Tony D

Computer Lab...LOL As someone who watched that at a Chrysler Training Seminar (and it was old then!) finding new life makes the thing a living entity amongst people doing mechanical work. This made the rounds at Honeywell Engine Boosting Systems about 10 years ago as well (then Allied Signal / Garrett). Anybody remember the 16mm Training Movies with "Primitive Pete" in them, the guy who could fix anything with his big, rock hammer? Apparently that was not just a military thing as well---Ford used that training film in corporate training to great effect on RCSM's.

I must put Y0RGO onto this thread, just so he can use that photo later elsewhere. It is truly worthy of repititous posting...

Yeah, I don't see the 'keyhole' in front of the trigger guard. Not that I have any knowledge other than entertainment indulgence in such a modification for an SKS...

I'm in line with Braap's comentary. My only caveat would be idle vacuum. With the MAP based system you have now, you will need some idle vacuum to get the requsite resolution to have an engine that will idle well while on computer control. If you go too radical, the vacuum won't be there, and idle quality will suffer. As you suggest, Megasquirt would be the next step, and it would suffer the same from lack of idle vacuum (there is a big resolution difference from 35-105kpa, as opposed to 60-105kpa, as a 'big lopey overlapped cam' might give you) But luckily, the MS comes with an Alpha-N mode, so you can tune based on throttle position and rpm...works fine on the track and with the expanded maps you have plenty of resolution for tuning drivability to and from the track. Now that you have mentioned this, I need to drop Rick Patton an e-mail. He's got 50# of my SU Carbs for about a year now (all the Datsun SU's, 65-78) so he could make up appropriate drop-in Injection Kits for all of them. I need to see where he's at on that, and see when my stuff is headed back my way. I need to put some of that stuff back onto cars! Good to see your car is working out well after the conversion Caen! Sorry I didn't drop you a line, I was at Spa again last month for the 6 Hour Oldtimer event. Maybe next year!

BOLLOCKS! (like the local lingo attempt?) There were at least a Dozen of them in use at the muscle car weekend at Eastern Creek last month. They have to be getting them from somewhere. If all else fails Demon Tweeks out of the UK sells them. Also JC Whitney sells one, not the Weber/SK unit, but very similar (gauge and needle design) --- JC Whitney will ship as well, and the one they sell is probably about half the price that Demon Tweeks wants for the Weber one. I have had the JC Whitney one since 1986, and it hasn't failed me yet. Matter of fact, I stand corrected, I just googled "jc whitney synchrometer" and it pops up with the SK/Weber one for $88 US, and the other one for $55 is the crappy uni-synch. I searched one back from the page with the Weber Synchrometer on it, and up pops my old favorite the Schleyer one that I bought from JCW while I was stationed in Japan in 86---it's a whole $40 US, and I can attest it works just as good as the one costing twice as much, and 1000X better than that overpriced piece of die-cast sh*t sold by Uni-Synch! Weber One: JC Whitney P/N 14219G http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=1101021435&statenval=1101021435&productId=2004219&shopid=100001&pageid=12&TID=8014524F&utm_source=Google_Product_Search&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=product-14219G&zmam=73771597&zmas=18&zmac=129&zmap=14219G Schleyer One: JC Whitney P/N 1JA882792 Schleyer P/N 200+H10+18 http://www.jcwhitney.com/CARBURETOR_SYNCHRONIZER?ID=12;0;1101021435;0;100001;ProductName;52;0;0;0;2008076;0;0 Not all the Webers will have the air bypass equalizing screw. That is a later model response to Dellorto which had them, and allows for compensation of a twisted throttle shaft and butterflies that aren't quite in line after sticking and throttle stomping too much...

Either I missed the earlier post showing the 50mm Stocker Cross section...or someone edited it to include it afterwards... That shows the 50mm unit is considerably larger cross-sectionally than the smaller pairs. This tends towards the 'sport feel' of the Earlier Cars versus the JDM later version ZX's with more of a GT Tuned Feel (or a Cedric/Gloria for that matter.) Strong tip-in response makes for a more sporty feel and the perception that there is more power there than there really is!

"Engine speed is over 9,000 Revolutions per Minute (RPM)." So much for that crank harmonic, huh? I have one of the old heads off that boat. No, you may not have it. LOL

Man, leave for a little while and this pops up? But a nice spunky conversation going on... Soon all the excitement will cease, and it will shrink back into the shadows...

