Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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no no no no no no no!
Send it in to Overnight AM Coast-to-Coast. Post it on their website. Mention that it's near HANFORD.
Oh man, the comments there would be interesting to read!
Delete the logical explanation here quickly before it's recorded on one of those webcrawlers, and let them explain the gubbmint conspiracy involved in it's concealment.
Obviously the problems in your yard happened when the flying gubbmint black UFO you unwittingly photographed flew over your house and your things were flattened by it's impulse drive engines!
(Yeah, you got it, I arrive late in the evening to LAX and listen to AM radio on the way home... My Late Aunt Renee loved George, and she was so excited to learn I knew who he was.)
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Oil/Water as primary, which will bring it down to X temperature, and then your original Air/Oil unit mounted as a supplemental to trim another couple of degrees off of it...all controlled with an Oilstat to keep the oil temperature constant.
You can always cover excess cooler, but if you don't have enough, yer screwed!
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I don't know what the 'velocity over flow' or 'fluid dynamics at WOT' is in the way of a justification. The Electramotive TB was pretty small, definately not 90mm. And they were making what? Lets say 780HP... Arguably they spent WAY more time at WOT than the average street driven Z-Car so I'm thinking I should defer to those guys' engineering analysis on 'velocity over flow' or 'fluid dynamics at WOT'...
I'm not saying I have an answer, and I'm not denigrating a 90mm TB. I just ask the question if Electramotive and their engineering brain trust (which is easily more brain power than is in my head) decided on that specific size, I have to wonder other than cosmetics would the larger TB have? Cosmetics is fine, but the real measure is functionality. If it works, then it works. But if you can get by with something smaller and it doesn't affect functionality, smaller isn't inferior.
As for the large/small/large comment, an orifice is a good thing to have monitoring flow from non-linear compressor when feeding a receiver or suction bottle of a reciprocating compressor. This has to do with the sensitivity of the centrifugal machine to surge during loading and unloading. At WOT, having the restriction (the TB) makes for a convienient place to use as a guide where to position the unloading (blowoff) valve. It makes the compressor section unload (drop pressure) slightly differently than that part of the compressed air system behind the TB (the plenum). It lets the engine suck down what is in the plenum, and unloads the compressor side of the equation slightly more efficiently. Without that small restriction, the dynamics of the unload through the blowoff is different...
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That's why they make stand-offs!
Mine goes on an aluminum 'hat' that sits the ECU above the carpet 1/2" or so, and then has a 'cover' to prevent the horsehair from falling on it (or whatever Datsun Cushions are made of...)
The idea came to me not so much from guys putting monster amps under there, but the fact that in the 10-Series Cars (Like the Maxima, and several JDM Cars) that is where Nissan put the ECU! Under the passenger seat, matter of fact. Makes a nice donor harness for a Z, BTW...
I might also note that leaking seals may be a reason to get them fixed so they don't leak...
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680CC or 1680cc?
I know someone who used 1000cc injectors in his TBI setup and they weren't idling as best as they could.
Eventually went down to 720's and got a decent idle.
I forecast 2 X 550CC's, as if they supported a 215HP Ford V8, I figure they could support my measly little Datsun. That works out to what? 110PPH, at 1/2 # per HP per Hr for an N/A, that's right around 220 hp, and with an 80% limit that's still 160-170HP. Though those Ford Injectors may be rated on the 'low' side. For a realatively sedate L6, a pair of 550's should be fine. For a Stock Conversion damn tootin enough. I doubt many would ever need 720, but my bud was ultra conservative and paid the price in idle quality.
I don't know if the TBI is governed by the same 80% duty cycle as port injection...
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Call up MSA or Schneider, and ask. They use CWC cores.
At $3 for every 30 seconds on the phone, I think right now, that is not an option...
NTT is not cheap to call mobile to landline.
And I'll be jiggered if any of them are there over the Thanksgiving weeked.
I'm just going to take it as stated, they have 'lugs' like the stock Datsun stuff, and the 'hex' is an independent billet produced in Japan.
