Tony D

I agree with the 16 footer. Tiedown is a PITA. Even with a set of Mac's Custom Tiedowns and strapping to the axles, it's not an easy 'hook and go' like a longer trailer with D-Rings you ca neasily access behind the bumper... Now again, if the trailer is like $250... I can put up with a LOT of nusiance for that kind of money! Twitchy or not, you can always ballast the tongue with something like a heavy toolbox and winch (though not to tall, that front end will likely be hanging out there a bit! Waitaminit...Moreno Valley? Figures I'm out of the country when a cheap utility trailer comes up on the market. I need something small for the boy's 510, and that's right in line with the size for that little thing (as well as the Opel GT!)

That's neat as hell! As I need to get a spray-in for the Dually, I'm going to have 'a little something extra' for the boys at Line-X to shoot. I'll see if they will throw it in as a freebie. If they won't, I'll tell them that 'the other guys will, I guess I'll go there then!'... If only this was posted when I had the wife's Frontier done, I'd have a nice dash in the turd now! LOL

PCV, NOS, and Brake Booster Vaccum Source. Usually there are two more, that aren't in the plenum, but in a separate chamber beneath it, and that is for your bypass water supply from the thermostat base through those two lines and thence to the water pump inlet---it helps with cold weather drivability and in humid climates keeps the bottom of the plenum from turning into one huge ball of ice (icing!). Hope that helped.

I thought that's what I said? Yes, simply bleed off the excess imparting an excess flow, and as your rpms rise the engine will suck more, causing that venting valve to close accordingly. You change the slope of the line and that is exactly what you have to do. I'm glad you realized the slope crossed and went into surge! When you have higher rpms, you get more efficient. You could simply alter the blowoff like you mention, OR... Divide the flow, using your wastegate to control some set ammount of flow, the the bleeder to control the rest. Say 50% each of them contributing to the flow situation. After a given point, with something like a fuzzy logic boost controller, you could signal the wastegatge to close and provide more boost after a given rpm. This would let the curve go vertically from that point, while the other bleeder kept you to the right of surge. Basically, your orifice being simply a hole in the piping would move that line to the right quite simply. Maybe put an Allied Wittan Muffler on it so it's not happily whistling hot compressed air all the time... but with so much excess capacity that may be the easiest way to go about figuring out how to make it do what you want. Just dump the excess through an orifice that you progressively bore larger between passes until you find a point where you are blowing too much and can't maintain your boost. From there, you have a practical limit of orifice, and given you know the pressure you can back calculate the flow you're dumping. Then back to the graph to figure out where you want to make the line 'go up straight' for the boost spike towards higher rpms. Split the difference and then start tuning the characteristics of the valves. Oh, if my job were that easy. Today, I'm beat up and 'have no face'---the Japanese are brutal. And I got suck with responsibility for the whole country. When you know the answer and depend on others to come through...and then they don't, ARRGH! But I digress... At least this one isn't surging!

http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalogs/4086/20156/ct/2009-street-rod-parts-000094.jpg Lower left Corner... that little box don't need to be on the side of the head. And when liberated as to where the flow goes...you can port and duct and move all sorts of stuff through smaller hoses to a remote housing and thence on to the rad-i-diddy-ator... Since a schematic of the flow was put up earlier, check this page out, for what I think the solution would be: http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/amot/06v-j-valve-thermostatic-control-valve/15809-10648-_2.html They make housings that are big and bulky, I just haven't dicked around with the AMOT application catalog to get dimensions to make one out of a block of aluminum. The tolerances aren't that critical, just the o-ring that seals, and you can buy them in 5 degree increments. They come in all sizes, so if you only wanted to increase the flow in the back of the head over a given temperature (say 190F) then you can run a split cooling system with a smaller amot controlling that section of flow control, while the main thermostat is set to 160 (or whatever...) Big trucks use these style thermostats because you can flow a gob of water through them and they are very good at controlling tempperature long term. I just liked the appeal of one of their smaller ones controlling heating throug the Carb Bases (another project...don't ask!) which shuts off once the car is warm---like the stock 73/74 carbs did! Get gooder cold drivability with the controlled vacuum leak, and then shut the flow off and cool that manifold for warmed-up power... But it works in this application as well.

