Tony D

You would be amazed what you see. Even at idle it reveals which lobes aren't slinging oil pretty vividly. On spraybars it works better as you can visually watch the streams as the rpms rise and the thing 'burps out'!

I don't recommend doing that, it just gets you upset. Been getting flack for my expense reports...time cards... blah blah blah... I poked around amazed at finding everybody else's. Great Security there... Things I was told were 'unacceptable' were found routinely on everybody else's submissions. Grrrrr.... All this because after the third phone call after I'd gone asleep, and not wanting to deal with a secretary with an attitude.... I hung up on her. Since then, talk about "bitch magnus"! How DARE I hang up on her! She is a PROFESSIONAL, don't you know (and has mentioned it on several occasions since...) Oh brother... The job is fine. But man, this kind of shite just wears you down. And poking around the server confirmed things I never wanted confirmed as it just pisses me off more!

If possible having straight hose into and out of the pump with gradual transitions is better than any sort of hard bend fitting. A 45 is a better choice if you can swing it. a straight run in and out of around 4.5" (or 12 tube diameters) is the standard for 'straight laminar flow' in piping systems.

And what.... you guys don't have that Polycarbonate Valve Cover for checking this sort of thing without making a mess???

wouldn't have been so bad if I'd typed "cylinder's lobes" instead of freaking just "lobes"... "Do not post while drinking, you think you said things you really didn't. Or vice versa!" Too bad about trashing your cam. Bummer. Got tight clearances on the bottom end? Did you use RTV anywhere near the oil system so a gob could have broken free and plugged something? I watched a guy tear down a P90 Mechanical Head that WRECKED... I mean NOTHING looked like it got lube. He'd put red RTV on EVERYTHING including the head gasket "to make sure nothing leaked" and had COMPLETELY PLUGGED the orifices feeding the top end of the engine. Decided since he hadn't completed paying for the head, that he wasn't going to "since it was trashed and that the seller could take it back". Dude, NOT COOL! Somewhere around that time, I stopped selling parts to Z-People...

"They are in, Disguise!" Paraphrasing The Kergan

Cowl Area is high pressure, not low pressure. Now, using stovepipes through the interior and out where the plate used to go....

I loved the 84 Chevette Diesel.... though truth be told and Isuzu I-Mark Diesel had the EXACT engine and transmission and got 10mpg more. Constantly source of irritation to my UAW-Employed Father-in-Law at the time that 'Bought American" thinking Chevette was GM.... Only to find an Isuzu Engine under the hood (just like all those untouched Chevy LUVs on one side of the street... American, not Jap POS like those I-Su-ZOO Pups with the winders shot out 'cross the street every Memorial Day...) It annoyed him to find out the I-Mark got 50+ when he could only get mid 40's at best. Musta-been the Chevvette Reargear huh? Then again, you can always get that Diesel Chevette, then swap in a Chevy S10 2.8 V6.... mmmmm! Illegal.... gaaaarrrrgh! I was driving down Rte 58 near Kuwae Hospital on Okinawa one day, and in the oncoming lane came a Chevette driven by a Japanese guy.... To be honest, I blurted out "WHY?" With the selection of comparable vehicles in Japan........I could not reconcile buying a Chevette 1600 with the alternatives being cheaper, more reliable, and having more power.

I bought a Fairlady Z in 1991. I bought the matching LHD Version three years later. Somehow, since then, I've accumulated 32 more in the yard and have four or five that rotate insurance and driving duties. And they sit in storage till I have time to attend to them properly. Money? How much have I spent? Not counting 5 years of hoarding in Japan that cost me $1 a pound to ship to SoCal in 1989? Oh, I don't even want to think about that. "A couple of Bucks, and then some!" Closest I want to quantify it.

"I can eat 50 eggs" Nobody can eat 50 eggs...

I remember helping construct some Honda CVCC Powered Pushers back in the mid 70's that used (get this) 1974 Chevrolet Impala Harrison Air Conditioning Evaporators in the wings as radiators! I was in the 7th grade, and the way it was explained was the speed vs the density of the exchanger allows the evaporators to cool the engine just fine at speed. the holes in the wings were DINKY compared to the size of the cores, and of course a duct opened up to let the air through the core. Same as your 'what happens after the air dam' comment. Small opening to control inlet air, and get efficient flow through the exchanger, then blocking the rest as best you can. I always wanted to use smaller, thicker radiator on a Bonneville Car with minimal opening but Class Rules make it prohibitive. And for a street car, unless you are making a Vegas Runner dedicated to live about 80mph all the time.... I doubt it would be practical on a street car. Though we can dream, right?

I will attest to the veracity of what it takes to get to the 7500 post limit title... Whores give it away, that is why people say "show me the whores"... Prostitutes now...THEY get paid.

