Tony D

I'm sure if he considers that a complete vehicle ready for sale save for low freon in the AC system, the rest of his "many projects" should be ready soon as well. Did you know it was low of Freon?

Don't feel bad. When I did the examples the guys at our factory STILL didn't believe me. The next day I saw four guys with a 36" Stillson and a 2M snipe on it reefing in a 2" pipe to the body of our Main Oil Pump (no, that wouldn't POSSIBLY distort the pump body would it?) they were going for 'another turn' rather than letting it "loose" and allowing the sealant to do it's job! I felt a lot better after we contacted the Loctite Rep, who was 'local' in that he was the same ethnicity. When he did his demonstration and barely turned a 2" fitting 360 degrees from finger-tight there was palpable discontent. As a few field guys interrogated him, he stood firm and insisted that was enough. A roar went up through the crowd. Nobody could believe a fitting "so loose" could hold ANY pressure. I couldn't speak the language, but by body language alone I know this was the case. So quickly I grabbed a regulator and screwed it into another fitting on the base plate and started pumping air into the vessel. Less than 15 minutes from turning in the fitting, the big fitting held 5psi (this was a hot oil reservoir that never saw more than 1psi if that...) It's very common, the educational level about proper bolting and threaded connections out there is amazing. When YOU start getting blamed for leaks (and nobody else in the world has them...) you start looking closer and learning a LOT about how to correctly put fittings together! When I started in Hydraulics, it was ALL metal-on-metal sealing. You learned CLEANLINESS was #1, wrapping of the dreaded teflon tape properly was #2. When those first Anerobic Sealants came out widely, it was like a GODSEND! Suddenly fitting makeup was EASY! But that lead to shortcuts, and nobody trained 'the old ways'... There really is no substitute for the basics: a clean joint, and proper fitting makeup and tightening. You do that, and you will have a good leak-free joint. Once you master that technique, sealants only add a margin of insurance, and the ability to make up the joint with far less angular motion. Meaning it comes apart and goes back together easier when it's maintenance time. Hope you got the leak nailed. If the fitting is bottoming out, you can helicoil the NPT, use red loctite on the outside of the coil going into the fuel rail, and PST 567 on the Male Threads of your fuel fitting after giving the red some time to set up properly. You should then be able to remove and remake the fitting without worrying about pulling the coil out later on. But if it ain't leaking...no need to take it apart again, right!

A cheap set of Harbor Freight NPT Taps solves all those problems Leon mentions. No, they ain't the greatest, but for the soft aluminum they work just fine!

"guess I didn't check the end play and 'assumed' it was correct." Measure 3X, Assemble Once! I always check and lap the thrust bearings to where they need to be. Picked it up teething on VW Air Cooled Engines where you have to set the end play with shims on the flywheel and you do it on every one! At least you know why now. That is completely within the realm of believable happenings. We continually disassemble machines at my job where we see thrust bearings coked and overheated. Outside of an oiling issue (which normally wrecks the journals first) when we see journals fine and thrust faces all grunged up and damaged--we check the oil clearance an without fail someone skimped on the clearances. Generally ANY bearing requires 0.003" for proper oil flow through the surface. This is big enough to let a continual flow cool the surface, build a proper hydrodynamic wedge, and let small swarfs (like fuel soot in the oil or the odd bit of broken off varnish from the oiling gallery) pass easily through. Go even 0.001" smaller to the 0.002" range and you run the risk of running hot and making varnish (which closes it up further, meaning more heat, meaning more varnish, meaning less clearances and so on and so on and so on...) Going to 0.004" and you decrease oil pressure if you have a marginal pumping system, but watching the oil throwoff temperatures you see it drop by almost 15F! (We can do this for new Engineers to demonstrate what gearbox setup items are critical. We can change these on our machines in about two hours while on the test stand...) On our High Speed Pinions (54K rpm) you will routinely see 75C with 0.003", but 66C at 0.004", and 85-90C at 0.002"!!! This is on the 'active' thrust side... the inactive always runs cooler due to little or no load so we don't instrument it.

