Tony D

My point was you made a comment, obviously without investigating what he suggested. (This is where I was going with the "dismissive.") Had you gone to the site he gave you, my post would not have been necessary (they go over what goes wrong, and how they address the failures so it doesn't happen again.) These are an OEM carb, and they were originally designed to be throwaway when necessary. When the bodies wore, you replaced the unit. The only viable alternative now is rebushing them (there are places back east who do Triumph and other English carbs, this repair/restoration is not new) Z-Therapy is the #1 Z-Car Carb source. Their prices are much more inline with 'our' marketplace than the markeplace you got the recommendation from... which was why I mentioned 'giving you a line'---he quoted based on what you would 'expect' from that shop. Personally I think it's far higher than required when Z Therapy will do a premier job (on your carbs, if you wish) and leave you plenty of $$$ for a specialist like Tony at AltZ, any of the Guys at Vincent Foreign, or Sunrize Z to dial them in like new. But as mentioned, Z Therapy gives you a nice video to show you how to do it yourself. It goes along the lines of 'teach a man to fish...' the more you know about it, the less chance you will be taken for a ride. Many times I've seen 'carb specialists' not get our Z stuff right. There are things (covered in the video) that point it out. When YOU know how to do it, even if you never do it yourself, you will KNOW if your stuff was done right. And finally, by 'aruging the finer points' it was relating back to voicing a desire to 'keep what you have'--had the site been read, you would know YOUR carbs can be sent in and returned to you...keeping them as you desired. That does seem to be a fine point to argue over---'wanting mine back'---when precisely that service was offered! That's where I was coming from. That you voice interest in the MCHH gives mixed signals, do you want the stock ones there, or not? I have seen regional/marque disparity in pricing before. I was made acutely aware when I started out and was privy to internal part coding at GM dealerships. It was there I found a $39 alternator for a Nova was the same one as one for a Caddy that was $249. Just a different box. The pricing you got IMO was 'for the box' and I think you came to the right place to ask if it was appropriate. I think you can see the consensus is, compared to what you will get from ZT, it's probably out of line for the market. Especially the L.A. market. If you were in the local Z Club they might be able to steer you to more local sources. "Los Angeles" in your location is a big area, so not knowing what precisely is your location it's difficult to give any more specific or closer 'installation specialists'... Good Luck.

"On all S30's they do a tailpipe test anyway, because the S30's never had a OBD1 or II port and certainly don't have the 03+ CAM port." "Oh and Classic Car insurance likely you'll prefer Modified car insurance. Basically the car gets much better insurance rates because you have to have the car be 18+ years old, and get an appraisal, and often must be garaged w/ a mileage limit." I would caution people outside California commenting like this. This is not applicable to California, and this is not correct information. CalSmog consists of a tailpipe and visual test. Having 'modified car insurance' from Haggerty gest you NOTHING according to the law Stravi mentioned. It has to be collector car insurance... Haggerty does not have mileage restrictions on some of their policies, they just stipulate 'pleasure use only' meaning they don't want you driving 12K miles a year in rush hour traffic to and from work daily. CARB expected most companies would put strict mileage limits on the vehicles to limit their pollution potential...D'OH! Haggerty screwed them on that, and it's good for us! If you want to go through ONLY the tailpipe test on the car, it has to be 35 model years old or older, and have collector car insurance on it. In some of the discussions/debate/floor discussion there was discussion that an additional requirement would be that the vehicles were registered with a Marque Club, or car club of some sort. Now think about this people: We have had catalysts on vehicles now for OVER 35 years. You would think in almost 40 years people would educate themselves on emissions, or upkeep of these devices. These systems are generally troublefree and maintenance is not that difficult. There really isn't a reason not to have the car pass. And with a reasonable tailpipe only test, this should be a breeze. There is no more of this 'oh you don't have XYZ under the hood, you FAIL!' (even though out the pipe in the back you are compliant. Living in CA the results of pollution controls has meant a far better quality of life than before their implementation. They have not been the downfall of performance automobiles, or the aftermarket that exists for performance modifications. The there is no reason on the face of the earth that a properly adjusted performance Z-Car shouldn't pass a tailpipe-only test (especially if it's tested to the original requirements for year of manufacture.)