NONE of those thoughts occurred BEFORE I left the bridge. Curiously they ALL came to me on the trip down. I refer to it as the 'clarifying power of gravaity!"

"Joshua.... what type of dumb ass are you? Does that even sound like a good idea, popping a primer inside the shop?" LOL Case 1: Kevin Keskimaki, Pecker Pete Petersen, Bob Hemmila and I are on a pipe bridge over the Escanaba River. Below, large rapids roiling. We are discussing the merits of using the bridge as a "jumping off point" but being that it's 25-30 feet high at least...most are hesitant. Someone mentions a cat. Machismo takes over and everybody is calling everybody else a cat. Yours truly hops over the edge to the 'harmless water below' following teenage logic voicing a large "Y'ALL CATS!" exclamation punctuating the jump. Three guys start screaming. I have time to look down. I have time to look down and think "why haven't I hit the water yet?" I look down and think, "I don't even know how deep this water is, there could be a big ROCK making that upswell below me." Then I think "why am I only halfway down?" THEN it hits me "This is probably going to hurt!" I grip my innertube under my arms with all my might and cross my legs like all those old Navy Training Films tell you to do. I realize the big brass nozzle is right next to my face and I lean back slightly just as I hit the water. Instantly I pass THROUGH the innertube. My arms were straight up. Yeah, that worked...NOT! I think "wow, this is deep!" as I look up, and see the profile of the innertube quickly moving on an "X" vector, while I'm going on "Negative Y"... And then I hit the bottom, and my legs buckle, and my ankle gets cut open on jaggy rocks.... It is at this point that I realize exhaling and yelling exhortations in an extended manner probably wasn't brilliant. And now I try this futile 'swim downstream to catch up with your innertube' and pop up as my innertube is about 50 yards downstream... Kevin is on the south bank screaming and asking if I'm OK, Pecker Pete is jumping in from the north bank to come out and get me... and Bob is on the bridge shaking his head saying something about being a retarded idiot. Which, at this point...I tended to agree with him. Ahhh, but forever the glory of the day, and having three witnesses to proclaim my manliness at school the next year. This same group was involved with the "Box of M16 Blanks and a BB Gun" incident. You know, just because they are called "Blanks"...doesn't mean there isn't anything in them that won't break the skin, penetrate, or fester...

At Bonneville we call that 'the snowplow'! The big opening effectively lets the air the spoiler up front dams up go straight into the hood, and then pressurize the underhood and lift the car up (adds to understeer.) It may work better with about a 4" slot and the entire front covered with the 4" slot properly ducted to the radiator... The key is getting air out from under the hood once it's in there. One way is to limit the amount entering, another is to duct the underhood area to low pressure to let that air out. It's in the aero testing about taping up the front end. Actually, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112012-looking-for-a-few-good-candidates-and-their-money/page-2 Go to post 35 about the comments, it's encapsulated there pretty well, and references the test runs in the original aero data tests so you can refer to it.

Anybody with an angle-tilting drill press could do it! Buy a proper sized reamer, and you could probably do it with your hand drill and a new sharp bit (I did!) Mine were resized for a different type of pintile (not 14mm) but the process is the same: Dril 0,5mm undersize, and then ream to final dimension. There are brave souls who will just sink the drill bit at 14mm and say with a sharp bit the wall finish will be good enough, and the O-Ring can take up any irregularities---and they are probably right. But I felt more comfortable drilling slightly undersize and taking the last 0.020" to final size with a hand reamer. It's not difficult to DIY if you have access to a drill press or hand drill and a sharp bit and good reamer.

Actually, an 84 Chevette Diesel is not required to pass any Smog Checks! Now, an 84 Fiero....2M4....yeah! Thanks for the update. Let us know what you find!

"I read its ok seen both ways done with or with out plugs for compression tests" From a CREDITABLE source? Or just someone on the Internet? Since doing compression tests starting some time around 1978 I have NEVER seen a directive to leave the plugs IN the engine while cranking a petrol engine. Can you site the location where you read that, and in what context? Having paid my good money to go to several schools (GM Tech School, Motech in Detroit, USAF GP Mechanic School, USAF AGE, and so on) I have never had a gasoline engine test specification that called for plugs to be IN the engine when cranking for compression. Universally, they are ALL removed and compression is taken on one cylinder at a time to maximise cranking speed to optimum. I have to agree with Leon's first answer: "NO" your engine is fine. Not even close to a rebuild time.

