Tony D

No, he does not have a point. There is a REASON he puts drain cleaner in quotations. It's an OBVIOUS ploy at trying to be smart, which isnt' the case here at all. You want it plain and simple: you violated any one of a number of federal guidelines relating to unpermitted disposal of industrial wastes. BTW, where did you find the 55 Gallon size liquid plumbr drum at Costco? There is a reason they limit it to maybe a gallon. You are NOT on an industrial sewer, you are on a residential service. Look again at what is permissible in your sewer and likely you will find that you are in SERIOUS violation of not only FEDERAL but LOCAL guidelines as well. It's not the matter of what you interpret the substance to be, the VOLUME of what you used was a violation, and that it was NOT used as a drain cleaner, but was by your own admission a byproduct of an industrial process (not wise on a public forum, BTW) means you knowingly violated statutes by disposing of industrial waste byproducts improperly in a residential sewer system. You're talking to the guy who was responsible for continuous monitoring of a 20,000+ GPD Clarifier. A clarifier which got to the point of continuous monitoring becuase we exceeded our permitted copper content by such a ridiculous ammount it's laughable. The fee was literally .28 cents. The continuous monitoring to prove we exceeded our permitted conditions only that one time, on only that one substance, was closer to $150,000. We could sewer caustic, and did drumloads at a time. Our permit conditions dictated the Ph of the sewered water---and like said previously between 6 and 9 there was no problem. A simple shot of HTH or other acid would have turned your caustic drum into legally sewerable saltwater. Dumping 50 gallons of industrial waste byproduct (untreated) down a residential sewer doesn't remotely tirgger the common sense clause of 'somthing I probably shouldn't be doing?' If not, then likely you think the Toxic Avenger is a wonderful movie with seanic tourisim spots like Camden and Newark... You didn't dump 'drain cleaner'---bottom line is you dumped untreated industrial waste down your home sewer. For the effort required to properly treat it being so simple and so little (sorry mods) it strikes my as incredibly stupid.

There is something eeriely sexual about that 'buck pole'... I have never seen them trussed up in that manner before. It leads me to wonder what kind of marinade you guys plan on using...

Same as what I read. Talking with the Electromotive guys, they said they overbuilt the cooling system, and paid a penalty for it (more weight for exchangers, etc) but they NEVER had a DNF that was cooling related. Their statement was 'you can always cover a cooler, but if you get hot during a race, you're screwed!' Note the S20 head, LY head, and even the FIA L-Series heads had a totally different cooling passageway setup with a street driven setup. These were engines designed for high specific output and racing from the factory. The LY24 was over 300HP, the S20 in racing form was 340+, and the FIA heads... well the LY was quoted as around 5% more power, so I can only figure the FIA head was a response to that same level of power (300HP). Cooling is a bear, and always overlooked. Nissan recognized the requirement for a different setup to keep these aluminum heads cool under continuous racing environments. There are improvements to the head that will allow considerable flow increases for cooling, they just need to be implemented, and in most cases people aren't willing to put that much into a head for a street car. For a LeMons car, all that cam is likely overkill. A stock low compression L28 was eating the field for 8 hours in Reno, and was competitive at Thunderhill the year before. As for rate of heating, look around many pit areas and see if you find oil heating blankets on the oil sumps (or on wet sump pans)---hot oil is what you want, the rest of it will handle itself pretty quickly on the warmup lap. But that oil needs to be hot NOW when you start the engine! But we digress...

I love the 'wife rationalization' ofthe costs involved. When you buy $50 at a junkyard, you got $50 worth of parts. That's what makes junkyards great, there is no marketing involved. a Momo Steering wheel that sells for $500 in the Sports Accessories Shop sells for $2 there in the JY. And likely, that's about a 400% profit on what it cost to produce anyway. Junkyards are the Ayn Rand Equivalent of Automotive Stores, everything trading for it's worth, and not what someone says it's worth! The only way you got $3000 worth of parts for $50 is if you resold them for that much. I don't know about anybody else, but I'm a hoarder. I don't sell what booty I privateer out of JY's.