Searching Google turns up a lot of the same information... http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/206114/

Power it on, leave the power on. If it doesn't get hot...it's toast. Another big indication is not being able to get any spark when you gate the appropriate terminals with voltage...like you are mentioning. All it takes is a second ungrounded, and POOF. Go get another one. When I was doing it, there were old-timers complaining because 'points don't take a crap like that!' They were used to being able to leave power on for a while to do testing. I don't know, maybe their brains worked slower. A lot of them didn't comprehend when the Simpson didn't deflect, no matter how you try it...it means there's nothing there! And those Wells Aftermarket Modules are sh*t crap junk. I KNEW what I was doing and STILL three of them fried or were bad right out of the box! The fourth was a heat-soak victim from power on too long in the wrong trigger position. But #5 was the lucky one. And I only paid $13 for it, every one was 'back under warranty' with me griping for the time it was costing me. I actually picked up the one that WORKED on my way to the speed shop to pick up the Per-Tronix Module because I was sick of the cheapo stock replacements. As I understand it some of the performance aftermarket modules use much higher grade components, and are far more tolerant of power on mistakes. But even they will fry without casing ground. It just takes a few seconds longer.

Argh! You took an L28ET Turbo OFF correct? Use the wastegate actuator off it, and reclock the housing. Use it as a guid to where it should line up to be, as well.

That would be where I put it, as long as it's one of the High-Pressure Injection systems, before the T/B is where you want to be. If you didn't have an I/C, it won't make a difference in cooling. If you do, it's slightly better after the I/C as you can see from KTM's example, you are using such a fine atomized mist, that change of state will occur even at much lower temperatures, so you get the possibility of better-than-perfect intercooling (charge temperature below turbo inlet temperature)...

They are a different ground. One is a reference for one circuit, the holes are ground reference for the power transistor and internal circuitry. Without the holes grounded, voltages inside that module go on spiking frenzies, and toast the internal components "toot-sweet"... When I was working at a GM dealership in 79 and 80, the one thing the GMI guy giving the HEI Training stressed was to NEVER power-on an HEI until the module was BOLTED DOWN (with the heat-transfer grease of course!) The other thing that kills them is heat, either from not greasing the base, or insufficient heat sink in aftermarket applications. I have mine on an aluminum plate that is 5X8 and it STILL gets HOT to the touch. You want surface temperature to be below 145-150F if at all possible. Inside the distributor isn't the greatest place to put these things, but I guess the boys from GMI didn't want to copy Chrysler, who bolted their HEI Module to the firewall....a BIIIIIG heat sink! BTW, both the metallic bottom and the metal 'rivets' through those holes are connected, and are all the same common ground plane. It is totally isolated from the circuitry that the "Ground" wire is hooked to...which is part of the reason these things go bad so often...people don't see much about it other than 'bolt it down'---they never get the whole GM explanation of WHY it needs to be securely fastened to the chassis ground. Many times, you can find grounding straps on HEI dizzies that had issue with intermittent spark---someone was under the impression that an aluminum dizzy base bolted into a cast iron block might not be grounded properly (apparently Nissan thinks this as well, as they have a Factory applied ground strap!)... Generally on a Chevy though it was an issue that the HEI was intermittently taking a dump because of heat. Nobody drilled holes in the cap and let the air cleaner pull air thorough the cap to keep cool air circulating... ooops! Someone did! If you are using a four pin HEI (or ANY HEI) and insist on running Autozone or aftermarket crap cheap modules, KEEP A SPARE IN THE GLOVE BOX! I went through three or four HEIs from Autozone before getting one that WORKED RIGHT. That is the one in my glove box as the roadside spare. I put a Per-Tronix Flamethrower on because I didn't like the weak spark of the AZ Crap. It was a whole $40...no big deal there and I have the satisfaction of knowing I have parts that clearly say 'For off Road Use Only, Not Highway Legal' on my streeter! LOL Thing to take away from this is there are TWO ground circuits on a GM 4 Pin HEI. And the one through the BOLTS is the CRITICAL one, if it's not connected...YOU FRY IT!

