Tony D

It's a very simple matter to take it to a shop with a flow bench and have the runners flowed (and matched in flow capability...) And understand that porting your head to exceed the flow of your intake is probably wasted effort!

"1. The stock intake runners have pretty small inner diameters - probably good to 350-400 whp but will limit airflow at the top end." OK, let's be correct here... The stock manifold is not good to " probably" 350-400HP, it's been proven at over 650HP (At various RPM levels with boost of 17, 21, and 25psi) Yeah n they're small, but they DO flow at 190CFM, BETTER THAN ANY STOCK UNPORTED HEAD! So can we PLEASE stop blaming the MANIFOLD in turbo applications when it's the HEAD PORTS that are the problem???? L-Head Power has ALWAYS been "in the head"-this doesn't change when huffing the engine!

Nothing like making more work for yourself on something you plan on breaking anyway. Less talk, do it and tell the results. Wanking endlessly on what if scenarios and overly-complex mechanisms for power when adding boost does the same thing with a flick of your wrist. I can show you non-stroked 1100hp L28ET's Can you show me a 3.2 in that power range? Verified? Put it together first. Then turn up the boost. The L20ET ran to 680HP, you plan on needing more than that?

Harness gets resistance as it gets older... The response you get from the sender is MORE than 0-XXohms, it's wound closer together at one point to give more resistance for 1mm float drop than at other places (see the drawing earlier to see why)... So as resistance builds you may never get to "empty" once you are below 1/2 tank, or vice versa. If the sender wires are corroded and the wiper doesn't contact well, it will jump all over as well. Resistance anywhere can cause back feeds in the sensor loop. I had some crossed wires from the PO on my 73... For quite a ahile my gauge read ore toy...until I stepped on the brakes! Then itvslooooowly went to "Full"!

EFI Speed out of Australia, Kinsler, TWM, Pegasus Racing...

"N50-15 Positraction Torque Twisters on 12" wide steelies with dog dish hubcaps" FLASHBACK! AGE REVEALED (on both teller, and anybody who knows what that actually means..."B70-13")

Necroposted again! In the interposing 2 years, if anybody is still dubious on how you make airflow without an impeller, I direct you to your local DYSON distributor, and take a look at their bladeless fans (one freestanding unit of which I have just ordered for my house from the United Airlines Mileage Plus Premium Catalog).... The Dyson uses a small higher pressure compressor and the air-amplification mechanics described above to impell COOLER air in the same manner as a fan---without the noise. They're pretty neat, and I would never BUY one...but getting such an opulent sign of consumerist decadance for merely sitting on my arse in a tin tube 5 miles high....or spending money on a credit card appeals to some recessive Scottish Gene in me somewhere!

Mine starts to ping above 3500...

Core Datsun Parts LLC sold them, but frankly any auto parts store should have a 'list' of the plugs required per block. When PJO needed some in Sweden, I just went to the local NAPA and had them give me the core plugs for the Datsun L28, 1983 (he had an F54). They had a lookup list, they aren't anything special, you just need to know the sizes and one for a toyota or chevy fits just fine. Like Chevy Thermostats---54 mm same as the Datsun. Fits fine. Make your own kit 'o core plugs! SOMETIMES when you order all the plugs for a block, there is a price break, and that is what they classify as 'kit pricing'... And if you go to NAPA, make sure if you're an AAA member, tell them, at a minimum it's a 10% discount. Ive gotten as much as 50% off some items shocking me and the counterman!

