Tony D

With enough people out there pre-nisstune hacking the stock Hexidecimal EEPROM via romulator and prom burners, I'm surprised someone would come up with that kind of a comment. Xnke is 100% correct, Nisstune gives you a Megasquirt-Like interface and the ability to burn the prom on-the-fly. And you are correct, there is no 27 pin EEPROM. They all have even numbered legs...far as I know. Why would it have to be 27pin specific? By GM-Sense of the word I meant that GM puts a PROM-Holder on the ECU Board, allowing an EEPROM change in the field without exchanging the whole ECU. GM thought ahead. Ford chose to have a field flash programmer. Now, everything is available through the OBD Port and is reburnable that way---CONSULT can do the same thing with Nissan Boxes. You don't NEED a replaceable chip to have a programmable EFI system on your OEM ECU. On the older stuff, it just made hacking the Hex easier by reading the files, changing values, and reburning/replacing the chip to see what changed. But that was the stone age, Eh Gimli Boy?

This is coming from a guy with 1973 Dodge-Sattelite-Lookalike Kenmeri's as his photo signature? I must say you know your unliked cars then! It's the voice of unapreciated and unliked from afar! I love how superficial and opinion-of-others driven so many of the posters here are...it's the sheep that rule the style police. The wolves eat the sheep daily but are decried for savagery. I am but a noble savage, and I'm a glutton for mutton! Baaa-aaa-aaad mouth the guy's car all you want. He did something different. I praise the noble savage as he walks head held high amongst the bleating sheep of conformity!

Voltage test on the battery after starting, without revving, should be 'low' maybe 11.XX volts to 12.9 volts. Check alternator, likely will be the same as battery. Give the car a quick blip of the throttle (excitation of alternator) and then check again. Voltage should be 13.8 at the battery, and at the alternator output terminal (negative meter cable on negative battery post). Run RPMS up to 2500 or so and check again. Alternator voltage should be 13.8-14.2 or thereabouts. Battery should be the same. If battery is not getting voltage from alternator, find broken wire/fusible link/etc. If alternator is not exciting and getting to 13.8 and staying there, alternator/regulator is your issue. With a severely discharged battery you can toast the new alternators and regulators if you aren't careful. I just did this at the Skunkworks, left the lights on all day came back dead as a doornail. Ammeter went halfway up when revved (and idling voltage was around 12.9 against an original battery voltage of...uh...single digits...) stayed there all through my three hour drive to the club meeting, and then after a two hour rest started kinda slow but about 30 minutes down the freeway with the lights on, the meter went back to 'just right of center' like always and it's been fine since. If the battery was 'dead' and wouldn't start the car at all, I would expect the ammeter to be halfway up for a little while until the battery was back up and running. A bad diode will drain the battery overnight...see if you have AC in the system---it can kill your lights, and if you had EFI the ECU as well! I found a 240 recently which had great alternator voltage, but nothing to the battery. Damned frustrating, but realized the guy that modified the car for all the nice gauges (and did the internal regulated alternator harness conversion) likely neglected to tie the two ammeter wires together when he removed the ammeter! D'OH! I put an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and the car drove back across the country from the Left Coast with nice bright lights...

Uh, yes there has... you just solder the chip (or if you are spunky, the chip holder) onto the board. They are chippable, just not in the GM sense of the word.

I could if the operator lift throttled and dumped a gob of unburned HC down the pipe... And that is exactly what I would do as a litigation-wary dyno operator when I started seeing the AFR do that kind of thing! Ever watch the AFR on a stock SU car when you drop throttle with and without the throttle closing dashpot on the balance tube? BIG difference in HC jump on drop-throttle above 3K rpms. I'm betting this car does not have AIR Injection or a Throttle Dampening Dashpot installed...

Actually the best 'trick' for installation is spelled out pretty well in the FSM along with a physical drawing/photograph of what angle you want to use to drop it in and get it all lined up. My trick is lubricating everything before installation, and using two of the window rollers on the outside of the door like the JDM cars used---keeps the window from rattling like it does in US Market cars. You can see the cutout on the door skin where the roller clips further back. US Cars got one, JDM cars got two. They are the same roller, you just have to scrounge some extras off doors in the JY.

One time, at Band Camp, I heard this story about Cheap Affordable EFI...

Apparently Anoka MN is an ESL location, as nothing proffered seems to have been heeded. Just the insistent counterpoint. Ah well, good luck to you. As they say: "You can lead a horse to water..."

You and me both, man! They come from 'The Book According to Corky' and like any archival source of data, things change and Corky ain't The Almighty.

most N/A applications nowadays use the IAT from the air filter. If you are concerned about heat transfer from the manifold, mount it there, or in the cold air piping before the throttle plate. Problem of manifold heat transfer solved. Turbocharged...well that's another matter entirely.

