lines as connector onto the filter, fuel pump and surge tank, I use regular 3/8 fuel lines with adjustable clamps to tighten it in place. So then I finally mounted everything in place, and this is how my fuel system setup look like from the top view.

Yeap I'll sure do it, once I received back my manifold

When you decide to take off your flares, then you should sell it to me, so I can post up my 4 16x9.5 watannabe here lol

May 3, 2011 - Today I decide to install my fiberglass bumper, airdam onto my z, so I can have more space inside my garage. But, before I can even mount these goodies onto the car, I will need to cut out a much bigger hole for my 3 inc intercooler pipe to fit the couplers.   Cut some aluminum brackets and cut the existing hole larger. Then was able to mount up my front intercooler in place.   Then install Front airdam, fiberglass front bumper, 240z grill, and msa clear bumper lens.

i have the calipers already and will be cleaning it tomorrow. Im looking towards this Saturday to mount it on the car. who did you buy those brackets from?

I found a cheap 5" autometer speedo mechanical gauge and was wondering if anyone had made it to work with with their rb25 transmission. I had seen the electrical type work, but not yet seen the mechanical on the autometer. If i do end up getting it, what speed cable and speed sensor will I need to get? I have a z31 3.7:1 LSD in my rear end btw.

04/30/2011 - I received a pair of 15mm spacer from "importsplanet" for the front 4 runner brakes to clear the Watanabe. I went with spacer because the WATS will not clear the 4 runner brakes at all. Spacer clears front toyota s12w 4-runner calipers with Watanabe mounted on, but it looks like the new rear studs are too short. So thinking if I should take the spacer to get it machine to 10mm, so I won't have to replace the stud or should I get long stud? Now off to order another pair of WATS for the rear.