Tony D

I was once approached up in Lytle Creek by a BLM Officer because I had my bed-crane in my dually and nylon straps picking up granite boulders. Guy was upset, "What the hell do you think you're doing?" I showed him my 'rock permit' (They issue a permit and you can go pick all the rocks you want out of this huge wash...) Starts telling me it was a "ROCK permit, not a BOULDER permit!" I said "what's that?" (pointed to a rock at his feet) "what, that rock?" "Yeah, what's this?" (pointing to about a 3' diameter rock in my sling halfway into my bed) "That's a boulder" "And by definition a boulder is a ROCK! You are going to stand here and tell me I can fill this bed LEVEL EVEN with 'those' (point to his feet) and come back as many times in the day as I want to do that...ad infinitum, but I can't take SIX rocks of this size to keep idiots from rolling through my fence and into my living room? I mean HOW MANY OF THESE DO YOU THINK I CAN PUT IN HERE AT ANY GIVEN TIME?" We actually had to go BACK to the ranger station and the head guy said "Let the guy take his damn ROCKS, he got a permit, it's not like he hired a crane to pick out something big that supports the road or anything!" Ranger started arguing I WAS using a CRANE to remove them! (apparently there is some issue about 'artificial harvesting') Guy goes and sees my Harbor Freight Crane in the back of the truck and scratches his head... before he can say anything I blurt out: "Hey, that is just to EASILY get them into the truck bed SAFELY. The three of us got to move them MANUALLY in the bed, and if we have to we will just roll them up planks into the bed. We AREN'T taking anything bigger than three guys could move manually! Or would you rather have us slip halfway up a ramp break a leg and then have to respond out there in all those rocks?" Guy says---"If he's moving them manually, then that crane is of no issue, leave him alone!" And we WERE rolling the rocks to the truck, I wasn't driving out into that crap just to get them easily! Rocks are good, and cheap. But sometimes you got to deal with bureaucrats even then! Would you need council approval to put a moat in? Or the castellated posts... A combination of the three could look 'council approvable'!

NOTICE NOW THE TITLE IS NO LONGER "TRUCKCAR" BUT "RAT ROD"!

I don't know WHY it's low, but apparently Freon being low is a primary concern of the seller in regards to completion of his 'project' because he mentions it prominently in the advertisement. Skips the unsmoothed poly body fill between the grafts, that apparently is 'complete' and 'finished'...while the Freon being low causes him no end of anxiety. I mean, if I traveled 1500 miles to buy this thing sight unseen I would be TOTALLY PISSED that the A/C didn't blow MAJOR cold! I mean, the A/C SHOULD blow hard, since the rest of the project blows in such a COLOSSAL WAY! So: "The Freon is Low"

"35W city lights are going to fry that socket and wiring! " That's not a question, that's an authoritative statement of a fact---which is wrong. And which you persisted in murmuring on about. Read the rules: Grammar is required here if you are to be understood in what you are saying. I've talked around it trying to be polite, but it comes down to this: You talked out your arse not knowing about the product or it's background by making that statement and then persisting. STOP IT!