I won't make money off my Z's, so the price of acquisition is fairly irrelevant. But the quality of people seeking to buy parts will definately improve. You can deal with bottom feeding want-everything-for-nothing for only so long. Then, you either go out of business (hurts the community) or take on a more militant stance towards them (Gene Berg Approach). Gene Berg is still a premier name in VW Parts, in a sea of overseas competition that can get you 'the same thing' for 1/10th the price. Or can it? Intelligent people know that mechanically is one thing, but intrinsically it's something totally different. The imitators will drop you like a hot potatoe when the volume drops and their shite is not worth making. And they move on. Once the price / volume thing shakes out, high cost, high quality parts will be the only thing that remains and the cheap shite you can get will be just that: Cheap Shite. I look forward to that moment.

OHH, isn't pressurizing the roll cage and monitoring the internal pressure one of the ways to check for structural integrity? Wasn't there a manufacturer that used a compress gas charge in their space-frame for this purpose? (Concept being any drop in pressure from the factory charged pressure indicated a latent failure which needed to be found.)

I get no joy in seeing myself on Ron's post... is there a photo there, or did I really loose a lot of weight and am now invisible? Prolaxmus, your statement is flawed in that you discount capacitance storage, and the existence of air amplifiers. If you have a 10:1 amplifier, you can take 1 scfm at Xpsi and convert it to 10 scfm at a lower pressure by inducing ambient air into the stream of the amplifier. It's a concept which allows the use of compressed air to cool panels (vortex coolers), as well as provide huge volumes of low pressure air from a single source of high pressure air. Air Conveying of AGM (the stuff in diapers) is a good source of an industrial application of the technology. All you need to know is how much pressure, and at what flow you will need, for what duration and that will dictate the size of the storage vessel. Making 1300CFM (or even 2600cfm) for 10 seconds off 175 or even the A/C compressor 235psig available would not be difficult. It's a limited boosting time, usually seconds, dictated only by pressure vessel size, and available compression---most people don't have a Davey MC2A in their back yard capable of pumping up air cylinders to 2400psig. But I do know of a surplus Bauer that can do 3600psig if anybody is interested...just buy good tanks! As for the 'Air Car'---that's a joint venture with Atlas Copco, the largest Air Compressor Manufacturer in the world (regardless of what the boys in Davidson NC want to tell you...) Atlas Copco was the company which provided the Pneumatic Utility pressure in Paris back in the day. You know? Where they ran pneumatic clocks before electricity was in common usage. The more you learn, the more you forget! Air power was once as common in Paris as Electricity is today. In fact, the name Atlas Copco is a derivation of Atlas Compagnie Pneumatique Compression. There were guys who worked there for over 25 years in the USA that didn't know that... They have been around as an Air Compressor Company as long as Coors has been making Beer. But I digress...

The Mikuini and Weber PHH44 and DCOE45's are used on Harleys, does this make them motorcycle carbs as well?

I got pulled over one morning by the Riverside Co Sheriff for 'taking off pertty quickly' and then he stated the speed limit on the road was 45mph. I countered that Office Husband of the CHP stated all these roads were a 55mph limit (which I did not exceed) when I was the victim of a swoop-and-squat two years ago. Sheriff Deputy didn't know how to take that one. Gulped, mumbled something and walked away to his cruiser. Guess the CHP trumps the Sheriff. Or he realized I wasn't some dumb bumpkin that could be buffaloed into admitting I was breaking the speed limit when I wasn't. "Blow Me, Joe!"

Oh, yeah, I forgot... you can use your A/C pump to refill the tanks. Those will return close to 15cfm at 235psig at the flip of a switch. That will refill onboard storage pretty quickly. Andy Flagg put into the public domain some years ago a plan whereby you disabled cylinders on a small car's engine and use the 'off' cylinders as superchargers for the running cylinders. It involves storage tanks for some volume. The engine is running around in his Civic 3-valve engine. It uses stored pressure for impulse supercharging of the power cylinders for accelleration assistance. Some stuff you never think will work never will because you didn't think it would.