The painter accepted the job, he was liable for custodial care of the vehicle. I would not let him off for the damages done to the vehicle, or at least the costs of repairs to the damages to restore it to what it was before you gave it to be painted. Most of the rust you see is chemically cleanable. You are correct on the rust in the window area. Pull the windshield and repair it, it does NOT mean you cut off a roof and replace the roof. That area is commonly corroded due to the drainage issues inherent in the windshield sealing design. You will either have to fab new pieces, weld in new sections from a donor, or if the corrosion is not all the way though remove all rust with blasting/chemical cleaning and put body solder over the rough sections. This is one of the rare portions on the car where body solder can be used, everywhere else is too thin! For celphone photos, those are damn nice! Chemical cleaning is your friend. Sanding ain't that great, it leaves oxidation behind.

" I would of never guessed that people trying to make a yellow would be causing a large risk." They aren't. Most of the red-light intersections have found this to be true. There is also an incidence of increased accidents at red light intersections...but due to the statistical questions asked, they don't get 'officially' related. The 'intersection' accidents stay the same, they may go down, but 'the road' shows an increase---they found people stopping short caused accidents, and since they are not in the intersection proper, they weren't counted or correlated to the redlight cam being installed. I think both ped Xwalks, and the lights should have countdown timers. I spend a lot of time outside the USA now, and wherever I see those lights they just make so much more sense. There is no mistaking "10", but looking up and seeing a green light and then seeing it turn yellow (some countries flash the light 5 seconds before the light changes...great if you look long enough to register a flashing light...) you never know exactly.

"No one is forcing you to share what you know, you are choosing to volunteer your time and share what you know to those who don't know. Please remember that." Indeed, please DO remember that. For more extensive research on the subject of those with knowledge taking their ball and going home, I'd suggest reading "Atlas Shrugged" by Ayn Rand. People will always have questions, to complain about the method in which someone taking the time to answer it (especially putting inference like 'high horsedeness' or malicious intent is the action of someone reading it. How such commentary relates to the thread in any constructive way is beyond my comprehension so maybe you can PM me for assistance with that, because such commentary doesn't belong in a thread where people are answering issues directly related to the question at hand. And you're absolutely right, nobody forces me to give away free knowledge. Apparently they DO suggest that I give it to them in some format they demand as being inoffensive, on a given RGL, or complying with many other conditions. Sorry, but to me, that smacks of terrible poor form. Either you are grateful for information provided, or you are not. These types of posts are, IMO, in the 'are not' column. You have the same choice not to read them, or comment on them, or not participate at all. When those without knowledge participate on a grand scale, without people with knowledge similarly participating, you have a situation like ZC.C. IF that is your intention...be careful what you wish for. At most, the people with knowledge will simply not respond. Then where is the O.P.? Or anybody else reading this thread? SE\eriously, think about what you are saying in this regard. Take it to a logical conclusion. Where is (as asked before) any terrible transgression? Or is this just an example of someone complaining for some P.C. ideal because they don't want their feathers ruffled by discussion on a topic that may contradict what their original thoughts were. The last several posts in this thread are totally useless, talking about people's sensitive feelings being hurt as opposed to the techincal discussion happening previously. That's how it started at ZC.C as well. You see how the moderation there turned out. Nothing technical has been discussed here, as such this thread is ended IMO. It's now being dragged in to the mud with emotional baggage of posters with an agenda I can't understand. I've poorly done my part in proffering a response I should not have done...but like suggested "nobody is forcing me." I can survive without responding just fine.

Rossman: "yes" If there is a single small external bypass for pre thermostat opening curculation within the block, that passage can be blocked. Most of the guys here are running a turbocharger which has water cooling---a 10mm line which is more than large enough. The previous arrangement was two 8mm's usually... NewZed: "The closest I recall was a report of producing equal, sharp, "sudden onset" detonation across all cylinders." That would be opposed to the consistent detonation across the hottest rear cylinders previously. Or the runaway temperatures at the rear of the engine, as opposed to a consistent temperature at hte Thermostat Housing compared to the CHT monitoring point. Stock the CHT reads 20F or so higher...and that's 'indicated'---you can't go by Thermostat outlet temperatures, that was one of the first things mentioned in the thread. The monitor point for tne engiine water temperature should be CHT, and when you concentrate on decreasing CHT, you result in even temperatures across the whole engine, without the disparity present in the stock engine. Throughout the thread it was mentioned that it wasn't audible detonation that killed you, it was the stuff you didn't hear. By getting a consistent temperature, the tendency to detonate in 4/5/6 first (inaudibly) is greatly reduced. Some may see it as you characterize it above if they push it beyond the point where mixture/combustion chamber design/octane will support smooth combustion. It was happening there before but only in the hottest cylinders at the back. Comprende?

