Tony D

The "obviously malfunctioning thermostat" is overstressing it... If someone has drilled that 2mm bleed hole into the 160 thermostat, doesn't have the back of the block bypass line utilising only the internal block recirculation line and has efficient combustion with low thermal load.... That little 2mm burp hole just may vermouth to keep the engine from warming up. I don't see appreciable flow my radiator at cold startup idle. Sure, a thermostat held open when ALL the bypass lines are recirculating to the pump inlet to warm the engine might not warm up. Bit cap those bypasses and only keep the internal 8-10mm line and maybe one through the turbo? Perfectly sealed thermostat with that 2mm hole may make warmup at idle speed quite difficult indeed. But the solution is obvious: test Yhe thermostat see if it works/seals... If it does, come back, report, and boisterously gloat with satisfaction ad the experts get upset and tell you that you must be missing something else...or that it's just plain impossible!

Yep, it ain't rocket science. Actually, if you have one of the Caswell home plating kits, you got most of what you need. I was taking manifolds (headers for example) de rusting them via this method, and then directly plating them for storage.

It is a very rare thing indeed when a properly installed filter and base gasket "blows out" without bulging the filter housing. They mak an aluminium ring that makes the o-ring on the filter base "blowout proof", as well. You have EXCESS oil pressure. That tells me the PUMP is pumping just fine. As Josh surmises, maybe a relief valve is doing something...but is the filter housing bulged? If not, with a PH8A, then it's installation. As mentioned above, putting the bearings in can block galleries... But it should wreck in short order. It was running "fine" before as stated, sosomething is missing. Not in flow production (pump), but in flow restriction engine. Assuming proper filter installation, that is..,

Even when I "know" I usually still measure. Why nix the dust cap? If you are 1/2-3/4 engaged relative to the spline length, you are fine. There is no real axial movement like on a live axle car.

I've 225+K on mine, put one sender in, then another shortly thereafter. Apparently the senders freak out if the engine isn't totally warm and you slug it with colder oil and pressures above the range of the transmitter (which mine still will do, at 6500) Hot, maybe 75-85# at that same rpm. Shows effectively nothing at idle. A mechanical gauge is your friend in this case.

How that work for the fume issue? Looks about 1m short to be classified true Bozuka... Maybe glorified rice... Hehehe

Or you could have fittings for the manifold cut 1/8 NPT on one end with a 10 or 14 mm o-ring end on the other like the back side of an o-ring injector and then your manifold log fits just like it dies on top of injectors... That short enough?

0.034" is quite a bit different than 0.003" BHJ is an alternative, or ATI. or a try again at MSA...

Rebuilt engine with new super doopet racing pump springs? Stack of shims in there locking it up? I'm with the last, this is easily checked without shotgunning a pump at it and possibly causing more issues. Sounds like the pump is fine... Why replace it?

I replied on your other thread. The 1/8" NPT holes will accept a fitting with a 1/4" diameter through-hole and 5/16" barb if you can find them (like I did)...

I just shipped my Mikuni Manifold off and was reminded that I had barbs with a FULL 1/4" inside diameter hole in them (and used 5/15" fuel line), which fit on the stock Mikuni 1/8 NPT tapped holes in the manifold. It went to a -6 runner, but it will now be a -8 to better modulate pulsation for installation of the MAP sensor.

"Other than that, the 78 door will attach to the 74 hinges and fit in the opening. Been done many times." Do you have any photos of this conversion? I swear the inner panel of the 78 door is about 1.5-2" longer as it's a captive internal latch that the striker goes into, as opposed to pre-6/76 doors which are 'shorter' in this area due to having an exposed latch with the catchplate on the B-Pillar.

Mentos and Coke Zero... (Google it, prototypes exist!)

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Why couldn't you?

cool, like groovy man!

Unique... TDI from a BMW or VW...

Makes me feel like Cold Ethyl...

Those are aftermarket parts supplied through alternate sources...

Yep, the late S31 series cars (75-78 280Z's) weren't light. The 79 Standard ZX was actually a lighter car! But the weight got packed on fast in the ZX. My 1976 FAIRLADY Z 2/2 weighed in at SanAntonio Dragway with 255# me inside it at 2695#, putting the car at 2440# without me and a full tank of gasoline. If it's 2965# (as some have suggested) then I have a 200+ RWHP Stock L28 because the car was running all night long (26 passes in all) at 15.50-15.60 at 88-89+ mph...

center section was always branded Garret AirResearch. the scrolls were the Nissan-Specific Parts.

"If not please spoon me..." It's all in the appropriate section, spend some time here reading, your questions are all answered.

BTW, an 83 ZXT can be quite a pig, over 3000# depending on drivers weight... A 73 240 is not the lightest but with some early model doors and suitably bumpered, 2400 is pretty easy to do. My Full-Weight 73 240Z was a pig with my swinish countenance in it, and 100+ in the 1/4 was not difficult at all without an intercooler and some basic old-school tweaks. The ZXT the donor engine came from seemed to struggle to break 80-85 before the swap. The 240 was alive compared to the ZXT. and it came further alive once I got the 3.70 into it later on... The 240 still had the 3.36 gears at that time!

Yep, a 240Z with some attention paid to weight and a stock L28ET suitably attended to (some more boost, not necessarily an intercooler) is easily a 13 second car. 12's is possible. Very possible.

Coupe or 2+2? it makes a difference. Hope you two are on the same page circumventing the classifieds...

LOL, that is about what it looked like on the expressway, too. Looks much worse in the slow mover! Hehehehehe