Tony D

Actually depending on the size of your injectors, and if you are batch fired or alternating bank, what indeed may be happening is that due to the RAPID drop of fuel pressure in the header when all your injectors fire, you get 'flash vaporization'... then getting that gasseous fuel out of the rail can be a total beyotch! Jeff didn't have that issue, but he found an accumulator that REALLY kept his fuel pressure steady at idle while those big 720's were banging away at idle. I think the fuel pressure on my precision gauge was dropping from 36 to like 20 when they fired! That's one atmosphere drop...that's enough to precipitate formation of gas pockets in your fuel. This may also be a consideration. You can try to go to 'alternating' to keep the pressure drop less by firing half the injectors each time, or consider putting a pulsation dampner/accumulator onto the fuel rail. I think JeffP put the information on the one he found on his Anglefire website. I think you're on the right track, but it's not IAT that is your problem, it's either solely your fuel temperature rising, or that combining with a pressure drop during injector firing events.

Your fuel is changing states in the rail, you need to run a return line, and make SURE you aren't going under load on the roadway with less than 1/4 tank of fuel. JeffP was warned about this on the dyno by yours truly. It's in the archives here as well. The density change of the FUEL is what is killing you. Air correction density is not that bad, but the fuel BTU content that changes in fuel that is 58F and that is 140+F is PHENOMENAL! Jeff was experiencing the EXACT same thing because Mr. Cheap-Arse would only put 5 gallons of C16 in the car at any one time. Started out nice and cool on the first run. Second run the car was leaning. THIRD run the car was all over the place! EXACTLY like what you are seeing 17:1 at idle where on first run it was more like 13.8!!! Fuel in the tank went from 60F to 140 in about 20 minutes of idling and two or three passes on the dyno. If you want a more permanent solution, find one of those small power steering coolers, flush it well, and put it in the airstream of the fender well (well protected from rocks) then run your return line through it. You will be AMAZED how much more consistent your idle AFR's will be after cooling the fuel on the way BACK to the tank! It picks up a LOT of heat in the engine bay, and if you are running a return-less fuel system without a way to monitor fuel temperature and pressure (Like the BOSS EFI Systems do...) you're asking for these kinds of problems.

Seriously, I have to ask a question here because this mentality is confounding me: Are the requirements in BC so stringent that they are making you pass MODERN emissions levels to get your 'collector plates'? This is the only eventuality that I would see to require fitment of a catalyst to 'pass emissions'---even in the state of California with notoriously stringent limit levels (a recent example cited: 4% CO in one state, same car in CA was allowed 1.5% CO, 400PPM HC and only 220ppm in CA), you still should pass using the OEM Equipment in the car from time of manufacture. Does the intellectual exercise involved tell anybody else slapping a cat on a car to pass emissions which uses empirical testing data as the pass-fail criteria smack of band-aid, and denote the logical and quick failure of the installed catalytic device? Subjective criteria like 'cabin smells' is one thing, but hard testing data... for a 73? This was a car which never had a catalyst, and shouldn't need one to pass. Non-USA Specs for a 73 are HUGE you could drop gasoline on a pan over the exhaust manifold with an eyedropper and have a throttled opening aspirating the vapors and still pass! (Well, that may be an exaggeration...) Or is this a converted car with a later engine which once was catalyzed and now is only residing in a 73 Chassis?

Thin tubing welded distorts and moves flanges John? Say it isn't so! You will only make the mistake once...

Any particular reason for not using the threads to pull them in? In my example I didn't even get to 80ft-lbs and they were pulled all the way up. If you're not exceeding the torque of the road wheel, what's the reason for not doing it?

As to Pete's question about Turbos---it's BGT then, "Blown GT" and the speeds increase accordingly. As a coupe running in GT you are allowed engine swaps, so anything Nissan made can go in there except a Diesel...that would put you in "Diesel Class" which has possibilities as well with what Willie Essing is doing to the Navara DI3.0Z Engines!