I'd just restrain myself to 10psi and the stock regulator until you get standalone. the RRFPR will be teats on a boar hog soon as you get the standalone, why waste the money. It's a 1960's solution for using STOCK injectors to retain driveability at idle while expanding power on the top end WITHOUT larger injectors. Not a big RRFPR Fan... Agreed, just go COP or even stockish Z31 coil with the GM Driver initially, no need for a BTM when you have MS, you will directly program the spark retard, and not simply pull in a linear fashion. I like the Turbo XS Boost Controller, the dual solenoid so you have a "lo" and "hi" boost. Hell, they have four solenoids now so you can use one pressure per gear (which actually is needed in some applications...I was going to make due on the Bonneville car with two pressures, but now likely will employ that one. 8# in first (350HP), 17 in third (650), 25 in fourth (more than 650) and the full monty of 30 psi in fifth if we can keep it on the ground. What we likely will do is tailor each boost to wheel spin propensity at speed or while accelerating... but I digress.... GET A DETONATION STETHESCOPE! I don't care if it's some latex tubing to a harbor freight mechanic's steth earpieces or some garden hoses siliconed into old ear defenders---DO NOT rely on you being able to hear the detonation while tuning. Especially at your age.... The 'Electronic Ears' sold by the previously mentioned company are the ticket for tuning a good curve. You can make this on your own if you know how to amplify the signal from the VW Knock Sensor---then ouptut it to any set of ear buds or earphones. There was a Dodge Website that had a circuit on it...but that was several laptops ago...I wouldnt know where to start now to link you to that one!!!

Yerp, the JDM Stuff is all very similar. Tomei is currently selling a nice kit!

Have you been er torquing your head bolts every tune up like Nissan Recommends? One of the primary reasons fasteners lose their torque and then fatigue cycle and fail is a phenomenon known as "embedment"... Aluminum displaces over time, and you can lose torque. Similarly, gaskets compress and your torque (clamping force) is lost... Then things start leaking! Once the leak path is established it's almost impossible to stop it without introduction of a sealant. There was a REASON those head bolts were called to be retorqued EVERY tune up! A universally disregarded procedure. It was not to prevent breakage and seized bolts... It was to combat embedment or gasket compression and fretting damage to the head gasket!

Yep!

Remember it's water-side, if the head is walking that oil will seep. The way to stop the oil seepage is to put the orifice in an external line and plug both the head and block oil passage at the head surface. We would do that with Chevy Vega Engines all the time in the 70's. I had real good luck when I changed the head on my L26, I bought a stock Nissan Gasket for the engine, and it was actually that graphoil material, with extremely tacky sealant stuff on it---the gasket was in a plastic protective wrap. I put that on the car in 2000 and it's been leak free since, despite pinging like crazy from bad CA gas, overheating it several times, blah blah blah. Probably helped I changed the gasket and then drove 18,000 in the three weeks after the change... literally finished the job at 5PM, finished packing the car at 2AM, and was on the road at 7AM going almost non stop for three weeks!

Go on some japanese website and you will be amazed...

Kiwi, we all know to show at the Bars on Thursday Evenings in Sydney for the best singing revue!

A 1958 Borgward Station Wagon is "Rare".... Doesn't mean it's worth anything to anybody that doesn't need it or want it. I would say 'No'...

There was a White Service Body Dually with a Rat-Motor that ran at Brotherhood Raceway in LA's Harbor area. Tech at Brotherhood was a bit lax, and he ran with his tool boxes full and open headers... Damn thing would juuuuust lift the wheels and would run 11.30 in the 1/4! Thing that was impressive to me was when he started, the truck was running 15's! For a Dually full of tools, that is literally HAULING! To get it into the 11's was amazing to watch.

A latching relay in the starter circuit, activated by a hot button someplace not easily found (like in the LOCKED glove box, or a Hazard Light Switch that is stuck into the console hiding in plain sight. The relay allows placement almost anywhere and the control wiring and button can be exceedingly small. This lets you put the relay hiding under the dash on the passenger side, not where the thief bastard SOB would first look, and then putting the button elsewhere. If you put the switch easily accessible, chances are a thief will run his hand over it because all the easy to reach places pretty quickly and this means a simple toggle is an easy giveaway. A button grounding a latching relay to open/close isn't the normal thing to run across. And a hazard switch, running light switch, even the stock antenna MOM switch would work. They used to sell membrane switches. These are genius! You can slide them under the carpet and have to know 'the special spot to touch' to activate it. Using a simple timer chip that automatically unlatches the relay after you shut it off after 5 minutes (passive arming) keeps you from punching the button all the time if you shut the engine off in the drive through, or at a light, in stop-n-go-traffic.... And may entitle you to an insurance discount.

