Tony D

Bo, do you plan on using the Tunercat program to disable functions in the GMECU, or are you going standalone? My bud loves his Tunercat, and the robustness of the GM ECU (along with the great learning routines of short and long-term fuel loop tuning) make for a very attractive combination! He put a 94 Mill in a 74 Camaro, and Tunercat was his solution to gearing, tire size, disabling O2's, PCM tweaking... Everything! Did I mention my office is off Pathfinder in Diamond Bar? I thought you were in south-county more!

My name is Bo, I look for things to make me Go!

THAT is the reason for the Z32 fork! There ARE different height collars, if you order a complete clutch kit from AZ or some of them, they will come with the collar. I have a 78 Coupe throwout collar on my 73 240Z with an L28ET and 83 ZX N/A five speed. This '2+2' collar everybody seems to think exists in reality is just an L28 Five Speed Collar. It's installed Cover Diaphragm Height that dictates collar length. Someone should really measure it referenced from either flywheel face or crankshaft pilot bushing area and cross it to the appropriate collar length. That way, with a depth mic you can take two measurements and know it will work BEFORE assembling it. Or by measuring your installed diaphragm finger height referenced off the crankshaft, know which collar to order. If you see a stock L24 and stock L28 assembly, you will see the height difference in diaphragm height, and the length of the TO Collar will start making sense.

I like "Left" and "Right" referring to mounting. Probably because I have LHD and RHD cars, 'drivers side' to me means two things (which means nothing at all!)

Come to think of it, my Sony Disc camera crapped out after 3 years... And that was after I found out my camera was "too old" to employ their disc-to-memory stick adapters so I was constantly swapping floppies. Reminded me of my Amiga. So for work the point-and-shoot Nikon got the nod. Same software since 2004, and that camera is still employed knockaround for really dirty stuff.

One day we will have to endure someone in a hybrid or diesel and chase them for 400+ miles... At the end of that we DESERVE to see the guy get whacked just for pre-empting Jerry Springer!

Pull the hood, front bumper, and radiator and sit cross-legged in front of it...like working at a bench, perfect height!

Frankly for me the decision was predicated on the fact that I had probably $4000 in lenses for an existing SLR (actually, two bodies...) So even though my point-and-shoot is a Nikon P7000, my DSLR is a Pentax same as all my existing lenses. Now they are old, and don't auto-focus, but I'm new to the DSLR thing and never used autofocus SLR's so no skin off my nose. I didn't like that the mirror didn't have SLR-Like split prism and used a 'contrast meter' for focusing. Eventually over the course of several years I got a long lens, intermediate, and wide angle---Pentax sized their basic DSLR lens range to overlap with zooms so you can get away with only three from fisheye to long telephoto. Not the fastest lenses, but if I need a 400mm F2.8 for shooting long range fast-motion, I have one from the SLR and I just manually focus. You are probably fine just sticking with what you have... Chances are in 2 years the bodies will come down in price and you will either stick with what you have or upgrade. Whichever brand you go with, just make sure the bodies in the pro range are compatible with the lenses you buy now. Bodies come and go...lenses seem to last forever! Though my SLR is now...uh...31 years old and still works great. My only regret on THAT purchase was when I lived in Japan I didn't buy the LX to go with it.

We are calloused, vicious individuals not touched by any empathy for the gentleman in the video. Yes, yes we are. We are Engineers... See you in hell for our common lack of sympathy for that stupid bastard!

Some like the Z32 Throwout Arm as it's constructed from thicker sheetmetal in the stamping, but otherwise dimensionally identical to the L-Engine unit. The collar from any late five speed should work---I know of no "2+2" collar, only late L28...

Well, the price of groceries IS outrageous! I would think the statement of obvious fact would be deadpan, and the statement about groceries would reflect righteous indignation of the travesty occurring. I mean "Point a gun at a cop, you die." Seems obvious to me.

"Powertrain" - "Powertrain Subforums" - "L6" PITA even for ME!

I'd love to, but public nudity is frowned upon here...

Yeah, that was the one where the TV Choppers learned to PAN WIDE when they stopped! All sorts of hulabaloo because it was live at the time, and you saw the guy get whacked on daytime TV. I think personally it's a nice deterrent. Unfortunately all the reruns eliminated that portion...when he got out and started walking, the cut the clip.

disconnecting it will let the gate flap wide open and you will get no boost. Add tension to the rod, or wire it shut and make a quick burst of WOT...by 2200 you should have boost, and by 3000 you should likely surge the compressor at over 21psi (if the turbo is working and the wastegate is truly shut)... A restrictive exhaust may be causing some issues, no information on that end (stock, modified, potatoes stuck in the outlet, etc...)

