Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I have always been partial to the GM 3.8 engine. I, for the life of me, couldn't figure out how GM could get that engine so right, yet Ford put such a literal slug of a 3.8 engine in the Mustang.
I would often say: "That Mustang would be a great little car if they would put GM's 3.8 Supercharged GEN3 engine in it!" It wasn't a Ford/Chevy Jibe---it's just that at the time the engine in the Mustang blew so badly it wasn't funny.
I mean, the 350Z had more power. Guys would say 'apples and oranges'---but it's a Mustang for gawd's sake! Just because you didn't want a V8 in there doesn't mean you don't care about performance!
My bud was upset he couldn't trade his Hemi Dodge Truck in for the Hemi Challenger during the recent gubbmint madness. The V6 Challenger apparently would have qualified, but he said 'why?'
That GM 3.8 would pull low 30's for mpg in the Bonneville SSE I had for a while. Amazing. Such a sweet engine. And if you kept out of the Supercharger you weren't paying the gas penalty (12mpg...) So versatile, too!
Ford should have bought those for their Mustang till they pulled their head out and started making decent power with their V6. What they had in the past was sickening.
Did I mention I hated prior Mustangs with V6's because they had a soggy mill with no power?
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I think the best thing is.. Where is phill.. Ive been waiting for update for along time
WOAH THERE!
This is not a 'best' discussion. Nobody has told me an answer to the question I posed, other than cosmetics or theoretical nebulosity. I stated outright I did not know just that it seems to me if E-Motive got 1000hp out of that engine, then I really wonder WHY that huge TB is there. Do you really need it. I have already stated that if there is someone who wants it there, that's fine by me. But if someone is stating factually, or implying that it in somehow is better suited than a smaller TB---I would like to know why.
Best is determined by the use of the machine, and it's application. As I stated, maybe this is a Drag Race Part, and in that realm it is properly aplplied. Similarly, when its applied (say like an 1100 Holley Dominator) onto a roadrace or street application of half the horsepower....is it helping or harming that application?
Maybe Phil is DOING something. If he's up on the dyno, it would seem it would be easy enough with that intake to prefab several adapter plates and put a Q45, 75mm, 70mm, 65mm, 60mm, 55mm, and 50mm TB on there with a dedicated intercooler return pipe to do back-to-back comparos for which setup INDEED would be "Best for Phil"---and damned interesting to boot. If I had the time, I'd swing by the dyno and assist, hell, even chip in some money for the Dyno Time such is my interest in this particular subject.
Understand, I have to build an engine to run at Bonneville... Anything that will get me significant WOT HP will be of interest to me. It will be a highly purpose-built motor, so I'm not worried about Tip-In or that kind of modulation crap. What I need I can make out of a nautilis linkage, no problem.
But if I find I make significantly more torque which will allow me to accelerate through the gears quicker, and assist me when pulling wider spreads...all by using something smaller than a Q45 body, or something Humongo, then I have to defer to the functional demands of the setup.
I'm asking why, and thusfar there really hasn't been 'I tried this on the dyno and found' kind of an answer, nor has any real convincing evidence been proffered as to why 'bigger is better' after a given diameter or horsepower level.
As it is, I will likely have to build the intake...oh waitaminit, we're not using a single air door... or will we? That all remains to be determined!
Remember, the GT-R comes with triple style butterflies, and these guys change to a big single... There's no way the 6 opened 45mm butterflies are anywhere near the cross sectional area of the single. At least not by looking at it. Most of these 'big body' RB plenums are actually a step down in size from the flow potential of the existing butterflies. Which reinforces my question 'why are these guys downsizing the throttle area'?
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If you could see the valvetrain on the subject of that You Tube Post...
Well, let's just say, it's not what most people expect. The prep work in this sticky is far more than what we did on that one...
And we have had it 'higher' than the shift point during dyno testing to see the extent of the curve and try to find a 'float point' on the valves.
We were...uh....'unsuccessful' in that float-point attempt. That's all I'm gonna say about it.
It tempers my comments about nits and nats on this subject!
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You read all the stickies, but you didn't say what remedies you have tried, or if you have a shielded wire for the TPS, or wether it's running near the coil, etc etc etc...
