Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Your only recourse is hooking resistors in series or parallel to restore the resistance drift caused by the harness or connectors. If you open the gauges you can do it there on the input circuitry.
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Oh, one of the mini-dewars. Praxair in Santa Ana is where you get the mice-feed CO2 as well. I guess LN2 would have worked.
When I think dewar, I think of the ones you could use to make into a pig roaster. We used those for shrinking liners into cylinders for the big Cooper GMVs (2 foot bore, 3 foot stroke, some of the compressor liners were even bigger!) Making a cooling jacket for the liner shrinkage was the most economical way, an open cylinder of LN2 that big for immersing a liner would not only displace the O2 and kill everybody in the shop... It'd make it damned cold as well!
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How do you pass on a two lane road is the same in an LHD or RHD car.
First, don't get so close behind the guy you can't see around him.
Then signal, floor it, get past him and return to your lane of travel.
I own 4 LHD cars, and have never had an issue passing on a two lane.
Matter of fact, towing an 800# TRAILER with my wife and son in the Fairlady Z 2/2 I didn't have problems passing. Especially below 65, as with the 3.90 I would be right alongside them smiling right at the drivers face as he freaked out at where I had my wheel, and shift...accelerating away strongly in third...
No problem. "If you can conceive it, you can achieve it!" as the saying goes...
Apparently that was the rest of what they had in the trailer on that trip. I unloaded the doors from the back of the pickup during that load I believe.
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Looks like a crosspost to me! And BRAAP, you missed it! Baaad Moderator, Baaaad Moderator!
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I missed it originally, and my 'example' car is 8000 miles away right now. The haynes manual is helpful, but you really need the ZX FSM, and reading the wire map will tell you EXACTLY where each wire in each connector will go.
They call out the pins by number (say 204) and then you look it up on the wiring chart on the back, and you will see in a matrix 204 starts here, goes there. By following that you can find the wires in the chassis, and on the diagram. You can flip between wiring diagram and that matrix and follow any wire throughout the whole chassis end-to-end.
That's the easiest way I found to do it if you dont' already know the answers.
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Ok efi bible has nothing to do with the injectors not firing, also injectors are not stiluck I made sure 100%
Well then, what can you do with that?
It does tell you that the injectors are triggered each third spark event. That means the car has to be cranking to get the injectors 'clicking'... that also means that you have spark events occurring, and with the injectors out of the rail, nice finely atomized fuel spraying everywhere.
If you truly believe they are not 'clicking' then disregard the following: Keep a BIG fire extinguisher handy.
Crank the engine over and see if they blow fuel. It's that simple. If you have no ignition events, then you won't get fuel. So despite being 100% sure it's fuel, you probably overlooked that part that without a functioning distributor AND functional coil with a field collapsing and producing a spark, you will not get fuel.
Just a thought from someone who's read that EFI Bible. Good Luck. Don't forget your Nomex!
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Why is casting involved in throttle body conversions? If you got SU's on the car allready...well:
Patton Machine has had SU drop-in GM TBI Conversion kits available for over two years now. I sent 52# of Datsun SU's off to him then and there is a set of his adapters running on a member's car in France at this very moment!
The Patton Adapters are very nice, and with a little work on the Suction Domes, nobody knows you modified anything! For $124 per carb, last the website was updated:
http://www.pattonmachine.com/Pricing.htm#Conversion_components_to_build_your_own_kit_
Because they use GM TBI injectors, the system is considerably lower pressure, so the stock fuel lines can be used, along with EFI rated fuel line for added security, making hookup a snap! No fuel rail needed, about a billion donor vehicles with a whole RANGE of injector sizes (get some for a 454SS Pickup and bet you have more than enough fuel for ANYTHING a Datsun will ever need!) and they are relatively cheap new at most auto parts stores.
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I have seen people (as others have mentioned) machine the thick spacers like that out of single thicknees material. Some shims laser or water jet cut out of 1/8" steel could be percision ground on a surface grinder with a magnetic chuck pretty nicely...
And we got a guy with a Water Jet machine on the board...
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... This gives me an idea...
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You don't have to get a nipple welded to your pipe!
Have the guy take a piece of 1/8 thick sheet or a block of 1/4" aluminum and simply weld it 'all round' to the underside of the IC return pipe (this way you get cool air).
When it comes time to plumb it in, you simply drill and tap a hole. The 1/4" thick aluminum is more than thick enough for threads, and you can use any standard threaded barb to install whatever size bypass like you like!
On steel J-Pipes I have successfully welded to them a piece of 1/8 X 1/2" strap steel and threaded it. Though a 1/4X 1/2" strap chunk 3" long ended up supplanting it once I found out how easy it was to tap into and take pressure off for this and that (like for pressure probes to check pressure at turbo outlet, I/C outlet and inlet, just before the TB, and to run RTD's in the same places as well.
it's an easy way to make a penetration to the piping without putting a permanent nipple in there, just a piece of flat stock. If you have steel piping, then all you need for materials is at home depot or lowes! Strap steel rack, here you come!
