Tony D

Is the Mustang a "sportscar"? Hell, is the 370?

I got a couple of those as well. Easily fixed with a BIG soldering iron (the type you heat with a torch) some acid-core solder, and a pre-1982 US Penny (all copper, no zinc) Heat the soldering iron, flux up the penny, clean the area aroudn the hole, then put the penny on the red-hot soldering iron, slap it to the tank and lay the solder to it. Solders up the hole no problem. It helps if you can pull some of the piercing back out, but it's not necessary. I actually don't let the pick-axe holes deter me any longer. They are getting impossible to find, so when I get one that looks good, I get it and complain at the payment window about the hole to try and knock down the price. Rust? Look in terms of severity. If it wasn't cleaned properly there will be some surface rust. But if you see a 'line' like it was half-empty for a looooong time consider knocking some $$$ off the offer. If the pickup tube is immersed, or exposed then you're usually good. But when it's half submerged and the top half is exposed long term to the condesnation, it can eat a pinhole and it's a bear to troubleshoot. Almost as bad as maple leaves in the tank that intermittently get sucked onto the pickup tube...

Hell, with that comment lets go full cicrle and just say it outright and quit the obfuscation: "Hey, it's only a 280ZX, who cares?" Or even better: "Those modifications would have looked better on a Z31. Anything makes a Z31 look better!" Or the Z Car.Com standard: "At least it wasn't a matching numbers Series-1 240 that he did it to!"

90 degree fittings look nice in photos, but really you want at least 12 diameters of straight fuel line into and out of the pump for best flow properties. On the inlet side at least, discharge is a bit more forgiving but a straight fitting and slow curve on a discharge flexible line will flow better and result in less pressure drop.

I'd have to agree, that is nothing compared to getting one with a 'radiator shop rebuild' that looks good, but internally has pinholes in the pickup tube. I wouldn't part with any of mine for 2X that asking price, simply because I know INTERNALLY they are perfect, no pinholes and no leaks. Outside they may be dirty and dented, but they were out of running cars and once they were dried out of fuel, were immediately sprayed internally with WD40, and then had a nice dose of LPS Preservative put into them and then were capped to prevent any volatile off-gassing. They should hold indefinately like that, so when I want to do an EFI conversion, I can pick one and start in on it. Later tanks are cheaper as they only fit the later chassis. But 74 through 6/76 tanks are in the most demand---simply because they are the best for EFI conversion. 280 tanks get the nod over the 74 simply becauase of some more rudimentary baffles. But the 74 has all you need in terms of return line capacity in the right spot, you just need a bigger tube and swirl pot added. Actually, the 75/76 tanks could benefit from a better swirlpot as well, and rejiggered return line. For hard use it's what you want to do anyway.

Actually my biggest regret about going to work there was not taking 'Option 1' regarding the work truck. Had I done that, based on mileage alone driven on company time and billable, I would have paid for my 1998 Dodge Quad Cab the first year, and reaped the rewards of mileage till I left. I would have been paid over $56,000 for that truck. Which I had a done deal price of $19,800 (ready at the back of the lot to go to auction late in August 1999!) Then when I left, I would at least had a truck to my name. And then, if I was doing smoking burnouts with it...it was my own business! This guy and his wife were BIG on transferrence---putting THEIR motives toward other people's actions. Like I said, they were bad people. I wish them ill, and any misfortune that goes their way makes me smile. Including their spoiled spawn. I mean, you know a guy is raising an ******* for a kid when.... I'm not even going there. It's intergenerational. It's perpetuated. The sad thing is I can't figure out why his two other brothers are seemingly decent guys. For sure his younger brother. You know, the guy who quit working for him after 6 months and MOVED ACROSS THE COUNTRY to get away from him? I'd forego him any misfortune. He seemed like a decent guy. Clueless, but decent. "I only know Joe the Brother, I don't know Joe the Businessman." My reply: "Oh you poor bastard, I regret your awakening. I give you 6 months and you're going to quit and go back to where you were, and it won't be because you can't do the job, it will be because you are going to find out your brother is the biggest ******* on the face of the planet." I got a text (seriously) about 5 1/2 months later: "Tony-I had no idea. Sorry about what I said, you were right. Chris" When I called the number (kind of recognized the exchange) it was voicemailed. I think it was his last message from the company phone before turning it off and giving his notice! His apology was for his comment "What is it with you guys, one rat quits and the rest of the rats follow him off the ship?" I think he thought he offended me by referencing me as a rat and wanted to apologize! Decent enough, but no offense taken. Curiously he was the only person at the place that didn't have a statement in the legal proceedings. He did not bear false witness. For this, I spare him ill will or resentment of any kind. The rest of that ilk? When I start polishing up the SKS and putting on the lipstick, be sure to know they are on my list!

