Tony D

There are commercial extractant powders that work by rubbing them into the concrete. They were marketed in the early 90's by some eco-friendly outfit our corporate material management people said we were to use. Of all the crap they sold, this one thing was really neat. Little white flakes like laundry deteregent...pour it on the floor, rub it in with a brush and damned if it didn't get dirty and the floor get lighter and lighter as the oil was extracted somehow. Damned if I can remember the name of the outfit now... Electra somethingorother...

I would, I have seen the EXACT same thing in my Fairlady Z, and about half a dozen other cars that have sit idle for a time, and then were put back into service. On my Fairlady, I had replaced EVERY bit of fuel hose EXCEPT for the return line back at the tank (one, because I ran out of it) under the assumption 'Hey, it'sa return line, how much pressure can be in it?' Fired it up, revved a couple of times to keep it running because it was running a bit rich, then it cleared up all of a sudden. Confident it was just something from 'sitting around so long' I let it idle. Idling I could smell a raw gas smell, REALLY strong. Couldn't see anything, but MAN it was strong. Figured better go to the shed to grab a jack to look underneath, even though I couldn't see anything on the dirt under the car. As I went behind the car, I was REALLY strong gas, and I thought I heard a faint 'HSSSSSSSSS' Looked up under the tank, and there was a stream of High Pressure Gasoline streaming to the ground. Looked under further---yep, the return line! The ONLY one I didn't change. Had pulled it and blown down it with compressed air, same as you... but the plug was in the tank return line. Curiously, my sons' 510 wagon had this in the return and the feed lines. WE had filled the car and run it to 3/4 tank with some 100 octane throwoff gas we had after the season ended, figuring it would sit and it was better to use the gas there than in the lawn mower... Months go by, and we go to try a restart...no go. No gas, no return line. We KNOW it was clear when we put the SSS carbs on it. Drop the tank, and all the sludge from the old gas had been solvented loose by the goo 100 octane stuff and it's vapors, and then clogged BOTH lines. Worked the stuff out with the standard coat-hangar and vice grip method. With the tank drained, it was off to an undetermined location whereby hot sudsy high pressure water was applied to flush out any remnants of the evil varnish gas residue and clingy stuff on the tank insides... Frank 280ZX had a similar issue with his 280ZX®. We had replaced the fuel pickup like shown in the photo as the car was parked with a full tank of gas, and then was let to evaporate over 14 years+ in storage. New pickup and it ran great. But going down the road something was happening. Damnable thing. But it ran at idle and freerev fine. And as long as there wasn't a big load on the car, it would go on like nothing was amiss. The fresh gas in the tank had solvented the brown goo and it sloughed down to cover the pickup transfer holes in the baffles arouud the swirl pot. Get on it, and the fuel flow was sucking the in-tank swirl pot dry! Another case of 'Take it to the Dutch Cleaners' for an inexpensive fix... Tank looked like new inside once cleaned out! Same as the 510.

(ObiWan Kenobi Erethereal Voice) "Trust your instruments madkaw..." The FSM give guidance on the steps to take if loop test fails, and component test does not. CLEAR guidance. If multiple failures are occurring, look for something like a .22 calibre hole through the wiring harness, or a spot where a PO buttspliced the entire harness back together. Don't laugh, BOTH of these are reasons I found for cars either not running, or that would NOT get rid of a persistent miss and kept failing smog. For the .22, the car had to be parked with the hood open, the inspection lid up, and the gun pointed down at almost a 60 degree angle to have a bullet go through the top edge of the resistor pack, then punch through the firewall and go through the EFI harness, and end up on the floor. "No wonder it wouldn't run" FYI that harness was repaired and has run in two LeMons events thus far!

Who says?

Alas, not a single shot under the hood...<:^(

Deglazing (not technically honing where you abrade the surface to a set final diameter and finish...) is almost infinite. The key is lightly breaking the glase on the cylinder walls. There is leeway, measure before the operation starts with a GOOD dial bore gauge and inside mic for all particulars (taper, out of round, etc)... It is not uncommon for racers to use the "ball flex-hone" on the cylinders several times before going to the expense of honing to the next oversize, or boring outright to something much bigger. Re-ring operation calls for deglazing. Finishing the bores after boring is honing. It's like "Freeze Plugs" for others on here. It's a bugaboo in terminology misapplication that takes on more significance with the new machinery available that literally can hone in 0.010 and 0.020" increments where previously you would have to bore & hone to go that oversize. Now just stick it in the Sunnen Machine and hone with coarse abrasives to X diameter, then switch stones to final diameter and finish!