I've located a complete early 260Z and would like to salvage some parts off of it for use on my Series I s30. My s30 has the bumper brackets off a 72 or 73. Solid steel brackets that mount to the "frame" rails and curve up to hold a thin bumper. The bumper end has two bolts and a steel tube about 2 inches long and 1.5 inches in diameter between the bolts. Would the stock 260 bumpers bolt to this bracket? Those are 73 Brackets, the mounts on the 260 are flat with a four bolt flange for the shocks, and are mounted out a bit further. I don't think it's a direct bolt-on, but it may be modified. Are the fenders interchangeable? Yes, though the 260 may have an inner fender of plastic to keep splash off the back of the light bucket---it all mounts to the unit body, though, and doesn't affect the fender. They pretty much bolt right on anything from 69-78 all the improvements were carried on the chassis. The cabin is locked, so I can not get in underneath the dash to inspect the heater/ac evaporator..... so I really don't know if the heater/evaporator are mounted as in the 280Z.. The controls are not easily seen, but appear to be the 280Z style dash and console. Sounds like an ARA or Frigi-King and in that case is VERY similar to the 240Z. They will have MANUAL controls in the heater control head. If it was a port or dealer option added according to the FSM it would have the vacuum actuated controls same as a 280Z (or as an RHD Fairlady Z with A/C, but lets not go there!) If you can see the evaporator under the dash, the attachment is the same as aftermarket units for the 240. At this moment, I have a 208z condenser that bolts up perfectly to the 240z: but, the "in" and "out" connections are on opposite sides of the unit. This works well in the sense that the unit can be clocked allowing the two sides to be switched from driver's side to passenger's side. However, the best of all arrangements would be to have the compressor, dryer and all lines to run on the passenger car side and to use a refurbished dealer installed ARA or similar unit. If the a/c unit is the same as the dealer installed ARA type, then I'll pull it, clean it, paint it, and use it. Pretty much, you have to shine a light into that passenger's footwell! If you have rubber hoses and the same ARA Style accumulator, chances are high it's a universal ARA and not the one that used the in-dash evaporator and vacuum operated controls. John's Cars a/c compressor is designed for 280Zs and is mounted on the driver's side. The price is right for his kit; but, I would prefer to keep everything on the passenger car side. I have helped do at least one car where we put the compressor from a 280Z and used it to drive the system on an ARA unit---the hoses were no problem to have made, it's nice to not have it around the fuel pump...and that Sanden is head and shoulders more efficient than the popper York unit! I have found a bracket that mounts a Sanden sd 7 compressor on the passenger side of an Gen III (LS1 and such) engine with an overhand of, perhaps 1 inch, beyond the valve covers. I am 99% certain this would work to fit a Sanden on the passenger side. Look here for a photo. At over $2k for the complete set up in billet, I won't be buying this anytime soon, but the bracket mount looks to be simple to clone. I really don't see any reason a spare York bracket couldn't be modified to accept a Sanden...they have multiple bolt patterns. There is a kit that put the York under the intake manifold, on the left side of the car. They were used a lot in Japan. I know that Vintage and others are out there, but I really would like to keep all my controls as stock appearing as possible. Makes it period-correct at least! Make sure no leaks between FRP Evap Housing and the air door inlet on the uptake for the heater on the 240---that's where the leaks occur and shoot the efficiency all to hell! After making a 3/4" thick foam gasket for mine, I had no issue getting 37F Center-Register in my 260Z with an old ARA system recharged with 'conversion oil' and R134! I could maintain 70F interior temperature going across Iowa at 103F ambient, doing 110mph and watching the water temperature stay right there at 170F!!! They will work, you just have to make sure there are NO leaks around that evaporator to suck hot air back into the system when on A/C. Speaking of hot air, I will shut up now! G

There are some who say one of those posted photos should be my avatar...

Open bleeder to atmosphere only resulting in 8psi of boost in the plenum signifies to me a weak spring in the wastegate and the inability for it to close and direct exhaust flow through the turbine instead of around it... Have you done anything like the redrilling of the actuator arm to tighten up the spring preload yet? I mean if you outright disconnect the thing it should boost, but a 't' may still allow boost to blow through and displace the wastegate diaphragm.

I will add I was VERY fond of the Buganado conversion. At first glance, like the one in the magazine...it looked like a Baja Bug which hadn't had the ends chopped off. And it sounded 'kind of funny'...

Then putting the whole Oldsmobile Toronado 455 Drivetrain midship in a Beetle is not a good thing? Same magazine had a feature on that back in 79 or 80, and it was the inspiration for me and my friends first V8 conversion...since rusty Toranados were around $250, and Rusty Bugs were around $50 at the time (seriously!) figuring you needed to make a cradle and frame anyway.... It was a heluva great project. It led to a more civilized 'store boughten' conversion kit for my buddy and his Corvair...Otto-Parts Corv-8 and an old Corvette 327... That was WAY easier than the Buganado. Then again, the Corv-8 came about because we kept detonating to death the turbo engine we had put in his 69 Corvair...just put in a built 140 for daily driving, and went to the Corv-8 for the weekend insan-o ride. Nothing has changed, just the metal we choose to wrap around what we got laying around the yard!

Where is the wastegate reference point and vacuum/boost gauge reference point...if the WG still at the turbocharger, and the BG at the intake plenum any piping or volume change will result in less observed boost. You have the same at the turbocharger, but the piping losses are greater. As for boost controller, a bit too vague to diagnose as we don't know how it was hooked up, what you EXACTLY did, or anything other than to say "the boost controller is the issue" and possibly "your boost gauge is reading wrong"... More specific information would help to pin it down more...

Don't eat em man! Get a kiddy pool and raise your own. They like corn meal. But as a Michigander, I'll never admit to how I know this! Good to see you are back in business Pete. What of the "Ford" injectors---they were 10mm as I recall. You said you had a rail setup for them at one time--still have that pattern?

Love the name of the car. You sir are a genius! You should see my 'blue turd'... Did I mention you were a genius in choosing that name?

Check out my old "Page 4" at Cardomain for more information and explanation. Forgot all about it... In this one I'm showing how to eliminate the T/B heater circuit and simply keep the AAR heated. I did it all with 'straight' fittings and cut up molded heater hoses from A-Z. Tony's Bypass Line Link Cheers!

"Damascus Flares" Using an oxy torch to do any joinery is a dying art, and that is really a shame as you can do so much with it! I did all my I/C piping with Oxy-Acetylene simply because it's what I had. People couldn't tell the difference