Make sure to note the explanation to the below on You Tube. One day, he will see this. You can see 'I had a co-conspirator' to participate in the filming. My only regret was those Go-Pro HD Herocams were not available so Joe could get someone from the internet calling him to 'report me'... He could slide under a gas truck and taste his own blood in slow immolation and I would smile. I can PM you my perfect death fantasy of him. It involves dry impaling on a pintree whilst skiing, and large carnivorous felines eating his extremities while still concious. I smile every time that image crosses my mind. There was no call for the torture he put people through. He is a bad person. No good comes from his existence. I wish him ill.

I was wondering what comment I made to get the new Avtar...

The GoPro Herocam (CLICK ME and not the Flash Ad on the bottom of the page...) was on sale at Costco for $169. The one everybody seems to be using, and for about $30 less. Not full HD, but really decent quality. For the length of recording it gives on a standard 8 or 16GB SD Chip, I can turn it on and off before and after runs. Editing is going to happen anyway. Plus, it's cheap enough that if I shunt into the wall, on the side with the camera, I will pray just the chip survives....so I can YouTube it! Now, in that case, I can see where wireless would guarantee the video survives. But I figure a breakaway mount will let the camera (or at least the chip) survive intact after the crash. Not that I plan on crashing. But capturing it is just bitchen if it does happen!

MOT? It's not Oz, it's Texas. No MOT there, we shot a lot of British around 224 years ago to get rid of MOT inspections and governmental meddling in our business. Heck, ain't Texas still able to start their own country if they so choose? My bud would have loved that on his Titan, if the engine didn't grind itself to nothing recently (just outside warranty period...)

At the firewall to floor juncture, making a 'c channel' with flanges to bridge the stock lap joint will help reinforce it as well... but that may not be legal for racing. For a street car you can do it, but racing usually has limitations so check the rules. Datsun was better than US Manufacturers in moving that joint back from the firewall/floor junction.

Yeah, the photos of the thing in action kind of should stop the 'does this thing work, anybody tried it yet' question. Someone took photos for the original site...

Yeah, but they're not literally lunchtime browsing distance from my office!

On solenoid valves: DEVAS On four valve-per-cylinder SBC's...you don't need OHC's to do that, there ARE 4-Valve heads which use pushrods! No different than an old two-stroke Detroit Four-Valver Diesel. "There is nothing new!"

Just for the record, Coates was contacted about doing a head for the Nissan L-Engine. R&D costs as well as protyping costs were offered to defray development costs on their end due to the acknowledged low-volume market it would cater to---they were unwilling to do the work. Even after an offer of 'minimum run payment' was made to get a one-off run of minimum production made just to supply people in the Datsun Community who were serious about the advantages of the Coates Setup. At the time I worked with a company who had a large investment with them doing rotary valve conversions for LNG service on large diesels in city busses. I was disapointed in their stance. If you remember I put up some photos of JeffP's engine while on a Superflow Dyno. The shop where that occured... the owner made his own DOHC Chevy Heads. He has four sets. Next time I'm in the shop, I'll make a point to snap some photos and chuck them up here. unless something else tasty there distracts me again...

Ooooh, "Office Close"! Those Silicone "Hump Hoses" are what you will want on the outlet of the AFM, and inlet to the Turbo, with as straight a run piece of tubing between them as possible. Using mandrel bends if at all possible, with some straight runs at each end consistent with the 'pipe diameters' comment in the other thread. Thanks for this link, I can see I will be stopping by after work next time I'm at the office!