"Never ascribe to malicious intent that which otherwise can be attributed to simple ignorance." Tony D's Law I never torched anybody who didn't flash-flash-torch me first. I would only flick my highbeams at the occasional high-beam on driver. But now that you mention it, on the same stretches of road (even though it's now 4 lanes + a full shoulder instead of two with no shoulder) there does seem to be a lot of people just barrelling along oblivious to the Highbeam Indicator on their dashboard...

Did you even look into the suggestion he gave you before you came up with that dismissive comment? There is nothing you will do to 'rebuild' the SU carb running rich that costs $625. I'd go into it, but you need to go to the Z-Therapy site and read on what their service entails. When these carbs run out of life, they run LEAN under partial load, and you richen the hell out of them to keep them running properly at partial throttle. I do not know "Tony at LA Carb" and before I went to him, I'd consider Tony at AltZ in Huntington Beach, or any of the guys at Vincent Foreign Car Service...hell even Art at Sunrize Z Service....all of them are Z-Specialists and know about your car, your carbs, and hell they may even give you a 'free diagnosis' that comes with a pricetag that will send their kids to college too. But I doubt it, they will at least explain to you what is going on rather than throw you a line... Oh, and the way you 'bring them back to spec' is you replace the bodies with new ones, because they wear out the bushing area in the body. Short of NEW NISSAN SU's (at the last I saw, over $2200 a set, if you could find them!) the practical alternative is Z Therapy and their bearing/rebushing service. As a guy who doesn't know about carbs, I might suggest you don't argue the finer points in what it will take to 'restore yours to spec' with guys who DO know carbs...

I have to say the explanations in the FSM for the 1994 Camaro were very informative. It really opened my eyes to how sophisticated the OEM's had become in response to the OBDII requirements. It is this architecture that the next generation of 'self tuning' aftermarket ECUs is based. They use that short term and long term fuel trim logic to reprogram the flash memory or put it in NVRAM on the chip so that the more you drive the car, the closer you get to a 'perfect' tune for that specific engine---then when a sensor fails you drive on a FAR better curve 'limp home' than the factory could EVER put together in a generic form. The OEM gets you close, the fuel trim and it's learning routines tailor the ECU to your specific engine. The key is the sensor failure though---you end up not toasting a cat like on the old systems because the new ECU's give a far more complete map and don't necessarily go 'rich safe' any longer. For us, the exciting thing is the aftermarket applications. After reading the GM FSM on the Camaro in preparation for using Tunercat on my buds 94 into 74 Camaro engine swap, I decided if I had a GM I'd keep the factory ECU and simply use a utility like Tunercat to tailor the GM ECU to what I needed it to do. The focus on 'switching' though is the key. It's a digital signal that can be interpreted (though I understand the WBO2's may be considered analog due to the 1-5VDV output) using a NBO2 you had a switched signal which is very hard to correct for with a PID loop---you tailor it to watch for the switch and then set your gain, etc to compensate and keep the fuel control out of Hysterisis. With a 1-5VDC signal porportional offset from time integral is easier to gauge as you have a larger scale, more resolution. The more resolution you have to go to your set target point, the easier it is to set up the gain and resets to precisely track quick transients. But this is more than I want to talk about when dealing with mixture control. I just spent four days on a system with no capacitance and a machine 4X as large as it needs to be with only a 30% turndown possiblity...and was tuning it's PID lopops to respond to demand swings AND keep it under a given MW/Day power consumption figure. I kinda fell short. The loops could not be tuned fast enough given the hardware. Back to the drawing board. REV3 coming up... And I'll be on the plane again...

one with 'classic car insurance'... That is what the law says, it's not what the insurance company says, it's what insurance you have on the car.

How about this possibility: You only ran the car for a little while during it's down time. You loaded up the exhaust system with condensation that now will only burn off after you make a long hard run down the highway for an exended period and get the whole exhaust system up to operating temperature. No engine repairs necessary at all. That, or as mentioned, the modulator loaded up the intake with ATF and it has to burn off... Either way, a long hard drive on the freeway will tell. Remember in cold weather (which we don't get a lot of in CA) condensation will be visible in an idling car, and much worse when first started than once up to full operating temperature. This is normal...this does not mean anything is wrong or needs to be fixed. I'm always amazed when this is not mentioned first...