If you see it with the ignition on, and not off, something is too close to where it shouldn't be, or you don't have a good shield on the tps signal line, or....
The question really is what have you done already to fix it?
I changed plug wires, and it went away, and my TB is REALLY close to the coil! One I put shielded wire in there, and got good wires, I ceased seeing the spikes.
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Restrictors go before the turbo. The VG30DETT made 1100HP without the IMSA required 26mm restrictors on the turbo inlets. They had a bigger T/B, but as far as I know E-Motive was not running in a restrictor plate series at the time... I never said the E-Motive car had a 60mm TB, I simply stated it was sure smaller that the 90 mm unit being used. I could scale a photo or someting to figure it out. I would suspect something along the size of their turbo piping was used, if not slightly larger for a "WOT No Restriction" flow scenario.
If there is a restrictor before the turbo, maybe there is some logic for it (going appreciably larger than normally seen)? I recall the #75 IMSA car had a decent sized body (single). But the driver of the car said the car was more driveable with the restrictors as it gave them more useable torque down low than the unrestricted engine(Steve Millen).
For the time they were doing the development on the E-Motive car, they went though a lot of development---they may have taken an idea, or two... but I believe they were independent enough to let dyno results rule the decisions they made and not 'go with the flow'... They DID run twin turbos in 81, and ditched that idea pretty quickly (especially after the fire...)
Come to think of it, outside Drag Racing... which nobody specifically stated was the purpose of the build, I don't know that a lot of 'roadrace' cars have humongo TB's... Decent sized, maybe...but not absolutely huge. I will have to do some investigation there, that sounds like an interesting study to do.
I know Drag Cars have big stuff, and it may indeed be someone simply misapplying the technology because it 'looks cool' and like Millen Mentioned makes a peak power number, but at the expense of power under the curve.
I can see in practical terms up to probably 75mm. That would be the largest practicable pipe you would use for about any horsepower level in these engines. But 90? That's what 3.5" or something like that?
Bulges "up" in size will also affect flow without the proper taper lead and exit...
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Wow.... it only took them... what? 40 years?
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"It is not appropriate to store trout in your dungarees."
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cYOV8uu17t0 one of my favorite Nuge songs!
I think that was filmed at the Rock Palast in Germany... I have that VCD/DVD...
Couldn't get to the concerts then...Missed the Pontiac Silverdome incident... Gotta Support your Michigan Adopted Homeboys!
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I took my kid to see Ian Anderson. I think it damaged him...
When he went to see Kansas and BOC it didn't do any better!
When he showed up one day with a 'GWAR' T-Shirt on I busted out laughing and said THOSE guys are STILL around?
After that comment, he started raiding my CD Stack, and found out there was music in there.
Then again, he took Frank Zappa's "Yellow Shark" into Music Appreciation Day in his 7th Grade Music Class. THe instructor confiscated it, ripped it, then waited for me to pick him up at school to thank me for letting him bring it in! When you see your son standing by the curb with the Music Teacher and a CD in his hand...its "Oh MAN! He took George Clinton in, and not that orchestral Zappa!" LOL
Contractors at the house were shocked when he was 6 and knew 'Atomic Dog'...
Am I a bad parent? LOL
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I don't know what JeffP put on his car, or what it cost, but the cost per amp is comparable...and it's BIG. There is no substitute for size in a generator.
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Look for a Service Bodied Work Truck. My acquaintenace here bought a 2002 City of Los Angeles DWP 3500 Chevy for $1000 from an auction reseller. Guy bought it at auction for $300. Has put thousands of miles on it. Not the pretty truck, not a lot of comfort options, but it's got a SERVICE BED on it that you can literally load every tool you own into it and STILL tow your car on a trailer! He gets 15 unladen, but he also resembles Fred Sanford in both physical appearance and driving habits...