The Stock Turbo AFM is calibrated to take the inlet airflow before the turbocharger. Placing the AFM after the turbo, under pressure, is a radically different flow and usually only done when someone is converting an EFI system from N/A to Turbo. This allows the standard condition flow monitoring of the N/A AFM/ECU combination to be effective with the addition of larger injectors and possibly a variable rate Fuel Pressure Regulator. It's old tech, though many of the DSM/Mitsubishi people like this with the MAF setups. The most convienient location in an S30 without the AFM bracket is to invert the stock Turbo AFM, just forward or behind the radiator mounting bulkhead, using the hole for the left underdash ventilation vent (remove the plastic connector from the inner fenderwell to the hole). You can then use standard N/A CAI kits to get your filter off the front of hte bulkhead. Make sure you use 'hump' hoses for the connections between tubingruns, as the motor will move on the monunts, and some flexibility in the intake system is required. Really, the farther the AFM is from the turbo, the less chance a backfire when cold will cause a problem with the shutter slamming shut and sticking. When it's close to the turbo inlet this is a possibility. Also, having a relatively straight run (about 6-8" on the stock turbo) is conducive to the best flow into the turbocharger inlet. Industry standard is 6 to 12 pipe diameter runs before a turbine inlet, and after any elbows before/after a metering device. So mounting about where the stock AFM is on a later model S30 is about as close a compromise to ideal positioning of the AFM as you will get. Imagine that, the Nissan Engineers did know what they were doing! To be clear, airflow should be like below: Air Cleaner-Tubing-AFM-Tubing-Turbocharger-Tubing-(intercooler-tubing)Throttle Body-Intake Manifold

How will the dash lights work? Usually LEDs need PWM to 'dim', they either are 'on' or 'off', and don't respond the stock dash dimmer system using a rheostat.

If you have the means to ship it yourself and don't get hung on the free shipping of a POV the military provides get one and ship it yourself. The main advantage to having someone there is they can "line up" prospects and then you can come with cash or line of credit in had to close the deal when you see the one you want. You can't take more than $10K cash out of the country at one time, so the days of 'cash and carry' are gone. Big Brother has ways of checking as well, so wire transfer and bank reg familiarity will help. Get your shipping company lined up beforehand, or have your brother do that footwork. Being near Yokuska it's a large port city and shippers should be plentiful. The biggest advantage you have is the possiblity to buy the car, get it on a three-day temporaty transport tag (or buy multiples to drive it for up to a couple of weeks---the 'red slash plate') before dropping it at the freight forwarder. Shipping to major port would be cheaper than to go all the way to Buffalo, Chicago, Detroit, Duluth, etc. Driving in from the coast (New Jersey, LA, New Orleans) can mean a cheaper shipment. If you go with a single car in a dedicated 20 or 40 foot container it will be about $3500. Getting it knocked down to part of a multiple shipment that is shared to a major port like LA can get you shipping as low as $1000, plus some borkerage and agent fees. Shipping the car in a dedicated 20 footer does have appeal because you have LOADS of parts space. But shipping a 20 footer costs as much as a 40 footer. If you can find two other guys who RELIABLY can come up with the money, and desire a car, you can get the per-vehicle cost comparable to a brokered single-vehicle shipment, with the added benefit of packing away body kits, and other bulky items which aren't cost-effective to ship otherwise. If you travel business, you can usually fenagle a G-Nose in baggage (especially if you are at an elite status on the airline) on the way back... Costs will be high for a good car, but having someone local may give you the chance to scout territory for less than perfect cars that a re complete and can be had for considerably less. I have seen guys with box skylines landed cost for $8K including shipment and spares! You have to look, and like anything those deals are out there...but infrequent. Sounds like you got 2 years to find it! If you plan on your brother taking advantage of POV shipment, you will likely have to get it in his name NLT 13 months before his PCS orders. PM me if you want any more information. I am on schedule to visit Quarterly. One of our agents lives near Yokuska, and another near Yakota. I could always try to meet up and go hunting with you... it would be an experience!