"but sometimes people get blasted for questions only extensive searching would answer. " Excuse me, but I need some clarification, who is 'getting blasted' in this thread? Someone asked a question, others answered it, there was clarification, and then further discussion and education on what is actually going on. Where is the 'blasting' in the responses? And god forbid someone 'search extensively'... As to this comment: "I've been a member of this forum for quite a while, and have noticed that people with "knowledge" get away with a lot more "tone" than people without "knowledge". I agree that this thread has valuable information about vehicle emissions, but really struggle with the way that it is passed down. " If you want information, learn to be humble when asking for it, and when you get it THANK PEOPLE FOR IT! Putting on an attitude is NOT grattitude. Nobody HAS to answer anybody else's dumbarsed questions. If they do, consider yourself lucky. Some of us are easily happy without the internet and can get along just fine without ever 'sharing' what we know with someone who doesn't like the way information is presented to them FREE OF CHARGE AND ANY PAIN OR FINANCIAL OUTLAY. <edit> "Who is John Galt?"<edit> Christ, if I was this picky about it when I was a kid, I would have gotten lugnuts and sparkplugs thrown at me and been scolded for not thinking before I asked "zuch a sthupid qvestion!" Oh waitaminit, that DID happen to me when I asked questions where I didn't think about it first. Excuse me... did someone throw spark plugs or lugnuts at you in any of the responses? I didn't think so...

Keep the HachiRokku. Give me the license plate... You are looking at 10 years more wear, 10 years more neglect, and a totally different parts set. Don't make it an either-or question. They are different cars, and perform different functions. I was in Japan in the 80's when that car was new, and at that time it was a battle with the S30 for the Togue, the S30's being the dominant 'standard setter' at the time. Proven reliable and plenty of R&D to back them up in the aftermarket. I'd not exchange one for the other.

Since my 62 VW Bus didnt have reverse lights, and in a dark bowling alley parking lot I krinked the rear corner on a Dodge tank on league night... when my original tranny took a dump and I refit the 67 box with a reverse switch, I decided 'hey, I can put real back-up lights on this thing' so on the bumper I clamped one 55W H3 driving light with a pencil beam, and one 55W H3 fog light. Worked through a relay anyway, so I figured 'if I need a light to dig myself out of a snowbank I may as well put this on a switch while I'm at it...' Viola, exactly the same result. I would get guys with their high-beams on by backside and FOOF FOOF FOOF! Suddenly there were either low beams or they backed off far enough that it didn't bother me any more! Vengance is mine! That was about the time I had the Marchal 9" Super-Oscars on the front bumper with the big-watt Hellas for headlights. Back then, people would flash me because the lights were bright, but not aimed wrong or anything. Usually a flash...flash....constant high-beam at me oncoming. When that high-beam came on full-time, I would romp on the foot switch with a vengance and feel the car slow down from the generator load of 2 130 Watt Hella High-Beams and 2 100W Marchal Super Oscars with a reflective range of something like 2 miles all coming on at once. There was instantaneous compliance with oncoming low-beams after that little display... Only once was it a Michigan State Police cruiser! He was not amused...

That was not my experience, I put all Northern Tier SAC installations on my Dream Sheet and the CBPO guys said "you want to go here? Oh, you're GOING to go to one of these!" I got orders to Japan. The rest is history. <EDIT> the only guy in our two tech school classes that put an overseas assignment on his dream sheet got it: Hickam Hawaii. He sucked. If I knew I was going over anyway, I would have chosen, but all I knew was if I put 'open overseas' I was going to Inclric Turkey. I knew it. Positively! LOL

I must admit, my H-4 Lights.com supplied Narva bulbs went out on low beam after 15 years of driving, so being the cheapskate I am I put duct tape over the highbeam reflector region of the Autopal Reflector lens and drove on unabated until I had a chance to get him face to face and complain about his cheap bulbs. I mean really, 15 years? C'mon! These replacements should be WARRANTY! Seriously, I duct taped the headlights when the second low-beam went out within a week of the first. Of course that week of driving took 3 months given the time the car was parked at the LAX Parking Structure...