I'd opt for a 99 or similar vintage F350 service body truck. I worked out of one for a while (3 years, 100K miles) and it towed fully laden fine. With the new programmers out there, you really want OBD2 on the car, and not the old TBI OBD 1 Systems like I have in my 90 Dually. Then again, I got my Dually for $1500. What astounds me is I put 5000 miles on it this past year, and officially I've only been in the office 21 days this year! When I'm home, the dually is working more than I ever thought! I thought I'd use MAYBE 2500 miles. I think if you get a DECENT truck, you will use it FAR morethan you expect. You don't think of it now, because you don't have one. When you have one, the ease of using it to make work easier, moving crap (YOUR OWN CRAP, not other peoples! Make that CLEAR to your 'friends'!) the list is really endless.
For me, the Dually gets maybe 10 driving the way I do...
And my old "1 ton" single wheel would get 15-17 (diesel)...
But I can take in ONE load what would take me 2 trips in the stnadard bed single tire version. (4000# of Railroad Ties, for instance, or a 17X36 Cincinnatti Milacron Engine Lathe...) Don't need it often, but when you do, there is no substitute!
Get over the mileage issues. I had that F350 at 100K in 2002 when I left it, that truck is STILL in service now, 10 years later, and racking up the same kind of mileage I did. I figure it's got 300K+ on it by now! For occasional work, your mileage fears are WAY unfounded!
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Its just neat to think about how far cars and their technology have come from our 40 year old cars.
I'm on the other end, I'm rather disapointed that the aftermarket has pretty much not moved at all from where it was 25 years ago when the L-Engine went out of production. The power hasn't changed... There really are very few ideas for maximizing horsepower. Many talk of this or that as a 'new' innovation, but really there are only so many ways to skin a cat...
Really, nothing startling has happened to make power levels rise above where they were in 1984 for an aftermarket engine setup.
I guess I'm just a pessimist.
As for the OEM's... argh. IMO they are forced to go in the wrong direction, and being in Japan right now I see a whole plethora of Kei Cars I'd buy and drive back home....if I was allowed! I got to stop now...I'll get into trouble, as I'm in a foul mood to begin with anyway!
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Normally the filters will bulge, or the base gaskets blow out if the oil pressure is that high. WELL before a GOOD oil pressure sending unit will pop.
My bet is latent defect in the sending unit, given the oil filter doesn't looke bulged, and it's base gasket is in tact.
I have had people blow that oil filter base gasket while driving down the freeway, you would be amazed how much oil can coat underneath the car while going 70mph before dripping or hazing the guy behind you! Luckily in that case, he saw oil pressure flickering and smelled something, so he declutched and shut down with about 20CC's short of catastrophic engine failure. We put a new filter on at the roadside, and put 5 quarts in his sump to get it to the 'operation' level (above 'add', not into 'full')....
He made a gasket retaining ring out of aluminum to prevent that from happening in the future, so the base gasket now has something radially to seal against as well, like a real O-Ring housing. The only way that one blows is if the filter splits!
(And I've seen that happen on VW's with Aluminum Spin-On Filters---always get a STEEL housing!)
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"My L18 pulled over 8k regularly, using mostly factory parts in the valve train (springs excluded)."
You would be shocked to know what the valvetrain looks like in this car (and yes, I DO have photos...somewhere!):
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Dope smokin' and trippin' hippie! Get a job ya bum!
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To give it all, and you will all go out and look now...
The F54 has the Detonation Sensor Hole, The Oil Filter bolt-on provision (some P30's also have this, but we're talking about L28 Blocks---specifically the N42 and F54...)
And............
(Drumroll Please)
A little hole/bolting divot on the right side 'ear' which is normally underneath the starter.
Looking at blocks on a pile, you can pick out the F54 from quite a distance by looking at that 'horn' for the hole/depression. When you see it, you will go "oh...yeah..."
Watch!
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It's Elaine Benis in disguise, there are no periods, only exclamations.
If we want to be anal about it.
Good to see someone so exicted about being anal...(!)
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would help if I mastered elementary math, huh?
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Muahahaha!
I doubt Yossarian would be a 'friend'...
If you find the book, you will see they are diametrically opposite.
But why ruin the journey? You will find out for yourself!
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I would probably take and put a whole bay of four posters in, and doublestack the cars, to give more open floor space to allow for working or moving. It sucks to have to move cars to work.
