Oddjob

Nothing is ever really foolproof, because fools are so ingenious. -Anonymous, a corollary of Murphy's Law http://theraaymakers.net/index.php/component/content/article/50-fail/58-handyman-fails-27-pictures

You can fool some of the people all of the time, and all of the people some of the time, but you can not fool all of the people all of the time. (attributed variously to Abraham Lincoln and P.T. Barnum) Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. (Arthur C. Clarke)

Like just about everything else in life, "it depends". The actual stainless steel braid is as close to "lifetime" as you'll get. But the steel braid is not liquid-tight. The inner hose which it is protecting is actually doing the work. As long as you use the proper hangers and avoid tight spots which will abrade the line, the sheath will last the life of the car. The inner line is subject to the same wear conditions as any rubber-like product. How it will do depends on what it is made from (natural, synthetic, teflon) the environmental conditions around it (pollution, road salt, heat) and how you treat it (no tight bends, some vibration damping). Some of the manufacturers recommend renewing it every two years, but I have had it last several times that with no problems. BTW the recommendation on the Summit hose cutter is golden. Any other way of cutting that hose is a total PITA.

http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/index.php http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/AeroquipPerformanceProducts/index.htm http://www.summitracing.com/

The '71 240Z is my wife's car. She had one years ago, and absently wished she could have another one. I got her one, and have been resto-modding it ever since. Needless to say, she encourages me to work on it (cue evil laugh).

These are not a projector at all, despite the small central lens. They use a parabolic reflector, which has only one focal point, and that is where the lamp filament is (or is supposed to be). Parabolic reflectors produce a tight parallel beam pattern. In well-designed envelopes, they are paired with a spherical reflector, located in front of the lamp, on axis (this is sometimes called a "blinder"). Its actual purpose is to prevent rapidly diverging light from the filament from exiting the front lens of the lamp and spilling outside the beam pattern. Instead, this otherwise wasted light is reflected back through the lamp filament and onto the parabolic reflector, where it joins and adds to the parallel beam. When this type of envelope is used for automotive headlights, either the reflector is segmented or the front glass is lensed to produce a desirable beam pattern, eg. wider than high, with a sharp cut-off on top. This alters what would otherwise be a tight conical pattern, much as a "pencil-beam" driving lamp produces. From the picture of these lamps they use a single-segmented reflector with a clear front cover. The small lens is probably supposed to add a pencil beam to an otherwise conventional pattern. The first problem is that neither beam will be anywhere near as bright as a conventially-lensed envelope. The second problem is that the parabolic reflector cannot control the light striking the small lens well enough to avoid scatter. Add to that the diverging light direct from the lamp, and that lens is probably producing more "dazzle" than beam. A proper ellipsoidal reflector, which has two foci, can control light to make it work with a small convex lens. To bottom line it: this lamp is more of a fashion statement than a serious headlamp. You could probably make this design work, but not for $26 a pair.

In regard to the recent discussion (and so I don't have to cut-and-paste a big chunk) scroll up and re-read posts #53 and #63. To summarize: there is no best. There is an optimum solution for your particular situation, taking into account your own taste and goals. A particular lamp produces the same luminous flux no matter what it is mounted in. How much of that light output gets where you want it is determined by the optics surrounding the lamp. The assembly discussed above is not a "true" projector. A projector almost always uses an ellipsoidal reflector. That is why they are much deeper than the H4 envelope, which uses a parabolic reflector. However, both reflector types, when built well, can produce similar results in terms of optical performance. Note that a projector does use a reflector. When we are discussing optics, unfortunately, cost and high performance are directly proportional. Good optics are made with costly materials, to a high degree of precision. That invariably translates to "expensive". That should, in no way, keep you from enjoying an inexpensive find. If it works for you and isn't a menace to others, then go for it!