You can simply plug any hole you don't need, put a piece on there 3 or 4" long, and you got plenty of area for several hoses to come off.
Slightly wider and you can use the same technique to mount additional injectors, but we don't need to go there, do we? Muahahahaha!
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no it flows something like 21gpm constant. The LD pump is rated at 30 some at peak torque rpm of like 2400 engine speed (differnt pump speed)...
The pump will increase flow with increased speed. I really need to make up a pump dyno and take some readings on the pump to make a pump curve. That would solve the pump issue once and for all.
The Davies Craig Water Pumps are larger than the MSA, and work on variable speed as well. They perform well on some pretty strenuous applications, but they are not cheap.
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No thanks...
I would be out the $10,000 for that car, plus the $600+ for the LCA's I never got...
Oh, that's the status...
PM me, I have something from JeffP in my dually we can both use.
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..until the 280ZXT dizzy takes a random crap. And when it does, it craps in random failures, which mysteriously disappear after 20 minutes of cool down...
After 250,000 miles. That's an unfair characterization of the 280ZXT CAS. When the EDIS unit is 30 years old, we'll see how they are holding up.
Guys change the ED12-80 to GMHEI modules all the time due to cost, but it's not like the E12-80 is a 'failure prone' item, it did last what...25, close to 30 years? I am using a Performance GMHEI on my MS-n-Se and it shoots 4" blue-white sparks no problem. Don't need an EDIS for that! A whole $40 new. No trigger wheel hassles, no complexity. SIMPLE.
They would last another what? 25 years. Pretty good payback IMO.
The symptoms of the failure make it pretty clear to diagnose with the Freez-It.
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I was present at the Australian Muscle Car Masters Event at Eastern Creek this past year for the Kiwi-Oz shootout. During that time, no doubt some of the Kiwi rubbed off on me (or was that a Kiwi Rubbing off on me?)
Like Lanolin or Wool. It's persistent. Once it gets on you, it won't get off...
And yes, I DO travel with an inflatable sheep for entertainment purposes. I wonder what the TSA guys think when they see the world-worn sheep in there. I crave a pin camera to record housekeeping when the half-inflated night buddy is left half under the covers on the hotel bed. Sometimes its in a chair with the bed made up. Sometimes it's on the pillows. Sometimes (once) it was reinflated and put on a pillow on a chair in the room. I can only wonder the looks on the faces of the maids...
I have not got so disgusting so as to put soft-soap near the orifice...yet...
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Welcome to 'safety in non-accelerated body parts'...
Accident surveys show that closeness/proximity to bodily parts to a soft surface will lessen the impact during a collision. Volvo for years showed rolled up cardboard in their door panels so when someone's knee or elbow hit, it crushed the tube and lessened the blow. This is why the panels now uselessly bulge toward and irritatingly rub every bodily part on you...EVEN in a Lincoln Town Car!
I am amazed that my 240 can have me flopping around like I do, free and unrestrained, but I get into todays cars that are BIGGER, yet SMALLER inside at the same time. Maddening. not necesarily related to heqad room, but generally room in the interior in general. Sound deadening and sunroofs cut out the other room, damnit!
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Thank gawd I'm not insane. Those are the lugs I'm talking about.
Now, does CWC have the same style lugs.
If it does, and they don't use a HEXAGONAL CASTING in that area, I'm ordering one of these cams, and going to try to get my interpreter (an MX5 guy who noticed my "MSA 2009" shirt right away in the airport...) to ask about information on cam core or blank sourcing. This indeed means someone in JAPAN is still making aftermarket blanks! I don't need to find one with a Hex, I found them...I just want to make 100% positive before I start asking for favors here that I'm barking up a worthy tree!
I get woood. I get wooooood thinking of this stuff, it's so exciting! Where's my inflatable sheep? I need a release...
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Use the Milwaukee "Rescue Blades" and you won't go throuh but maybe two.
Knowing where to use what length blade is important. I wish sawzalls used a full-width clamping mechanisim, the necked-down one is prone to failure.
BTW, you can easily cut down the broken blades and re-use them in the saw! I do it on my 6" grinder, and it works just fine. The teeth only wear in that stroke area, so you end up using all the blade up before you switch to antoher one.
The 'rescue' blades are about 2X as thick, so you don't get a 'fine line' cut, but they are much more rigid and don't bend up when you punch the blade into something as easily.
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You can add a GM 'slot style' TPS on the linkage shaft of the triples as well, and make it very unobtrusive. Just file the end of the shaft, or stick in a small flat adapter and then bolt the GM unit over the top of it.