"I think the best place to monitor coolant temp is at the rear of the head. Monitoring it at the thermostat housing doesn't give you an indication of what the hottest part of the engine is doing." Put that as a sticky at the Cooling FAQ Threads!

It's not my intention here to create an argument, Evans does have a 'patent' on this. It is the first time I have seen it in person. Please reference the 'obscure second method' I mentioned earlier. This was revealed to my by a GMI Engineer from SBC Testing in the last portion of the 1950's. Evans is suing GM because they 'stole' his patented idea for reverse flow cooling on the new small block. As High School Students we were directed by that same GMI Engineer into doing a Trans Am 6.6 Liter Reverse-Flow Cooling system in 1979. It's been revealed to me that (not in reverse flow configuration) Electramotive also used the Amot Bypass Controller in the early 80's as shown in the Evan's Patent. Patents sometimes can be the purview of those who simply documented their work and not the original creators. GM knew about this for about 30 years before someone else patented it. Why they didn't who knows... But that system has been known to people for quite a while. Before it was patented!

This is really overblown. The factory cast iron exhaust manifold isn't as bad as you make it out to be--and with a little carbide work to remove some ovbiousl flow restrictions can be a VERY good manifold with nobody being the wiser. This goes for both N/A and Turbo Manifolds. You really have to look at what power he's looking to make as "Seriously Restrict" may be (is) quite a bit of overstatement IMO. With 150+RWHP from unported stock manifolds a matter of no issue whatsoever, and quite a few 170 and 180HP cars out there with ported stock cast steel manifolds exactly how much horsepower is his goal? The original stated purpose of 'mild cam and mild porting' would easily come within that realm. And even the Rebello "Purist 2.7" (CRANK HP RATED--maybe 200-210 RWHP at best!) would not suffer much of a loss with a stock cast steel ported manifold running appropriately sized 'replica exhaust' of 75mm mandrel bent tubing. The headers aren't giving you 100HP like on a big block Chevy. Maybe 1/3 that if you are lucky. Realistically, maybe 15HP. The power really is in the head, and not what you bolt on to it. Review the difference between SU's and Webers on Scott Burkhardt's build, it's a good example. For me, 15-20HP is not a 'serious restriction' when you consider the ease of passing through any inspection, any time. If it's street-driven and not a full time racer...it's really spending money and effort on bits that you remove all the time. What a pain! Easiest to comply and remain under the radar. The tuning of the engine and suspension will always be more important than a single bolt-on component external to the engine. Always. <div><br></div><div><br></div><div>And the Kennemetal process will run him $450+ shipping two ways. There's almost nothing you can't reach in the stock manifold with a standard carbide, a 6" carbide, and a standard set of cartridge rolls. An old flexible shaft collet head, connected to an old washing machine motor will return the same results for far less money and time expended. Extrude Hone stock EFI manifold, maybe... Turbo Hot Side Housing, yes. </div><div><br></div><div>The exhaust manifold? Meh, lots of cost and no discernable gain from what you can do on your own! If you have a welder that can bulk up some of the outside areas to allow a better match porting (see JeffP's exhaust manifold page on what he did near the head flange area on his turbo manifold) and you will have something that is amazingly good in flow for what it cost!</div>

If you want a quiet Holley Red, put it on the rubber mounts, and run a BACKPRESSURE REGULATOR and not the POS Holley set up like the one in the photo above! The noise and high amperage from the Holley comes from people running it to a pressure really high, with a restriction regulator set up like that to make the pump work as hard as it can for max pressure to the bottom of the reg, then the reg giving you what you need downstream. This setup can only give you as much fuel as the orifice in the regulator can pass. A possible restriction. And working the Holley in a possible deadhead or continual max pressure setup makes for short vane life (and brush life)... Running it as a backpressure regulator, the full delivery of the Holley is available to the carbs, it only ever makes 3-4 psi (opposed to like 12psi upstream of that regulator in the photo), and your pump stays quieter, runs longer, and runs cooler! Lower Amperage is good on a car with such limited alternator capacity!

