ISPKI

Hah, yes I am nearing the dreaded "get a new ECU" step zed. I just replaced the fusible links (what was left of them) that ran from the battery cables to the dropping resistors. Had to cut about a foot of wire off until I found some decently clean wire. Tried to start it and it fired up for about 2 seconds and then turned off. Maybe it had some fuel left over from the cold start injector. CTC: I checked injectors 1, 2, 5, 6. All had 12.0 volts on one pin and I think continuity to ground on the other. I was getting a number come up on my volt meter that hovered around .740. I am assuming that is the resistance in the circuit. I may need to ask around here and see if anyone has a functioning ECU that I can get cheap. I just do not understand how all the injectors could stop functioning all at once unless the ECU went bad. Alternatively, I do not understand how the car can turn on so long as a fuel source is provided to it if the ECU is in fact, bad. Is it possible to open the ECU and check the transistors for burning or damage?

Yes, the tach functions. I checked the resistor for it as I recall it being wrapped in electrical tape which seemed odd to me. Its connections are clean and doesn't seem damaged at all.

Checked the TPS and wiring. Opened it up to check function and it looks to be operating perfectly. Checked the wires and I had #2 and #3 switched. I cut the wires a few inches back (I also noticed that the wires are imprinted with their ECU pin# which is really cool), switched them and reconnected them. Now the vehicle passes test#2...but it still does not start and run on it's own. I am sort of running out of options. I have spark, I have fuel pressure going into the rail (holds steady at 37 PSI) but I have nothing coming out of the injectors, and no click coming from the injectors. I checked the dropping resistors and their connections and they are very clean. I checked the power relay above the ECU and it clicks when the key is turned to "on".

MMMk, brief update. The test in question (#2) refers to throttle valve switch which I read is in the TPS. I did rewire this 3 pin plug along with the other plugs in the system so maybe I wired it up wrong? I unplugged the TPS plug and re did the test just to make sure I was on the right track and I had no continuity at all regardless of the pedal being pressed or not so I know that is the item in question now. Problem is, I have no idea what to do about the wiring. The question is: if the TPS is bad or wired incorrectly, would that prevent the vehicle from firing the injectors?

Hello folks! I am so close to getting my 77 280z back on the road. Here is my current situation: I took my car off the road to diagnose an issue with it running poorly. While I was working on it, I decided to do some upgrades and replace some things. It now has a distributor from a 280zx (E12-80 module), a new coil, spark plugs, cap, rotor, spark plug wires, fuse block in place of fusible links with midi fuses, header pipes, cleaned intake manifold and replace manifold gasket, throttle body cleaned inside and out, throttle body gasket, cleaned injectors and replaced seals and bolts, new weather proof injector plugs, TB plug, AFM plug, water temp plugs, water temp sensor, thermotime switch and thermal transmitter are all new with fresh wire connectors and connections, thermostat is new, housing and gaskets are all new, new battery, new cables on just about everything, new starter. The list goes on and on. Anyways, my car will not start without spraying starter fluid in it. I have good, strong spark and the car runs with the starter fluid but it will not start/run on it's own. I tested the injectors by tapping a jumper wire from the negative post on the coil to ground with the key turned to "on". I tapped it about twenty times but could not hear a peep out of the injectors. What I am finding to be odd is that, when I first turn the key to start, it has a brief second of ignition and then looses it. I am assuming that is from the cold start injector. I went through tests 1,3,5,6,7,8,9 in the FSM and it passed all of them (continuity tests). I just did test #2 - Testing pin 3 to pin 18 while depressing throttle pedal fully. I should have continuity when the pedal is fully depressed which I do not. I DO have continuity when pedal is not depressed, but as soon as I press the pedal, I lose it. I checked EF-38 diagram and it shows that circuit runs from pin 35 to the negative battery terminal and is spliced into by #72, 49, 5, 16, 17 so I am assuming that is just a primary ground wire for the system. Is this the same 8 gauge wire that had a fusible link wired into it that connected to the "-" on the Battery? I will continue testing to try and find it. I guess I can just test for continuity between the #35 pin on the harness side and the negative battery terminal to figure it out.

Thanks for the tips so far guys. I tried your trick newzed. Stripped some jacketing off a wire, wrapped one end around the "-" on the coil, turned the key to "on", tapped the other end of the wire on one of the strut tower studs. I got nice little sparks but I could not hear a peep out of the injectors. I tapped the wire maybe a dozen times and got nothing. I did test for continuity to Pin 1 and it is there. Guess I am going back to the FSM.

McMaster is pretty well known for being more expensive than others. But, their delivery speed, reliability, quality, and accuracy of orders makes it worth it for me. I can usually get orders in 1-2 days but if you know what you need before hand, you could save alot of $ by ordering it all bulk ahead of time. I think there is a fella on Ebay who sells a big pack of SS hardware for S30s. It does not cover everything, but there are a few hundred bolts in the kit. Here is a link to the ebay store page. It isnt everything, looks like all the stuff you need for the engine. 268 pieces in total. I actually ended up buying a huge pack of 20mm M6 bolts, then I just cut them down when I need a shorter one.

