Tony D

Unless you have a hole below the separator/deaeration baffle, you won't snake a borescopedown the oil pickup tube AND turn it to see the screen!

Cool Beans! "Klog" got a bunch of my tools over the years as well. Usually at Union worksites where I now make clear these are MY tools, and not "company tools" which Ford employees feel entitled to cob at their discretion. Piece of advice: if they ask "are those your tools, or company tools" GUARD THEM WELL AND TAKE 'EM HOME NIGHTLY!!!

Read what I effing wrote, and I AM sorry I mentioned it as reading something as clearly stated as " they're all Bosch-Licensed and as long as you know the pinouts and make the appropriate adjustments in wiring, "parts is parts".... This is 70's Tech..." Leads to horse beating. There IS NO BUDGET. MS was stated as TOO EXPENSIVE. Lets stick with what the OP gave us, and not indulge in idle fantasy and horse beating. Like I said, I'm sorry I mentioned it. It takes something not in the equation: basic knowledge of how an engine functions. Again, I reiterate: "Stick to plug wires and tune up, these skills will apply to everything. You can't fly till you learn to walk, and you can't walk till you learn to crawl. And this situation here is just now getting the attraction to the checkerboard horse on the playmobil just out of reach to coax that first rollover..."

"something blocking the screen" That is a real possibility! Dropping the pan is a cinch in-car. My preferred method is to remove the motor mount bolts on the isolators (2 each side) the jack up the engine till it's touching the top of the tunnel or near it (watch your heater hoses), and put blocks of 2x4 under them to let it rest on... Drop it on the blocks, and take the pan off, remove to rear of car and down. Shouldn't have to rotate the crank to clear throws this way, but you might... It's not a big deal. I put studs into my block while it was off (four of them extended length to hold gasket and make pan line up easier) and replaced those damnable small heads with nice flanged-headed nuts, clamping a sandwich plate (like the back of the pans have from Nissan...) After doing that, leaks are not an issue, and that full-perimeter doubler makes for straight pan rais and nuts which don't come loose! I took mine off because the car slipped off the jack, and it dented the front portion of the pan enough that when I restarted it, you got that hollow "tok tok tok tok" and could feel the crank throw banging the damn thing! Drop it, undented it...then spent an hour making studs and then saying "that doubler would probably work..." So made it from strap I bought from Home Depot, then REmaking LONGER studs to accommodate the doubler... By 23:00 it was purring nicely and hasn't leaked a bit since!

It ain't all it's cracked up to be, John... For some of us it's a curse. Don't judge me from what you saw in the Milking Barn, everybody has reasons for everything.

Water removal additive is ALCOHOL... First, drain your tank. Second, refill with fresh gasoline. Third, pour in your "dry gas" additive. The problem with alcohol-based compounds s they suck up water. Gasoline rejects it. You put alcohol into gasoline to "soak up" any little bits of water in the tank. It then usually passes through the engine with semi-flammability, and no fanfare. To add dry gas to E85, well..... Futility comes to mind in polite circles. If that E85 had condensation over the winter, your fuel is toast, and needs replacement!

Trimetallic on a steel back shell. No brass journal bearings. Metallic particles occur when you spin abeaing and it finely grinds the cast iron in the block saddle away... Or the rod journal... Etc. The other parts of the bearing (Sn, Cu, etc...) show in oil analysis long before you get ferrous deposition on the drain plug.

Payment Sent for Two, with e-mail confirming address. Thanks!

Pete is delaying production because he's worried about the crabs... Only here can we be so forthright!

"The Hitachi licensed copy is not an exact clone of a BMW system...but it's going to be very close. You would need to work out exactly how the BWM did timing, high-Z/low-Z injectors, injector sizing, fuel pressure, coolant temperature, etc." I'm truly sorry I even mentioned it now... All I can say is "No!"

You are NOT getting it. These modifications are beyond you until you understand how an engine system interacts and functions. You don have this basic knowledge yet.

The key is KNOWLEDGE... You don't have it, that route is not possible. What I said was stick to tuneups and plug wires and LEARNING TO TUNE WHAT YOU HAVE! My bet is you are, as typical, in the 80-100Hp range, and have 50-70 HP to find to get you to STOCK yet!

Been there...

DUUUUUDE! WHERE'S MY P.M.? Don't bogart those juicy bits in Melbourne! Do I have to google them, or what?

"Trash Can Full of Money" --- proper qualifier. We don't count water!

"Stock Electronics" not handling 200 NA HP? Look at the power levels of some BMW 2.8 Liter Engines, and realize swapping ECU's and AFM's is relatively easy to get a factory optimised curve for almost any 2.8 or 3.0 car (even 3.2) they're all Bosch-Licensed and as long as you know the pinouts and make the appropriate adjustments in wiring, "parts is parts".... This is 70's Tech... But again, you guys suggesting turbo? Please go back to the "Megasquirt is too expensive" and realise that if the CHEAPEST Standalone is "Too Expensive" then there is NO MODIFICATION which will be in his price range to get the power he wants! It's an unreasonably impossible budget for the power desired. Unless someone is digging for junkyard parts and has a strong base of knowledge to work from, that power level will NOT be done "cheaply"... Not N/A, and while the turbo may be 'Cheaper' it will NOT be THAT 'cheap'! Speed costs money, his budget is effectively zero in terms of concrete performance enhancements. Stick with plug wires and proper performance tuneup. That's it. Anything else will just be frittering money down the drain. If you don't have the money to do it properly the first time, when do you expect to have the money to do it over again? Just wait till the later and do it right the first time, you will be money and aggravation ahead! Until that time, be happy learning to tune to the maximum potential of what you have. Those skills will transfer to anything.

Don't rev a cold engine now.

Looks like its a magnetic drain plug, and you got metallic, ferrous particles in your oil...

I think your pump estimation was correct. The LD28 cooling water pump specs are in the Jesco Flyer in the Diwnloads Section.

Porting the head is considerably harder than mounting a GT30!

The baseline on my L28 was 147 as well.... But 1/4 Mile times show 200 ish with the trap speed (2695#, 15:50, 89.988mph) That is a stock machine with a 2.5" crush bent exhaust! You don't pick up 100HP (75% increase) by simply bolting crap on... In fact, most cars aren't optimized to get the most out of the STOCK setup before they start slapping parts on and wondering why the performance is lackluster. It's not a 2+2 = 4 Equation... doesn't work like that. 2+2 = 1 for some people, and 2+2 = 7 for someone else in terms of performance. John C has posted ITS engine specs for L24's and L28's online before, which by definition are 'stock'---and in most cases they are making more REAL HP than guys with all sorts of aftermarket modifications for "performance improvement"! If you can tune the base motor to it's maximum potential, FIRST.... Then you have the skillset to take it to the next level. Bolt-on's rarely perform without proper TUNING. And in reality, a properly tuned stocker outperforms many bolt-on franken-machines!

Heh heh heh... yeah Miroux kinda started the "closed garage policy" after Frank and I got curious about their car and the low rpms -vs- lap times they turned... Going into Eau Rouge, that car was NOT running an L24!

"Since mega squirt is so expensive" That one kinda killed the "250 N/A HP" formula right there...

"Would make a profit after fixing it up"--yeeeeah, riiiiiight!

Port the head, cam it, bigger turbo, skip the paint. Remember, YOU ASKED!