voltron_boi

Yes it's been cut. 16 does suck for tire size, and hopfully we see members from here get their hands on the rota rk-r.

Finally flare mounted to my 74 260z. Heres my STANCE look Rs Watanabe 16x9.5 -19 offset on Yokohama 245/45/16

I got my rb25 running now, and when I rev and hold my gas pedal, I can see boost pressure on my gauge. But, when I drive the car and accelerate into boost it will just sputtering, and stall. Once I let go of the gas pedal, it will drive smooth again. Tomorrow, I will be switching the coil-packs and see if that is the problem. Anything else you guys would recommend me to check?

Looking for a electrical 5" speedo and 2 5/8 fuel level gauge to complete my gauge setup. Please pm if you do have these that you want to get rid of, thanks

So it won't work then? How bout this one? http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/brakes/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator-w-dual-outlet-master-cylinder

I have seen some s30 with 240sx master cylinder n booster swap, and was just wondering if chasebays eliminator brake booster would work on our z. I wouldn't want to go through the hassle of installing used parts, that is why I perferr this route if it works. http://www.chasebays.com/product/nissan-240sx/brakes/chase-bays-brake-booster-eliminator

Ill try out the below after work n see how it goes. This is what I got. 7/8, dont no if it's a regular or a 280zx.

Over the weekend I decide to mount up my front and rear calipers onto my 260z. The front are the Toyota 4x4, and the rear are the 79-80 280zx. Â First attempt was to bleed the front and it locks while stepping on the brake pedal. Then I move on to the rear and I notice it has been lock. I have a proportion valve that is also install in the brake lines for the rear. Do I need to adjust the valve, or am I missing something?Â

11/08/2011 Today decide to install my autometer phantom 5" tach. I used a 10k ohms, that can be purchase at radioshack, and the picture below is to wired up my tach and it work out perfect.   To mount the gauge in place I used the bracket that came with the Gauge and bang it nice in straight. Then I used zip-tide to hold each end of the bracket, so it won't move n place. Now I just need a electric 5" speedo and a fuel level to complete my gauge setup.Â

10-28-2011  Today i received my greddy oil catch can, when l arrive home from work. This thing looks like crap and cheap, but since its already been bought, I'll mind as put it into used. 10-29-2011   Saturday, decide to install it onto the lady. Their hose sucks and diameter size of the hose are so small, so I had to buy another hose from autozone. Bought 4 foot of  hose line.   Decide to mount the catch can on the driver side wall close to the brake master cylinder. I used one long 12mm bolt with some washer and fasten the catch can into place.   Went on and install all the fittings onto the catch can and begin to plugged my hose line. Left fitting I plugged straight to the exhaust side valve cover, and the right side fitting I plugged that into the turbo outlet pipe that goes into the MAF.   On the check-valve if that is what it's call the little breather that is on the intake side valve cover, I plugged that into the freddy manifold, with a T going into the brake booster. 11-03-2011   Finally for a long wait, I finally received my water outlet adaptor and ZT-R rb26 downpipe from mickinney Motorsport's.  The quality and weld looks good, but I didn't like how the pipe got banged. Didn't no if it was like that from mm or zt-r did that to clear his car. But overall for 150, that's a hecka of deal instead of that china made downpipe that I almost purchase.   I did a quick test fit before I left to school and it seem to bolt in if I remove the 1 stud on the dump pipe from the turbo.    So i remove the stud and it bolt in perfectly. I kno zt-r had mention that I will have to cut and reweld the pipe, but lucky I didn't have to do anything. Now just going to need to buy 2 o2 bugs and weld it onto the downpipe so I can mount my 02 sensors for correct readings.Â

