Tony D

No new pistons until the engine is tuned to 7,000 rpms under boost first! Ask JeffP...

Tuning acceleration has always been the easiest part. Start rich, work lean, disable all fuelling tweaks and warmup enrichments and work on a warmed up engine first to get a good map. Auto tune does not work unless you are already close, but never depend on it to do the work you should be doing. Hold load points, lean till you buck, go back rich five clicks and move to the next load cell. You should be able to get close ping that with a long gradual hill and no other instrumentation. If you are belching fire out to ITB's consider you have too much spark advance and are early-firing the next cylinder in the firing order, or previous one! Or are lean. Leading us back to richer it up, go from rich to lean... This isn't endemic to MS, it's the same for all EMS

Heh heh heh, "Dodge Style"! Like gluing hall magnets in the flywheel... Remember guys, "the bigger the disc, the better the resolution"! Higher you go in rpms, big discs pay dividends. It's nice to have a big disc. Sometimes at higher rpms a smaller disc just won't do (TEC2, for instance.) Disc reduction is an abomination!

And one final thing... NOWHERE do I see Wantanabe-San QUOTED as saying ROCKY AUTO built it... There's a bunch of Internet journalist blather making trite filler... But no quotes from Wantanabe-San. Be wary where you place the blame here, gents! I also see the HBZ Ad for $47,000 and the Rocky Auto price of $100,000.... Not "three times the price", unless of course the original asking price of $47k was somehow inflated, and he was talked down... Actually, the way I read that original HBZ Advert, asking $47K with FAR MORE SPENT... Making Rocky Auto's asking price a reasonable markup if all is to be believed. What is the REAL motivation for this post? That Japanese buyers appreciate a good build and will spend money to support the people doing the build? It does have shipping costs, importation costs, Shaken-Sho (I don't one how...) and flooring/inventory costs making the price even less of a margin. If they did indeed buy it for $33K, then it's a decent margin to floor inventory the car until it sells... But really, WTF? Is somebody pissed they didn't get.$100K out of the car in the USA? Got news: chances are you won't! If you think it's possible, hold on out till you get your price. It's that simple. But be prepared to,wait a long long time!

They have a full restoration and repair facility, as well as an extensive stock of "donor" cars from prospects can choose. If I had the inclination, I'd post photos, but the ridiculous inferences at the beginning of this thread just astound me that building a car and then selling it somehow entitles someone to lifetime plaudits...holy CRAP! Reselling a car or acting as a broker is one thing. But flying off the handle with the accusations made here without knowing the requirements of business that dictate THEY TAKE 100% OWNERSHIP OF ALL FACETS OF THE CAR AS IF THEY BUILT IT THEMSELVES... I don't know about anybody else, but if I'm going to get 100% of the shite for the breakdowns, I'm taking 100% of the praise for the build as well. As I stated above, if someone wants the credit, sell it from YOUR shop in Japan, and SUPPORT IT! Some of you guys need to watch Corvette Summer again...

How many of you have been to the shop, before spouting slander? Is this sour grapes because a shop is acting as an auto broker, or simply sheer unbridled ignorance at the cultural requirement that a selling shop fully stand behind their product? If someone here sold the car, they SOLD it. If THEY want to bitch about someone "claiming to build it" perhaps THEY should set up shop in Japan and be prepared to SERVICE the car THEY sold when the owner wants it serviced! This is another "lost in translation" non-starter by people who have no clue of the culture, or the climate in which these vehicles are resold. The average client at Rocky Auto drives a Porsche, or a Bentley, and wants he car of their youth they never could afford to buy or build then. They don't give a rat's ass who did the wrenching. What they DO care about is that the selling broker or agent stand behind their sale 1000% with service. Free, in most cases in the case of component failure... YOU gonna do that FOREVER? That is what they are selling. The IRON they move, and the source of it is SECONDARY, if that. Plenty of people build cars. Who you going to get that will stand behind it for the next 20years? THAT is what Rocky Auto is selling. NOT the car. The car is nothing. The SERVICE is EVERYTHING! "It's a Japanese thing." FYI: Rocky Auto is 15 minutes from one of my customers in Japan. A customer who expects ME on a plane hen an ALARM comes up on their machine. Maybe there's a reason he distributor likes me, and refuses to have any other rep into the country... Maybe because "I understand"? Sadly, my management doesn't, and apparently most here don't either. Our machinery had to be relabelled with the local distributors name...even though they assemble NOTHING on he machine. They get it from us at a discount, and resell it as THEIR machine in Japan. HELLLLLLLOOOOOOO??? Is THS what you guys are pissing and moaning about? Rocky Auto SOLD it, and in everybody's eyes in Japan, Rocky Auto is RESPONSIBLE FOR IT! It's a ROCKY AUTO CAR the moment it's sold in Japan. Where it was assembled makes not one WHIT of a Shite! (Anybody explain how every Isuzu P'up has the windows shot out on the Detroit Dealership lot, but the Chevy LUV's across the street remained untouched? "Them's is Chevys! Uh huh!" -- Built by Isuzu...badged as Chevy, but but but... Goose-Gander ???) Welcome to sales in Japan, boys. Grow up and smell the coffee. It's been this way longer than the US of A has been a nation, and it's not changing anytime soon. YOU sell it, it's YOUR product. YOU are expected to stand behind it. That's the way it was, is, and ever shall be there.