The inquiring will now start. Okamura will be busy on the phone asking 'technical questions'---I can see it!
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retarding the timing is a way to slow down the engine. Lock the advance weights in a distributor and see how sprightly the car accelerates...
Advance is best dealt with on a dyno, add till you stop gaining power, then back it off a comfortable safety margin. Less is wiser than more. Generally you don't want any more than you absolutely need.
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So "A" Early cam likely Nissan Early Production (NLA) so that begs the question, what does the CWC Cam Look Like
(Which was the point of the post.)
Doubt it's hexagonaly oriented, and it doesn't have 'Japan' on it...
But a confirmation they have lugs (or don't) is the purpose of the post.
Bueller?
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It does, but the effect on spark scatter is really not that important on most applications. When you drop throttle there is 'slop' in the gear of a fraction of a degree. You can measure it with an indicator. But on the rotor position it's irrelevant, for a trigger wheel driving a COP setup it might affect it, but...
In theory absolutely, it is a factor. But in practical matters it's not an issue.
You're not planning on going to 9500+ are you?
(We did run the Tec2 with that drive to higher rpms---over 9500---and that setup worked as well. But we ended up having issues with the O2 feedback circuit, and changed the system. But it wasn't making an appreciable difference on our setup. Maybe it would on a Turbo Car at 30 psi + boost running to 9500+ rpms it might. But that is not my instance, so though even in theory there is a 'problem', it was not a practical consideration.)
And you're right about the popping out of gear: syncho or heavy gearshift...
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rods are forged from the get-go on the nissan L
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For LHD cars:
Under the Seat
Behind the seat on the compartment bulkhead wall (or in the compartment)
Same place as a 280Z, using it's brackets and kick panel cover, modified (PITA, under the seat is easier and like mentioned your foot is always all over it)
For RHD Cars:
BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX...IT'S CAVERNOUS! Because it fits so well up inside there, I have not thought to mount it anywhere else on those cars. Later cars have AC a lot of the time, and it interferes with mounting them there, but on a RHD car, the stock mounting place for an ECU does not interfere with the driver's dead pedal!
Depending on the ECU, 'in the engine bay' is also an option.
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Oh man, I hope Frank280ZX doesn't see those widebody kits with the door bulges...
I only got so much space on the plane!
Checking through Yahoo Auctions myself, since I'm there now (Japan)... Getting the guys at work to translate annoys them, except the guy with the MX5, who now takes great pains to make sure 'I'm attended to properly'---which means spending time translating auctions for me instead of doing what he's paid to do (engineer) LOL
Domo Arigato, Okamura-san!
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/Treads Conspiriatorialy/
What, no prices listed...
Muahahahaha!
/Slinks Off/
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Yeah, a ROAD TRIP over Memorial Day doesn't arouse suspicions. And a baseball bat ductape, tyvek suit, and a plastic drop cloth could be easily explained any number of ways during a traffic stop, especially if they look to be randomly arrayed around the back of your hatchback...
Now, if you also happen to have a collapsible entrenching tool, a bag of quicklime and a battery operated sawzall in there, you might not explain it too easily. "I'm visiting a friend to play softball and do some gardening later in the evening" just doesn't have the ring of truth to it, even to Bufurd T. Justice (or Barney Fife, for that matter!)
Some things are better paid for cash just before you need them.
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We can only comment as we are told things. If it was complexity, then this way;
if it's something else, then the answer is something else.
We ran an Electromotive TECII on our Bonneville Car at 8500 rpms with the distributor driven CAS they provided. They warned us it 'may not be as accurate' over 9000 rpms. So, don't EVEN get into the 'distributor slop' argument with this cowboy! :^) That one ain't flyin', more internet parrot talk on absolutist theory, very short on real-world application facts.
There is no investment here, BTW. It's all gone. An investment infers 'payback'---let me tell you right now, there is no payback, that time is gone forever and you will never get it back.
