Tony D

Looks like an old Dutch Number Plate...but I could be wrong, it may be UK. Need to see the back to know with that vinatage with my knowledge of the Motor Law.

Where are you measuring fuel pressure, before or after the fuel filter? With a T or deadheaded? What happens when you pump from a clean bucket of fuel?

Tomei is a high quality engine parts company that has been in the L-Engine Business for... well, since before I went to Japan and came back! I have one of their ultra-light CR-Mo flywheels, as well as their super adjustable cam timing gear. FAR better gear than the HKS IMO. Many times you can get the stuff through Japan EMS post for a reasonable price through an E-Bay Auction out of Australia. I think JeffP just bought a whole buttload of Tomei Parts through the US Distributor. Couple of cam gears, etc...

Holy CRAP! A 2mm height difference from a bent rod is hellacious! I was scrapping Superior Rods with 0.002" twist in them...and that was on a 10" bore, 10 1/2" stroke engine (think rod the size of your leg!) Amazing what they will take and just keep on truckin! I WANT PHOTOS! I'm sure a lot of other people are curious to see this one as well.

Now I KNOW I need those half-glasses Grandpas wear! I can see the wall (floor) fine, but those hoses are nothing but a blur... WOAH!

I would agree that 9:1 will net you nothing appreciable, and likely will only aggravate the horsepower problems with inability to tune for anything on pump gas. Dropping to 7.5 will not cost you that much 'off boost' drivability if the car is flowed and cammed properly...you will always have 2-3psi of boost on hand no matter what rpm you are at, so even below boost threshold the 7.5 will act like a higher compression motor because of the boost down there that is always available. Sure, an 8.5:1 will give you 'more' off boost...but it's marginal. And if you are having timing issues then lower compression solves a lot of that criticality when under higher boost pressures. Hell, I'm finding detonation at 10psi on my wife's ride now (115 Ambient) running 87 octane pump gas. She's carping about having to run 91... So it's back to the drawing board to pull more timing. Soon my kid will be able to drive the car, and I can trim the curves while underway. And that one is 7.5:1! But hey, what can I say, 87 octane fuel is cheap! LOL Good Luck!

Er....kinda! That is a pressure relief valve for idiots who rev the hell out of their engines cold, BEFORE the thermostat is opened. It pops open and allows bypass to the front of the pump to prevent cavitation. SEVERE cavitation. The thermostat is spring loaded to open under extreme pressure, but it didn't stop cavitation in the pump. The purpose of that 't' is to allow bypass under these severe cases of abuse. At the same time, this LOOP makes the car warm up quicker due to the faster recirculation of massive ammounts of coolant straight back to the inlet of the pump. Kind of like the AMOT 'bypass to cooler' setup used on some race cars... For an example, I'd say it was like the guy with the gold chain who's late for the disco date in New Jersey, and jumps out of the window so his mother doesn't know he's going out again. All suited up in black with his gold chain (you know, like the guy in the AD!) He jumps into his beyotchin' ZX at 10 degrees in February, fires it up and ROARS off to the turnpike without any warmpup whatsoever. That little poppett blows open and gives a full 5/8" recirc to really heat that baby up fast under those conditions. Not only does it get you heat in the cabin quicker by making a LOOP, but it prevents cavitation in the pump during that brief period when insufficient flow for the pump's rpm is extant. This is explained in the valve function description in some Nissan Manual somewhere. When I read it, it was like "Oh, THAT is what that thing is for!" The visual of Disco Boy was added to help people understand what is going on in some people's heads (insert Frank Zappa Soundtrack Here...)

1:1 is what you want. Get bigger injectors, or bias (increase the spring pressure) the FPR for higher fuel pressure at idle to make the injectors you have deliver incrementally more fuel to make up the difference. At 25 psi, even in an L24, I would expect a 4 bar static pressure setting to get fueling correct at that output level.

"Rough" is a terribly subjective term. When people dealing with mechanical seals lapping start talking about a 'rough' surface, it's a couple of heliup light bands of surface irregularity. On an aluminum head, like Bryan mentions (insert machinist call out mark) 125 is good general number to the composition grabs. A metal gasket may need something finer, but that is dependent on the gasket manufacturer's recommendations and what sealant they have on the laminate shimpacks. There are all sorts of things you can do to keep that gasket from walking. But when it comes down to it, the gasket manufacturer's recommendations rule the day. If you weren't having a problem with it in 400 miles, likely nothing is wrong with the surface finish. Then again, saying that doesn't get a $100 planing job out of you, either...