Oh, don't get me wrong, I wasn't arguing about the number, that AFM flow will support that, just not on the stock manifold in an N/A configuration... Raw flow numbers are fine and dandy for figuring out ultimate HP, but watch the vacuum (or Kpa) gauge while you're up around 7000 rpms and watch what happens to that plenum as an N/A. The engine will be 'very efficient' at that rpm, but it won't be flowing that kind of flow... It's like a car that shows 0"HG at WOT....by the time you're doing 170mph+, nobody is interested in looking at the vacuum gauge to realize at max speed and max power of the engine, for some reason they're back up around 9" (Or Higher) Hg of vacuum. John Coffee's engine was making numbers like that on a stock 'looking' manifold, but it was a lot more than 35mm runners and a widened plenum. I've seen high 180's on a stock EFI manifold, and if I'm not mistaken some that bumped 200HP (RWHP) but they were the exception and not the rule. BUT... For a TURBO, you can make a LOT more HP on the stock manifold than a lot of the 'experts' said was possible. 650+ in fact.... Sure, you could make more with another 30cfm of flow per runner (and at a lower indicated boost level) but at that point it's a matter of degrees and what you can practically put to the ground. I think the ported stock manifold on a ported head, with a cam will make more than your goals. I was just saying that porting for an intake flow of 220CFM at 25"Hg and 550" lift is simply overkill as the intake will only flow around 180-190. Buying a port job in that range is a LOT cheaper in most cases than one that would flow 220cfm on the intake... and really would be a waste of money unless you decided you would upgrade to a different, better flowing runner design some time in the future. Again, not arguing that 178-190 flow per runner would produce that HP range in theory... It's just in practical N/A application things work differently than the models. Since you are turbo that number (and your goal) is well within reach. Which is why I mentioned JeffP's setup making 300+ @ 10psi. That is with the flow figures I mention above (runner flow around 190cfm on the manifold, and +30CFM on the head) with cam. That should give you an idea of the potential of what you are building in practical, proven real-world numbers on an actual vechile.

Take it apart, clean it and that's about all you can do. The pump is an internal relief, if it's malfunctioning you get low pressure everywhere downstream. VW's didn't do that, they regulated pressure off the back of the main oil gallery, so the pump pushed all the oil to the engine first, before dumping any to the sump. Guys put relief valves on the pump covers on them to keep from blowing oil filters (which L's can do if you crank the relief valve up!) Oil pressure is taken off the side of the block next to the oil filter---it is UPSTREAM of the oil filter, it is NOT the pressure your rods are seeing! If you have a cheap filter with a bad bypass internally that doesn't open when it's clogged...rod city man! Usually low oil pressure is a sender thing. What kind of numbers are we talking about? I'd put a MECHANICAL gauge in where the stock sensor is positioned, and VERIFY any readings you get. Cannon used a 1/4 NPT if I remember correctly, if not that, 3/8npt. Though the Japanese one is BSP, ---it fits, the threads are close just use a lot of PST Sealant and it should seal up fine. G'Luck!

278? Probably not on that manifold as an N/A but easily supported on a turbo! But a stock ported turbo manifold with a ported head and cam on a stock bottom end (turbo) will run 300+ at 10psi of boost. The same engine terminally made 465 to the rear wheels somewhere around 20 or so psi. (JeffP's latest experiment in torture...) He knows his stock manifold costs him 30CFM over what the port flows when mated to a Cannon Manifold that was port-matched. Were he to change over to a plenum simply bolted to the Cannon Triple Manifold, and put the appropriate TB on the front, he could pick up another 30CFM per runner in flow, and undoubtedly that HP number would climb higher from the flow restriction removed. We must be on the same timezone now...I just landed in Nagoya! (Was in Shanghai) I grind naked. My wife freaked thinking I was getting 'greyhaired'...prematurely! Just remember to be careful around things that can twist other things into a knot violently! LOL

That's not true. In either injection point, there will be a change of state. The old spearco water injection was totally before the compressor simply because the pumping technology for impingement or atomization style nozzles didn't exist yet cheap enough. The small droplets and higher pressure cause a total state change giving the maximum cooling possible. This will not change injecting it before the turbo, and with the smaller droplets of the newere systems I think 'errosion' of the turbine wheel is a bit of over-egging the pudding if you ask me. I ran my old Corvair for YEARS on water injected from a carburettor jet impinging directly on the wheel with no noticable errosion. The advantage of this is you don't 'need' and expensive pump to pressurize it, a simple windshield washer pump would work. But you really won't control the injection rate very precisely. The new systems allow you to use it as a precision injection of fuel and not simply anti-detonant. You can tailor the flow. I would lay money that on a NON-INTERCOOLED system, before or after the turbo would make no difference. On an INTERCOOLED system, I would move it after the intercooler simply because you want to cool it as close to the intake plenum as you can so it doesn't pick up heat along the way. Putting injection in before the turbo on an intercooled system would have several issues: combustible mixture in great volumes waiting for an ignition source being the first one that comes to mind. On cooler days, there is the possibility of condensing back out of suspension in the airflow as it goes through the intercooler, with water it's easily dispensed with a small weep hole on the bottom of the piping to the T/B, but methanol can ignite, so once it's in the piping, yo uwant it to STAY in the piping!