A Datsun in a Motorboat? Say it ain't so! Check out a search for a small Hydro that ran in the UNlimited 2.5L Class called the 'Sho Nuff'...especially if you can get video clips. I can't link any now due to sucky internet. You should pull a ski fine!

At the Dennys once a month. San Diego Z Car Club, they're online.

Personally, I think you forgot to mention the Black Shifter T-Handle in the mix.... That's up there with Chevrolet Valve Cover T-Spinners on an SOHC Nissan valve cover!

The smallest butterfly maximizes intake manifold vacuum for 85%+ of the driving most people will do. It can 'tame' a low gear ratio by giving very sluggish tip-in response. Chevrolet Suburbans have a non linear throttle that does the same thing. Conversely, the larger throttle plate will exaggerate tip-in, making smaller throttle excursions seem to produce more 'power' during take offs from the stop. You calculated the cross sectional area, you may as well make it complete: Do the stock 50mm, and popular 60 and 65mm throttle plates as well and reveal to the unitiated the wonders of cross sectional area and throttle plate angle percentage delta change!

I can usually get 120 hours a month billed. So that looks like 3 months worked...solid, with nothing else in your shop. Take into consideration other work that pays immediate cash flow needs (lets be practical here) and this job could take the better part of 6 months to a year. Regardless of his fundage, is he willing to commit to paying you $30 Grand in weekly or even monthly installments over the course of a year? That's $2500 a month---or $5000 if you can do it in 6 months. That's just covering your labor costs, not the parts! Of course I'm figuring on $100 an hour, you can charge what you want, but even at half that, is the guy willing to write that check for your time on a consistent basis PLUS pay for parts in advance (or even in arrears 30 days?). Like you said, he likely doesn't appreciate the committment required. Someone who runs an auto detailing business once explained to me a $330 Bill for Detailing a car for labor this way: "It takes this guy 8 hours to do this detailing, it's all he's going to do for the whole day---you figure it at 8 hours, likely it will take 10 or 12 hours because he's not going to let it out the door until it's right. He's not billing for the extra time, but he knows if he doesn't put the time in, and you loose a show because there is grease showing on an inner tie rod boot, you aren't ever coming back and he will have to find another customer to make up for that 8 hours of billing somehow to pay his bills!" Same with you---you have an 'estimate' but likely the time expended will likely be more, and you will be held to the 'estimate' when it comes down to it. It's Catch-22, you can't let some stuff go out the door, regardless of what someone 'wants' because you know in the long run you will be bitten by it. So you choke the extra labor because doing it right is worth the short term loss in revenue compared to the long term loss of reputation. I don't envy your situation. If they choke on it, likely they really can't afford it, and need to lower their expectations. Finding a diplomatic way to explain that to them, or working it in stages (perhaps only doing a cosmetic on the engine, and waiting for the power later---8 versus 40 hours, that's a big labor savings, and PARTS cost reduction as well!) so they keep some of the high-dollar things for later once they have sorted the rest of the build to their satisfaction may be an alternative. Good Luck Man!

Actually, that's some fine wiring there, and nice terminal board work. I would consider it a pain to restore, but not an abomination. Methinks they did something at some time in the past---nobody goes through that much work to just get switches to light up! It's got real wires, mounted items, connectors...man that's HEAVEN! I hope you never have to encounter zip-cord hell, or speaker-cord hell! LOL

? I don't subscribe to threads (I'm not that obsessed) when they bubble back to the top I take a look. (Note the response date of the 'no pictures, no care' post...) I noted you said 'obviously' and that in counter to what I see the facts of the matter being. Racer Brown educated his customer base, and that was the impetus of his articles. The articles written were done in the early 70's as much for the Mopar Crowd as for general edification of his customer base. I thought this thread was headed for the Tool Shed with the first comments you made in the post. You seemed incredibly dismissive to me, that's all. To classify this as me 'having a problem with you' is not ture at all, it's just your statement that was worthy of a comment. Can you separate that? If you're insulted, that's in your interpretation. You seem to take offense to a lot of the posts. Maybe it's your writing style, or choice of words. Maybe you want to be offended as it gives you reason to reply the way you do. You seem to be dismissing the fact that Nissan Grinds ARE assymetrical, and HAVE BEEN since day one. You then take this misinformation and transfer it to a supposition about the Racer Brown Articles---as if Racer Brown had to write them because the Nissan cams were not Assymetrical---and I am SIMPLY pointing out that he was selling to far more than Datsun Owners. A fact you 'obviously' are choosing to overlook in taking offense to a clarification to the post. 70's Head Tech is the same a 2009 Head Tech. The Cam profiles are the same, nothing has changed. The classification of it as 'new' or 'old' stems from an inability to grasp these points apparently. Like I said, the attitude is old. Really. Jeebus! Again, I responded to this post when it was dredged up to the top and saw that "obviously" comment. (Blame Zeto Zeto for the skullduggery, I have let this post go long ago!) But the reply you made...I felt it deserved comment (since I just saw it). That you are so insulted by such a claryifying post defies logic. The FIRST post you made in response to your FIRST replies showed your attitude, too bad it apparently hasn't changed with time. Maybe this thread (or maybe all my posts in it) can be put where it belongs... This should probably be a PM but with the issues in the internet where I'm at right now, it's alread here so click the reply button...