Yes, the key is in the root of the female threads (and of the roots in the male thread going in!) If they are not completely clean... I mean with alcohol or chlorinated solvents so bare, dry metal is available, a 'leak path' can develop. Oil will sit down in there. If you have a burr on the peak of a thread that grinds through the root in the female thread it makes leak paths. In some cases I've used fine lapping compound to lightly 'work in' a fitting and take off nibs, nicks, and burrs with a swiss file before assembly. If you can get the proper Loctite Primer, it makes a GREAT cleaner and final-prep for the stuff. I will apply it to the male pipe threads after priming (and priming the female threads as well) and put my finger over the gob on the pipe to make a nice, smooth surface equal to the peaks of the threads. This pushes the sealant 100% into the roots and you can feel anything on the peaks that may cause problems. It doesn't need to be on thickly, pushed in making 100% root contact on the male threads, I will turn it in a few turns, then back out just a bit (kind of like tapping a hole) to insure the sealant is transferred completely between the first few threads on the female hole all the way to the root. I may go all the way in finger-tight quickly remove it all the way, re-smooth the surface, and then back in finger tight and 1/2-2 turns more. I find that working it slightly back and forth to 'work in' the sealant while finger-tightening seems to have a good effect. Once you put a wrench to it---DON'T BACK IT OFF! Carefully turn it to where it needs to be and STOP. I sometimes wipe the round bead that forms around the base of the male part...other times I don't touch it until days later to make sure the anaerobic action has worked from the bottom all the way to the top. I picked a lot of this up working on hot aircraft hydraulic systems. 165F and 6000psi tends to find leak paths on NPT. That's why they went to an MS-Straight thread O-Ring seal fitting design (which also allows for positionable fittings!) Ideally, the fittings on the end, if going to be adapted to an A/N fitting should really be an MS-Straight. Much more reliable in terms of leaks, and ease of positioning for various configurations. I digress... Good Luck in the morning!

Got FSM?

53+25=78... Then again, service replacement blocks were shipped without serial numbers just "L24" "L26" or "L28" What difference does it make, really? Morbid curiosity? What is the number on the pad on the starter side of the engine>right after "L28"? Or is there anything there?

Yes, we discussed this amongst ourselves---the reverse flow setup may allow for the lower flow of the EWP to function under full load. This would make both JeffP and I very happy (as others I'm sure!) My experience with reverse flowing a 600HP 6.6 Pontiac back in the 70's was that the flow requirement was considerably reduced. I didn't know why then, but in subsequent education later in life I realized the flow path on an engine is exactly opposite of any proper heat exchanger! RARELY will there be anything BUT a counterflow arrangement (lowest temperature coolant coming into hottest part of exchanger first). For this reason, I believe the stock pumps have to be oversized, as well as sized to pump to higher pressures internally in the block to suppress the obvious issues with steam pocket formation and cavitation in the liners and heads which can occur from steam impingement. We just ran out of time, and never got to the next experimental R&D session. As we were successful with stabilizing oil temperatures at or below 240F during these runs (WITHOUT EXTERNAL OIL COOLER) we were confident that the coolant system was adequate for the job, and wouldn't cause long-term problems. But being able to clean up the front end, and go electric for the possible post-cooling benefits still lurk in both our minds! Keep us posted on your tests. The oil jets, of course, would make another interesting thing to check on the dyno after knowing this engine had stable temps at 450HP under load after 5 minutes. Installing them on a known 'stable oil temperature' example would give a number that could quickly be calculated to determine what kind of BTU load these items produce. It would almost be worth it (if there was the time) to do this to a bone-stock L28ET and run the tests! Like JeffP says "Every time you start talking, it costs me $2,000!" Curiosity killed the cat, but satisfaction brought him back!

I kind of agree with Ray. The reason I bought a 260 was they are cheap, have better electricals than a 73 240, and all in all have better performance. I've accumulated 3 more to replace the one I have if something should go wrong---two were GIVEN to me as complete, running cars. A little rougher than the one I'm driving, but straight and complete. The other as I mentioned was $500. It's a relatively easy fix, just drive it till it dies. The parts may work out for you, but then you have a rotting hulk taking up space in your yard. Unless you have buyers lined up waiting for parts (I will give you $150 + shipping for your entire induction/exhaust system, orange air cleaner, flat tops intake manifold, exhaust manifold and headpipe .) But a 2.6 engine? Everybody wants L28's. A four speed? Need I say more. Interior? Good Luck! You're out less hassle fixing it and driving it than trying to sell it and replace it. As to this: "I was driving home from work after a 12 hour valet shift in the hot Florida sun." Come with me to Thailand's Interior, 50C and 98% R/H in the sun, climbing up and down on hot machinery and swinging like a monkey from scaffolding pipes to get around a piece of equipment because it was all set up for people 5' 2" and not 6'! I'm not having sympathy for that 'hard work as a valet'... sorry!

