Tony D

Doubtful, lots of thermal mass there. More likely simply exposed sections of particularly oxidation prone metal reacted in the air as it was exposed. Compound it by putting fingers on it with salts from your skin, and some humidity in the air...salt, water, exposed fresh iron.... Most people never see high-end engine assembly rooms, but rarely are they using bare hands to touch components. It's not out of fear of getting their hands dirty, but the possibility of putting salts on the surface from sweat and starting a potential corrosion based stress riser on critical components. Most stuff is bathed in oil, lightly for similar reasons. If you do touch it, the oil seals anything there away from oxygen... no oxygen, no corrosion! Hydrogen...lets not even go there!

"I have never seen their like in any hardware store or fastener retailer's outlet location." I posit you have! Look again at those M8-1.25X40 Socket Head Set Screws, and then go to the bin where the M8 All-Thread Coupling Nuts reside... Put the two together, a little loctite red, and there you have it! "You're Welcome!"

In some European countries they test left/right brake bias and if it's off by more than 2-3% they fail your car as unsafe. The car isn't working as designed and in a panic situation that 2 or 3% can have a seriously adverse effect in braking at high (or even not so high) speeds. The inspections done overseas are not like Texas or PA where you bribe some guy to give you a certificate. They REALLY DO check mechanical functions. In Germany, if you upgrade horsepower, you have to upgrade braking and provide engineering calculations to support the overall performance envelope of the vehicle is not compromised in an unsafe way. Where's the logic? "Properly Engineered and Safe Upgrading"---there are cars running around on American Freeways that are rattling deathtraps, and when they unleash carnage everybody looks at who to blame...usually it goes to who they can sue and there the government simply says they will do what they can to prevent stipid modifications. A bone stock VW Beetle chassis is not actually capapable of safely supporting the performance a 325HP engine will give...Doesn't stop me from making one. But should I be able to run it on the roads without a brake upgrade? In most of Europe (and Australia from what I understand), the answer is 'no'... That's the short-form answer. Additionally: "But why the hell do they not hire some people to check if the tuned cars are safe with brake and so on. Instead, they prohibit it all!" Sadly, this is universal for Governments, no matter where you are! "Get the car "TÃœV Merkblatt 751" certified (brake, emission, dyno and stering is testet) - Cost around 10.000$" This is similar to the CARB certification process in California, technically you can do ANYTHING you want to your car, as long as you can prove it doesn't increase the emissions, to do this you submit your car for testing. This costs some $$$, you get a 'pass/fail' result. If you fail, they don't tell you why, just that you fail. You can figure it out and resubmit, and they will do it again. Either you get the CARB certification, or you give up. It's why most of the old 'SMOG' headers with AIR in them aren't available any longer---they were legal under prior systems in the state, but have not undergone CARB certification so now would be 'illegal'... But that only involves ONE facet of the TUV---give it to the Germans to have a very precise paperwork process to circumvent lazy acceleration and get performance...just fill out the forms, and provide documentation along with copious amounts of money and you too can have a TUV approved 325HP VW Beetle (and they do exist there!) Realize how lucky some of us are to live in the USA for some respects of the automotive hobby. Many people have no clue how lucky they really do have it!

noisy Holley Red or Blue out back with regulation at the float bowl will work just fine.

This is incorrect, early N42's do have the eccentric! Even though they were 'EFI' motors, there were plenty of other applications (especially in the JDM) where they could go either EFI or Carb and would need the eccentric. The only way to know is pull the valve cover and check. This does not 'destroy' the valve cover gasket. I have had my cover off with the stock Nissan Gasket now countless times without ever changing it, no leaks yet. Don't let that stop you. Chances are good that if the head does not have an open fuel pump boss on the front of the head, it won't have the eccentric. But if you got a head with a 'block off plate' on there, it may or may not have the eccentric.

WD 40 is a WATER DISPLACEMENT COMPOUND and is NOT a preservative oil. It's that simple. Anybody using WD40 as a 'preservative' is guilty of 'not reading the directions'... It will get water off, but it's a light aromatic that evaporates. As water displacement oils should. Do not preserve items with WD40. Use a good motor oil, preservative oil, or for longer storage cosmoline or other wax-based preparation to keep a dry surface from exposure to oxygen or other corossive or active elements. WD40 'does not' attract water. That phrase should be edited out of the prior post. Where does stuff like that come from?