I thought that's what I just did... When I put it on the in-ground Clayton Dyno up in LaHabra the dyno operator saw 'turbo' on it, and figured 'lag beast' so he ran it up to 60mph in 3rd gear, and then loaded it. (3.36 Rear Gear, 265-50/14 Rear Tyres, 84 Skyline FS5C71B Tranny) Boost came HARD. Clutch went up in smoke. Dyno operator tried another loading, but it was gone...clutch that is. Guy was all apologetic 'I never saw a turbo that came on that hard before! Sorry about your clutch, get it fixed and you can come back well run it again for free.' At 50mph I would turn 2000 rpms, and being able to just lay on the throttle and scoot past traffic got addictive. When I lunched that last turbo and made the mistake of 'upgrading' to the statesize .63 A/R turbine, the feeling I had gotten used to was gone...

That's not a lot of driving for that lifetime. Most cars in CA with Daily Driven "Cheapo Cats" are dead within that mileage, or shortly thereafter. Then again, are you actually monitoring your emissions, or is it 'smell predicated'? In CA, the days of the reasonably priced Catalyst Replacement are over now, due to the terrible overall performance of the 'universal replacement catalysts' --- now you must have a California Certified Catalyst put onto a vehicle. Or prove it was installed before the cutoff date (they do check). It made sense to me, as OEM's have to make 100K mile catalysts, and give a 10yr warranty, but aftermarket vendors had no criterion governing manufacture of the product. Anybody considering placing a catalyst on their vehicle should take a long an hard look at the exhaust gas O2 content, along with HC and CO. A five gas analysis on a rolling road will give you good information. All I'm saying is make SURE the car is running correctly BEFORE slapping a cat up under it. That it's got decent AFR's and proper O2 content out the tailpipe. Converters were designed around specific HC and CO percentages (3% MAX CO comes to mind)...Too much HC and that thing glows cherry red, and your floor starts smoking if not outright bursting into smouldering nylon flames! (ask me how I know this...)

Talk to JeffP about his decision after two sets of pistons/rings... Steve Web was the guy who said it to me back in Albequerque (1995?): My engine here is a 160,000 stock hydraulic liftered junkyard motor we put in two days ago after I blew my good motor. If you are considering doing this, buy the bolt-ons, and get your EFI dialed in first before building a good motor! This thing is making 425 (shows me the dyno slip dated a day earlier) to the rear wheels, and I drove it here from Texas. It's making almost as much as my expensive bottom end. Jeff was up making MORE HP with the stock L28ET bottom end that he previously made when his car was in ZCar Magazine! 450+HP on the stock bottom end. For testing and proving chassis, this is enough. It only has to hold together till you get it nailed. If it goes boom...you're out a couple hundred. Your big engine gets a lean spot under boost on the dyno while tuning and goes boom, how much will that cost?

Wow, I was going to be helpful, but with the attitude, I can pass. I see this headed somewhere... I just wonder where the L28 crank came from...

That's what I did, initially! It got addictive. THEN came the compressor upgrades, injection of water....boost and more boost... Guys don't know what they're missing until they can pump 21psi into an engine at 1700 rpms and hook it up. Even if you DO have to 'short shift' because it's a stock L28 N/A cam...you're well above 100mph by the end of the standard onramp!

Methinks Daeron needs to not go metric, and change back to the english system, and then his assertation of what 1FZ was saying would be correct. Most people run 0.040", 1FZ is running his head to crown clearance closer to 0.020" Which is 1mm, and .5mm .5mm is closer to 0.020", 0.20mm is closer to 0.008" It's the scourge of the metric parrot! ERRRRACH! Wrong conversion factor! ERRRRRACH!

Fair Enough, this is definately a personal choice to make. For me, I'd turbo the car with a .48 A/R turbine (like I had on my 73!) Full 17psi available at 1700 rpms... Can't be much more torquier than that! But this is 'dark side technology', not mentioned thusfar... LOL

You and Priddy can strip to the waist and fight for a knife I throw out into the back yard, the victor can have an N42 from the hoard... LOL Not really. I would not give up my N42's. But if you guys want to Gladiator-Style it for leads, that's fine with me! Jeff is in the same situation as you now, and has followed the 'Just boost a stocker till you get the EFI nailed'--you know his results. He bought that engine for less than the damn PISTONS on his stroker! He now is an N42 Vampire, stalking the SoCal junkyards for early cars to snipe their blocks! Yeah, find some 87mm Z22 Pistons with the low pin height that puts em aroudn 1.2 mm down the bore... 2898cc with the LD Crank or something like that. In Japan the econo-mod was running Honda XL500 pistons, with L14 or another L-Rod. Depending on the rod, you either had 1.5 mm negative deck height, or 1.5mm positive deck height. At the time the XL pistons from a Honda Japan dealer were around 1500 yen ($15 when the yen went to crap, it was cheaper by half before it went from 268 to 131...then 117...now 81 to the $, I digress!) INCLUDING rings and pin with spirolocks. I have a writeup someplace at the house. When I get back from this trip, I have to buy another container and make a damn library at the house so I can access this stuff when I need it. I just can't bear to buy a 20 footer when I know I can get a 40 footer for only $300 more...