Few mm would be a rod from another engine, as stated. Or a piston with the wrong pin height. In either case, it's 'wrong component in engine'...

Yeah, change "Swastika" to "Iron Cross" and you're spot-on.

Bummer, tooo late for the stock late 260/280 bolts. I just fit a set of 90 Supra seats to it, and those seats are 12LX17W square on the mounting bolts...

Remember the L4's have similar passages in their manifolds for coolant evacuation from each pair of cylinders. Same as the LY head, and the L-6 FIA head! Nissan put what they thought would be best for a low-horsepower street application. For serious performance work, there ARE (were) other alternatives that were far more suited to the specific application. Doing my own investigation into the old early 80's turbo projects of some of the bigger Nissan Teams has uncovered many little tidbits they did to keep it all together. Let's all remember they did it when it was new, and didn't have 30 years to get it right! When I think of the electronics (or lack thereof!) they had used to make the numbers they did, my hat is off to them!

I'd agree with Bryan on the clearances as well. Slightly bigger is better than too tight. FYI, I bought a full set of Nissan Guides, and they ALL need to be reamed to size, and they are cast iron (or some magnetic material)... Good to hear you are getting it fixed. I fired up the Red Car and was doing blasts up and down the street today. And I found out my kid has dumped all my MS Tables and Megatune from my old laptop (to free up space..a whole 15MB!)... Now, I have no idea what Version MS-N-Se I got, options, or whatever. Looks like I got to download my USB driver from somewhere becasue he deleted that as well and the computer doesn't recognise it any longer. Download new firmware and reset everything to the numbers written on the cardboard box top I found under the seat. Let us know when you get it on the dyno!

I'd really be interested to see ANY objective evidence on looping being beneficial. I don't see confusion, save for the people looking to loop. Those who don't loop, aren't confused! pffft!

Some transmissions have a 'Third Gear Switch' for the emissions system on the original application. Once activated it remains closed (working in conjuunction with a vehicle speed switch signifying 45mph or something like that). Usually an EGR component. Utilizing that switch or combination of switches as the 'input' for a 'high boost setting' on the boost control mechanisim would be relatively straightforward. Then again, a simple two-stage boost controller with a fingertip switch for low and high boost on the shifter would probably be just as easy and more failsafe. That is the plan for the Bonneville Car, no high boost until the switch is flipped, above 75-90 mph. Before then, the tires will just spin, regardless of the gear... but that roughly equates to the top of second gear in the car with the tall tires or short tires...

What power numbers do you want? That would be a good start instead of working backwards. You are going to get a lot more HP from the boost than you are from the 1 point bump in compression...including before 'boost threshold' when improved breathing will net more gains than a higher static compression ratio. What are the uses for the engine, and ultimate horsepower goal. People blow stuff up on at STOCK ZXT Boost Levels through timing and fueling errors despite massive modifications to 'combat heat' (or whatever) at supposedly much higher boost levels. If the subsystems aren't tuned correctly, the basic motor needs to be conservatively built in order to withstand the abuses while someone learns the tuning curve or subsystem dynamic. After all that, you can start playing with static compression ratios, but likely it's easier once you're tuned to simply add more boost and fuel. More productive, cheaper, and ultimately doesn't do anything to compromize longevity across the board like a higher compression ratio would. 8.0 is a good number, 7.5 is even better. Boost doesn't blow engines, detonation does. Period. If something went boom with intercooling, methanol, and an 8:1 CR, something is wrong. ADDING compression is the LAST thing you want to do at this point!

The thought of 'the heater core allows flow' is incorrect. The heater core is BLOCKED! That is the purpose of the heater control valve. If the heater control valve is opened, allowing flow, the water is COOLED before reintroduction to the water pump suction port. I can't tell you how many OEM Radiatored 240Z's I have 'fixed from overheating' in So Cal simply by cutting that damnable looped hose, and installing two spark plugs and some hose clamps! Looping the hose is not recommended, and not proper. Period. It's blocked when not in use, just like (for SoCal at least) 95% of the time you are driving around without the heater on. By the time you need a heater, loss of cooling capacity due to inadequately cooled recirculated water is not an issue. Matter of fact, anybody notice the engine warms up slightly quicker when you turn on the heater, but don't turn the fan on 'high'? That kind of tells you something right there...

