Tony D

bead seat covers? wasnt there a reference to those in MIB?

Beware of things offered up from someone with the name "Cockroach X" Gotta love that screen name:mrgreen:

That's HUGE! 5mph! Wow. Bummer on the crank. I ended up at home running a backhoe for four days to move a wash, then went to Michigan for a week with my wife (no internet to speak of) and then back to LA for 24 hours before shipping to Sydney Australia, so this is the first I have gotten to check anything. SCTA website was next, after HybridZ! Excellent bump on the record. I can't wait for the photos!

Yes, someone is, they are doing it. The photos are in the archives.

The power is in the head, Period. Spend the money on the head and properly getting it flowing. After that, it's just a matter of how hard you want to run it, and how high you want to twist it. The head makes the power. The rest is simply durability/longevity-based.

You inflate the price. It was $200...

Newcastle, you say.... Hmmmmm. Sylvan tells me he's bringing his Surfboard in the van for surfing off Newcastle on the weekend. I never brought the surfboard to a jobsite. But then again, I don't know how to surf...

Normally the failure mode is at the U-Joints. It appears there was a section there which had a 'crack' previously. Hard to tell from the photos, but that would be my intuition. Especially since it looks like you have the 'zerk style' U-Joints, which generally frag-out at the tapped holes for the zerks! Put it on the "Offerings to the Gods of Speed" Shelf. Everybody has one. You should, too. It has only begun!

The abomination of the space-saver spare in the S30 Chassis was a US-Only (er.. .North America) arrangement. Everywhere else on the planet, they had the 260Z style tank from mid 73 on to the time the S130 came out. You want mileage, use a 79ZX Standard Model with a 20 gallon tank, manual steering, five speed retrofit (or that diesel four speed autobox with the .67 overdrive...) and LIGHTER than the 78 280Z it replaced. And the ZX starts aerodynamically where the S30 stops after adding the G-Nose, Light Covers, Underbelly Pan, etc... The wieght difference carrys over to the 2+2's as well. If you really got into searching, you could get the 78 280ZX 2+2 Fairlady in the back yard. It's 2+2 weight is close to what a 240 weighs. My 76 Fairlady 2+2 weighed 2695# with me in it (255 at the time) when weighed with a full tank of gas at the San Antonio Dragway some time ago. I haven't had a chance to weigh the GS130 yet... Really I don't think the weight will make that much of a difference in mileage. But the tank size will dramatically affect range, and the aerodynamics do play a role, even at 70 or 80 mph.

I've done that before. Sold an RHD Celica GT for an exorbitant sum, to an idiot. Had substantial power, made all the right noises, and got him discharged from the USAF because he simply couldn't keep his foot out of it. I got it back at a substantial discount...er...like $200 compared to the $2000 I sold it for less than two or three months earlier. I then sold it to another idiot who ran it up a telephone pole guy wire and had it hanging from the front suspension. I believe he exited from it through the hatchback. I ended up getting the intake and carbs, as well as the header off the car before it was crushed. Does that make me evil? It was like the Devil-Celica. And people who think cars aren't posessed, well... If someone approached me with $15K for The Blue Turd, you can BET I'm looking for CASH ON THE BARRELHEAD. Now, the same offer (or 2X that amount) for my 62 Microbus...I'd have to think long and hard about it. The 66 Bus, SOLD! But my 62? I'd have to think REEEEEAL hard... But eventually, the money offered signifies they are SERIOUS about doing SOMETHING with the car, and that would probably sway me to sell it, knowing it would be cared for in some fashion or another. Does that make me a car whore? Muahahahaha!

Well, not to be Outdone by Challenger, I'm off for a month to Sydney Australia. Any of you Aussie Blokes in the region (or not so much in the region...) send me a PM and maybe we can arrange a meeting on some of my time off during this little interval. I'm arriving Thursday the 13th into Sydney Airport, 0630. I'm sure my local distribution contacts will want to beer me up for some period of time, but I'm not adverse to putting off their free beer for mutually split beer costs! During the week I am told I will be out at Dora Creek (?) at some Energy Facility. But from what I'm understanding, the weekends may be fairly free.

You don't need to study turbos to survive the two weeks. I'd suggest 'Operational Fundamentals of the AK47' as more appropriate reading!

"Supposedly Cursed History"? It is cursed. It's the Devil Z. You never listened to Buddy Hackett's character in "Herbie the Love Bug" did you? And yeah, cars like that do exist in Japanese junkyards (all the goodies there, just waiting for a savior...)

irregardless of your feelings... more education suposably will make it all better... it's prolly never going to change... (Multiple Periods Normally Indicate an Incomplete Thought, the verbal equivalent of stopping in mid sentence and inviting someone else complete the thought or phrase, usually an obvious conclusion or sometimes not-so-obvious. Example: "Well, when I got there and saw him with that sheep, I thought 'man where did he get those boots'...") Yes, I had fun typing this...