I used "load" in two different ways: a speaker is a load on the amplifier, and a speaker baffle can serve to load a speaker. First the speaker: the speaker's impedance tells you how much power the speaker will draw out of the amplifier. The lower the impedance, the closer it is to a short circuit (more heat), and the more power the amplifier will try to put in. The higher the impedance, the less power the amplifier will try to put in (less heat). It is sort of counter-intuitive. The actual calculations are a bit complex, but the amplifier manufacturer usually supplies the figures. Think of it this way: the connected load is drawing the power out of the amplifier, the amplifier isn't pushing it out. That's why no load produces no output. Here's a further complication: your amp is rated at 1000w @ 2 ohms. I would bet this is in bridged mode. In stereo mode, the amp could be rated at either 250w or 500w @ 4 ohms, each channel, both channels driven. It depends on the amplifier design. Best advice is to find the spec sheet. To return to the thread topic: The speaker baffle (whatever the speaker is mounted on/in), serves to acoustically load the speaker. This is a long discussion, but to simplify it for the sake of brevity, your speakers will work better mounted on a solid, airtight surface with some airspace behind.

Solid state amplifiers in general, on their output side, only care if you connect them to too low an impedance. If this amp is stable into 2 ohms, then it will produce 1000w of power into a 2 ohm load, assuming a stated input, usually -10dBV at a line level input. If you connect a 4 ohm load instead, and feed the amp the same level input, the amplifier will produce less power, theoretically 500w. An 8 ohm load will produce 250w under the same conditions. If you have no connection to the speaker terminals (an infinite impedance) the amplifier will produce 0w (and it won't hurt the amplifier). So the short answer is that the amplifier probably won't hurt your 6x9s. In fact, most speaker failures are from too small of an amplifier. The owner turns the small amp up too loud, it goes into clipping, which produces square waves into the speakers, which then overheat and fail. With a large amp, you just turn down the input (there's usually a potentiometer on the input), which reduces the sensitivity of the amplifier input, and it won't produce its full power. Because it's just idling along, it will never produce a square wave. The LPF and HPF are not crossovers, they are filters (LPF = low pass filter), and they do exactly what they sound like they would do. You would use the HPF for your 6x9s, and set the hinge point for, say, 200Hz to start. Don't use the bass boost. I'm not really familiar with your specific amp, but this looks like it from your description: http://www.millionbuy.com/phdpd395.html Bottom line, it will work fine with your 6x9s, as long as you don't get crazy and push it too hard.

I have the 6x9s in the MSA-type panel in the back. It works quite well. Here's a link to a picture (scroll down to post # 3): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147928 Some thoughts: If you object to the cost of the panel, make your own. A piece of 1/2" plywood would be fine, use the cardboard tail light cover for a pattern, cover with carpet, and you are done. Note the power amplifier in the spare tire well. This keeps speaker wires short. Running wires to the rear is quite easy, anyway. They run along the door sill under the carpet. There is only one little wire fish, over the rear tire wells, and it's easy. The spare tire well is about the only good location for a subwoofer. Plywood will make you a baffle to mount the speaker, and the airspace in the tire well will provide loading. The sub should sound fine.

No, neither would I. However, the size of the alternator is only one factor among many which will determine the voltage your load will see. An undersized alternator will allow the voltage to sag either at idle, or under heavy load. But... An incorrect pulley on a properly-sized alternator can make your idle voltage sag. A slipping fan belt will, too (personal experience). A poorly-designed (or partially damaged) regulator circuit will also do so. Poor grounds are a major culprit. Undersized primary wiring will cause voltage drop. Contact resistance is a known cause of voltage drop. Conditions in the load itself (overheated, partial short) will do it. What I am driving at is that your electrical system is just that, a complete system. Increasing your alternator size is only one part of it, and taken alone will not necessarily solve all your problems.

Exactly so. My point is that most of the alternators are priced similarly if you consider cost per amp. But if you buy one of the big ones, the overall price can be pretty steep. Unless you really have money to burn, you ought to buy one which best fits your needs, rather than the biggest one you can find. For my build, my calculation was this: with nearly everything on the car turned on (including all my upgrades), the car will draw about 46A. The 105A alternator will produce 50+A at idle, and 105A at 2000 rpm. There is plenty of reserve capacity, and in the real world, the car would never see 46A anyway. It is certain there are those builders who will need one of the bigger units because they have bigger, more power-hungry accessories. They should select one which meets their needs. But I would suggest that over-specifying a big alternator is counter-productive. You will probably never use the reserve capacity, but you will still be paying the weight penalty for the bigger unit.