Replaced with another 180? My focus was that when I ran 180's I was getting steam with the standard cap. There exists two possibilities: 1) Put a 24psi cap on and see what the temperature does. 2) Put a 160F Thermostat in and see if you still get swings. If it goes away, in either case, then you know what is causing it. If it doesn't go away with the 160, then install the 24# cap with the 160 and see what happens. My bet is there is a hotspot in the cooling system causing it, and the only way to fix it is to either run more static pressure, or cool it down below the boiling point. I run 160F thermostats because I'm not hung up on Adibiatic Theory, and figure if the oil is at proper temperature (at least 180F) then I'm fine. It keeps the radiated heat within the engine bay much lower, and that means rubber and plastic lasts longer. Good nuff fer me. Heck, I could put a 30psi cap and run 215F thermostats and be 'really thermally efficient' but I'm thinking other problems would creep up along the way. In a tropical environment Nissan Specs a 72C thermostat, so I'm not that far off a standard fittment for my situation anyway!

LIGHTS (as in headlights) were wired with Lamp Zip Cord (18 Gauge) or Speaker Wire, not sure which. Switch was undersized and self-tapping screwed to an otherwise fine, uncracked 73 Console. Apparently he had a roll of this wire, as it was used throughout the car for power wires, speaker wires, exhaust hanger, battery hold down, etc... Fusebox melted around fuse 'repaired' with JB Weld. Hot taps off fusebox were 'cut off the insulation and wrap the zip cord around it then use duct tape for insulation' style. Apparently he had a roll of duct tape, too, as any electrical work done used duct tape for insulation. Fuel line was in PO's words "undersized" so he replaced it with unsecured 3/8" copper line which was rubbing on the driveshaft, and halfway wrapped around it as well. Fuel Pump was from an EFI car, and PO couldn't get the 44PHH Mikuinis to run, disassembling them to the nth degree trying to figure out why the things 'poured gas out the barrels no matter what'... (This car was sold as a 'non runner' and took me about 45 minutes to get fired off, just about the time the PO walked into the hobby shop, heard it running, got a scowl on his face, did a 180 and stomped off...) Put 2+2 springs and the tall strut insulators on the back of the car for 'tire clearance'. Crossed the rear sidemarker light wires (the ONLY non-idiot proof bullet connectors on a 240 that I'm aware of!) so that the power went directly to ground, blowing the fuse immediately. Did something, to this day unknown, that makes the fuel gauge do strange stuff like creep up when the brake lights are on....or make it read correctly only when the brakes are on...or creep down only when the brakes are on. Self-Tapping Screws to hold exhaust hangers to body, to hold door panels on, to hold console in place, to hold carpeting in place, to hold tail light panels on the back of the car, to hold the bumper end brackets in place, and interior plastic trim in place. Installed standard rear bumper (guess with what!), regardless of the fact that it was cutting into the Porsche 930 style flares on the body. Left out the spacer on the LEFT T/C rod, so that when you applied the brakes the left wheel moved back in the wheel well and caused a HARD jerk to the left. Oh, and the best: He didn't like the way the brake lines crossed under the Master Cylinder, so he arbitrarily decided to 'straighten them out so they looked better' (I am not making this up, this was actually what he said)...resulting in a pedal that was 'light' and had no braking effect until about 1/2" from the floorboard when the brakes went from 'off' to 'on'---accompanied by the aforementioned movement of the left wheel rearwards, a loud CLUNK and pull hard to the left! Sometimes that wheel would actually totally lock. And there was probably more, but I've blacked it out... And that was just the first one that was a 'project'! Oh, and for Corzette and Stealth Z: THIS IS WHAT HAPPENED TO ROGER PUFFER'S CAR AFTER HE SOLD IT (The Blue Flared 73 240Z with the Corvette Headlights in the Hood and covered headlight openings)! To this I could also add the PO discarded the cool Corvette Headlight hood, and the glassed-over buckets when he got the car. All this, in less than a year of working in earnest. It took me some time to straighten out all those kinks... Some time...