I agree with Dr. Hunt, Cast Iron Guides last hundreds of thousands of miles. Silicon Bronze, Brass, and thin walled inserts...er...notsomuch! I replied at 'the other site' in a more vociferous manner on the painting of the opposite corners. Sounds like the guy is looking to drum up business and prey upon you more than being straight.

What, did I inadvertently stir a pot... he he he he he! Who? ME?

"I can see what motivates people here to cruise without a destination." I've done that since I could drive. Living in SoCal has nothing to do with that urge. As for this: Can motorcycle riders "split" lanes and ride between other vehicles? Lane splitting by motorcycles is permissible but must be done in a safe and prudent manner. Anybody else remember when the speed limit was 'Safe and Prudent'? There were many states out west where this was the case prior to the national speed limit in 1973. Even after that change, it took some time for State Troopers to bother with you unless you cracked Triple Digits. I remember driving with my dad (no seatbelts) in his Plymouth Fury going around 100mph across the desert on a trip from an educators conference. And gas was 5$ a tank...with change given by the attendant that topped fluids, checked yer blades, battery, and anything else they think they could find a problem with and sell you for an outrageous middle-of-nowhere price!

I was just reviewing the records and saw the DCWaterjet record...thought, man it's about that time of the year again! Good Luck Gary! I'm on Furlough near that time, maybe I'll take a Southwest FF trip to SLC for a couple of days. Better go check the salt report at the SCTA website...

Cut the plenum, invert the piece you cut out placing it back into the hole you made, and have it rewelded back into place so it clears the clutch cylinder. Same sort of thing happens at the front of the Greddy RB25 manifold with angle of the front when you use the VQ45 Throttle Body, you just cut it, weld it where it needs to be, and then polish the manifold. If you grind the welds smooth, then polish it, it will look like the manifold came that way. Clear Anonodize it, and the upkeep will be minimal. I'd leave the clutch where it's at, the manifold seems far easier to modify.

The 225 should not cause a problem IF the return line is free and unrestricted. I have resurrected SEVERAL cars from the dead in conditions like you show there. Get a pressure gauge on the header and see where it is...I'd place it in a "T" on the RETURN line. You shouldn't have more than 2-4 psi there. If you have more, it MAY be from swarf in the line, or the higher volume pump. If you have a larger container with a fairly airtight way to route the FPR/Return line to it at the engine, you can disconnect the line to the back of the car and let it flow into THAT for a while and check if it runs better without getting a pressure gauge. HAVE A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY! Blow through the return line, it should be free and unrestricted. If not, take the hose off at the back by the tank and blow forward, likely it will be free, if it's not fix that first....but DO NOT reconnect the fuel line. Hook up a line to the return fitting on the tank and blow into IT as well. I have had FOUR cars clog there, INSIDE the tank. The FIRST elbow inside the tank seems susceptible to clogging by junk that washes down the return line from storage. I take a brazing rod, or coathangar that I put a little 'jig' in the end to make it like a sewer snake. I cut the tip with a side cutting wire pliers so it has a diamond-shaped end for cutting into the clog. Then I mark the inches on the wire, clamp a vice grips onto it tightly, and then take a hard mallet and whack the wire in 1/2" at a time till its past the first bend inside the tank. Do it a couple of times to knock it out good and give a good flow. The gas returning will likely wash whatever's left back into the tank over time. Once I've opened them up this way, I've not had it return. My bet is with it sitting in or near Mexicali long enough to get like that first photo, it's in the exact same state most of my cars get when I pull them home about 2 hours north of the border! For some reason they like to plug there after having the lines open. I think the Leaf-Cutter Beatles make nests down inside. The pressure washed them to the elbow where it plugs up. That's what it was on the last tank I did---on my son's 510 Wagon. It only sat with the return line open for 6 months in the back, and those little bastard beetles put a nest inside there, that I didn't see when reconnecting the line...I dug it out of the tank with the same technique of coathangar, vice grips, and mallet! Good Luck!

khoyos, you have mail! Hmmm, O.C. huh? the plot thickens!