I know what I know, but not much more...

All over the state. Born at the same Hospital as Michael Moore in Flint...two disparate characters from the same area you won't find! Moved and lived in the UP for a long while, and ended up in Tawas/Oscoda before going into the Service. Got out just in time for the 'last Michigan Crisis where nobody has a job' and went west. I still have a small cabin on Lake Huron that I retreat to from time to time. And I disagree about a 'make my day' comment. There is one scene where he discusses ventilating someone 'with this same gun I'm holding now'... That was pretty damn Harryish!

Not quite. We had a guy from Kenya (originially his family was Indian, as in from India) in our car club. One day he was excoriating 'Those Bloody Pakis' (Pakistanis) for something or other up by the border area. Understand, this guy is high-dollar Pepperdine MBA material going off on this age old blood-fued between India and Pakistan. After I had made some (baiting) commentary about "Indians Blowing things up near the Border"---of course he HAD to differentiate between "Bloody Pakis and Peaceful Indians" (the guys down under will see where I'm going with this.) ANYWAY... I looked him right in the eyes as he's explaining all the technical differences ad DEADPAN to him: "Bah, Hitendra, you're all just bloody Wog's to us!" Pepperdine MBA looked like he was about to KILL me...and I think he was actually laying back to take a swing when I cracked a grin (I couldn't help it, I KNEW I got him good!) Then he realized I was messing with him and he called me an Italian Ethnic Slur and we drank some beers or something. There is a PRICELESS bit in the old Fawlty Towers (maybe you can find it on You Tube) where 'The Major' goes into GREAT detail about what ethnic slur is appropriate for which underclass third-worlder from every corner of the Empire. Matter-of-Factly, just rattles 'em off. They could NEVER film that today. Rioutously funny if you know the background. Lack of proper English Plagues America, forgive those who don't know what 'wog' is... LOL:shock: Is 'wog' proper? LOL "WOG!" as opposed to the noise you make when you curl your arm flexed, bend your knees, and makea fist and go "WAAAAAAAUGH!" (Python Warped me as a child, what can I say...)

