Tony D

I know the Datsun Comp pan won't fit the S130...without cutting & welding mucho!

Same dyno we used for JeffP's testing. They are a nice rig!

"Where did that BMW V8 Go?"

"However 16 psi with water/meth injection and an intercooler should have no cooling problems." One left... this is almost Biblical "you will deny it three times before the head gasket blows again!"

"...or, you use a pump drive shaft without a drive gear and prime the motor with a drill." I hear this over and over an over.... and think "This isn't a SB Chevy, you have to drop the oil pump to put the distributor drive back in, not just drop the dissy and drive in place from the top and fire it off in 5 minutes. Has anybody who suggests this ACTUALLY done this procedure? I mean, HOW EXACTLY do you clamp on that distributor shaft with the Jacobs Chuck, that little nubbin piece way down inside the front cover? Inquiring minds want to know.

"Change to a decent T3/T4 hybrid and you can run up to about 12-14psi with no intercooler and make as much as 250rwhp." Ditto! The stock L28ET in Europe was 200HP, not 180 like the states. Uncork the exhaust to 3", run a decent hybrid and fueling and you have easily hit 250 without an intercooler (more if you cam it and port a bit) -- I have seen 380ft-lbs on a car at 8.39psi at 4500rpms. It's not really the HP you want, especially in a wagon...you want that torque and it's hard to beat a turbo for that!

I REALLY like that gauge! Where you get that?

AAR is powered when fuel pump is running. The AAC is redundant, and only a source of problems. The Stock Euro Turbos used a simple idle air bypass exactly the same as the N/A's did. What the hell happened to "cap the AAC"? You seem intent on listening to your own drum, so good luck with that. A single source of idle air that is fixed is all you need. If it idles like crap, do a tuneup and go back to basics. I have no idea why you would put an N/A TB on a Turbo Manifold...but you didn't get a good result. Look at and understand stock turbo air routes in the FSM, you ARE NOT routing it like a turbo should be routed. That hose to the AAR is NEVER under boost! On to better things.

Dyno operators specifically claim any responsibilities for you doing a piss-poor build. They're not lowlifes, they're running YOUR build. If you didn't take the necessary steps be glad you had a gasket let go... Two more strikes left. I suggest you start doing leak down and compression testing your ring lands and rings are next if you don't correct the problem. Go to the FAQ, READ ABOUT COOLING! Timing isn't your problem, cooling is. Yes it is. Yes it is. YES it IS! 24psi cap to start...and digestion of the FAQ.

Nix has the proper repair procedure. The pillars are layered, and structural, unlike the roof. To properly lay beads in the pillars, you need progressively larger sections to access the smaller cuts in further. For the efort, Nix's method isactually faster! i made that mistake ONCE and won't repeat it. The reason people ageing a car cut the roof is the cage becomes the structure... Most builders actually just cut an access hole in the roof corners to complete the tubing for the cage close to the roof. Or they skin it like Nix documents. It's not really that big a job to skin a roof or door compared to the A-Pillars. And the caveat on registration in some states is a valid point. There was legislation in response to hack shops that section a roof, weld it back on using only the outermost portions of the pillar, and have tragic results in an accident.

Stop your Detonation Problem First. All an MLS will do is break your pistons from the detonation you are experiencing. Yes, you are. Yes, you are. YES, you ARE! No, you won't hear it.

One wonders why there is such an extensive service history on a car with such low mileage! LOL

Oh, THAT Paul.... I thought you were talking of some mysterious Internet blogger. Why didn't you say "Equestuocha"? It's how we know him...

Mike / Matt Has thought been given to testing the original G-Nose Undertray? I have recently found a shop in Japan replicating this part true to original including oil drain holes, etc. I don't know the timeframe of this second round of tests, but my plan was to get a couple of these for myself, Burton Brown, and Andy Flagg as they are "stock parts" and can be used in our competition. The original Cd reductions quoted in the original S130 book included this Undertray. PM me if there is interest in getting one for testing and I'll see what I can do about pushing my schedule in Japan to go get them. The shipping is prohibitive, but oversize luggage on a 1K Flyer Benefit makes multiples (3 or 4) a possibility when there on business travel anyway.

I wonder if the 200SX crossmember fits these like a 510? The VG-30 510 wagons I've seen with the Saudi Carb/Distributor have looked absolutely stock...like they were made for the car. That being said, I helped a guy convert from his L24E to a bone-stock L28ET in a Maxima wagon...which he then cruised through CA Smog Check in...and couldn't believe how easy it was. He relocated to the east coast in that car, trailer ing his race Z, with his worldly possessions in on and around that L28ET wagon! He had big ideas of making more power, etc etc etc... But in the end he was so happy with how the bone-stock L28ET ran in the car...he just left it! If I had a Maxima Wagon like that...the Z32 NA in the back yard (automatic) would have a hard time remaining whole... Parts. Is parts! LOL

We used an old fire extinguisher filled with oil to "pre charge" the lube system before first crank. You blast in the oil at 125psi (or whatever your shop compressor can pump air to I suppose) until your sump is full, then go to it. A check valve in the charge line allows you to immediately start the engine without physical disconnection... If you have some HK Hydraulic Disconnects you can pull it immediately after firing up. It sprays from the bar or the cam pretty quickly this way. Everything is flooded before start.

Nice run!

They sell them prefab, my original sensor location was using two-pin sensors (key here!) If you plan on using one-pin sensors that depend on a ground circuit through physical connection to the engine (like the stock gauge sensor) then provision a grounding stud or screw hole to run a 14 gauge wire back to something on the block or chassis!

Bigger Question: Wet or Dry Supercharger??? I mean, not stating that design criteria up front in the first post... C'mon! A wet supercharger design pretty much alters the manifold from velocity/flow dynamics to a tau layer consistency design biased for higher flows within that design parameter.

Yes 10 psi / 1000 - most engines easily have this by 3,000 rpms (like 60psi+!) unless there are clearance issues or something on the suction side causing problems. Recently someone here had a relief valve plunger sticking open, but that was aberrant.

Two Questions: How Accurate is it? Why does it stop at only 8? Guess I'm stuck keeping my Defigauge for a while longer...

I would HIGHLY recommend ITB's with EFI, it completely tames. The Carburetted bad manners and makes pretty high-strung engines tractable...

People just assume the 2liter is not a powerful engine... We made more on our L20A than most make with their strikers lazily loping with a power peak of 5300... At a dismally low compression of 9.5:1, we were making 205 RWHP at 8750rpms, and shifted at 9500 in the higher gears... We went as fast with that setup, out the gate as we did with our L28 when we started (though the L28 only had 217HP at that time...) Get over the American idea that 4,000 rpm cruise at 70mph is somehow "revving too high", find a 4.38 or 4.44 gear set, and start playing. It IS NOT a small block Chevy. You will twist it to 3,500 before considering WOT (which any L-Engine should be at...but...) and then run it. My friend Tomoyose had a 432, with a Grand-Slam GTR 2.2 Bore-Up kit, along with the Mechanical FI Cams for competition in his car. I believe he ran 44PHH's instead of the stock 40's as well... That car would twist the stock 432 tach to the peg... Past 10,000 rpms, and it was his daily driver to work! I can't convey the sound of an S20 or L-Series at that speed...but once you're behind it and hear it unmuffled... You will NEVER forget it!

Jochen Kaphengst is there... He brought his from the USA two years ago.

That's why you install the parachute... I PM'd you on an alternative close to your home base.</p>