I am using the Z Specialties 105A alternator, and (so far) it has been fine. I suspect your "serious load" may be what killed yours. I have gone to pains to re-engineer the Z wiring and grounds, and budget the loads carefully. That, together with matching my alternator selection to my needs (modest, compared to most, I suspect) may explain its reliability. Aside from the convenience of bolt-in, and matching your own needs, it really comes down to this: 40A stock doesn't work 105A Z Specialties $210 or $2.00 per amp 140A AC Delco CS-144 $300 or $2.14 per amp 180A Iraggi $400 or $2.22 per amp 200A Iraggi $420 or $2.10 per amp

With the grounding well in hand, it is now time to start working on the positive part of the circuit. On the 1971 Z, it really is necessary to sort out the grounding first, as it creates more problems than the B+ side of the circuit. That is not to say that there are not significant problems with the B+, which need to be rectified. This first post on this topic covers the basic redesign of the high-amperage portion of the system. The design goals are extreme reliability, high performance, and very low maintenance. The PDF file below is a single-line schematic of this portion of the circuit. The first thumbnail below shows the parts for the project. The second shows the completed subassembly. The main battery cable is being sized up to 1/0. The StreetWires fused distribution block eliminates the Z’s stock fusible link(s). The internally-regulated high-output alternator is connected via a 4 AWG cable and a 125A fuse. The other 4 AWG cable goes to a Flaming River battery switch, through a 100A fuse. This side of the circuit will feed everything on the car excepting the starter and alternator. The switch is not shown because it is already mounted on the car. Thumbnail 3 shows the B+ buss mounted on the car and connected. Sources for the components are as follows: Custom battery cables: http://www.kayjayco.com/index.htm StreetWires components: http://www.crutchfield.com/brands/StreetWires/ Flaming River switch: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLA-FR1002/ B+ Main Buss.pdf

The brass hardware on the buss bar is doing much better than the steel hardware did in resisting corrosion. However, it turns out that I could only find brass in sizes up to ¼â€. The larger terminals on the buss are 5/16†hardware, so I used silicon bronze hardware, which is available. Bronze, usually being an alloy of copper and tin (copper and silicon in this case) is an excellent electrical conductor, and is mostly very resistant to corrosion. Silicon bronze hardware is often used in marine electrical applications. The thumbnail below shows the star ground buss with its bronze and brass hardware, new mounting hardware, and, at long last, the 1/0 battery cables I had originally specified. These were custom made. Also attached below is a schematic drawing (.pdf) of the star ground buss as it is currently configured. It has evolved somewhat since the original post # 15, above. You are welcome to make use of the design for your own purposes, with the following limitations: if you post it elsewhere, please cite the source. Please remember this design is specifically for a normally-aspirated car, with an internally-regulated high output alternator. Star Ground.pdf

As far as I know, this is true. However, do not assume you have to have a projector setup to have HID. There are a number of HID conversions for the H4 envelope. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=154268 There are also quite a number of technical tricks (relays first among them) which will get you more light from incandescent/tungsten-halogen/xenon light sources, mostly by reducing voltage drop to the bulbs. This is true, but enforcement varies widely from place-to-place. Unless you are really stupid about it, you probably won't have a problem with it. If you are worried about it, there are quite a number of other light source options, some legal, some not. You can also increase light output by using better optics. The H4 envelope which fits the Z varies greatly in quality. The better designed and built envelopes do put more light on the road. Some folks like the Euro-spec envelopes better than the DOT, but note that this, too, is technically illegal. http://www.rallylights.com/hella/HeadlampsMain.aspx Note that the bulbs you have discussed above (eg. 6012) are sealed beams (the envelope and bulb are one inseperable unit), where the H4 is an envelope only, with a replacable bulb. The optics in just about any H4 will be superior to a sealed beam, and will produce more light.