As it is with people who swap from EFI to carbs becuase they are familiar with them, I make the same suggestion: LEARN about the system, it only takes a couple of hours of reading. Spend time reading and learning and less griping about it on the internet, and by that time you WILL understand the setup and will have fixed the problem. Like guys who blame the EFI when they got the car, becuause it was the thing they understood the least, I get the funny sinking feeling you are blaming the carbs for the issues because you don't know what you are looking at. You have given us nothing of substance to go on regarding troubleshooting---because you don't know what to give us. Learn the basics, then you will give us something we can go from. If the car starts and runs, the carbs are working. That it 'doesn't accelerate' doesn't mean NECESSARILY the carbs are the fault. Is the car warmed up? How old is the gas? What oil is in the dampers? Blah Blah Blah... You can't get nothing from nothing, and that is what is going on here now. Educate, do not regirgutitae. When you have a basic knowledge, maybe you can give us something more to go on---frankly you haven't given us anything from an EFI perspective that would solve anything either. It's a crap post. Make it better or give it up and delete it.

Nie!

no, i never said that.

Depending on what market you are in, yes they do! In the USA the only plate that didn't have an engine physical serial number and displacement signifier on it was the 77/78 280Z which simply said 'L28' all the cars up to that point had a matched VIN/SN correlation as recorded on the engine room VIN plate. This is also true in other countries outside North America, but it's hit-or-miss...

the suction domes move independent of throttle plate angle depending on manifold vacuum present biased against damper oil weight, weight of the piston, spring weight on the piston and any sliding friction present. the differential between the opening of the throttle plate and the opening of the suction dome exposes manifold vacuum to the CV (constant velocity) section of the cabe where the needle and jet is exposed to the airstream, and pulls gas from the jet and atmoizes it. The size of the needle at any given station determines cross sectional area of the jet exposed to the air and ultimately dictates total fuel flow possible under any condition. Have you read the SU FAQ yet?

Oh, but wait... No government likes cars. They.................................<snip>.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................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And THAT is my governmental meddling about cars rant! (self enforced rules-compliance snippage)

To add to what Ray says, don't confuse a turbos hot side a/r with getting 'more power up top' in MOST cases all it does is delay boost onset making for LESS power under the curve. If you have an A/R that is too big or you have messed up sizing it and your slip ratio is off wastegate sizing may be more important...but that's a band-aid to an application problem. If JeffP could run a T3/4 hybrid to 500HP and 7000rpms with zero intake/exhaust delta-p and only use a 0.63A/R housing you might want to reconsider your 'need' for a 0.82 hot side. And that was on an INTERNAL wastegate! All a 0.82 will do is move your boost threshold from 3000 to 3500 or higher (depending on compressor-side mapping) and put the flapper into a less flow conducive angle. You may want to review the progression of Jeff's turbos, as he was making an honest 450RWHP on a stock housing ported to work with a different T3 turbine wheel, and a TO4 Compressor housing. That thing would give him 30psi at 3000rpms and pull well to 7000. And again, that was with the INTERNAL wastegate. If you are worried about too much compressor and want to blow off excess exhaust that is another way to go, but the staging of the wastegate is much tricker. I don't think it's needed. Frankly anything to 400 would likely not need an external at all if you do your sizing right. I think Jeff had some creep problems at the stock 8psi setting, but after that it was fine. Another thing you want to pay attention to at Jeff's site is the actual flowing of the Tial 38mm WG, it's not as great as it should be and their smaller unit actually flows more. It's all on his extreme280ZXT site at anglefire. I think you're going big in the wrong places, and adding complexity you don't really need at that power level.

I believe they are the same. I can't see the bearing number, but these parts are interchangable on US models telling me they were a 'universal application'... things like bearings and seals are RARELY market-dependent. I hate to admit this, but my 74 260Z has a partially collapsed steering column, and those parts are just hanging there most of the time. It hasn't affected driving of the car for over 150,000 miles, including countless autocrosses. I can see where a bearing that was sticking could cause a problem, but it's a support item for the end of the shaft, it's along for the ride mostly...

What is all that stuff? You mean you get to stop driving your car for 6 months and just WORK on it? No WONDER you guys back east have such nice looking cars. Man, all we can do here in SoCal is drive drive drive drive. You gotta have like four cars before you can take one out of circulation to work on it. Then you have to decide which drive to skip, which car show to skip, which race to skip to make the time to work on it! Man it's brutal! You guys look like you got a great deal, that white stuff comes and lets you turn off the sprinklers so nobody complains about not having a green lawn, you don't have to mow it every week, and it's nice an white. I bet you can shoot Kodachrome 25 outside with all that reflectivity! (But they've taken my Kodachrome away...) You indeed, live in a land of what looks like Milk, at least! All that time to work on the cars. Lucky bastards!