I also call to note that Nissan started different cooling systems on 'high specific output' engines in the L line consistent with 300HP for racing. This is right where Ricky is, and where Zya got his Bob Sharp parts (which block the internal water bypass to the pump suction, and put vent lines into the system...) Ricky next time the head if off, plug the water bypass on the inside of the block---tap the hole and put a flushseal plug in there. You will see added benefit, and if you have a bypassed thermostat with those hoses, you have plenty of flow capacity to prevent pump cavitation during warmup...

I get giddy when someone actually reads the posts and gets the root benefit out of it. The temperature you read at the THERMOSTAT is considerably LOWER than what is present at the back of the engine. Spot boiling at the back of the engine affects the WHOLE engine and can lead to 'overheating'... One thing to note is that on Jeff's engine we have done CONSIDERABLY MORE than what you can see externally to get it to the point that 170 at the thermostat housing is the same as 170 at the 4/5/6 CHT position. If you have not done our 'internal mods' likely you will have higher temperatures at the CHT reading point (KTM mentioned this in the post earlier.) You may not notice it during regular driving or even 10 laps (KTM says the mods to the head reduced the temperature, but this wasn't held at 450HP for 5 minutes straight, either...) There are other things to do to the engine to improve coolant flow through the block and head that reward you with consistent temperatures, which happen to be lower. I would say with the modifications Jeff and I have done I could now run a 190 degree thermostat without reservation for added thermal benefits... But without these modifications, unless you are running a stratospheric pressure radiator cap to suppress boiling at the back of the head, running a 190 thermostat is asking for problems with heat...

Go. End of discussion.

" It seems to me like 40-50 extra HP would go a long ways with a 2900 lbs car toward making the car more fun, less sluggish around town and on the freeway" So will a 3.90 with an early five speed and an 11# flywheel. It will be a different car with those two mods alone. No engine changes required at all. Sluggish comes from three things: 1) Gear ratio in the back set up for 'fuel economy' and not 'performance'---the world got 3.70 with a four speed, and 3.9 or 4.11 with a 5 speed (in the JDM you get a 4.38 with a 2/2 and five speed...) 2) Heavy stock flywheel that masks response to throttle inputs. 3) People who don't freakin' know how to drive and think the L28 is a Small Block Chevy and expect performance below 3500 rpms when they floor it. Do us all a favor, drive the car in the proper gear for speed, if you are not going 60mph, you shouldn't be in fifth...hell, fourth is a stretch for 60, actually. Normally that is 3rd gear territory if I'm accelerating down an onramp for commuting. (and it would be the top of 2nd with my 3.70 if I was in my turbo car...) Consider well these facts.

IMO, "terrible question"... Bolt-Ons are not what you need to look to, I will repeat this again for the sake of your edification. I got a 76 S30 with triple Webers, Header, and exhaust. Car felt hot... I mean my butt dyno said this thing was a screamer. Of course the Dyno-Jet said it made 87 or so HP. Off came the Webers, and sold were they. Off came the header, and given away it was. I installed the stock 176,000 mile EFI system we took off our Bonneville car that was sitting in a box. I installed a proper N42 Cast Iron Exhaust Manifold with an MSA Downpipe to mate to the 2.5" crush-bent exhaust that was already in the car (to which I added a BIG Glasspack---one of those 36" mothers that fits under the tranny!) Then, with attention to detail the timing was set, valves adjusted, blah blah blah... Car spun the same dynojet to 147HP. You want 50HP? How about almost 70...from basic maintenance and proper performance tuning. Quit looking for the 'Magic Bullet'---optimize what you have, and until you are making AT LEAST 147HP on your stock system, consider the fact that 'something ain't right' and you need to fix THAT before looking for some 'magic bullet' to give you more horsepower. Putting bolt-ons to a sub-optimal car is not the way to do it. Your question was 'how do I get 200HP from an N/A S30 L28' and that thread already exists. Sure, I got the answer: bolt on the complete Slovers head with Isky cam, and a set of 44PHH Mikuinis and spend some $$$ on dyno time with a five gas analyzer...

While the vertical axis appears to have incorrect scaling, that horizontal axis on the L24 run looks like someone's dyno sheet I know...

Oh, you mean like 'which cam is BEST for an L28ET engine'?

I find in cold weather, that is about the desired placement for a cat on a vehicle. It seems like a universal fitment.

That was the point from the beginning for the testing. Curiosity is good...if you got the money to satiate it!