My bet is any 'lag' you are experiencing from that turbo setup is a result of asking too much from the combination. Lag is defined as the time from WOT to Full Boost Pessure. In EVERY case I have investigated in the last 10 years, EVERY one of them had no discernable lag. Less than a fraction of a second. Many cases the time from WOT to Full Boost was less time than 0.2 of a second (datalogging). EVERY case of people complaining it took 2-3 seconds for 'full boost to come on' were from driving the car in the wrong gear for the speed. If you are not driving the car correctly (that meaning you are keeping the rpms below boost threshold) the car WILL NOT make full boost until that rpm point where boost threshold is met. Above that point, boost is instantaneous. This is no different than driving a cammed car: you have to drive it right for it to perform right. Nobody floors a 3.2 at 700 rpms and expects it to rocket away from the stop sign. For some reason when they add a turbo, they expect it to! I'm prone to agree the placement of the throttle plate will have far more effect on how a change in throttle position will 'feel' than ANY affect it will have on 'lag'. If you take the compressor output under wastegate closed positions, and calculate that output in liters per second, then compare it with the actual volume of ALL your piping, including the intercooler you will see that it will not take seconds to fill up the piping. It won't even take fractions of seconds. Realistically, with higher flowing turbos, the LAST thing they need to worry about it 'lag' but insufficient piping volume as the pressure rises so fast from the high efficiency cut wheels today, that you can actually surge because the pressure rises so fast! If you are talking about 'low end' differences, my bet is that you aren't driving the car properly for the turbo applied to it. Many people with larger turbos have found that improperly driving the car (WOT before boost threshold) gives them more modulation capability as they can feather the throttle as boost comes on...they refer to it as 'using the lag to their advantage' but that's not what they are doing. There is no lag. They are simply using the most inefficient part of the flow map to give them subpar power they can control. Most turbo cars are a case study in misapplications of wheels, gears, and in most cases turbos. I'm thinking where you have the T/B won't make any difference in practical terms of 'lag reduction'. It will, however have an impact on how the throttle movement is perceived by the occupants of the vehicle. The turbo will do what it will do, regardless of the placement of the component. And the difference in 'lag' you can find simply by comparing the plenum volume before and after the proposed modifications. If you aren't shortening the intercooler piping since you've already changed that configuration (and from the looks of it, you are just moving where the valve is in a relatively straight run of piping) he volume will remain the same regardless of where the valve is placed. In any case, the volume difference, compared to L/S of turbo output will give you exactly the time change you can expect to experience with the change. Be ready to work to the right of the decimal point to some extent, most turbos make several (10's) of liters a second, and most piping is less than 10 liters meaning 1/3rd of a second under proper conditions is the 'worst case'. Having a properly sized compressor bypass/blowoff valve will keep pressure in the actual piping somewhat higher than atmostpheric on drop throttle, so in effect you will only be partially pressurizing the piping, with the downstream side of the manifold being the only portion requiring true 'repressurization'. And this is what was being referred to as the perception of response. All you really will be doing is repressurizing the manifold.This will be mere fractions of a 1/10th of a second. Even at 4 Liters!

Standard was Phenolic for heat transfer stoppage, second most popular was the anti-vibration isolators which utilized plastic of some type, and O-Rings. I wouldn't mount them to the manifold directly with just a gasket. But that's just me.

To paraphrase Mr. Shep Proudfoot: "Don't know Kit, Can't Vouch for it." And I don't need Shep comin' lookin' fer me sayin' I vouched fer somethin' he never vouched fer!

Anyone will tell you that natural surge point is determined by ambient conditions. Without those being specified, no accurate prediction can be made. Control point is normally 5% below natural surge point. My experiments have shown me around 21-22 psi on a 60% RH day with 25C Ambient Temperature seems to be about the limit. Anything else regarding running close to 16psi will be covered in the archives... such as eating up your thrust bearing, etc... Anything about 10psi is really starting to get out of the design parameters of the stock turbo. You can go further, but it's efficiency drops dramatically. And it's not that great to begin with!