There's a million ways to do it. Kinsler makes a 'TPS Mount' that is actuated by a crank, so you simply hook up another arm to your linkage setup going to where you mounted the TPS Mount, and you're set. They have CW and CCW rotation models. Its for guys converting their Hillborn/Kinsler/Enderle MFI setups to EFI and need a way to mount the TPS without altering any of the bodies. Works if you attach it to the bellcrank on the firewall, as well!
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yep, and they have 'children' in the general area that always seem to cavort back home regularly!
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My cams have a set of two 'lugs'... Can you post a photo of your L6 "JAPAN" camshafts (or one at least).
I'm sure the L6 cam has 'lugs' along its length between one set of the lobes. It's where I stick my big crescent wrench to turn the cam from time to time...
What I'm looking for is what the CWC cams have shapewise in that same area, as I mentioned, here in Japan there is a "JAPAN" new blank with a HEX there, and I don't think they are Nissan OEM. If they are the OEM supplier, either we have all been lied to, or someone started up production again (more likely) for at least a limited production run, and changed the casting a bit for differentiation.
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I don't have the manual in front of me, but can't for the life of me figure out what you are adjusting. There is a large screw on the front carb which will adjust fuel mix for idle speed, and works in conjunction with the volume screw on the balance tube. They are not small, globbed in glue, or copper colored.
Whatever they exposed, it's screwing up the works. The Factory Service Manual is available online, take a gander at it and see if you can get a reference for the screw that I can figure out. I don't know what screw they exposed, but it's one you don't mess with.
The front carb controls fuel mix for both carbs at idle.
The carbs off-idle mix is an internal set adjustment accessed by removing the float bowl, and is far richer than the normal SU setup, normally it needs no adjustment as all engine speeds up to 1500-2000 can be handled by the idle circuit alone.
When they run rich, the power valve (like on a Holley) is usually shot from a backfire or something. The copper screw is a mystery to me.
A celphone photo is worth a thousand words...
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ahh ok i gotcha, well what about running a hose from the manifold to the "fresh air" inlet to the AAC, AAR, etc. I was thinking about threading a hollowed out PCV valve into one of the allen head bolts in the bottom of the intake manifold and running a hose from that to the actual fresh air inlet. This way im still getting metered air, and i will also have positive pressure going through it under boost to keep the AAC from opening under boost. Im trying to keep away from having a bung welded to my IC pipe since im already on a tight budget, so if i can get away with using a hollowed out PCV valve in one of the holes in the manifold, then i will try that.
What do you think Tony?
NONE of the lines are 'fresh air' they are ALL under pressure. The distinction is before throttle plate or on the engine side of the throttle plate.
All what you are referring to as 'fresh air' are before throttle plate (after turbo). That is the source of the AAC and AAR's supply. IT can not be taken AFTER the throttle plate. There will be no 'bypass' for the valves to function!
The only place for the source is the J-Pipe or off the scroll of the turbo on that small fitting. That is where the air bypass has to come from to work properly under boost without a leak to atmosphere.
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The linkage on that manifold consisted of some drill rod (appropriate diameter, 8 or 10 mm I believe), three heim joints (Same hole diameter, with threads to mactch manifold) and jamb nuts, two stop collars (one with a hole for provisioning a return spring on it), and a few bellcranks for the rods to attach to...
And cable throttle with quadrant is my preferred way of setting up the rod.
Looks like you got a downrod in the 'one of these things is not like the others' catagory. All that stuff is available new TWM or any number of places sells linkage bits.
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Yep... If you install GM style sensors, and a dual TPS from a KA engine that has both Switch and Sensor, you can dry run the whole system and datalog it while still running on the stock EFI system.
On a carb system it would take some more setup, but it could be done as well.
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Go to Thunderhill this past weekend. They ran the event Nov 21/22...
Day late, dollar short. So you saved the price of spectator admission, like $40.
Scam artist gets owned on MBenz site
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Some of the loudmouthed teenagers who know it all at another ZCAR site have found out firsthand the perils of the not-so-anonymous internet really is when some big bearded hairy guy rings them up (and their caller ID shows a local number within 10 minutes drive...)or knocks on their door for a friendly social visit. They aren't so loudmouthed after that...
"Uh, your number, that's ahhhh Rome, right?"
Yep, you live in Marietta, right?
"Yeeees, uh why?"
That's about 10 minutes or something now that the traffic is cleared, right?
"Maybe 45...uh...why?"
Oh, just idle thought, I'm not doing anything this evening, maybe we can get together and talk about those comments you made about my wife and child...
I like how it really took off during the memorial day weekend. Some people should...maybe...get out a bit more if this was their obsession over Memorial Day Weekend! LOL
I'm more of a personal visit with a bat kinda guy. It would have been 'road trip' time for me on Memorial Day Weekend.