At long last my largest lament on the Mustang has been remedied. For the longest time I would complain that the Mustang was a competent chassis, but that the V6 they put in the base models (rentals) was a dog compared to anything else out there (for instance it's contemporary the GM GenIII 3800.) Nissan put the marketing Niche of the 350Z squarely on the Mustang, and as a result Ford has responded (kudos to them!) to fight for the segment of entry-level Mustangs. The old RS Camaro was a joke compared to the Mustang, but at least you could get it with the 4.3, and that was decent. The Mustang always suffered anemia. Thankfully not any longer! As for the cessation of the Z32 in 96, there were emissions requirements that nixed it, plus it wasn't selling at all. Less than 10,000 units (Less than 5K in reality). Terrible sales coupled with rising emissions requirements in mid production cycle means 'no more chips for mr happy'!THE YEN RATE WAS IRRELEVANT---all the lovers of the Japanese Supercars want to blame that for killing the RX7, Supra, and Z32, but in reality that had little to do with it---it was an unrealistic sales model based on volumes that couldn't be supported. Just look to the Honda NSX---the Honda Supercar made it through the decade JUST fine, and only recently succumbed. At least Nissan learned their lesson, and pegged GT-R sales closer to realistic levels like Honda did initially with the NSX. Had any of the other manufacturers done this they, too would have rode out the 90's like Honda did: selling a low volume nich car for MORE money than any of the others, but which sold steadily and consistently over it's design life.

Intercooling a 5psi turbosystem is nice....but I doubt it's in any way 'mandatory'. 280ZX's will run all day long at track events without an issue. Seriously, he will not need more than 5 psi to get the HP he desires. 7 at the max. At those levels intercooling is nice, but not mandatory. As for 'backpressure' that's something that has to be measured. The turbos he has available in Europe were .82 A/R on the hot side, not .63 like the USA. With twin 3" exhausts off the turbos and a SBC that will likely peak at 5800rpms, each bank pumping 2.5 to 3.0L of exhaust gasses this is like two four cylinder stock Z engines. There's a lot of tendency to overthink this stuff and overdesign it 'because that's what's right'---but those turbo cars lasted 300K miles, without an intercooler, so I'm thinking longevity should be fair in this application. I would agree this would be a fail on a 383 with a US Spec Turbo (0.63 Hot Side A/R), it would likely work fine for a 305 streeter. But anything larger than that would likely be restricted bigtime. But with that 0.82 it's opened up enough. In any case it's like Frank said: getting it set up and then putting in a 383 will be later. At that time he can get a larger A/R (say 1.06) set of turbos. But for trial fittment, and running around cheaply, a couple of ZX turbos will give him that power level, no doubt about it. They will flow 200bhp and still be in the sweet spot of the compressor end of the turbo. If he was trying to go to 600hp, then yeah...no way will the ZX stuff handle that reliably. But for only 400 (or 200HP per turbo) that's child's play! Hell, that's the RATING of the ZXT in Europe (200HP). I'm not sure what the T28's came off of, but they are likely far smaller in A/R than the stock ZX units. I have seen a 'Twin Datsun Turbo' ghetto rigged onto a SBC before, which is why I mentioned it. The performance was surprising for the money expended. Very stout! And with EFI that can adapt to the lower temps of a non-I/C setup at 5-7psi, it should be far more reliable than a carb in that instance.

Cut the glovebox and read the tag, that's the ticket! Seriously, I've taken the door lock from the passengers door (usually less worn) and had a key made, which just happened to work on everything on the car. But that's $35. Probably either way you will need to get the key made, and there is a good chance the tag on the box door will be illegible. I've seen more without a readable tag, than with over the years.

Like JohnC said, it's not a head, it's an engine assembly---it goes back to them protecting their interests by controlling the build so they know the head is being applied properly. It was closer to $100K to get the 'head', it came with the long block as well... Hey, I know, I'll get JeffP to look into it. He'll buy it!

That would be my guess. Problem is none of the OSG fans has ever DRIVEN a car equipped with one, whereas I have... "Try to get higher on the fence than THAT!"

If you are serious about wanting to learn how to tune a Haltech, go to school. Seriously. EFI101 is in Temecula, and they have CLASSES on each of the major EMS systems out there. It's just a matter of making the time to get there for their class schedule. They have the dyno, the instructor is right there, you get classroom instruction on what the EMS is doing and then go tune (if you want to) on your own vehicle! Anybody in the SoCal area that has an EMS system and wants to learn the ins and outs really needs to look those guys up, they have been around forever, and have travelling classes. All it takes is an e-mail or phone call. You wouldn't believe it's this easy to just CLICK HERE Seems to me there was a place in San Diego that had Haltech, something like "Performance EFI" or something like that---I won't make all the links for you, you got to do something yourself!