Define RRFPR, many people mistakenly refer to manifold referenced FPR's as 'rising rate' and say 1:1 RRFPR which is like "Freeze Plug" and "irregardless"---incorrect and outright misuse of the English Language. A manifold referenced FPR is normally used in all EFI applications because it keeps the pressure drop across the injector pintile the same regardless of load. Additionally, when under high manifold vacuum, it effectively 'decreases' the size of the injector by running less pressure through it, making for a longer pulsewidth at idle---easier to control larger injectors cleanly. Rising Rate FPR's have ratios of manifold pressure to fuel pressure, like 1:2 or 1:3, whatever. This means that under boost, as you increase boost pressure 1psi, fuel pressure will increase 2 or 3 psi depending on the ratio chosen. At 20psi of boost, with a regular FPR, you will have static pressure of say 45psi and then the boost referenced correction, meaning you have 65psi in the rail. With a 2:1 RRFPR, under the same situation, 45psi static, and 20psi of boost, you will have 45+ (20X2), or 45+40=85psi. With a 3:1 RRFPR, under the same situation, 45psi static, and 20psi of boost, you will have 45+ (20X3), or 45+60=105psi. As you can see, under boost, you will get considerably more fueling for the same pulsewidth at 105, or even 85psi, than you will from a standard FPR running 65psi. The percentages are easy enough to figure out. This allows you to run the N/A fueling map with it's set Millisecond pulsewidths, and get more fuel to the engine. On an N/A engine, the RRFPR would be a total waste of money outside the ability to adjust the fuel pressure. Now, that being said, there IS about a 7psi differential between idle and WOT. Meaning fuel pressure could be technically arranged to be slightly higher than idle pressure, or normal static/WOT pressure using a RRFPR, but it would take specific calibration steps to have it come into play. In this case you would use the RRFPR with the manifold vacuum attached and the engine running at idle to set what normally would be 'static' fuel pressure around 45psi (instead of the normal 26) This would result in you gaining 14psi over base (-7 to -11 psia manifold pressure at idle, closer to 15psia at WOT so 4 to 8psia differential, using the same multiplication ratios giving you an 8/12 to 16/24psi rise in fuel pressure at WOT) It's not normally used on N/A's it's easier to play with the thermal sensors on the car and get more fuel.

In my car with a 3.70 gearset, that's closer to 85-90mph than 60 anything

I laugh at stories of tragedy in the mountians. Especially if it entails partial consumption of the corpses by wild animals. It reminds us humans where we really sit in the big scope of nature.

Valve springless? You mean like the old Desmodromic Valves of the early 1920's... Really, there isn't anything all that much new for the ICE.

The adapters aren't much but a plate of aluminum with the different bolt patterns in it...maybe a stud or two. They're out there, but you can make 'em yerself with a drill press, jigsaw (or bandsaw), and a Hole Saw...

Nobody mentioned the obvious solution to the problem: Go out and buy another gun, just for this special occasion! Just bought a shirt for my son (Christmas Time, you know...) "WWTND" What Would Ted Nugent Do? My stock answer is: Kill it, gut it, and fry it up with onions and butter for the evening meal. When you start answering life's big questions like that, it becomes a whooooole lot simpler!

ZROSSA got it, all you needed to do was get some HTH from a Pool Supply company, and mix acid with it until the PH was near neutral, and then it could be LEGALLY sewered, even in California. Dumping it raw down the pipes was not... uh... well... I wouldn't have done that. Neutralization is simple enough. You just turn it into salt water. Basic Highschool Chemistry. (Get it Basic Chemistry?)

argh! It's PLENUM!!!!!!!! irregardless subosably pinticle now "plentum" ARGH!

Believe this or don't, but a trouble light under the hood of the car all closed up works wonders for freeze protection! 100 watt is nice, and you can put one on each side of the block. A 150 watt spotlamp will absolutely roast the thing. Bad thing: rodents are drawn to the warm area. Draw your own conclusions. Also, they make self-regulating heaters for oil pans that stick to the bottom---meant for air cooled aircraft engines. They also work GREAT for giving you a nice toasty engine on a cold morning. Me? I live in SoCal, it was 28 degrees the other day sez the wife. A bulb would work for that little dip, no issues. If I ran straight water. You gotta ask yourself, if you are running uninhibited water why NOT drain it when you leave. It's not like you can't get more. This is one of those "D'OH" moments where you will torture yourself until you see it in person. All you can do is hope for the best. If it's broken, it's just a block. Chances are VERY high you can transfer everything you have inside to another one.

Inflato-Sheep is on the prowl. In Japan, she was neatly placed atop the pillow each day when I returned back to the room. I have not deployed the housekeeper torture apparatus here in Johor yet. I should go to the lingere shop at the Holiday Shopping Center and get some small nighty or undergarments for it to leave strewn about as well...

