Tony D

I would say standard fare for American Built Stuff. I never cut a washer with any FET, Trust, HKS, etc header or intake manifold. Wouldn't surprise me one bit that after 40 years header manufacturers finally realised their cheap flanges isn't work, and made them the proper thickness, while concurrently Canon decided to thin up their manifold flanges to match the crap flanges on American Headers or years! The required torque should not be enough to deflect the stud. Overtorque it, and all bets are off...

Two things: 1) " It was a warranty job and being such we had the finger pointed at us until we showed proof that all the fasteners associated with the timing belt and water pump were produced. Luckily we use one of those high end digital Snap On torque wrenches and the tech had the forsight to photograph each bolt being torqued to spec based on the installation proceedure handed to him. Why we ever needed to go that far is beyond me, but the manufacture of the timing kit bought the customer a new engine!" Welcome to my world, Ray! I have used photographic evidence consistently for warranty validation/denial extensively! It's become standard when dealing with claims overseas or great distances-remotely now since digitalis became cheap. It's why I'm in the Philippines right now. It was all conjecture until the site people showed us two dimensional checks where it became clear it was measured correctly, or even ifit wasn't, doing it the right way would still result in improper dimensions! 2) One of the things I stress in my training is common sense. Just because something is written down doesn't necessarily mean you blindly follow it. This is ongoing in the mechanical trades, John Muir in an addendum to "The Idiots Manual" for VW relates a customer upset because they followed directions EXACTLY on a clutch change, and the car wouldn't come out of gear. They found the clutch disc installed in the car still in the cardboard box, staples and all! It never said take the clutch out of the package... I have had knockdown drag out arguments with safety officers who place total dependence on operators writing safety work permits in refineries based on a "checklist" whereby the operator never THINKS about what he's doing, he follows a checklist and that will get people killed. There is NO substitute for a skilled technician or engineer who THINKS about he task at hand, questioning the "checklist items" in a work process when something comes up that isn't taken into account. As someone said, the bolts are similar to others elsewhere, and even in the FSM they make torque dependent on head stamp (4,7,9) for the same thread! Aluminium should not (from an aerospace perspective) have bare threads, rather should be helicoiled for all fasteners. Why? Thread strength primarily, but the realities of field work dictate helicoils in place stop damage such as this happening.

My bud Keith had a Pulsar GTi-R that wasn't boosting... Called me over to diagnose it. Signal Out line was off the HKS EVC. I put it back on, double zip-tied it in place and told him take it for a ride. He wanted me to do it... Nope bud, been here done this, take YOUR car out for a spin. He did similarly, short shifted to second and was feathered because of oncoming traffic, as he got into second he went WOT...FORGOT He had left the EVC in "Scramble Mode" and 1.5 KgC slugged those wheels hard...car stopped moving and started crabbing sideways burning the tires in an intersection till it started bouncing on the rev limiter. After that, we realised something, EVERYBODY who drove that car, suitably warned, seemed to have their grin attached to the tach in second gear...when boost came on you just started grinning like an idiot wider and wider as it went to redline. Then it just stayed there for the rest of your sprint. Man, that was a fun car... Gollum, PM me before you spend your Money on the setup nobody has done! I'll betcha a buck someone has at one time or another! Oh, and 1750 was where my T3 Hybrid with the 0.48 Hotside A/R could make 17 psi! All naysayers aside, if you do a "Bell Build" using the smaller A/R and modern wheel cuts, you aren't out of turbine flow till over 6000 rpms, and have the ability to boost like crazy almost off idle. I had one Track Instructor repeating at the MSA Auto-X how he "don't like turbo cars because they have a non-linear power delivery" but once we lift the line he kept repeating "this is a turbo car?" And by the end of the course it was more like "THIS is a TURBO car? I GOT to dive this car!!!" Remember JeffP had the same exhaust backpressure as inlet manifold pressure at 650+HP and 7,000 RPMs on his T3 0.63 Hotside Turbine. That is something the "old" books says only happens in F1 (dating their production/printing timeframe!) if Jeff can make 700HP on a 0.63 A/R turbine with that kind of backpressure... Seems clear to me larger A/Rs simply narrow your power and if you are unwilling to cross the mythical 7500 rpm zone. Jeff realises now there is more myth than facts out there regarding Turbo-L's and craves the day his forged bottom end goes back into the car to test his actual power peak on his setup. His terminal HP was turbo airflow limited. He was making similar power at 7,200 at 17psi as at 7,000 on 21 psi, or 6800 at 25 psi. "And then the X-Series came out with more flow in the critical 18-25psi portion of the map allowing 100 more HP to be produced" and Jeff started looking for excuses to replace his current GT35R with one of those new X-Turbos...

The AR has Glassfibre stock... Try using carbon Fiber vomit matrix!

I was somewhat excoriated by a manager for buying a torque wrench that was 5X the cost of the factory-supplied tool. Now, two years later, and over 100 critical fastener re torque procedures I amaze everybody because my runout specs consistently run 0,01-0,03mm against a range of 0,07-0,25mm using the factory tool. 100+ procedures and not a single broken stud in service...the factory tool kit has something like a 85% failure rate... Sometimes the tool you use DOES materially effect the outcome of the procedure. Torquing fasteners is a terribly misunderstood and overlooked aspect of assembly.

Core

What's this "rust" you guys obsess about on Z-Cars?

Standard lubricated M8 torque is less than 30 ft-lbs... Try to torque a bolt with oil on it to that and it will pull out of most steel sub assemblies! But yeah, brake cleaner cleaned 12-15 ft-lbs is more than enough (144 ~ 180 in-lbs, actually...if you're using a ft-lb tool on cam tower or front co er bolts, I don't know what to say...) "Head work is a precision bit of work, best accomplished without large hammers and I-R Thunderguns..." Just curious, anybody look what the diamond/circle/square drawing in the FSM calls for in EM section?