Paeco has been doing performance work on just about anything for... well, I got their first catalog in 1984 or 86 if that tells you anything... They did a bud's Toyota 2TG head when nobody else would touch it! They also do the cam journals and lobes in Paecolloy as well, with lifetime warranty on journal damage. Welding and offset grinding is as old as someone wanting to make a cheater engine....LOL

Yes, the debate over the 3.5" got heated... I "cherry picked my facts", LOL

Many times the fume problem is caused by people running a tailpipe that is TOO SHORT relative to the OEM fittment. If you don't have that tailpipe in the right portion of the airstream (see aero forum) the gasses boil up around the back of the car and jus sit there. With a window open, you create a vacuum in the car, and just draw fumes in like crazy. Have a short enough pipe, and they can acually be brought in through the drain plugs in the spare tire well, radio antenna drain tube, etc... If the chassis was originally designed with a Catalyst in mind (proper floor clearances and heat shielding) there is nothing wrong with putting one on there, jsut realize most of the aftermarket stuff is worth what you pay for it---which isn't much. It's not uncommon for these to be dead after working a year. Plus, three-way catalysts usually require additional air be provided (it's why new GM's have Air Pumps again...) The catalysts on the earlier cars were not three way. I'd look where your tailpipe exits. I've solved more 'fume problems' by simply putting a chrome tailpipe extension onto the car. Also, realize if your getting a 5% CO reading (threshold point where just about everybody finds it objectionable to smell the exhaust fumes), likely you have ANOTHER problem with your fueling. Putting a catalyst on it is merely masking the real issue. These cars should really be just as clean without a catalyst as with one. The Federal and CA specs for 76 aren't that different. One with Catalyst, one without. It's there for times when you are out of the closed loop situation (WOT, Over 80mph, Over 3500 rpms) and the engine is making full rich power, and needs scrubbing of the exhaust. Other times, you are in closed-loop at 14.7:1 simply to keep enough HC and O2 in the exhaust to keep the converter operating. Really, you can clean up the car at cruise to 83 California Catalyzed Levels (save for NOx...it will be high...) by leaning the mix out to the point of impinging on lean misfire. The EFI (or SU's for that matter) will run EXTREMELY clean on HC and CO at that point. My 73 with SU's and AIR injection passed the tailpipe test to 83 Catalyzed standards when tested! Remember they have to keep the catalyst hot to work on transients, so for that to happen Stochiometric gives enough O2 and HC to keep it hot and ready to roll. Emissions of HC and CO will drop on the lean side of Stoich under cruise, NOx will rise. Someone has a chart to post, I'm sure...

Quantify the spikes. A lof of that will depend on the type of plenum volume you have, flow of the compressor in an efficiency island, actuator type, and boost controller. Spikes are not detrimental unless they are uncontrolable or too large that the fueling system can not accomodate them. Yes, you will come on-boost harder, and MAY overshoot your set boost setting minimally. With a controller that controls based on rate-of-change in boost, this is easily controlled to be a non-issue. Most spikes are under 2psi, if that. The actuator generally works with spring pressure against pressure to OPEN. If you apply vacuum to a pressure side of the manifold it CLOSES (I just realized I may have mis-typed it, I meant to say vacuum CLOSES the actuator for better on-throttle response. Which I think is what you are getting at is a 'good thing' Nigel? Porting the turbo discharge will not do this, your wastegate stays open and you lazily come back on-boost. When you go to vacuum, that wastegate bypass closes TIGHT letting all energy go through the turbine, keeping lift-throttle turbine speeds up for rapid response. Coupled with a properly designed Compressor Bypass Valve, response can be quickened. Some electronic boost controllers will do similar things, dual ported actuators can also be used in this manner. I mistyped one word. Sorry, I'm 7000 miles from home, haven't been there for a month, and the idiots at Garuda called me at 2AM two nights running and have totally screwed my sleep schedule back up, so if I'm a little off, forgive me. It should have been obvious that vacuum would close the actuator, and do what I mentioned. I was concurrently thinking about the BOV slowing the turbo if it wasn't set right, and the thoughts crossed at somewheres around midnight... It's an hour earlier now, and I'm thinking better...