Are you looking to replace the bolts with OEM bolts/washers/nuts? Is there any reason why you do not want to use stainless steel hardware for all of this. There are only a handful of bolts/nuts that cannot be SS (head studs, exhaust manifold hardware, probably suspension) pretty much anything else on the body of the car can be replaced with SS which will stay nice and shiny forever. SS bolts will be superior in every possible way to the original bolts. If you do not absolutely need the OEM hardware, boxes of SS M6 body bolts can usually be had for less than 10$ for 50 or 100 depending on length. McMaster-Carr stocks 18-8 SS M6 12mm-16mm lengths for 6$-7$ per box of 50. Washers for those bolts are under 5$ for a box of 100. So, for 18$ + shipping, you can replace pretty much every single bolt and washer on the body with high grade SS.

I am ordering some fuse holders for my 77 280z to replace the fusible links for the two small red wires coming off the battery. The fusible links are badly corroded and the plugs are damaged so I figured I would just replace them with an AGU fuse. I think the wire size is 8 gauge but I wanted to check with you guys just to make sure since my electrical system has been messed with by previous owners. I cannot find anything in the FSM regarding what size these wires should be. I was going to order a pair of AGU fuse holders and some 20 amp fuses for it but figured I would check with you guys first.

Are the injectors really that audible or do I need to put something against them to hear/feel the click?

Hello Hybridz! I have been troubleshooting my 77 280z's inability to start for some time now. It is mostly stock. I have installed a 280zx distributor with an E12-80 ICM, headers, fuse blocks etc, nothing major. I was having an issue with not getting spark out of the coil which turned out to be a broken ring terminal. I now get spark and the engine coughs for half a second like it wants to start but it doesnt. I have a fuel pressure gauge installed between the fuel filter and the fuel rail that reads a consistent 35-38psi. I got it started by spraying starter fluid into the intake but it wont run on it's own. It is acting like the injectors are not functioning so I will be reading into the test procedure on those. I will keep updating this as I test, please give me any tips or hints that may assist and thank you in advance!

Do what Domzs recommends, put the replacement filter where the factory had it. I would also recommend getting one of those small clear filters and placing it before the pump, that way, you can pick up any contaminants coming out of the tank and protect your pump. There really is no reason not to have the extra filter pre pump, they only cost a few $.

Well it failed testing per the pertronix website and the FSM. If it is still good then I have myself a spare coil just in case! I did find the issue, broken ring terminals connecting the coil to the ICM on the distributor. Cut them off and crimped on new terminals and I now get spark and some ignition! However, it seems as though there is either no fuel or very little fuel getting into the engine. I am getting about half a second of ignition when I first turn the key but then it goes away until I shut the key off. I sprayed some starter fluid into the intake while starting the car and it started right up and ran for a few seconds. I have a pressure gauge in the fuel line between the fuel filter and the start of the hard rail. The filter is reading pressure in the 35-38 range but it is behaving like the fuel is getting clogged somewhere in the rail. If there was a clog before the pressure regulator, then the pressure gauge should read whatever the pump can put out, which should be much higher than 35-38 (I thought my pump is about double that). So, it seems logical that either the injectors are not firing (which would mean the only fuel getting into the engine would be from the cold start injector - sort of makes sense) or there is a blockage somewhere else in the rail between the regulator and the injectors. Guess its back to the FSM with me.

Yeah, I kept getting stranded because mine was not putting any pressure on the fuses so most of them were sort of just flopping in the holder. The one for the alternator kept jumping the space and eventually melted together with the block D:. The blue sea blocks use 8mm stainless studs and nuts so that can never happen.

Search for blue sea systems products. They make marine fuse blocks. I have their safety hub 150 block is unbeatable as far as quality goes and it has room for 4 MIDI fuses and 6 ATO fuses. I have had several of those cheap maxi blocks fail on me and leave me stranded.

When you say circular magnet, thats the ring that the red and green wires are connected to? I have the FSM from Xenon and it is so blurry that I can barely make out what it says. SleeperZ: The leads were coming up with 0.1 ohms so even with the calibration - the coil was still failing. I picked up a new coil anyways for 25$. The pickup coil, stator, and reluctor are all dirt cheap from rockauto and they only have a couple left. I may just order them to be on the safe side. I did not get a chance to measure gaps (I dont have a caliper yet) but the stator and reluctor have rust all over them

Found a ring terminal for the "Black with white stripe" wire was broken and being held together by insulation. Soldiered on a new terminal and I now have 12V on the + post of the coil with the switch turned to "on". Still doesnt want to start though... Well, Here is where I am at the moment. I am sort of at a brick wall. I have tested everything between the battery and the ignition switch and I have power through all of it. I have power going out from the switch to the coil but I have no spark at the plugs. I think the only thing in the system left for me to test is the E12-80 ignition box. This thing was working fine when I took the car down to do the exhaust work. I have not changed anything with the distributor or matchbox but it does not seem to be functioning. Ignition module passed step 5 page EL-25 in the S130 FSM. Got 12.3v with key turned to ON although all that is really testing is that the wire from the coil to the module is in one piece... Will have to wait for another person before I can move down the list.