Automatic Bellhousings are good for something other than scrap! If you are inclined to run a hydraulic throwout bearing, they may work as a manual transmission donor as well, and they're far more obtainable than T5 or A-Box Detachable Bellhousings...

That's the animal. I would have called it the 'SK Synchroniser' like on the box I got it in, but I've seen it sold by Weber everywhere but Japan...so figured that was less obscure. Note the scale is KG/H the reading is actually the airflow through the cylinder. Knowing airflow, and injector pulsewidth lets you roughly correlate AFR as a check as well...if you like to do math for idle intellectual exercises...

On the Mustang there is a gearing option to take drum speed and interpolate engine rpm. Input ratio of total gear you will make your pulls in (ours fourth is 1:1, and the final drive is 3.70 so that makes it easy...), and make the runs. Of course if you slip your clutch, or the tires have slippage on the roller...it skews.

Ditch the uni-synch and get a real dial indicating synchrometer such as recommended and sold by Weber. It doesn't restrict the flow to lift a piston, it uses an internal fan that rotates to move a dial and give you a reading on airflow. You can leave it in place forever and the idle is not changed one bit. Can't do that with a uni-syn! Idle synch is accomplished with the idle stop screws, and then linkage adjustment takes care of off-idle synchronisation. THEY ARE TWO DIFFERENT THINGS! Gene Berg has a good article on bench-synching carbs for VW's, and since that was the way I was trained, that's the way I started. It really saves time when you start from scratch (like bying a set in a basket and have to assemble everything...) Linkages are disconnected for idle synch. Then off idle synch is checked (hard as hell with a UNi-Synch, but child's play with the Weber Tool). Last check is to disconnect linkages individually while at idle to see if anythign changes. Good Luck, but I think you are just a victim of the uni-synch, especially if you are idling near 1000 rpms and hold it on there a tad to long, with a tad too small opening. Float should be in the lower 1/4 of the scale at first... If you hold it on more than a fraction of a second to get a flash reading on the red floating slider in the column, you WILL affect airflow enough to change the idle and must let the cylinder clear, and idle restablize before checking it again. Unisynchs suck.

"It's fairly obvious that if asymmetrical was "original" then there would be no Racer Brown Article to begin with as it would've been completely unnecessary at the time." ? Racer Brown's article (read it) explains his camshafts. The original L Grinds are assymetrical. Racer Brown sold his camshafts based on the performance obtained and by educating his customer base. The only thing obvious about his articles is that ignorance regarding the Nissan Camshaft has not changed in the 37 years since they were first printed. Racer Browns assymetric grinds were new-tech to domestic iron in the early 70's, not the Datsun. While he talks in the online articels about the Datsun, like Gene Berg Technical Articles on the VW, the information contained therein can be applied to any engine when dealing with the specifics. And he didn't just sell Datsun Cams. Dodge/Mopar people loved his stuff, and they needed to be educated as well. And the definately used Symetric Cams from Detroit. Man, try to leave some of the attitude at home, jeebus.

I would do more investigation, but I think you may be tracking instrument anomalies more than anything really substantiative. Are you running a 160 thermostat, or higher? I noticed more swings in temperature when running the 180 and 190 thermostats, than when I switched to a 160. I chalked it up to the hotter thermostats allowing spot boiling, whereas the 160's kept everything in the liquid format. Truthfully with the 160 in there, I have issues keeping the temperature high enough at idle to stay out of the normal range of the cold start loop (but since it's MS and can disable that bin!) You may simply be running too hot and boiling in spots no matter what. What is your coolant mix, what pressure on the cap, etc etc etc... There are way too many variables to note the anomaly without checking all the basics first. Way to many to say it's from venting of the 5/6 head area as well, and by the repositioning showing no effect, it shows (to me at least) that it's something else entirely causing it.

replacement ususally works

I'm sorry Mreddle, did I miss something here? Was a post deleted or something?