Have to agree with Randy on that one. The cost for purchase and shipping is less than repairing a rusted out eastern Z. Economically for a serious long-term keeper it makes much more sense. I have had people in Europe tell me 1978 chassis I have supplied out of the desert had less rust on them than 3 and 4 year old BMW's which were driving in Europe and brought in for chassis prep!

Yeah, there is a heavy pull for me to emigrate... Youtubes like that don't help, man! First thing I said to Cesar was 'They make a 7K with EFI now you know?' Drinks too much gas. Ahhh well. Yeah, an SR20 powered Jeep would be my choice. And a VW Tricycle... Something I could FIT in!

Download This PDF! Page 13 should explain it... On the following, "80" should be noted. It does not look like it was from crown down, and does not include the rings, so a combination source should be considered. Anybody wonder why running pig rich (note crown/ring area) is bad? I think you were wall-washing. I like the GRAPHICS on this one slightly better... Plus I have always liked TRW/Koblenschmidt! Nice Ubermenchen with the cape as well... Between these two OEM Piston Damage Books, you should see the common patterns that emerge.

Putting a cat on a car with EFI and putting a cat on one with SU's is apples and oranges. I have to appreciate the high level of technical expertise here, and adherence to scientific methodology when doing these sort of swaps. Please keep in mind, because someone discusses the technical aspects of a subject does not mean they are 'stuck in theory'---I am a firsthand proponent of field testing to prove or disprove theory. But don't be stupid about it! Ignoring proper application warnings is just that: stupid. So take your ball and run, don't share the success story, don't give us before and after emissions readings. That really helps everyond on the board. Thanks for that, man! I guess the next guy will simply have to do it on his own and report the results...if he chooses to do so after being INFORMED of the things to be wary of when setting up the project.

Every Eurospec Turbo has the oil cooler. Only some in the USA got them. I would say retain the cooler.

More wiring is better than less. There are actually only a few wires that are connected inside the right fender off the fusible link box that are necessary for the EFI/ECCS, but having it all will wipe out the possibility that you will miss them. Fishing them from the inner fender is a PITA, and usually people cut them, remove them, then splice them back together afterwards. If you are good with the brittle plastic connectors in the fusible link box, you might get them out unharmed and can plug them straight back in---I have accomplished that feat exactly ONCE. That being said...if the car is running and you can confirm it runs well you may be money and time ahead discarding the stock harness altogether, and doing the Megasquirt upgrade straight off the bat. It's no harder than swapping in the stock stuff, and it's inevitable once you get the car running and crave more power. IMO from the driveability standpoint alone, the swap to MS on any running ECCS 280ZX or S30 conversion is well worth it. All said and done, I think the MS conversion is actually easier than the stock setup. It seems there's less bulky wiring 'along for the ride' if you use the $65 harness!

That is their design function. It keeps the fuel in the Accelerator pump below it from percolating out and making a TERRIBLE lean flat spot on quick throttle application. Heat boils the fuel in the accel pump and it discharges up therough the pump nozzles, leaving them dry when the time comes to quickly hit the throttle and inject the accel squirt. Running a volatile light solvent (gas) over the top of the accel pump (and under the float bowl) sucks out heat from both areas and keeps the bowls and accel pump full of liquid gasoline. These are an OEM part for some JDM cars with hot non-crossflow engine compartments!

Put them all on the dyno and find out which works best for you. That, despite all experts opinions, is the correct answer!

"Vintage Hillborn" Just like "Vintage" HKS ITB's on a HKS Type 2 Surge Box and Lucky Strikes! And like I said: "N/A, No Problem!" "Vintage" Rally Z Engine (Photo taken: 1972!!!), Crossflow Head, Bosch 1st Generation Electronics (courtesy of JECS of course!) That big pipe to the can on the firewall, THAT my friends is the MAP sensor, and calibration on those was NOT my cup of tea! And of course, "Vintage Hillborn" (Taken from the E-Bay ad I got them from---if I lost the auction, I sure as hell didn't want to loose the photos of what they looked like!)

Bring "Back"? Until September 2009, the Hillborn unit I have was in competition and winning races! There's no "back" when you never left!