I installed a new coil to see if I could get spark. I received no spark. I tested the terminals on the coil with the coil installed and the key turned to "on" and got no voltage. I went back and tested at the distribution block (where the fusible links were) and I have voltage. So, I have a burned out or damaged something between the fusible links and the coil. I believe that leaves only two possible culprits? The ECU and the Ignition switch? Seems the two wires that I am interested in are the "Black with White stripe" wire that supplies power directly to the coil. and the "Blue with Red stripe" wire that...goes somewhere. I am somewhat confused with the Blue and red stripe wire as I cant seem to figure out what it's purpose is. As far as I can tell in the diagrams, that wire went to the ballast resistor and is connected to the transistor ignition unit which my vehicle no longer has. Someone stop me when I trip over myself please and thank you.

Spiff - Look up the amp rating for the wire gauge size, then get a fuse that is a little less than that (Example: a wire that carries 20 amps should have a 15 amp fuse). Tony - I purchased a Blue Sea Systems safety block 150 . It is a very high quality unit that takes 4 MIDI/AMI fuses which are perfect for handling the amps on our fusible links. It is designed for marine application so it is water proof and corrosion proof with everything being stainless steel. It also has space for low amp blade fuses. It is larger and more expensive than your usual ebay blocks though, but it can also handle alot more than cheaper blocks and it will last alot longer. I had one of those scosche audio style blocks and it survived for a few months before all the contacts wore out and would not hold the fuses any more. See This Link for the atlanticz guide on swapping your links. Their guides are top notch.

Your 77 does not have storage compartments? My 77 does... You would have to cut them open slightly to fit a battery though - I tried it and it did not fit, probably need to shave about a quarter inch all the way around.

Hello Hybridz! I was trying to get my 77 280z to start after being down for about a month. I was getting fuel but no spark (tested by removing plug and grounding it). The engine did cough once or twice as though it got a little spark in a cylinder but nothing consistent. I tested the coil by pulling the high tension wire out of the distributor and holding it close to the cap plug. I got no spark out of that either which leads me to believe that the coil is bad? This is a Pertronix Flamethrower II that I purchased new when I got the car. I tested the + and - with a multimeter for resistance (it is supposed to be 0.6ohm) and I got about 1.1-1.2. This suggests to me that the coil is somehow bad despite being fairly new. Something to keep in mind is that I have the E12-80 ignition unit and distributor installed in my car and I did have this thing running before I did the header/exhaust work on it - although it was running horribly. With the E12-80 ignition system, I removed the Ballast resistor and the transistor ignition unit but I did not replace the coil. Is it possible that the coil has been damaged by the increased voltage running through the system with the new ignition system?

Its actually very close to the floor at the current length. I had bolted the header to the engine and mounted the y pipe to test fit, then I tacked it together while it was still on the car. The pipe has about an inch of space underneath the floor and the pipe sits almost flush with the floor supports. I will post some photos of the rest of the system.

So how can the heat wrap burn through the headers? I mean, the temperature the engine produces is not even close to what you would need to do that. Although I love me some stainless and I love me some fabrication so a SS heat shield sounds like a sweet idea. Got any photos of yours? If I dont use the wrap on the header, then would it be beneficial to wrap the intake instead? I already have the wrap so I am sort of stuck with it.

I have mine setup with MSA header, about 1.5ft of 2.5" SS pipe into a Borla Pro XS, then to a 90 degree bent pipe right out the side of the car. There is about 4 ft from header to exit so it should be pretty loud. I should be able to start it up soon and I will try and post a video of it.

Well I finally got the time to finish my MSA headers. My good friend did the welds for the y-pipe and then it was up to me to strip the storage paint off, prep the surface, and coat it with something. I started off trying to sand the paint off. This proved too slow - the paint was very thick and was clogging my sandpaper. I picked up some paint stripper called citristrip that worked nicely to get the rest of the paint off. It sort of foams and wrinkles the paint, which can then be wiped away with a paper towel. I then cleaned everything off with a dizzying amount of acetone and painted it using several very light coats of Rutland's chimney paint. I was surprised at how good the paint looks. When I went to put the header back into the car, I happened to notice the PCV hose was severely deteriorated, it actually broke into pieces as I was trying to take pictures of it - I suppose that enormous hole could have something to do with the engine idling kind of poorly heh. I also included one of the hangars that i made up for holding up the 2.5" SS pipe and Borla muffler. Its a zinc plated conduit clamp with a 3/8" nut welded to the top of it and a SS threaded rod.