Core Charge is only "huge" if you don't support the vendor by returning the core!<br><br>I walk in, give them my crap part, and walk out with the new remanufactured part. No core 'charge' is ever mentioned or charged!<br><br>If you know the part is bad, drive to MSA (takes 45 minutes from Temecula, depending on which route you take) and exchange it for a reman unit.<br><br>No $400 Core Charge will ever come into the picture. <div><br></div><div>-- EDIT -- Customers would complain our core charges were 'excessive' as well---something on the line of $16K for a $16K part. The philosophy was simple: if you did't get the part back to us within 90 days, you were billed for it. It sure helped deadbeat and otherwise unmotivated lumps get off their butt and HONOR the sales contract they entered into: we give you a part, no questions asked, but we need your old one back! If you want the system to work, you gotta hold up YOUR end of it! -- EDIT --</div>

Lookie what I found! An example for the kiddies. Read what happens and why! http://http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/_downloads/CPSC%20Release%202002.pdf

Nissan Navara = Nissan Frontier Love that Turf Shot! PRICELESS! Maybe time to put up some 2m tall 30cm diameter concrete-filled pipe-posts sunk so only 'axle height' nubs stick up to defend your property! Make it look castellated!

My thoughts exactly! And the Freon is low...

Some technicians possess that German Set of individual feeler gauges with the little 'fish scale' so you know what resistance is being produced! It's in the tool box next to the belt tension tool that actually READS the belt tension on a V-Belt. Not to drop names or anything...

Yep, I'm with Randy--idle in the 1000 to 1100 range if they allow it with the minimum timing you can get to run smoothly, then adjust for 'lean best'... A 1973 240Z adjusted in that matter using 72 Round Tops and AIR into one collector tube of the header (no EGR) piped clean to 83 Catalyzed standards!

"but there is advantage to get a constant flow without cavitation" Not really, the variable flow from the stock pump is due to variable heat input. More rpms, more BTU's into the heat rejection system. IF the pump were capable of MAXIMUM EQUIVALENT flow rates, and you PWM trimmed it down I would say they had something there. But even with constant low flow, there is the possibility of cavitation. JeffP found the EWP was not up to it when pressed at higher HP for continuous use. Remember, we had his engine on the engine dyno and were running 5 minute pulls at power to see if all temperatures were stable. With the EWP the coolant (even on the dyno) temperature kept climbing. When we went back to the Diesel pump, the temperature stopped doing that--indicating to us at least that the increased flow rate given by the stock water pump was justified. These things usually work out in limited duration events, and on lower horsepower engines simply because the flow requirements are not that severe. When pressed, they seemed to fall short. All that being said, it MAY be different on reverse flow, the efficiency gained by doing a proper cool to hot reverse flow of the heat source may decrease the flow requirement to within the range of the EWP to handle it. 5 Minutes at max power on an engine dyno will tell you. Remember the photos on the cooling thread of Jeff's engine on there with the hose sucked closed???? Yeah, 5 minutes at 6300 and 450HP on CAST PISTONS and STEADY OIL/WATER temperature with the stock water pump (diesel)... Most guys don't run their engines for 30 seconds much less a minute at that level...but OEM's do. And you know Jeff, it's gotta be as good as an OEM or it's not good enough!

"So it should probably have an N42 or N47 head, correct?" To paraphrase Shep Proudfoot from "Fargo": "Don't know that, never said that, can't vouch for that!" It has what head it has. Why guess or try to state anything without knowing what Nissan Supplied?

At least you don't have to narrow your camshaft lobes and cut your cam stick to clear those counterweights like the Air Cooled VW guys! Nice clearance checking gauge!

Last one like that I got (with less damage) out of Sacramento for $500.