I would not put Corvette LS9 Engines, Honda Engines, or any other Engine is this discussion on boost and L28's. They are radically different combustion chamber designs. Six Shooter must have missed my threads in other posts regarding flow through the engine where I used the example of a car making 300HP at 8psi instead of boosting it to the stratosphere on a stock head to make the same horsepower. I think the off-boost drivability is a red herring. If your car is ported for the flow (even with say a 7.4CR), even before boost threshold the compressor will be putting in air and making power well above an N/A setup running 8.5, 9, or higher SCR. Even with a boosted engine, the 1, 1.5, or higher) boost in the SCR may return slightly better power, but not significant power at these 'off boost' areas. I think this is what JGK is getting at... The combustion chamber design of the L28 ain't the greatest. There are things you need to do to decrease it's tendency to knock. If you don't, then things break. Sure Cam Timing and valve events will affect it. Sure flowing more will decrease the boost needed. But at the end of the day, if you have a knock problem, and it won't go away then you are left with the old standbys of 'the 60's: retard timing, lower SCR, or change your cam' riscard is getting to it saying 'FASTBURN'. Redesign of the C Chamber will really pay dividends. But this starts at $1500 on most heads. And if that design doesn't work...you are out another $1500 for the next design. Putting it back to retard timing, lower SCR, or change your cam... I'll admit I've run some boost numbers on my setup (Non US Market 1977 L28 with an N42 Head) without an intercooler that people said is impossible. But when BUILDING an engine...choices have to be made. And most people will not spend the $$$ for a head combustion chamber rework, or pay for total custom pistons to promote proper burn...but with a sub-standard combustion chamber to begin with, it will still be sub-optimal. JeffP did some experiments with his setup, and it shows some interesting variances. KTM's build was X HP with a stock head. Jeff made close to 75-80 hp more at slightly lower boost pressures because of his cam and better flowing head. But both were at a detonation point. Comparing JeffP and KTM's dyno pulls will illustrate the difference between flow built into the engine. JeffP's 3.0 stroker with an 8.5:1 CR of course has more power, but that is some stroker advantage there... but down low the difference in power 'off boost' or at 'low boost' can be explained more from Stroker Advantage than 8.5CR versus 7.4 CR. If only I had my old dyno curves for a 8.8:1 curve on a stock engine...that might illustrate it better for this discussion. Raising the compression ratio in either of these engines would NOT make detonation any better. And likely this is the situation in this case as well. Eventually BMEP of the cylinder will be to a point where detonation becomes a problem with the available fuel.

Actually....I'm tight on time and flying back straight to SoCal may not even happen. I MAY have to ship the larger items and make the company pay for my flight to Europe. I have tickets bought for 22 September to attend Spa 6 hours with my family...and it would be nice if work didn't make me miss my 'free ride' there again this year. Last year I was working in Spain...so close...driving distance...but so far when the customer won't release you. And to top it all off, I missed the Nugent Concert in Amsterdam, and Zaragoza Spain because I ended up leaving too early. Now I see no Nugent Concerts at all, not even while I was in Michigan. Dammint!

Yes, swapping the front tunnel housing form an RB Tranny for an L-Series tranny, same as the KA swap. The earlier trannies did not have the larger bearing or shift rods. I'm talking 84 models. Seems to me those still had the earlier shifter linkage like the L Boxes. Later units had the better linkages like the KA Trannies.

Well, looks like I will be in a position to stock up and get 'a few' of those O5L heads... I'm leaving for the Airport in 12 hours for a flight to Sydney. OzConnection...you have e-mail! Now to comb the site for other OZ connections, I may have to drink beer with some of you guys. I only wish I had more prep time to load up on 'that which is a beech to get down under' and pack it in my baggage for personal delivery!

Along the lines of the 'stayrod' the LD28 has a mount that incorporates a hydraulic dampner to quell engine vibrations. It's on the side that never breaks (unless you really are geared towards using a LOT of engine breaking ability!)... A similar setup on the tension side would have similar results, and knock down vibration as well. Good Information on the poly mount! With the old Corvairs, you would put a bolt through the motor mount with a locknut to hold it together, keeping the soft rubber characteristics, limiting the torquover of the engine when launching, and keeping the engine from falling oiut of the bottom of the car should the mount fail (they did that regularly on the 60-64 models before GM came up with a throughbolt fix of their own much later!)

On all this, there is one consideration to be remembered: 05L heads are in essence a 'blank slate' for just about any engine you would build. You can ALWAYS remove material. With an 05L, you aren't welding a head for higher compression, you already have a small chamber---which you can always reshape bigger. You got small ports...which you can always make bigger. You got small valves...which you can always make bigger. When you rationally and dispationately analyze a full-on race build, you will amost always weld up the combution chambers, hog the intake ports, and put in large valve seats. With an 05L, you won't weld that head, meaning you aren't decking the head, meaning you aren't altering the cam-to-crank distance for longest chain life... You will do these things regardless, and the 05L is something that doens't require any welding, and the attendant work and costs involved. I would posit for a full-on build, it would likely be cheaper to build an 05L than any other head out there. That welding/straightening/decking adds expense to the build that otherwise isn't needed when using one of these heads. You blokes got a good head there...I wish I had a few to prove this to unbelievers. And that's all the further I can go on this at the current time!

Yeah, it seems O.K. at 18 right now. It really is extreme heat, No Intercooler and running with air filter inlet temperatures going to Palm Springs in the 150F+ range! Remember, it is the WIFE's car...she rarely runs it over 5500 anyway. If it was mine...it would be a different story. Then again, I won't carp about running 91 all the time, either!

Watch out chaning from two squirts to one...you can get terrible drivability from that! Mine wouldn't even run that way (single squirt) due to the FPR not being able to regulate pressure consistently due to the large drop in fuel rail pressure. An accumulator is a must if you go that injection route! You always need bigger injectors than you think you do. My wifes' car has 440 supra injectors on it!

No photos for me... >:^( Damn computer. I'll look on my kids with the new big LCD screen, he's hardwired to the router and not experiencing the issues I have of late on the work laptop...

I am so glad someone picked up the correct and exact phrase I was thinking about when I put that in there! "Disco Boy" would be the 'fart joke' Simpsons reference, but this indeed is the deeper thinking viewers here!

DOT 'Certified'? What is the FMVSS section they used for hte certification? Sometimes newer isn' t better. Especially when you are shopping low-buck options.