10-26-2011 Today, at work while i was on my lunch break and surfing online and  came upon a greddy oil catch that I had bought for $60.00 brand new. Hopefully will received it by friday the latest. On the other hand I'm still waiting on my water outlet adapter that is coming from china, which I order last we'd, so it needs to hurry up and come so i can hook up my water temperature sending unit and gauge.    When I got home from work I decide to install the left over intercooler piping and tighten my radiator hose and get some coolant inside the cylinder, so I can start it up and let it idle for 5-10 min to see if their is any oil or water leak anywhere.    Warm up looks good, let it idel for 6 minute and their was no leak, . Now to bleed my clutch and see if it engage into gear.    Clutch engage and the car moves, . Now just gotta install my brake calipers, then add brake fluid, and bleed the brake, so I can take it for a drive around the block. But that won't happened till the next update, because I have to attend my night class. Cheers, red

If the eBay knock off needs modifracation to be done, then I'll have to pass on that and just save up into a custom build one. Beside mms who else make rb26dett downpipe for our s30? I will like a 3" downpipe all around instead of the 2.5" to 3". Thanks Ray for the info, and Datsun Dave please post picture if you can.

120-130 shipped!

I have a earlie 260z grill in good condition, like the 240z grill. I'm from calfornia and would ship if you dont mind paying for it. Pm if ur interested, thanks

Does anyone know, or have try if the downpipe from eBay will work on our s30 cars. I'm thiking about getting one as a temportay, till I can find someone to fabricate my 3" one.

10-22 to 10-23 On Saturday I begin to dissemble the timing belt, tensioner, idler and water pump off the new motor. Water pump looks good, still spin freely, and it doesn't seem to rust or anything, like my previous rb motor and the one I seen. So decide to reuse the water pump and save the old from the other motor for backup.  Install tensioner, idler from old motor to new one, and install my greddy belt that I miss place it in my storage that lucky found it last couple days going through some box. Time for a beer! After lunch, I decide to go head and install my throttle body leakage kit that came in on Friday. I went with the Lokar Inc. 48" ls1 tech throttle cable kit from summit racing, instead of using the new situp with the stock leakage like everyone else is using. I got this idea from hybridz member synthtk with rb26dett. Link below http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83248-rb-throttle-cable-bracket/page__p__794836__hl__%2B240sx+%2Bcable__fromsearch__1#entry794836 Lokar inc. Throttle cable Use drill bet 3/4 to dril a hole on the 260z gas pedal, so the throttle cable end will mount up to the pedal. Found 2 identical  washer and decide to use them for support to the the end leakage in place. Then tuck the cable around the rb motor underneath the fuel rail to throttle cable. Then I made a custom aluminum bracket from the left over aluminum that I used to make brackets for the intercooler. Use drill bit to drill the the  q45 throttle body cable locker housing bigger to accpet the Lokar ball end. Test pedal and its engaging  n disengaging perfect. Now calling it a day, Time for another beer, 10/23 Saturday night was a drunk night so woke up around 12 afternoon on Sunday to work on the car. Hook up the belt for the alternator, wire the + positive wire from the alternator to stater, started wire to + positive on battery. - negative wire from tranny housing to - side battery. Wire up auto-meter pressure gauge and install intercooler piping from the intake side. Then add some qt of oil and its ready to hear it roar. Crank it first try and it started , but is idling funny. You can hear it in the video http://i587.photobucket.com/albums/ss316/vangpheej/260z/6a2df44f.mp4 Sorry last couple 10-15 sec I notice I forgot to tighten the fuel hose into the fuel regulator and it was leaking, so had to rush to it. Glad to see it started, again and call it a day because of my soccer game at 3. I'll get a better video clip when i actually get some coolant into the motor.Â

10/20/2011 From the past few days I been using those time to assemble the turbo stuff from the old block to the new block. Will today I finally got the swap into the car. Gonna use the weekend to wire up the motor, changed water pump, reinstall timing belt and inc, then  poor some oil and crack it up. Hopefully by the end of Sunday everything will be install and ready for a test drive to the exhaust shop to get my exhaust system build. Will post video of the startup when I get to that point.

