Tony D

Well, those trumpets work on my application... It does generally conform to the stated range of rpm application...

Ray has a good point, on any roadway in the state, it's CHP Jurisdiction. And they DO respond. My bud got into it on the 91 FWY and the CHP actually directed him where to go---the idiot following him right into a parking lot with six CHP cruisers in it and another pulling in from across the street blocking the exit. CHP comes up after a while, tells my friend "This guy is lit up, we have your statement you can go. He's not leaving here in that vehicle..." But for the record, nothing wrong or illegal with what he was doing. You can do the same. It all comes down to who has the police report filed first.

Vapor Locked it twice on the way to and from the Post Office....NOT HAPPY!

Actually, considering the completeness of the kit they supply, along with a nice Japanese 50MM manifold and not some dodgy Lynx or Piper that is pretty cheap. You will spend that much for TWM Stuff that isn't as big, and more!

They are out to get you...

Those the EFI-Speed ITB's? With the tapered bores.... They look familiar!

Dipstick is referenced from the distance from the oil pan flange downwards to operating level. So "Yes" But in many applications (like drag racing) they will run stock fill so they don't run up against any windage on the crank from sloshing. VW's were like this with larger sumps---all the oil was in the sump and never came up into the original oil sump area---2.5-5 qts all below "empty line" But that really isn't the suggested use of this particular pan. There the 8qts will bring you to "the full mark"

Yeah, ITBs and EFI make those big ports amazingly docile when you use Alpha-N or Blend Program on the ECU to idle at 900rpms like a street car...but it kinda barks when you goose it, eh?

You are monitoring your oil pressure through a large-bore hose and mechanical gauge, right? Stick a 5psi Hobbs Pressure Switch in your turbo-oil feed (opens at 5psi) and connect a BIG ORANGE LIGHT (LED is BETTER!) to ground through it (power off ACC relay.) You will be amazed how low your oil pressure gets in turns while most oil pressure gauges merrily show 'just a little drop'... An LED Trailer Light works great, right on the dash. I lunched my turbo at the Auto-X at MSA one year. ... It does happen!

Where in Riverside? I'm out near Woodcrest, south of Van Buren on Wood / Barton...

" But on a L28 they are for drag race only power from 6000 to 10000 with 50mm carbs or itb." OK, if that Drag Strip is 8 miles long and covered in salt... I actually have some heads ported by one of the Top Porters in Japan in the late 80's early 90's which sound a lot like your P90, 40mm at the head flange... yeah, 50mm Solexes all the way on that baby! (Or, this special turbo setup I know of... )

Kali--what were you quoted to ship your car to Port of LA / Oakland / SEA-TAC / New Orleans / Houston / Bayonne??? It shouldn't have been more than $3500 if you loaded it into a container. Damn dude, you should have PM'd me, I probably could have hooked you up with a Shipper there... or a lo-cost agent to store the car for a year while you saved up the funds. You could have kept your Z for less than what it's going to run you for the Hachiroku. Now I'm bummed! (My S30 was shipped close to 6 months after I left Okinawa, I was actually able to change my shipping point from Bayonne to San Pedro/Port of LA saving about $600 at the time.)

I try to explain that to people, there is a 50 manifold, a 45, and in the JDM a 40 as well! It can be baaad porting because you grabbed one and didn't realize it! Those 50mm Manifolds are monsters!

you don't always hear detonation, and it will beat out your bearings bigtime. VW's do that when they run lean at the top end. We would never go more than 25 runs with the high compression motor without checking the bearings. When the Olberg came out it was a godsend! Used it EXACTLY like you are! When you start seeing flecks on the screen, time for a refresh. Fatten it up, look for the other signs of detonation...

I'm on an island in the Coral Sea... Getting ready to travel back to the USA. If I don't respond for the next four days, you now know where I am at as well!

So what do you think about that shorter Mikuni Manifold, mate? How do you like it, and have you done tests against the other majors out there like Piper, Lynx, Cannon? Carbies look beaut!

Agree with JC---you duct TO wheel wells, not FROM! For all this effort, why don't you externally mount it, and take slipstream off the roof like a Supermarine Spitfire? Then you can move your differential, transmission, and Water-Air Intercooler water-side cooler into that area occupied by the rear window, ducted from the quarter windows like JC Suggests... But I warn you, you're starting to make a car that might look a lot like one of mine!

You haven't used the product, and don't know what is being sold, why are you hanging on to this so hard? Seriously, 3A on the city lights socket (BA9 Based Bulb) is not a big deal. For christ's sake look up wire ampacities and see what you can do with wire sizing to keep it below the insulation rating of even automotive grade insulation temperatures. No, you can't run 130W H4's on the stock wiring through the switch (for long)---you will fry stuff. 3A on a 16 gauge wire? To a metal socket with a Bakelite base and brass contacts? Are you REALLY SERIOUS???? Puh-LUEASE!