You know it's low on Freon, right?

" Making sure that the rail isn't cracked would also be good, but I doubt that "30-40 ft/lbs" would cause that kind of damage." I would disagree! ESPECIALLY if it was lubed with teflon tape. TORQUE is the resistance to rotary motion read on your wrench. On a common fastener, 15% of that resistance is friction on threads, 75% under-head friction, and 10% stretch on the fastener providing clamping. Changing the thread or underhead frictional coefficient can radically overtension the stud leading to breakage. Something small like changing from a graphite based to Moly-Based thread lube can affect the tension by as much as 300%! On NPT threads, just about the ONLY thing you have to resist torque IS thread friction! And this is compounded by the wedge action of the thread formation. Putting teflon tape in there radically changes the makeup torque---especially as the torque rises, and the teflon gets a chance to extrude and let the threads 'slip'! Proper thread makeup is starting with a clean dry fitting and determining depth at finger tight (which is somewhat subjective, but reasonably controlled) and then to go anywhere from 1/2 to 2 turns more with the fitting. Thread condition (burnishing) and thread sealant used can RADICALLY change how far that thread will engage--and subsequently which 'wedge loading' you will have from the taper. There is a reason everybody is saying 'check the rail for cracks'! It's SO common that the threads are 'torqued' instead of 'turned in' that the fittings on alloy parts split! Put an inch-pound torque wrench on a 1/4npt fitting and screw it in using '1 turn from finger tight' DRY and watch what happens as you 'torque monitor' that fitting on the first, fifth, and 10th installation. Each of those would produce a leak-free seal on clean-dry threads (or should!) From that demonstration alone you will see the torque variance rules out torque as a valid way to measure if it's 'tight enough'. Now put teflon tape on a new fitting, and with a new hole, turn the threaded fastener in to the same series of torques you recorded on the first hole. By about #5 I'm betting your thread is 100% bottomed in the hole---even though it was 'tapped tight' and had an issue fitting to proper depth initially! Like I said, I have a demonstrator for this stuff doing Training in China. Thread sealants and anti-friction anti-gall devices work great IF you use the proper installation method. I would venture to guess that 30-40 ft-lbs on a teflon taped 1/2" NPT fitting is about 100 to 200% overtorqued! Meaning colossal overstresses and thread deformation occurs in the female threads. They make up and stay leak-free with incredibly low torques... In the long and short of it, the NPT fitting is really an 'ANGLE-TURN' fastener, like many engineered fasteners on cars today. It's just the education about that point is lacking.

Stagnant water is not good, one thing people forget about the stock pump, it generates 40 psig (around 3 bar) inside the block when running under load. This increase in pressure assists in suppression of steam formation, when you remove a high flow pump and go with something slower, lower flow, even if in reverse, don't discount the loss of that pressure under load which formerly helped stop that formation. Most electric pumps I've seen haven't produced flows comparable to the stock pumps and were only suitable for limited-applications. They may fare better in reverse-flow due to increased efficiency, it is unknown until actual testing is done. It would be great to do an instrumented test run on an engine dyno where you can compare baselines before and after the cooling system modifications--especially the reverse-flow!

That tag signifies it was the 1,906th engine produced during Showa Year 53 (1978)---after that, I doubt anything else is discernable other than indeed, it was a factory exchange engine.

" I'm driving the Z mostly outside of Paris in the country side where twisty roads are (with no traffic jam)." For out in his barn, my uncle preserves for me an old Z, of 40-odd years... To keep it as-new has been his spirit's dream! Sounds like you have to watch out for those Gleaming Alloy Air-Cars! If you go to France, run the 'Reverse Blitzkerig' Route through Belgium and Holland...and stop by to see the Hybrid Z's in Frank 280Z's old Cow Barn! Once you're there "You're close to everything"!

Ahhh, the 80's when cars were interesting, and F1 had horsepower!