Could it be Z-nis Envy? Z-nis envy in Freudian psychoanalysis refers to the theorized reaction of a normal motorist during their driving development to the realization that they do not have a Z. Freud considered this realization a defining moment in the development of driving and driving skills for men. According to Freud, the parallel reaction in Z-Owners to the realization that everyone does not have a Z is car-stration anxiety. In contemporary culture, the term sometimes refers inexactly or metaphorically to regular motorists who are presumed to wish they drove or owned a Z.[1] The psychoanalytical concept of Z-nis envy is unrelated to the "small penis syndrome" which is the anxiety of Corvette owners.[2] Why do I see this becoming a signature on somebody's posts forever more... Remember boys and girls, this was originally brought to you by Tony D on June 21st, 2012!

Maybe I missed that in the OP. Or maybe he had a reason to follow you. I don't know. From what I saw in the OP it seemed strange that you were getting so worked up / worried about it. Doesn't change anything I posted as an explanation though, it all still applies. I'm reminded of the lyrics in a "Doors" song right now....

That hold-in / sealing bridge looks like a gutted old-style Amot Element! That is a neat idea for equalizing flow... That is the outlet side, no? Water will feed in from the head-side?

It is the consequence of "cheap sells"--- in air compressors there is something called "API-672"A compressor in the 800hp range would likely cost close to $4,000,000 if fully compliant. That same compressor, designed to "good engineering practices" - meaning it makes the same airflow and pressure, just not complying with all the bells and whistles required with compliance with API672 will run about $175,000 !!! Same production--- and really a guy making fiberglass in a centrifuge likely doesn't need the API unit. Same goes for ASME Coded pressure vessel. Thing is, even though the home units have "good engineering practices" designed receiver for the most part, meaning it won't blow up on you... The thinner tank will be susceptible to corrosion much faster than an ASME Coded Vessel. Thickness is the main component against corrosion in ASME Codes. In Europe, you see a lot of galvanized tanks. Some places like Ozone Generators for water districts will be all stainless steel. And those stainless tanks are THIN (because they don't corrode) but due to this thin construction can RING LOUDLY when hit with pulsations. A used home compressor should always have a tank inspection--if it's rusty I'd pass. That same level of corrosion in an ASME tank will still be good for another 25-50 years! And they don't ring!

transference [trans-fer´ens]an emotional reaction that is generally a reflection of one's own inner needs and conflicts but also may be a reaction to another's behavior. So what would cause you to photograph someone else? What would they have to do? Realizing this, what did you just do---could it be you precipitated the "incident"? That realization as to why they are snapping your pic would be a "guilty conscience"... It seems like much ado about nothing. But then again, that would be MY conscience and transference talking. I was routinely videotaped EVERY MORNING by guys trying to make tapes to turn into the CHP trying to get me busted for driving solo in the carpool lane. Well intentioned, and just enraged that people were flouting the law in their eyes. I had self-righteous bikers on crotch rockets sake teir fingers at my egregious transgression. Of course none of these idiots saw my "HOV Lane OK" sticker placed according to DMV Regs. I had a CNG vehicle. But I understood why they did it. But I wasn't guilty, and it never crossed my mind to stalk someone that way. I don't think that way, and haven't done it. So I don't understand where that thought process comes from. But if it upsets you so much, then it seems you may have done this in the past and this is why it upsets you so much. Frankly, I don't see the big deal. It's like my old distributor principal commenting one of the mechanics staged his tools being stolen from his truck just to get more money out of the company.I never understood what kind of diseased mind would even conceive of that racket, much less think of doing it. Until we had a breaking at the shop. And that greedy pumpkin-headed greasy beyotch had us list the serial numbers on all of our equipment inn our trucks--which she submitted as all stolen during the break-in! Just to maximize the insurance payout. And to top it off, they never paid the guy who's tools were the majority if stuff taken in the shop! All for them. They were a " ME ME ME " pair of people.