Then again, it sucks to work on dirt. AT least I'm up to Concrete now! Still outside, but nice, smooth, CLEAN concrete!
2400 Sq is like 30X40. I knew there was a reason I ordered a 40X80...(40X60 enclosed with a 20' overhang for working outside in the shade of the summer.) Alas it was not to be, thanks Riverside County Permits and Plans.
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Nugent and his Amboy Dukes: Journey to the Centre of the Mind
Amongst others...
THEN:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UN2VNFpiGWo
NOW:
"The 60's were good to the vocalist"
LOL!
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Below 100 amps at idle?
The important thing to consider is the alternator's output at idle as that will be where the drain and most strenuous demands on the electrical system will be...
There is very little reserve in the early 240 system. The later 83 ZXT's had 83A alternators, and even that was marginal at times with all accessories running.
Add a big stereo, 30 AMP electrical fan, maybe a 10 AMP Electric Water Pump and the additions overwhelm the stock alternator at full production.
At idle, you're basically running your battery. And since you can't keep up with the load even while at speed, eventually you kill the battery from excessive cycling.
Many of the alternators out there start with voltage that is O.K. but when heat-soaked, they go everywhere under the sun. JeffP is in the process of installing an alternator that will provide 95 Amps at IDLE. This will take care of his 30Amp Fan (real fans move real air, and air movement means horsepower, and horsepower means amperage!) and not make those nice High Beam 100W headlights dim when the bass beats on his stereo.
If it's not much bigger in diameter than a stock alternator, chances are output falls off pretty quickly at idle speed. To get amperage at idle, you need diameter to get windings and 'turns cut'. You can get all sorts of GM style alternators that will adapt easily enough to the Z. It doesn't have to come in a Nissan Case. It may make the bolting in easier, but really there's more to it than just bolting in the alternator. If your power lead (I replaced mine in my 260ZT with 6 Gauge Wire...) is rotted, corroded, or just downright undersized for the higher amperage you try to push through it, all you're doing is asking for trouble in the form of heat. Heat deep down in a wiring harness no less!
Take some time to think on the big picture on an alternator upgrade. Many people find that a simple headlight relay system solved 'flared lights' because of limitations within the stock wiring harness and it's ability to carry anything over the stock loads.
And this hasn't changed, my wife was amazed at how bright her Frontier lights got when I put relays on it which were fed by 12 gauge wire. STOCK LIGHTS! The stuff they had in there may have been 16 gauge, maybe 18. Man, I wouldn't wire a relay coil with the wire they used for Headlights with a 55 watt rating!
We got mass-produced cars made for the lowest cost possible, when you start upgrading, you really need to think about what the original system was designed to do, and if it will handle all this newfound power (or whatever)...
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freeze plugs (more)
Nope! You are thinking about the L24 P30 (early) block and the L28 N42 and F54 . The early blocks have 3 CORE plugs-on between each pair of cylinders, whereas both the L28 Blocks have five (I think...) one between each cylinder.
I'm asking about the right side (the easy one to see) between F54 and N42...
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I knew there was a good use for Girts on the wall: RIM STORAGE.
My life is complete, knowing that now.
It is also miserable at seeing it...maaaaan! Nice garage.
I think I will show this to my wife, "See honey, even with a nice garage, he's got cars in the yard as well!"
LOL
What size is the building, BTW? I think I saw links to this place during construction...
What's the stupidest thing your previous owner did?
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I bought a 1969 Beetle one time which had nothing but roof flashing, fiberglass, bondo, and roofing tar for heater channels. How the thing did not collapse under it's own weight is beyond me. The 'repair' extended to the running board, which was slathered in the stuff as well from the underside. From all appearances, it looked like that 80 year old guy just didn't want rust to be a problem (He told us as much, too!)
Hey, he was 80, he must know his stuff, right?
No, it just means he's had the entire developmental time of the automobile to perfect his sales lies and learn underhanded tricks most others have forgotten!
Be advised in 40 years or so, if you see some guy with a bunch of Datsuns 'selling out of the hobby' BEWARE, I got som PAYBACK on a whippersnapper or two who knows it all... Just to keep the cycle perpetuated!