What more people have to look at is Bryan's Quote: "It also looks like that with 600 ft lbs of torque and 700 plus RWHP, that the cylinder bores are not staying round, even with an extra thick block. I have sonic tested this block to be an average of .125" walls with an 89mm bore. I am now going with an 87mm bore with another extra thick block, to maintain more cylinder wall thickness for my HP and TQ numbers. " Remember my standard: Electramotive making 1000HP on a max 0.040" L28 Overbore. Making horsepower means flow and boost, in that order on an L-Series. Leave the big bores to the N/A guys. They are making over 400HP N/A in Japan on 8000+ rpm 3.2L strokers. For N/A and what you're going to get out of it, you can bore away. For the serious power you can make with the Turbo, keep the meat, leave the bores alone. You will see your HP will not suffer as much as you think, and it will be able to be recovered with more flow/boost.

Alas, I was summarily dropped at an inconvienient hotel, and was not able to follow up on the final purchase. I likely will need to be back to Japan now on a quarterly basis for the time being, so my hopes are high I will eventually get the 'free time' to follow this up. As for now, I'm in Malaysia. No cam billets there... Sorry, I'll check back in a month or so. These things take time.

You should have just stopped there... The Cartech Box is just that: A BOX. This is all extensively covered in MonZter's thread in Fuel Delivery Sub Forum. EXTENSIVELY COVERED. It's all there, you should search there and find it. SK did NOT 'copy' Cartech's box. And the rest is in the thread mentioned.

It's well known the stock washer is unacceptable as it bows. JeffP's usage of the Volvo washer (similar thickness as the one photo'd by TimZ) along with the KA Damper bolt (longer for the increased thickness) will keep it from bottoming and securely clamp it. If you don't like Chris's answer, go get one from ATI. The design is dictated by the OEM limitations and requirements. More than likely it's inadequate clamping that let yours move (from the stock washer) than from repeated removals. That is only one thought to why it's moving. The washer is critical, and it likely more at fault in your case than any number of removals and reinstallations. It's only an issue of longevity in two instances: Improper Securing of the unti to the crank, and peroper securing, but with ultra extreme usage (high torque, high revs). If you're not in the 300+ RWHP N/A range, or like Bryan & JeffP/TimZ, chances are it's improper installation. Welcome to the world of high performance racing parts where you take your parts out the door with no warranty, express or implied... Like I said, there's always ATI.

Christmas-shmishmash! We want RESULTS DAMMNIT! Drop everything and kow tow to our mob mentality right this instant Phil. Do it, or we kill the dog!

Say it again! People say you need to hear something three times before it sinks in, the logic was placed out there a page or so ago in the same form by me as well. It works fine without the boost controller on it, but starts having problems when the BC is connected. This is what I talk about when people get stuck convincing themselves it's one component, and are totalling ignoring clear troubleshooting evidence that they HAVE SOLVED THEIR OWN PROBLEM and isolated the cause of the trouble. You have trouble with BC Connected. You have NO trouble with BC Disconnected. BC or it's plumbing is the problem. Anybody remeber proofs in High School Geometry. People who could do them well will follow the above three lines. It's really that simple. Look to the isolated problem now, and forget about the latest and greatest wastegate Phil!

Blocking the radiator should work, shunting water on the bypass line (10mm line) to the inlet of the pump may not be enough. You may want to try a temporary larger bypass line to recirculate more water in the block itself (artificial bypass of the radiator). It is totally possible in colder climates with a good clean radiator that simple radiation from the radiator will reject enough heat to overcool the suction side of the pump. Then, the 'bypass line' around the front (or back, depending on the year) will not supply enough uncooled water to bring the water temperature up to normal operational temperature. 160 IS TOO COLD IN THE WINTER! You should be running a hot thermostat in the winter, and cold in the summer. Even in SoCal I do that change from 72C during the summer, to 80C during the winter. Helps with the heater output. If you have a 200F thermostat, run it and see what you have then. It will stay closed and recirculate the bypass line. Really, the bypass line should be larger in colder climates so as the thermostat stays closed, there is sufficient flow for the pump to push at speeds off idle. If you are talking about not reaching temperature idling, THIS IS POSSIBLE. You have to drive the car and put some LOAD on it to be able to heat it up. Even on cooler days in SoCal I will not even get to 160F idling my car with a four core radiator in it, it will sit there at 155, 157F. It will not get to 160-170 (fully open thermostat) until I take it on the road and give it the first shot of boost! Then it's stable there till I bering it back home and idle it down for cooldown.