(SIGH) This is a doable idea, and the concept is proven. Using 'amplifiers' --- volume enhancing devices for compressed air --- it IS possible to give the engine several PSI of boost for limited periods of time (we are talking seconds here). It's a lot of work for a very short duration boost of power. Passing, drag racing cheater system, etc. With the use of SCUBA-style tanks, the boost can be higher and longer making prodigious jumps of power. stpracinz is nowhere close in his calculations, mainly becasue it won't work at all without the amplifiers. Otherwise, you have to get a fueling system which will accomodate it, more cost on something you want on a budget I'm guessing. The guy in Florida that wrote the book about using the Magnesium Replacement Impellers for Toro Leaf Blowers as belt-driven superchargers for small engines (below 3 liters) has another book on making the air amplifiers, as well as some stuff using CO2 bottles similarly. I didn't read into the CO2 stuff. Generally the Compressed Air stuff is for street racers who will claim to be N/A and have no NOS...but still have something up their sleeve. Everybody has air bags today right? Explains the big tank in the trunk! Can't use levers, need to use fast reacting solenoids and ASCO or Aquamatic Valves. Like you got on the Air Bag "Jumper Set" cars with the weeping women murals and 45 degree mudflaps with 13" wide whitewalls... Don't read too much Corky. It leads you down a paradigmed path which is damned boring!

Every question you have asked has been answered in the archives already, including about your fuel injection pump and linkages. If you think bike carbs are a better way of doing it than EFI.... Well...bood luck to you. You are making statements about using things for reasons which are neither rational or particularly well-thought out. If you can't handle the linkages, what makes you think the tuning of individual carbs is within your realm (or that EFI is somehow more complex?) I ran blowthrough for years. I changed to EFI because tuning was easier. But you will have to learn that for yourself. Read Yetterben's thread on his build. This is also in the archives as well. (BTW, "Dirt bike carbs" are no more responsive than any other carburettor, if you think so, you simply don't know enough about carbs to undestand the folly of your statement! It goes hand in hand and is in the same vein as someone making the statement: "Carbs are Easy"---anybody making that statement has neither tuned carbs seriously, or has very low standards of acceptable performance. "It starts it runs, it doesn't puff black smoke much." is not acceptable performance in this company...generally speaking!)

Spraying Carb Cleaner on the shaft area will answer the 'throttle shaft' issue in about 15 seconds. If they don't respond, indicating shafts that aren't leaking (and this merely means you dial down the mix screws to give fuel to match if there IS a leaky shaft response) then what do you do? Putting Webers on there will result in the same synchronisation/anomaly you currently have. The 'leaking shafts' is way overblown. You can adjust them pretty well even when leaking pretty good... That's an interesting Weber, but they will have the same issues as any SU in regards to synch, and that linkage looks... well it looks! You DO realize this kit you linked is for a Triumph, so you're going to modify the bracket as a minimum... Ray did a lot of custom work to make them go, and from what I'm reading they don't have a vacuum advance port so you loose that...hello custom recurve distrubutor (what was that cost again?) Like I mentioned in the other thread, the Flat-Slide carbs are available as well, and have better performance potential. If the costs are that critical...well...I don't know what to say. I can run a lot of old SU's for the cost of that kit! "Good Carburetor" is an oxymoron!

The impeller rollers on the turbo pump are wider than on the N/A pump, this results in the extra flow capacity. Stand the two pumps side by side and you will see the physical difference in the pumping section width. That's about it, internal pressure bypass is identical. Pressure is just a reflection of restriction to flow, btw; if you have no flow, you can't make pressure...

good luck, I'm back from overseas, but still on the wrong timezone. I should have taken vacation and gone to the salt for decompression!

Get out the degree wheel, dial indicators, and start running your profile. That's the only way to tell what you have...

A Non-Detergent Oil will let all machining swarf fall to the bottom of the pan. It's not uncommon during break-in for some people to glue cow magnets to the pan, and the oil filter. The non-detergent lets all the loose bits go to the bottom and settle out, instead of being held in suspension (which is what detergent packages do). Once the rings seat (some people check compression or leakdown) go to your normal oil. Most people won't run ND oils more than 500 km. And then switch to 'regular' oil they plan to use at 1000km. There is a debate over synthetics. Porsche now starts with Mobil-1 from day one, and simply says 'live with the oil consumption'... I am pretty much in that camp as well. If the compression is sealing adequately all you do is add abnormal wear to the engine letting it seat in 'fully' and this can be over 50K km in some cases. I'd rather have that mileage as added lifetime. (BMW did tests where they were still showing compression increases and decreased ring friction at 30K miles!) What amount of oil will you use in that time period? 25 liters? Wuh! Backbreaker on the pocketbook there, eh? I digress... Give me a break, it's 1AM and I'm writing urgent reports for the Philippines...which appear to have been now totally transmitted, and so therefore I can go to sleep!

good, cheap pick one. Is there such a thing as a 'good carb'?

Soon, only those who truly appreciate the car will be able to afford it, and I can start selling parts off the hoarding...