Argh... "Yes" http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread3174.html

It wasn't clarified if this is an "early" or "late" tank, either. The OP never gave a reason for why an alternate was being considered, or why the stock tank was unsuitable or use. Until recently, New tanks for the late 280's were still available. I have one with the part sticker still on it...from a "project car" that also had a NOS door shell in the hatch area. Was that ever considered, or is this more than a parts needed quest?

There is a place replicating the 100L Factory Rally Tank out of Aluminum now, just got photos of it this week... Cost would be (before shipping) more than most SoCal rollers sell for today...

I have seen the stock rail feeding front and rear carbs using the stock mechanical pump and restrict or. Never tested it myself other than for an informal transport or farting around car...but it seems to work fine. Put a "T" in there and monitor fuel pressure. If it stays where its supposed to be...you're done. Experimentation and documentation are recommended!

Carbon Fiber Vomit Matrix...

Header THICKER than the manifold.. Now there is a new one! Thick washers are employed to clamp the two manifolds together. I don't know of any aftermarket kit that contains washers, they all require you to re-use your original manifold washers.

Yes.

Yep, could be the rear core plug! Could try some Aluma-Seal, wouldn't be the first time it solved a problem like this...

My standby has. Always been those Michigan State Police 100/130W H4's in a conventional housing. The HID conversions have an attractive draw of being lower ampere draw, but every kit I've seen that claims to be "Drop-In H4 Conversion" has had terrible lighting...sometimes lots of terrible lighting, and no ability to swap Hi/Lo properly. The 510 Guys have it made with being able to swap BMW 5" HID's into their rides relatively easily!

You will find your life immeasurably eased by free calls! You can still set up multiple accounts, so setting one up "at home" as well as in the USA will allow you to phone home as well. Just about any internet cafe with decent wifi will let you contact people via voice call. Gets sketchy on video calls sometimes, but voice is pretty decent. I actually started using it for flight reservations or talking with "customer service" at credit card companies "back home"... For our travel agent my average phone call was 45 minutes! Free sure as hell beats $5.35 a minute to buy an airline ticket that's restricted because it costs $250 more... I was spending more on the phone call than the price difference! MBA's, go figure... Beats the $3,750 monthly mobile bill, that's for sure! (Seriously, I got that one time!) for my company, I'm roughly 30% of the bill every month, but for days abroad or on the road away from the office, my per-day cost is the lowest in the company. It confounds the accountants. Then again, I steal the toilet paper from the hotels as well...

Back pressure regulation. FPR after the "load" (carbs) - the pressure is controlled by restricting flow back to the tank. This allows full pump output to be put to the carbs during WOT when the floats drop. Most charts are for street cars, not racing vehicles. Be sure you know what you are looking at in this regard. Almost any 40 mm Carb Guide will be for street use.

"I am not doing anything half assed. I have just made the determination to use my 77 280z Cam, because input from the crowd for or against was never answered." You just aren't looking for the answer. It's there and has been said over and over again: if you are BUYING a cam, don't waste your money on ANY stock cam! I've see more than one idiot pay more for some supposedly "desirable" USED STOCK CAM than you would pay for a PROPER REGRIND that would net you REAL results. But there is a slothful ness that has permeated this line of thought from the outset, and dooms the project. Everything being asked about has been discussed. Ad Nauseam. Or it's in any of the basic printed reference material out there everyone building their first engine should have on-hand for the effort. Gollum nails it once again: it just isn't going to matter that much from one stock Crappy Bumpstick to the next. You wanna plunk down $100 for a cam, call Isky, get a 460 or 470" lift regrind of the stock cam with slightly altered valve events (closer to N/A than Turbo)--- that grind will be head and shoulders a bone ANY stock cam you can buy from some Dilbert on eBay. Now, if you're like me, and have a Class 5 Hoarders in the back yard, you COULD experiment quite a bit. IMO there is one word for ANY stock Nissan "JAPAN" Cam: C O R E !

Glad you gave us a heads up!

Bit of advice on Aeromotive, like Harbor Freight, pull it apart and make sure it's clean & assembled properly.

I bought a cheap $9 set of combined earbud/microphone to plug into my travel laptop, only because using the internal speaker and microphone is like speakerphone--everybody can hear everything. There is always a reason not to do something, or you can make it happen. Having all your ducks in a row beforehand to start your project is a good idea, but really he costs involved for any number of Mobile data-based services (free application, data only charges for connection) using VOIP gives no reason not to be able to phone anywhere, anytime, for close to nothing. If I can do it from a grass hut "Internet Cafe" in PNG, Zamboanga, Nigeria, or The Congo... I'm thinking the desire isn't there. That's fine, but connections like this are really easy with minimal investment, lets not kid ourselves. I'm not up on what a Blackberry can or can't do, but desktops/laptops I know make this a breeze! If you wait or someone else to respond to your schedule (as I have learned in the past) you are surely in for disappointment. Sometimes, you got to set the alarm and make that 2AM phone call. Just write down what you want to cover BEFOREHAND so you don't forget it at 02:15 halfway through the call!

I have seen cross-pollination of rods before where people weld "c" spacers to the sides of the rod to make one fit another, and Blanchard grind the sides for proper clearance... I would say if they were advertised to "fit", that is what they should do! 3mm a side is far too much to be something that is "drop in" unless people don't care about their side clearance, oil throw-off, etc... It sounds like a Honda Width. People do use Honda Rods when offset grinding the crank... But you can grind whatever journal you want then!

Yep, between a Merc and the BMW oil burner...I think Frank280ZX's was 245 HP, 420 nm torque... All on the stock BMW stuff, just a chip reflash at Essing Diesel Tuning...