10/17/2011 Today, finally the rb25 arrived. I was pretty happy on what I received, complete longblock minus ecu and maf. It was just like the picture they had sent me. Took it to school and did a leak down test. 1,2,3,4,6 were all under 20, and for some odd reason 5 were n the 25 range. I know it's bad to have leakage 20 and up, but I decide to leave it how it is and run it like that for now. How I received from jdm engine corps.  Begin dissemble all the parts Painted the block intake side red engine paint and mounted the Freddy manifold. Now to the exhaust side with twin turbos, and oil lines reinstalling. The block had 2 broken exhaust stud when I got it. I didn't want to waste any times to take it to the machine shop and tell them to pull it out. So I decide to run as it is, aspecting that broken bolt will not cause it to leak and hopefully the remanding will have enough pressure to support it.  Â

10/11/2011 Okay, I finally received the picture of my motor today, and I just confirm to them that I want what I had seen. Overall it looks clean, better then the one at Venus that I almost bought. Supposedly motor will be going out today, so looking to received it in 5 days. Â

08/ - 10/2011 The bad and the good news!! It's been awhile since I work on my z lately. Now in days I hardly have time for it since school started last august and I been concentrating in my classes, so nothing much was done since.  The bad news is oil still leaking, leaving puddle stain the next day, after warming up the car, and I don't even have a clue where the heck it's coming from. Maybe head gasket? Oil pan? Turbo? Inc. So with all these headache and guessing, I finally came to conclusion that I decide to pull out the motor and future rebuild the block and head, .  The good news is I'm in the market of buying a rb25 longblock, to put into the car until I rebuild the old motor. Just last week I located a long block locally from Venus and they want $800.00 for it. I went and check out the long block on Tuesday and wanted to deposit half of my money, and pay the rest on Friday when I pick up the motor. I have had ask him to provide a compression test right there, and he wouldn't bother to do it, even tho i will deposit the money. He told me if I ant buying today, he isn't going to waste his time. Then I told him, I'll come on Thursday to pick up the motor and he say it's shipment day so he doesn't sell stuff on that day, and for me to come on Friday. Friday, came along and I went their with a truck and money ready to buy. While I got there he say he sold the motor on Thursday already and check back next shipment. I left and say to myself this guy Ron, he's full of bs and I am not going to buy anything from him anymore.  10/08-09/2011 So finally a 3 day weekend came along, and me and my brother decide  to pulled out the rb25 swap out of the z. 10/10/2011 Sunday night I had research and read through forums to see who members had trust in the company that are selling jdm engine. I got couple company down that night, and decide to give them a call the next day. With 5 jdm engine company to choose from, I decide to go with Jdm Engine Crop, from Texas. They charge $800.00 plus $245.00 in shipping. I paid $1045 shipped, for a complete long block with no ecu, harness, and maf.  They have 6 in stock and would provide picture of the  engine that I would be getting, before being ship out. So, for $1045, I think it's a good deal, but would like to know what you guys think?

Daz, I try my best to update but just been busy lately. Sorry

Pm me if you are interested in a set or just want to buy a pair. I can direct you to a guy that I bought mine set of 16x9.5 -19 offset. He's a honestly guy and lives in california, Los Angeles.

Mine wreak 240z

So it's okay to cut the dogleg, right? and reweld it together with a new straight frame with dog leg. I'm guessing the front suspension will need to be coming off before cutting is involve.

My friend had decide to gave up on his reck 240z, and decide to give me the car for some exchanged parts that I had. Yesterday, i went and pick up the car at his house, and drove it home with no problem. When I got home I decide to take a look at the front end damage. The passenger side was smash in and bent the radiator frame. I was surprise that the dog leg broad, if thats what its called, wasn't damaged at all.   With a long talk with my next door neighbor, we both decide that it's best to cut the smashed passenger frame out and install a new straight passenger frame from the wrecking yard.    Picture reference is from my 260z, but is using as a example  that me and the neighbor planned on cutting from the z n the wrecking yard. So my question is would it be a good idea to cut where the red dotted line are, and reweld the straight frame back into my 240z? Couple more shot of where I'm going to be cutting.Â