Agreed. I would say under 350HP a 225mm clutch with proper facing is suitable and helps revs from lower MOI. This may make it at 400. I prefer 3.70 ratio with stock cam, it seems to work really well for the highway merge. I like the two-stage TurboXS poppet boost controllers. After living for years with an EVC I realized I was running one of two boosts "Everyday" and "Bring it ON!" A flip switch keeps it under the hood close to the wastegate actuator, making for crisp controller action compared to long tubes used on most stuff with remote mounted solenoids and stuff like that. The thing I'm not really cool about is the head and cam being left out. You can make 400HP on the stock hydraulic head (Steve 'Stealth' Webb was doing it 20 years ago!), but you are running up the pressure ratios like crazy and generating a lot of heat and thrust load on the turbo. If the head was ported like an N/A, and flowed 210-220 CFM the power you would make would be a such an exponentially lower pressure you could almost make 400HP without an intercooler (seriously!, 380Ft-Lbs at 4500 rpms and 8.39 psi of boost close enough????) I would call this a typical "Maximum Boost" Style build, my preferences go toward flow more than pressure. As I've oft been heard to say "Boost is nothing more than restriction to flow." The lower boost you run, the lower fuel pressure you run, and the easier it is to get fuel pumps that aren't running off the high end of their curves at pressures above 5-6 bar. This allows you to "Tailor" the injectors sizing through tweaking fuel pressure higher or lower to get the pulsewidth you want for best idle and low-speed driveability. BTW, all EFI regulators are Manifold-Referenced meaning by default "Boost Referenced" -- you really don't want one that isn't, even on an N/A. Usually when people mention an FPR, its a non-linear (rising rate) style for more fueling at boost, which is why you run an EMS in the first place! I'd skip the 60mm T/B...but clean the inlet runners. An Extrude-Honed Stock Intake will flow about 190 CFM per runner. So getting your head to flow to AT LEAST that point would 'match the components', porting the head fully to the 210-220CFM range allows for a debottlenecking with ITB's or Lone-Wolf style intake later allowing more flow and the same boost...meaning more power without more heat and pressure. Echo... Echo...Echo...Echo...

Withdrew an offer due to work delaying my return :^( Confirmed a purchase of a pair of upgraded Klipsh KG4's and a pair of LaScalas... Second item not directly Z related, but it does free up two speakers for the work area. My neighbors will soon become very irritated by my long nights working on the car whenever I'm at home. The boom box can go away and that 100W video amp can get some decent speakers on it. And the big amp in the house will now get LaScalas. I'm glad the cat is gone. It would die from stress at the SPL I'm going to drive those to!

It is NOT Mikuni. Looks like one of the generic JDM units, or possibly Nissan Comp (FET and most of the JDM stuff was copied from the original 165HP Nissan Triple Mikuni Setup originally designed for implementation on the top-of-the-line L24, with the SU's being 15HP less and on the base model.)

Most will say use Teflon adapters on anything smaller than 14mm to allow you to run any injector you want. Can put an 11 or 8 in a 14mm hole using a simple adapter and o-ring... But a 14 doesn't go in an 11mm ole!!!

My L28/N42 as well! The engine in the Fairlady has 185 across the board, you would think...

My understanding is Clark County enforces CA Smog without the Pre76 exemption to keep people from "doing the obvious"... My favourite lunchtime entertainment spectacle was the guy in the jacked up monster-mudder Oregon-Plated 4x4 getting waved into a random roadside dyno emissions test. I could hear him yelling on the wind almost 50m away! CHP was there, taking third vehicle off the light and 6th random vehicle (lane sequential apparently 1,2,3) in flowing traffic... Flagged down and waved in!