Your friend is misleading you somewhat on the mechanics of how it might be running rich, but if it's caked up with gunk, indeed it will not allow the proper flow of air to the engine for the calibrated throttle position and flow through the AFM and THAT will make it run rich. There gets to be a point (Hot Idle) that the AFM Flapper is near CLOSED, and the air bypasses around the AFM---this should be close to the requirement of the engine at hot idle. That valve, screwed all the way out...should allow a speed of 2,500. I'd get some throttle body cleaner, and start there with your idle speed problem before chasing electrical stuff any further! Clean the T/B good as well, it can get gunked up and cause problems as well. Then get a vacuum gauge on that manifold and see where your hot vacuum is at proper curb idle. Incidentally, if someone has played with the AFM bypass and the rpms slow enough....the switch can open, killing the fuel pump and stalling the engine. When in doubt "IDLE UP" until you get it all figured out and adjusted properly. I have seen cars with 8" Hg vacuum and bad timing from a slipped balancer pulley that wouldn't run at all. Bought for a song and within an hour under a tarp in Orange adjusting the valves, timing and other basic items from the FSE Engine tune up, the car was strongly running and drove to Phoenix that evening. People just let the basics go because the rest of the stuff compensates so well. The old systems default RICH, and that always aids drivability, meaning people don't perceive a problem until it's WAY down the road to being out of proper adjustment. It's why the OBD Systems these days throw codes. They run so well, you will never know when something goes 'bad' unless you have sophisticated instrumentation and know to look for it!

GRP?

REAR TWO CAMSHAFT LOBES RUNNING DRY! That is your 'squeaker'---get it resolved, make SURE you are getting oil spray out the lobes or spraybar or within 500 miles you will be doing it anyway when you replace the cam! Usually inaudible at higher rpms, but returns intermittently at Idle. Sometimes it squeaks, sometimes not as there is oil splashed from adjacent lobes (especially at higher rpms) but they're not getting proper lube and it will take it's toll... Even with stock cam and springs. With a hot cam and heavy springs it will go away quicker!

FYI: some of the first B&G Circuitboard MS1 Group Buy people were VW Bus owners in Long Beach that had TERRIBLE smog issues. The VW AFC and Prior systems are known for glitchy AFM's and sensor issues combining to go pig rich and fail smog in a GP way. Their short exhaust systems don't help things at all. These guys ecstatically praised how their Busses passed with flying colors once converted to MS in a "Stealth" conversion retaining the look of the stock system.Seems that tweaking the resistive curve of he respective sensors to compensate for that deep harness corrosion had a great deal to do with having to not replace a $1,500 harness on a $700 Bus...meaning you could make the next Dead Tribute Concert on schedule and sell your blotter unimpeded by The Man and His Regulations... A single configured GPO will handle your EGR just fine, same as the Nissan setup. They have been smogging in such a configuration since 2000... Or so I hear. I wouldn't know firsthand. Converting it to MS is Illegal. I only hear of this. I have no firsthand knowledge, nor would I participate, in an illegal activity such as converting vehicles to MS In a Stealth Conversion to keep older classic vehicles clean, running, and on the road. I agree with out Governmental Overlords that any vehicle over 10 years old should be banned from entry to the L.A. Basin, and any uncatalyzed vehicle should be confiscated and crushed in the pursuit of "cleaner air for the children and Mother Earth."

Show it to me in Datsun Manuals.... Local slang just misleads people. As an OEM Engineer going to do field training for distributor ship mechanics, the single biggest hurdle is getting field people to refer to things properly so when they call in or technical support everybody is on the same page! What people call it at the distributor in Alabama usually is different than what they called it in Detroit, and different again from what it was in SoCal, or Japan at the Yokohama HQ. I didn't know what a "TRIG Box" was, just more background slang. "TRIG" is written on components as short for "Trigger" meaning the reluctor or ignition Trigger Module in or near the distributor. Not the Transistor Ignition Unit in he right kick panel area! What I don't see is anything other than a passing reference to "warm idle".... Cold it's 1200, it drops to ???, and when you hear a click it drops to 500 or stalls/dies. The obvious thing of the AC drawing it down, or a swap from the BCDD is covered. But what is "Hot Idle"? If its set too low...it stalls under load, under load from the alternator in some cases. Instead of going for the complex: check the basics first. This may be nothing more than a maladjusted hot curb idle...which has degraded over time from not adjusting the valves losing manifold vacuum...driving up idle fuel pressure... Simple things, usually overlooked in a rush to blame electronics which, generally, are rock-solid for decades. What is curb hot idle? What idle vacuum? Before jumping to the third page of the troubleshooting chart, MAKE SURE Page 1 is all correct, FIRST!

Getting the big parts in is the easy part. I usually show up to buy the lot of it about four wires and one frustrating evening away from completion...

Yes, when we got the second saw, I watched "Kirk" start the saw, and "SET" the anti-kickback. Ran out and said "what the hell are you doing?" Idiots come in all sizes. It would have been better had he lost his testicles in that Quad Accident...