Didn't watch the You-Tube, but the DVD? It's comparable to most period motion pictures shot on 35mm or 16mm rigs in the field.

Never Say Never John! Our El Mirage competition the year we took the points championship was an XO/BFCC combination running a blower and Hilborn Injection on a Flathead IN A PINTO! We are the automotive anachronisms: Land Speed. Where else can you see a Buick Straight-8 and Offy Indy from 1929 still in active competition? No, we DON'T have anything better to do, come to think of it... But even at that level of competition, I don't know any of the flathead guys who are doing Singh-Grooved Cylinder Heads.

Bernardd beat me to it, and I was about to mention the MAF does a far better job of actually measuring air at idle and compensating with proper pulsewidth. Remember, the differential is really only 200CC's of displacement, WELL within even a basic O2 sensor trim capability. The VG 3.0 at idle is flowing only slightly more than the 2.8...and the MAF/O2 sensor will more than take care of it. The turbo isn't operating all the time---people forget a turbocharged car is N/A for the first couple thousand RPMs and at most conditions below 80mph anyway. I have a 280ZXT with a hollow turbo...runs just fine. Same goes for a 300ZXT---no different. I strongly doubt it will run rich...if it does, it was running rich on the 3.0 as well. Mass air flow is mass air flow. Displacement within 10% of total capacity is irrelevant. (AND...if I can take a 164CID AND 145CID Corvair engines and put 'dumb' 280Z EFI onto it and it doesn't run rich with that terrible AFM system... The sophisticated MAF should handle your simple swap with aplomb.)

The truck V8s work well in the S30 Chassis, and the use of the Z32 Box makes installation fairly painless. The SCORE 5.6L trucks (with the oem wet sump!) were making well over 700HP at 8200 rpms, delivery of power looked identical to a cammed L6. Very impressive. The smaller 4.5's are all over the place here in SoCal as wrecks, and if they take to mods like the Truck 5.6 (pistons and bumpsticks, remap the ECU and go racing...) it could be 'relatively' economical. They sound nasty on the start line! But don't get illusions the L-Tranny will stand up to it. Just do the conversion to the Z32 box and it should handle anything you throw at it for these purposes. Hell, they even got a decent autobox available....

I believe one of the IRL original formulas was 4.0 or 4.5L, and later went to 3.5. Either way, they were making between 600-718hp as I recall. I know it punched that G35 to over 200, as well as the bigger car the year before!

Oh, foolish me, I bought the DVD...

Knowing someone who works at Briggs & Stratton, when mentioning the aforementioned experimenter...they did do some testing, but there was more they needed, and his development didn't get them where they needed to be so it was left with him. Which goes to John C's comment about all the other engine manufacturers... S. Singh has some interesting developments. But they are ONLY applicable to areas of the world where advanced engine control and emissions are not a concern. 20% increase on a Flathead, that IS something, and I'd not dismiss it. But what works on one engine design doesn't necessarily prove beneficial on another design. Not a lot of advantage for the claims put forth in the end.

Why on earth use the stock 40+ year old harness with a new ECU? Methinks you are asking for troubles you wouldn't otherwise have. A new harness for the MS runs about $65 plus vehicle specific terminations.

Uh, yeah, "letitsnow" has it correct: without an I/C you are going to have WAY more heat. "CAI" on a turbo car will have VERY little effect on discharge temperature, the I/C is far more important. Running 25psi on the dyno, never got above 45C on pulls. On the engine dyno, making runs in the 18 psi range for 5 minutes at a stretch the approach as given by the RTD's on the bench was less than 10C (meaning air temps out of the I/C were within 10C of Ambient.) What you should be concerned with is 'approach temperature' as this tells you about your cooler efficiency. A raw number discarding pressure and ambient is useless.

I think there is nothing special about the L20A rod, 133 or 130 same as the others. But we put L20B rods in our L20A... For which I am holding new Nissan Head Gaskets, purchased and delivered to the hotel on Friday past!