Standard Glossary of Terms and Definitions is in the front of every engineering paper so this kind of made-up terminology doesn't happen. There are standards for terminology. AS are there for Dyno tests! My point was that a RWHP number is NOTHING more than that, there is NO WAY to 'estimate' the flywheel horsepower UNLESS the chassis dyno you have is very specially calibrated according to engineering standards regarding the relationship between what you measure at the wheels and what would be produced under an SAE J-Spec'd Dynamometer running an SAE J-Spec'd BHP Test. And if this is the case, chances are it reads out in BHP and states the SAE J-Spec that the testing conforms to.... Without reference to the conforming SAE Spec used when running the dyno test...it's an advertising, salesman's number worth nothing more than the integrity of the guy boasting about it. Give me one with an SAE J-Spec and I'll pay attention to it. Because numbers can differ, doesn't mean they will. When you are fast and loose with Dyno numbers throwing in 'correction factors' and 'estimates' they become ABSOLUTELY USELESS. The change in the L28E HP reflects refining of the ENGINE DYNO TEST PROCEDURE AND SPECIFICATIONS---nothing more! It remained practically the same to the rear wheels when it was rated at 170 BHP as when it was rated at 142. A chassis dyno, on the other hand, running say---eddy current, would have shown the same range of 89-103Kw (120-140 HP---the normal range you see with stock L28's) to the rear wheels. Engine dyno numbers are USELESS without knowing what spec they were performed under. Saying "170 BHP" means absolutely nothing. Saying "170 BHP per SAE 179J Specification" means that there is a way to TRACE THE FORMULATION OF THAT NUMBER. IT can be REPLICATED. I think Ford learned a little bit about this a couple of years back when salesmen and marketing got some people PPO over HP Claims that were virtually unsupportable. What is more true to say is that generally there is very little correlation to BHP and performance, whereas RWHP generally is correlated directly with many aspects of performance evaluation. Newer Engine Horsepower Test Specifications are more and more 'true' to giving you an Horsepower Number you can relate to actual corresponding performance. The more they refine the specification, the closer that number comes to being directly reflected in a chassis dyno test. Many have gotten upset that my L28E spun a RWHP number of 147 "That's higher than the factory had it at the Flywheel"---maybe true, but production variance and proper tuning can make SIZEABLE differences in what you will see on EITHER an Engine or Chassis Dyno. What it's "Rated" at is for a production engine, with production tolerances, put together on a production line. That can change spectacularly on older engines like this with proper assembly and fitting of the exact same components. As for FWD being weak...wellll it DOES have the advantage usually having less driveline losses. So unless you're driving a VW Beetle or P-Car, chances are the exact same engine, running through a RWD setup, and a FWD setup...well, the RWD would be the one that show up as "weak"!

John gets the prize for the FRP hood observation---with that undebelly skid pan, even airborne the air gets compressed in the engine bay and has to find a way out. On a car with no undertray, when you jump it, an FRP Hood will close back up as the air pressurized under the car looses one wall of containment (the roadway) and the lift under the hood drops.

I'm with Mike---after the release broke on my 73, I double-hooked another cable (used one of those PTO Engagement Cables for a small tractor---overkill to the max, but suggested to me by an oldtimer who has one as an emergency backup to his shaved door handles on his 70 240Z AND on his 51 Mercury (yeah, he's been hotroddin' a while...) The PTO cable is plenty long to place it up behind the bumper which is a nice place to hide it. Shorter Choke-Style Cables can go there, or in the wheel well for emergency release. And frankly, I've found myself using the 'emergency release' more regularly because I don't have to open the door!

Normally, they are. What's your point? Have you looked at a Y2K Nissan Frontier with 65W 9007 Lights? What gauge are those headlight leads? If you are running relays and not back through the archaic ground linked switch on the column.....(even if you are... I didn't relay my car till 2004!) Smaller gauge wire than what I got from John in 95 for my 'city lights'...

There is a method for my madness... Been there, static probed that!

PM me an e-mail address. I recently transferred my old Iomega drive to this new shockproof travel drive, and I believe all the photos from that first shipment are on it. I can e-mail them to you. I've got maybe one more day in the office here, so the sooner the better! I will be back to the old schedule soon enough and then I can barely keep up with e-mail much less anything else!

Leon X2 That percentage is slightly beyond where you can see the transfer ports above the top of the throttle plates. Somewhere between 15 & 30% open. Open it past there and if you are on a dyno looking down the throat you can see the gas starting to come out of the booster venturi.