One other note: TORQUE is not a valid measurement of NPT Joint Makeup for many reasons. The accepted standard is anywhere from 1.5-3 turns from finger tight, depending on size.In the size range we are discussing I doubt you will get more than 1 full turn on it. You will notice the turns spec will compensate for threads wearing--if you bottom out before making a specified turn... It's oversized ir the fitting is undersized. You either need a helicoil, or properly sized fitting (some come severely undersized!)

Noddle's Permatex is a PST Variant. Each has specific qualities for operating temperatures and pressures but my bet is that it will solve the issue same as PST567.

ARGH! Sealing NPT Threads is a simple job since the advent of Loctite PST!I had to do a big training session with our assembly group in Shanghai, many argued the points, but when assembled as taught, our leak rate went to nothing!Summing it up: 1) Teflon Tape is an anti-gall compound, over tightening is possible with it, it just doesn't work well as a sealant and it's downside outweighs it's perceived advantages. Use of Teflon tape is forbidden on any connection in the oil system on our equipment.2) Joint must be CLEAN-alcohol is a good residue-remover and final cleaning solvent.3) Apply primer if available, to male and female threads.4) Apply Loctite 567 PST to male threads, make sure it goes to the ROOT of the male threads.5) Turn in fitting finger tight, then 1.5 to 2 turns more MAXIMUM (540-720 degrees of rotation). Smaller fittings may not be able to be turned this far, the smaller the fitting the less past finger-tight you will be able to turn it, 1/4 NPT may only get 180 Degrees before "tight"!6) When possible, let the fittings cure two hours before pressurizing. On smaller fittings and lower pressures seal may be affected immediately, but it will get stronger with time.7) If the fitting is in the wrong position and you move it after more than one or two minutes, remove, clean, and reapply sealant as cure has begun and disturbing it can introduce a leak-path.8) OVERTIGHTENING CAUSES GALLING OF THREADS AND LEAKS!9) Proper threads cut will be sufficiently tight to affect a seal at 720 degrees from finger tight WITHOUT SEALANT. If the fitting turns in further, one of the threads is improperly sized or worn from over use, overtightening, or being made in China.10) Proper threads, with Loctite PST 567 applied and screwed in FINGER TIGHT and being allowed to cure have been found without leaks in helium service at 10bar! Overtightening is a major cause of leaks due to deformation of threads (they DO MAKE NPT HELICOILS!) -- leave it slightly loose and let the sealant do its job! My classroom demonstrator is a manifold of several 3/4NPT fittings, one of which is LEFT FINGER TIGHT. By the end of the demonstration I apply pressure and check with Snoop. As much as people shake their heads and argue about it in the class, the final demonstration shows that finger tight fitting holding at 10bar! My guess is the JB-Weld solution is a compensation for poor field practices. It's a bonding agent more than sealant. I'd defer to Loctite PST over JB Weld simply because you can take it apart later for whatever reason. Loctite Green (cylindrical parts locker 608, or wicking 270) also works well, but the PST works really well.

Glyptal in the intake runners is ill advised. While solvent tolerant, paint in intake runners isn't done by anybody... It comes off. The "if" outweighs the "might"! Glyptal in the crankcase is more to seal casting sand in blocks which are not cartridge rolled for oil return. While it smooths the interior incrementally in this role, not a big factor in drain back compared to sealing role. Crankcase temperatures are consistently higher than intake temperatures. The cooling effect of the fuel atomization and airflow through the runners keeps it considerably cooler.

There is an alternative thermostat arrangement using Amot truck thermostat that sets up the radiator in a bypass loop.You take water from the thermostat outlet into Port C, water from the radiator into Port A, and the inlet to the water pump is Port B.This arrangement allows full flow at all times, mixing the coolant from the radiator (which has quite a bit of residence time) in with the outlet water for a temperature on troll on the inlet side of the engine. You size the inlet temperature for Delta-T through the engine at full load, and excess radiator doesn't become a problem under light loads as more bypasses the radiator, giving t more residence time. It's an obscure setup, but it allows the back of the head to be ported to the radiator directly independent of the thermostat. Don't know if you need it, but just putting it out there.