Why would it run rich?

"E" Class, "G" is 2.0 Liter. The McMeekin Brothers run that Olds Aurora engine, the "G" that ran up there (#4500) was running a comparable Nissan IRL engine with the biggest K&N air filter I've ever seen! I think they then swapped it over to the Red G35 they ran the next year. That was one of those "$1 Engine Deals" from what I understand. You may want to call Frank Honsoweitz at Ed Pink Racing Engines and see if he knows anybody with an old 4 Liter Nissan IRL engine for sale (or laying around gathering dust!) Biggest RB I know of currently is 2.8L, or the 3.0's from Australia with the head exchanged to DOHC. I'm happy, I came back Saturday with three brand-new Nissan OEM L20E Head Gaskets! (For that "G" Engine we have apart right now.) I thought about you at the Swap Meet as there was a complete induction set from a Drag Car for sale, triple 50mm ITB's, on matching manifold, with rail, injectors, pump, Haltec E6A, MSD 7 Timing Computer, and Kameari CAS Conversion Distributor. If it wasn't 3AM your time I would have called!!!

So when will you give me the free set of crappy flat tops?

Pull WHAT hub? The fronts are no more involved than a rotor exchange. The rears... no hub removal required either, if you put some thought into it! Clickety-Click for Hubless Long Stud Installation

That's why they put lights in the garage... I would go to sleep around 6pm, right after dinner, then wake up and work on the car from midnight to 6AM, take a shower, have breakfast, then drive to work! Believe it or not, it kept my weight down for some reason.And I got a lot of work done, much to the chagrin of the neighbors at some point or another!

Sometimes, appearing in person on someone's doorstep with a Louisville Slugger and asking for 'clarification' is gratifying...

Been there, seen that!

Wrong State, sorry to say... I have the 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4" SWAGELOCK benders. Absolute JOY to use. Jeff P borrowed them from me to do his fuel system AND I'M STILL WAITING JEFF.....(hint hint! ) Seriously, the Swagelock benders are wonderful, they are also like $247 each. I know mine were, but hey it was for the US Navy, on the HOSPITAL SHIP Mercy, so I kinda felt justified in the purchase. To say I did awesome tubing would be bragging, and I don't like to brag...but...damn it looked nice. And in the end USN paid for it all, and I retained use of the benders for...uh..."Personal Usage" Oh, and the 37 degree tool....again compliments of the USAF on a DPDO sale of 'surplus tools' where I got a PALLET of tools (along with wall lockers and a freakin' copy machine!) for a whopping sum of $28... Little did I know that pallet included like 50 Snap-On inch-pound torquemeters. I was giving them away as gifts. I think Jeff has that one as well from his attempts at setting pinion crush sleeves on R200's.... Hey Jeff, where's my tools dude?

I know of at least one person who used BMW 3.0 liter engine ECU and all related components in his 240Z... for everyone looking on from the outside it looked like a Datsun System. Hell, I was the guy putting JECS ECU's into CORVAIRS in the late 70's and onwards. This was a VERY popular swap in the Corvair world to get EFI and remove the hassle of carburettors! But the technology is dated. The way I would put it is 'Apollo Technology'... Today you can buy 'Space Shuttle Technology' and directly attach it. So why bother with the older stuff? I mean if you are DEAD SET on using OEM components from some misdirected reliability thought...then this is all really old news. Guys who have been playing with EFI since the 70's (yeah guys, VW started mass production in 68, Datsun in 75... it's technology FAR older than most people think!) none of these parts swapping stories is anything new. STANDALONE (and more importantly MEGASQUIRT) changed the aftermarket world forever. No longer do you have to approximate and guess. You can tailor it EXACTLY. A Megasquirt V1.0 running the fuel only 8X8 tables will give superior drivability and equivalent emissions performance as a JECS box (with the added advantage of closed-loop operation which the first-gen JECS boxes didn't have!) The later versions incorporating 12X12 tables, fugabaoudit!