Even though I haven't posted in a month, work has been continuing. Much of it has been preparation for bigger jobs. The B+ power buss is nearly ready for construction. This will be a multi-part post when it's ready. I have also been working on recalibrating the fuel gauge (this one contains surprises), which I will post when I finally get it right. The main progress has been in the area of making the cabin habitable. Rose's Z suffers from the usual exhaust fumes inside. I have looked at the considerable number of posts on the subject here on Hybrid Z. My conclusion from reading them is that there is no "silver bullet" fix. Rather, the ultimate fix is just a methodical sealing job on anything which will allow air infiltration from the rear. To that end, so far we have: *replaced the windshield, its weatherstrip, and the chrome surround *replaced the inner & outer weatherstrip on the quarter windows, and installed new stainless hardware *replaced the rear hatch glass weatherstrip and its chrome surround *replaced the inner & outer weatherstrip on the rear hatch *replaced the taillight boots The difference is already day and night. Where before there was a very distinct odor which would give you a headache in a half hour, now the odor is hard to detect. This project will continue.

Yikes! Don't touch that little shield, at least not yet. Take a close look at the one that came with the H4 envelope. Is the side that faces the bulb specular (mirror-like)? Does it look like a section of a perfect sphere? If yes to both, it is an axial reflector. It's designed to do two things: 1) work as a blinder, keeping light which would spread widely out the front lens from causing scatter, and 2) reflect the direct light output of the lamp back through the arc and onto the reflector, where it will contribute to your overall useful light output. It is located precisely for the focal point of the lamp, and can't be moved. On the other hand, the shield on the lamp is just a blinder, and any light output which hits it is just wasted as heat. It is put there because the lamp manufacturer doesn't know whether your envelope has a proper axial reflector. Your best bet is to use a lamp without the shield. Most of those lamp shields are a ceramic dip applied to the outside of the bulb. That is something I would say to remove, but I have no idea how you might do it.

Thanks. Here's a bit more information: The three gauges in the dash cluster are 2 5/8", which fit perfectly. They are also analog, and read even with the car shut off. The two in the A-pillar pod are 2 1/8", and the pod itself is the Miata pod identified as the best fit elsewhere on Hybrid Z. These two gauges are electrical. I used Sport -Comp because they matched the stock tach and speedo, because this line is available in both sizes, and because this line comes in both analog and electrical.

You are correct. I was trying to keep it simple. Probably 80% of the electro-mechanical relays you run into will not have a snubber. Another 10% will have a fixed resistor to bleed off the worst of the reverse EMF spike, and only 10% will have a snubber diode to completely block the spike. Only the 10% with the diode are polarity sensitive. The relays on my own project Z's lighting do have snubbers, but I'm well-known for overbuilding everything....

After thinking about it overnight, I think you may well solve this by adding another relay or two, on the signal/power side of the ballast/relays. This might not be for the reason you were considering. You would use the additional relay(s) to reverse the polarity to the signal line on your ballast. Here's why: Solid state relays tend to come in two general flavors, three pinouts and four pinouts. I'm speculating you have threes, wherein one connection to the "coil" and one to the load are in common, and therefore the same polarity. The HID designers probably designed this circuit for the most common situation, which is switched positive on this pin. Trouble is, the Z is switched negative. If this is the problem, you probably can't fix it any other way than to reverse the polarity on this pin using a relay ahead of the input to this third pin. Four pin relays are usually used in controlling high voltage AC with low voltage, so you probably don't have those.

Well, if they are solid state, and one side of the relay "coil" is internally wired, that would explain all of your symptoms. The easiest fix would be to bring both sides of the relay "coil" out so you can make your own connections with the correct polarity. The trouble with that route is it will almost certainly void your warranty.

If the relays are electro-mechanical, it wouldn't matter. If they are solid state, they will object strongly. Any idea which you have? (Electro-mechanical will make a sound when energized, solid state won't.)

My build is a daily driver, and will probably never see a track. I kept the speedo and tach, replaced the three dash guages with Sport Comp, and placed two more in an A-pillar pod. Pictures here (scroll down to post #2): http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=147928

If you like the output of your present envelopes, then go for it. If Vvme will take the conversions back, the trial costs you nothing. The output pattern of your envelope will not change based on a change of light source, as long as the new source is well made, ie, the arc is exactly at the focal point of the reflector. If the pattern changes for the worse, or scatter increases significantly, send them back!