I am with JC, sounds like rejection doesn't equal input. Especially if you have the bypasses blocked. As to "why" you block the bypass (or any bypass): any water shunting from the hottest part of the engine to the inlet without cooling (they bypass the radiator) you only succeed in raising the inlet temperature to the engine. You decrease the radiator capacity. You must have missed that "hard evidence" in the threads. And the engine Dino testing JeffP did in this regard. The ONLY reason for a bypass is to heat the engine faster for warmup and heater operation, and to provide a circulation port for the water pump when the thermostat is closed / near closed. As Pete says, with a restrict or orifice there is no reason to use one. The secondary item that prevents cavitation in the water pump when closed is the thermostat--take a housing sometime and blow 3bar pressure in the bottom. You will see the disc and entire wax pellet assembly move. They are a spring loaded relief valve. Two small 10mm bypasses can't handle the 21gpm+ the water pump makes when quickly revved. It will pop up a bit and burp pressure. Some don't do this, and once they get gunked up this can go away as well. But generally once block pressure is above 44psi, they incrementally crack. As Pete points out BSR blocked that bypass looooong ago. It's common in most engines used for racing. Like the head cooling mods for an SBC. You reach a given performance level, everybody starts doing things very similarly-- there are few secrets, and sound engineering is sound engineering.

Checked my screens and nozzles ... Got discouraged ... Called Enterprise so I could go about my business till Friday unimpeded...

Yeah, and it floated all by itself as well!!! Remember Hooper was a rich kid, he filled his own tanks. You can make a 72 an 80 if you got a good Bauer or Sulzer and bypass / lag some items!

Sometimes a fart is just a fart... Guilty conscience or transference is all I'm seeing... First post with the new iPad!

They do have car lots in Japan that kind of deal with this kind of stuff...

And "Jaws" shows conclusively that an 80CF Steel SCUBA Tank when hit with a 30-06 M1 Garand will blow the head off a Great White Shark when it concussively explodes.

"Air compressor tanks are (at least that I have seen) universally steel, so they are unlikly to explode into shrapnel like an aluminium tank, but rather pop at a deep rust pit and all the air whistle out. At the lower pressure, the air blast MIGHT be enough to tiop the compressor over, but it's certainly not going to turn into a bottle rocket."<br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> Compressed air kills. <4psi will introduce an air embolism through proper misapplication during horseplay, causing a stroke and possibly death. <2.5 bar can separate epidermal layers accompanied by searing pain you never want to experience. 3 bar seating a rim on a passenger car tyre that jumps a bead seat can break your arm. 4 bar in a semi truck split rim not properly seated and in a safety cage can break both your legs, or kill you. 8 bar in a receiver with the right conditions can cause deadly and catastrophic failures... I have seen them in ASME Coded vessels where HAZ areas around end cap welds were weak, and something blew off. One of the reasons I specify getting a used INDUSTRIAL unit in the USA at least is that they generally have ASME coded vessels (and in California they are SIGNIFICANTLY thicker than run-of-the-mill home compressors.) The ASME code has tanks that are almost 100% thicker than home compressor tanks due to their intended service. So the corrosion factor is larger, the welds are better, etc... Most home compressors sold in the USA do NOT comply with ASME Code for a pressure vessel. This is very common where a shop goes in to Home Depot to buy a "5 HP Compressor" and put it in their shop, only to find when they try to permit the vessel with the state that it is unapproved for use in a commercial enterprise! "Home use compressor" means "shite tank"! A 3/4" fitting that comes loose from the receiver because it was a cheap 0.125" wall tank that was a little rusty and the fitting got bumped will come out with ANNOYING force! Annoying to the point of a blood blister and not being able to walk for three days when it hits someone on their kneecap! The problem with corrosion in vessels is SO EASY to combat: if you have a new compressor, put some HCl dilute and then some TSP to wash the interior...mix some industrial 2 part epoxy paint and pour it in an opening plug them up and roll it all around to coat the interior. Let it set, reassemble it with proper sealants to keep water from getting to any exposed threads, and put it in service. Rust will not be an issue in your lifetime. Ameron has some great coatings but they aren't cheap.