If you're not willing to put the goodies on there, then the 'benefit' for sequential injection will hardly justify the costs involved just so you have bragging rights. We have polytropic head control on our compressors, NOBODY uses it save for people with purchasing departments with geek engineers who cream over the 1% cost savings in electricity they get and somehow convince beancounters that the 3X cost of the system is peanuts when your electrical bill is $1,000,000 a month. The sensro package takes a standard controller from around a $20K retrofit cost, to closer to $65K, individual inlet and outlet pressure sensors, temperature monitors into and out of each stage.... For that they may see a 1% better performance against the surge line when turned down. For a customer running off the surge line, the costs over the $20K system would never be noticed, nor costs recovered. Same with Sequential Injection. Look at what your Motec is going to cost you for even a 'rudimentary' sequential setup. Then realize that economy might (and that's an iffy 'might') net you 1-2% better economy. Meaning you get what 10.2L/100Km versus 10L/100Km? For an extra $2000, you can buy a lot of petrol! If you're basing it on 'better drivability' how do you actually quantify that? If you are unwilling to spend the $$$ for the full sequential package, how will you find the $$$ for the 50 or so hours of rolling road time to flatten out those nits in the road which make the car buck slightly when you decelerate or the hesitant millisecond long snif you get on transition when you flatfoot the car around a right hander uphill whilst looking to the east and winking with one eye? The things don't tune themselves (well, Autronic aside...) but really IMO the Autronic with the OEM style long and short term fuel trim will perform more useful functions set up as a batch-fire unit than ANY other Sequential system that you have to manually chart and configure. The OEM's have nice stable long and short term fuel tuning loops. If I were to buy a high-dollar unit (Standalone ECU) to replace my Megasquirt, I would look FIRST for that kind of automatic fuel trimming, than for 'sequential injection'... The usability of the box is determined by it's user friendliness. Learning to tune simple batch fire can be a load for many people. Add phasing of the injectors, individual fuel trim, and other items that can be engineered to insignificance early on in the project...and it comes down to which is the easiest to set up and do what I want it to do. And figuring out what you want it to do has to do more with concrete numbers and performance figures than marketing buzzwords and phrases subject to purely subjective analysis. Manufacturers went to sequential as a result of EMISSIONS REQUIREMENTS and nothing more. Until recently the processor speeds were not able to be clocked to control sequential over basic idle and low speed operations. Now that processor speed and processor cost has come down it makes fully sequential systems on OEM setups possible, and again with tightening requirements for governmental compliance REQUIRING individual cylinder fuel control and diagnostic capabilities it's not their CHOICE that they are using fully sequential. Where emissions are not a concern, you will still find simple, durable, slow clock speed batch fired systems are the system of choice because they operate with a couple of durable sensors and are rock-solid reliable now that there is over 40 years+ of history ironing the bugs out of them. Lot of talk about 100K mile warranties and all from the marketing department, and it really makes you think the car companies are competing to sell you a better product... but in the USA at least, it's all government mandated emissions compliance that has driven a 100K mile durability certification process. Marketing just found a way to sell you something that they had to put into the cars ANYWAY. Just like Sequential Injection! Think of it like this: Even in F1, sequential injection is nothing more than digital electronics controlling an analog device, the fuel injector. It's not open or closed. There is a non-linear distribution of fuel from that injector. And at higher rpms it can be pretty messy. No matter what you do you still have analog fuel delivery. Until injection technology improves the performance of the injectors, the best you will hope for is a compromise between 'least messy' alternatives.

"Then again, i've always wanted to run one of these motors with an automatic... if only i could get a TH350 or 400 bolted up to the damn thing." They DO make adapters for that, you know... Powerglides as well...

I've found that someone else used different thermostat arrangements for cooling the Z independent of my surmising. And they did it to great effect. I think there are legs to an alternate arrangement. "Amot Truck Thermostat" do a search and be surprised! LOL

I got socks just like those! I'm wearing them now... Even the best ported stock intake manifold (at yes, 35mm diameter) will still be down on flow by about 30CFM over a properly ported intake runner. If you have your head ported, don't go real crazy---that manifold will likely flow in the 170-190cfm per runner range, so keep that in mind if you are shooting for a 'balanced equation' and want to keep velocities up in the ports. As for the question about measuring the ports---keep all those old intake and exhaust valves handy! Turning them down on a lathe and putting 'stops' on the stems allows you to make a progressively taperer runner FAR easier than eyeballing it. A little smudge of machinist's blue on the rim of the valve and dunking it down the port to a specific depth reveals high spots to be attended to, as well as insuring the taper you want is present. .5mm every 25mm runner length is hard to eyeball, but if you got some stepped gauges made from old valves. Then again, as a two-stroke man you're wondering why the hell we bothered with valves at all, right! LOL Press on...

Go get a new module, properly ground it through the bolt holes first THEN apply power and start troubleshooting. And consider testing with somthing more advanced than a test light. the 0-5VDC scale is more than resolute enough to verify CAS and ECU input/outputs for the sake of proper triggering at the last link in the chain (the HEI Module)...

Thinking on it some more, the real limit for boring would be the cylinder stud spacing. And don't the LD's have larger studs than the Petrol Engines? Tehcnically that would mean the bore of an LD would be limited slightly moreso compared to a Petrol Engine with the smaller head stud diameter.

Agreed, the Z-Series has a different 'tilt' to the engine, and the tranny will 'lay over funny' when bolted to it and put into the vehicle. L13,14,16,18,20 all will take the standard Six Cylinder Bellhousing and the tranny will sit correctly. But as stated earlier 'That came in the Trucks' isn't really helping anybody say yes or no, other than us limbers out there...

But does it produce 30KPa at a 900 rpm idle with a 575" lift, 280+ Duration Cam? When you aren't producing any idle vacuum from a big cam, alpha-n/blend is a nice option to have...