I'd not touch it and run it the way it is. Someone was running without air cleaners... Typical FOD ingesting pattern on the leading edge of the wheel. Won't hurt to clean the wheels with solvent, but I'd shy away from removing metal and altering balance on the nose of the wheel. If they weren't vibrating, don't look for trouble by removing metal... If it was an F15C and you were worried about something falling out of the sky in combat, I'd agree blending them to prevent stress cracks and pitching blades would be appropriate. But on this aluminum wheel....run it!

JeffP is running GT35® I believe, and gets full boots at 3400rpms like clockwork. He will get 2-3psi at off-idle when going WOT, and becase of his porting and cam, the car pulls like a much larger displacement N/A engine below boost threshold, and since the cam comes on 'above' boost threshold, it REALLY starts pulling around 4500 (peak torque?). He doesn't seem to get much over 17-18 psi, and has run it at 20psi, but with no great effects. I may be out-of-date with his latest testing after installing the stock L28ET bottom end for some testing compared with the Stroker, but these numbers should be good for that application as well from what I gathered talking with him. One of his previous builds had a turbo that would get boost a 3K rpms, and the car would go from 150 to 450HP in like 500 rpms. At first he didn't like the 'soft aspect' of how the GT35R came on, but he's learned that it makes for much more useable horsepower, and if he wants spunky tricks, he just cruises in 4th...

I get the boy to use Tide. It works like mad to degrease the floor, and rinses clean. Learned that trick working at McDonalds. You wanna talk about a GREASY floor? When we took over a distributor in Milpitas, the floor was unsealed concrete looked TERRIBLE and the resident 'technicians' wouldn't clean it because 'It was a machine shop before, and you can't get the oil out of the floor, it weeps every time the humidity comes up.' It was a dull sheen that would get humidity droplets on it like the floor was 'weeping water' from the slab, but it was just that the surface was oil-sealed and the water just beaded up. Got slippery as hell, and that was unacceptable. One weekend, with nothing to do (need a life?) I set upon the thing with a couple boxes of Tide Detergent and a mop/brush. Swabbed it and let it sit. Worked it in with a brush. Added more. After about a day of sitting there and working it, I hosed it all into the bay... Guess what? White Concrete Floor. Epoxy coated that next weekend! Powdered or Liquid (Concentrated)Laundry Soap is really good if you can get it on, wet, and let it soak. DON'T let it dry out, keep it wet, and move it around every once and a while. Drinking beer during this time makes for good entertainment... Once it's sealed, then you can use a lot less detergent, and they rinse clean and clear 'squeaky clean'. Were I to do it again, I'd swab more, let it sit, and then go at it with a Zero-Degree Pressure Washer Nozzle, or a Steam Jenny rather than scrubbing with a broom. That's why I paint/seal my concrete! Cleanup is a snap. Curiously, the weekend after I painted the floor, the alarm went off at 3AM on a Saturday evening (Sunday AM) and the boss called me to go check it out since he was in Chicago, and I was in the Holiday Inn two exits down... Got there to find one of our techs tweaking like crazy, and had removed EVERY tool from his service body truck, laid them on the freshly painted floor in rows (I WISH I could have taken a photo!) and he was methodically wiping them all down and muttering to himself over and over about how he 'didn't have time during the week and my tools needed to be cleaned' Ahhh, O.K. My lack of a life suddenly didn't seem so bad. "Bob, Chris is out in the shop cleaning his tools..." The reply: "Uh...O.K. just stay there till he's done, and make sure it's locked up when he leaves. Oh, and get his key from him!" Thanks, Bob! If I'd never cleaned and painted the floor... A clean floor does invite that kind of thing, you know! LOL

Oh crap, and I have this pain...

There are 3.36 LSD's out there...in European Turbos. Euro Z31 Turbos specifically. The S130 Turbo came with an R200 but it wasn't LSD. There's the source for the ring gears you wanted...now go get 'em! It will neither be cheap, fast, nor easy so....

Likely a Dodge or Browing Chain Coupling. They can handle torque and speed when they get bigger... http://www.emerson-ept.com/eptroot/public/prod/standcoupl/chain.htm Sorry, couldn't get the Dodge photo to show up...

Maybe, but you can plumb that separately. Whe on-boost, there is a drop...but all that does is hold your wastegate closed tighter longer till manifold pressure builds to the pressure the wastegate is set to lift. In practical application, the boost comes on harder like this, and modulates pretty well on partial lift-throttle (at least in my experience.) What you DO get though is a VACUUM signal to your wastegate actuator which opens it WIDE AND QUICK slowing the turbo on lift-shift. Never thought about that one, didja? Mine is in the manifold plenum...