Do you have the THICK SU-to-Manifold spacers, or the THIN ones (1/2" difference there) Maybe mill .250 off the mounting flange at the head, and another .250" off at the SU Mounting side, along with the thn spacers, and you got your inch... No welding or cutting f manifold runners needed. Ah....haaaaaaa!

"A stout 3.1 should see 250+rwhp." I would go a bit further than that, but that's just me.

It's not "invested", it's "spent"... A car is a hole in the air, suspended there by four rubber doughnuts which you can not eat. Into this hole, you throw money, which you will never see again.

For the unrepentantly cheap, an old Mercedes 280 can will look similar if you tart it up with some ricer tips...

Bolt-on...

Wow, epic fail comment there..."RIF"! LOL Going to the bank for the stack 'o hundreds today... Scheduling the trailer...now gotta pick up a 63 bluebird the same day as The SC-Z... I'm thinking the photos will be Thursday as a result! Few newer SC setups on display at MSA yesterday...Stillen makes a nice bracket as compound speed increased / jack shaft to keep actual drive belt to the centrifugal unit shorter than I would ever have imagined! Plus some nice silicone adapters to house the blowoff valve and SC Inlet duct connection.

Greddy-Trust Japan makes 432 replica exhausts for L-engined Z-cars

I set up a buying appointment to add another 240Z to my corral! Muahahaha!

I was slightly disappointed by the feature in that the costs were not revealed for the cars. Not to show off what someone spent, but to give people a REAL WORLD comparison. There is more to performance than just "performance'! That a 40year old car held SO CLOSE to a MODIFIED newer model is absolutely astounding. My guess is that the RB car was cost-comparable to the new 370, before modifications. And THAT would have been an interesting comparo to see! That modified 370 is buckets of money more... I just wanted to see a cost per performance point... Or performance point gained. I'm duly impressed by the RB Z, duly impressed, indeed!

Party?

Interesting...what brand is your muffler? I find that marking very interesting... Thanks for the clarification. Oh, and that photo of the Novi-Supercharged 240Z I showed in Post #71? I go to meet the owner and hammer out transfer details within the next 48-96 hours. Hope to have it in the yard before MSA... Don't know if it will drive to the event... But it should soon be MINE! Jump the flight from Bangkok in 11 hours, pick up Frank280ZX at LAX, go buy a Mercedes 380SEL, head to the house...pick up a 95 LT1, T56 Firebird Trans Am the next morning, and hopefully get the 240 that afternoon. Bank Transfer Funds Willing! And then get the Turd running for MSA... Or the SC-Z! God Smiling...Both!

Huh..huh huh huh, ha, ha haw haw haw haw! 9,500 rpms + standard balancing for that speed. Nissan Rods... You can do what you want for incrementals, no LSR Z I know has a knife-edged crank in their L-Series. So now the harmonic is 7,300? Or was it 7,500?

Cheaper stamping on the later one, simple round die. Weight reduction on earlier one for "sports", not needed on later "GT" N42 and earlier are all the same big hole. Should have been clearer I guess.

Removing a bypass valve is not a good idea, as dirty oil is better than no oil... Or a collapsed filter element sending cellulose fibres all directly into your bearings!

The flaking paint, like leaves in a pool collects on the strainer screen, reducing flow and therefore pressure. Since it obstructs the screen, it doesn't fall off until you shut the car off and stop the pump. It then falls to the bottom of the pan where idle pump suction does not disturb it. When you rev it, and slosh the oil around, it gets floaty again, and sucks to the screen. Causing the problem again. Clean the pan, and try it again. The Schmutz should not be an issue downstream...it would be macerated in the pump... That's my theory...I'm stickin to it!

I'm confused on the "forward" and "backwards" definitions you give for the glass pack. My units show "flow direction" as the openings (louvres) facing the engine. I would define that as "forward" and it cuts sound quite effectively with slightly higher restriction. When reversing the direction (opposite OEM Stated Flow Direction) the resistance is likely lower, with sound out the pipe in back louder, but resonant "snarl" decreased on decel. Drone seemed cut with both orientations, and WOT noise reduction was not my concern with installing it, but removing the "snarl popping" on decel and less backpressure was a nice addition, so figuring that, I've always specified "reversed" ... Your testing as stated seems to be diametrically opposite in the end as your "forward" seens equivalent to my "reverse"--was the glass pack marked as to flow direction? Reverse wasn't referring to baffle cuts per se, but to stated flow direction (which has always had the scoops facing the engine in "proper installation" orientation.) I got a blower that can do that to a 14# undrilled bowling ball. Look up "Atlas Copco ZA-8"! Had three in LA at a pharma company for growing cultures on antibiotics (sparger tubes)---replaced two Roots units at Navajo Refining in New Mexico...customer said "so when will we start 'em?" Start em? They're running NOW, and been fully loaded for a day now! They could not believe how much quieter the Lysholm Screws were compared to those old Roots Blowers!

The flow numbers out of Rebello are quite good. And the cost for sending in a head for porting only are considerably lower than the complete head...

Cheaper, weighs less.

Generally the. Leading edge meeting windage is also tapered to lessen losses.