Which is why I said having a plan from the beninning with clear concrete goals and simply working toward it single mindedly will reap far more benefit than going over the same ground several times.
hell, I've got projects that are now 20 years in the making to find al lthe right parts. I'm content to drive it 'as is' till I get the components together. No disgrace in that, IMO. If it's driving and workable, then leave it till you can do it right, once and for all, and be done with it long term.
These engines when set up correctly, and sorted in the initial stages of 'commissioning' will turn into dead-reliable-as-new 'appliance vehicles' with outstanding performance. If there is a payback to be had, this is it.
But it's not related to the time you put in, I figure that's gone no matter what. You can put in all the time you want, and have the greatest appliance car in the world reliable and all... but one drunk, a slippery curve overcooked on a rainy day... and poof! It's all for naught.
All you will get is the 'now' of doing it. That is about the only payback to expect. If you enjoy the work, then the jouirney is more important than the destination. The destination takes care of itself, if you plan the journey well.
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A non-linear throttle cam will tame a large TB's tip-in response. The only reall application for such a large body is on someone racing with a LOT of flow, who wants to minimize pressure losses.
But even then, take a look at what size TB the Electramotive Turbo Engine used, and you will start to think (like I do) "If they didn't need that big a body, why do I need one that big?"
Looks impressive as hell under the hood, though...
I put a non-linear cam to actuate my Mikuinis because my wife said it had 'an on-off throttle' and she absolutely hated driving it. For that reason, the car was mine, exclusively... maybe that is what is on Big Phils mind...
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Why 1680CC? What kind of HP do you expect to be producing?
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Uh, define 'clean look'
When you don't use the SU's as an SU, you don't need the lines, a fuel rail between the two with fuel line coming in the back and out the front with a reg on it (or vice versa) is all the lines you need going to it. Wether you retain it or not in stock 'looking' configuration is up to you. I have seen plenty of 'sanitary' su setups.
The hoses on a 72 is the same as the hoses on a 69. I don't know what you're getting at by that comment. TWM makes SU bodies that use Bosch Style Injectors but they cost a hell of a lot more than $124 each.
Whatever. I'm sure when you make up you mind you will do something.
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I've never seen an un-lugged cam, that would make another permutation, probably NLA...
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. delete this post, d'oh!.
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Well, now lets not make broad generalizations like that...
There has to be someone who has a nice car that I can pick up for cheap after a tragedy like that...
Darwinisim has to pay off for someone... LOL
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Paul is correct, Nissan designed it so if the fuse blows at 10pm you won't be completely dark, its enough so you can still drive to get it repaired. Freaked me out the first time it happened to me.
Just one problem, corrosion anywhere in the system causes heat and burns up your fusebox and takes the stalk switch out as well. They switch ground and do not use relays... and because they fuse the power side and switch the ground dirt along the path really makes a mess of the early fuseboxes, and the switch stalks on the lates.
Likely the fuse was falling apart (as they seem to want to do these days) and jiggling it reconnected the overworked element. My advice: replace the fuses on the lights every two or three years at the outside, and you will never have to worry about driving someplace to fix your lights because an overworked fuse element got hot and 'sagged' out of the melted solder at the endcap...
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what about cleaning the connectors on the injectors and EFI system?
This problem is classic corrosion on the plugs symptoms. If someone searched, it would be revealed as such.
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Got to agree, MS-n-Se allows full timing curve programability in a 3d map according to MAP and RPM. There is a soft and hard rev limiter in the same program, first retarding the timing, then cutting fuel.
The datalogging is the same with the correct O2 sensor. Matter of fact, people I know have hooked up their MS boxes and used them as a datalogger to build a spreadsheet for some troubleshooting. You can datalog AFR, TPS, RPM, MAP right out of the box.
You probably need to do a bit more research if you missed these facts already. I don't know about megajolt, but if you have one, and can set it up and use it I'm darned sure you can run the simple MS-n-Se software and set it up as well.
What to do with a 280zx Turbo Donor with no Title ...
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Ahhhh! A fellow hoarder in the making!