Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
I ditto BRAAP's comments.
He hits the reasons for the binding issue.
The only times I have seen L-Cam Towers line-bored was after someone heliarced them to repair a galled saddle and needed to line the repaired tower up with the others in the set (curiously they used a VW Line Boring Apparatus, modified, to do this!) The reason for the repair was they didn't have another set of towers to use as a set. When using a mismatched set of towers I've seen them lined to fit. When using the cast-iron towers (L4's) when installing bronze cam bushings.
The point being, as BRAAP said, if there is a reason for the binding, fix the reason---line boring the tower will only mask the root cause.
Surfacing the bottom of the head, but not the top is a BIG cause for this kind of bind. A head with a 0.008" warp resurfaced on the bottom only can have no oil wedge at all in one of the towers towards one edge, and just be skirting disaster on the edge of a bearing living on oil spilloff...then you get a burp in oil pressure or suck some foam in a corner and the oil wedge drops minimally, the edge of the cam bearing runs on bare aluminum long enough to 'grab' and then either the cam snaps, and you get a galled tower...or something else lets go. Sure, it turned fine... I'd look for top surface warpage or see if the head was surfaced properly. That would be my first suspicion especially if the head was returned from the surfacing shop with tight cam towers (mine come back in a box, usually!)
-
I really do love seeing a 2+2 with power. Right now I have my 2+2 looking fast, but with no power to back it up.
What do you think of a 2+2 with power versus a coupe with the same power?
It's an invalid comparison. My Fairlady Z 2+2 weighs considerably less than a comparable year US-Spec Coupe.
With me in it at 255#, I scaled in my 75 Fairlady Z 2/2 at 2695#...
Do the math.
Bryan's ZL model is slightly heavier...but I doubt Bryan is 255#, either!
Really, the comparison is 'Fairlady -vs- US Market' and the Fairladys always feel sportier, faster, and more connected IMO than a US Spec model. Stock for Stock. Gearing is better suited for the power range of the engine, the car is lighter, all the springs and bushings are stiffer...
Really, after starting out in a Fairlady Z and owning only Fairlady Z's for close to 6 years it was a shock for me when I drove my first US Specification vehicle as the first impression I got was what a 'wallowing pig' the US Spec model was handling wise.
-
You know what most people will say.
Its dumb to do it because of the fact that we now have EFI!
It will be easier to tune.
Carb are unpredictable because of weather changes.
Well personally that's all dumb FACTS!
I love Old school tech. We live in the west coast so it the weather doesn't change that much and drastically. (Almost spring and summer all year long)
It is doable as long as you have money! of course.
I hope those carbs aren't 40's! too small for turbo. At least 44mm. check the butterfly if it says 175. If it is great start. Look for a surge tank plenum. Not that hard if you have money.
any other questions you can PM.
I don't recall anybody saying it was 'dumb', but then again masochisim never is well undestood by those who aren't 'into it' as well.
It's not a matter of dumb, or anything like that. It's that it's cheaper, easier for people to get right quicker, is on most of the current generations 'learning curve' and the most important 'dumb' thing of them all: It's hands down reliable.
Far from it to be driveable and reliable.
Most people who rave about 'the good old days' weren't there to experience it firsthand.
If you want to actually DRIVE the car in varying conditions...go EFI and don't waste your time.
I'm not saying it's dumb, but I'll remind people that 'old school tech' encompasses HKS ITB Throttle Bodies, or SK ITB's and a generic, hidden EFI controller. Same Blowthrough Plenum, and about...ooooooh 27-30 years old? That old tech enough?
If you want 'old tech' for Turbo, look to a 'Turbo Toms' drawthrough, or a Crown Conversion using a Corvair E-Flow Turbocharger and no wastegate, with a single SU providing fueling.
I've got one of each, and can extoll the virtues and vices of each. Thank gawd I don't have to drive them every day!
And before anybody retorts about EFI being 'hi tech' or 'new tech' I'll remind you the Datsun has had EFI since 1975. The VW Type 3 since 1968.
And in aftermarket applications, the 240Z Rally Cars in 71 or 72 had a JECS ITB EFI Setup!
So before you slough off EFI as not being worthy of being classed as "Old School Technology" get those facts straight... You can have EFI hardware on that car from the early 80's and be TOTALLY 'period correct'!
I know I do, and I am.
That you have updated a hidden component to provide much better control is never seen (the EFI Computer). The look is still spot on period correct to those who know what they are looking at, and the thought of that old school EFI componentry always gets noticed.
Nice find on the pair. How low is the VIN on the 69?
-
There are people that can think their way out of almost anything. There are others that just either don't want to, or just plain can't.
This was illustrated on that same flight. There was a guy in rags. Literally. Older than the hills, escorted to the plane seat by someone, telling him how to do everything along the way. The guy was shown how to use the baggage cars to move his bindle around the waiting area.
But I watched that guy sit in the seat, and look to the left and right of him to see that the people next to him were pulling the grey snakes up around their bodies to strap in...
I watched as he turned around and fished for them while the other people buckled their belts. So he was in the same spot as the guy next to me (he was in his early 30's at the latest...so you would think 'technologically exposed' this kid was...)
Grandpa in the rags gets the two dissimilar pieces up in front of mis face, examines them, looking intently at them. Screws with the latching end and lifts the lever... then on the first try tenatively 'puts tab A into slot B' and clicks it closed. Lifts the lever, and the belt slips out...kind of nods his head like "oh OK, I got this" reinserts it and then goes back into some meditative state or something.
All the while youngster is repeatedly slamming the tab into the release latch side of the buckle.
I mean, we're not talking knowing anything about cars, this is a guy who claimed to be a Project Manager (in his early 30's) not being able to figure out a 'simple machine'...
I have known plenty of guys who space on stuff because they have a head full of particulars all the time. That's not what I'm talking about.
I was just aghast that someone who appeared to be putting his full attention towards a task (given his stated profession) couldn't get it! And the guy who you would never think would get it...examined, and 'got' it without any intervention from outside assistants.
Just interesting. I watch people...
I like to watch...
-
Up to aboutfour hours ago, I dismissed the blase airline instructions given by the flight attendants.
You know, the ones that, on Southwest at least have taken on a joking tilt: "If you don't know how to put on a seat belt, you deserve to bounce around the plane if we crash, please try not to hit any of the other passengers!"
Today, as I was leaving on a Lufthansa flight from Morocco, the guy in the seat next to me was fumbling with the seat belt...
Now, he wasn't a fat, corpulent bugger like me. He was not struggling to get the latch to reach the clasp.
I watched out of the corner of my eye as he repeatedly, for a period of two minutes, tried inserting the latch into the 'lift to release' end of the buckle assembly.
I mean, trying in earnest and getting really flustered because it wasn't catching!
It wasn't until the attendant clicked the seatbelt in the 'fasten your seat belt by putting the latch into the buckle so, and releas by lifting so...' demonstration. She had actually did it one time, and he stopped and watched it the second time, then rearranged and fit his buckle.
Now, I was trying reallllllly hard to be 'culturally sensitive' save for the guy was wearing a suit that cost more than most of the cars I've bought recently...
During the flight, we strike up a conversation... I'm expecting him to be some sort of marketing guy, you know?
Nhap! He's 'an engineer'---I figure 'engineer' in a broad sense of the European Definition like a guy that works on stuff.
No, the guy is an 'Engineering Manager in Charge of Upgrade Projects' at a local refinery in Morocco. Mechanical Engineer....
I am aghast.
My only consolation was that I told myself that, as a manager, he only supervises people and hopefully the people he supervises know which way the buckles are supposed to go...
I'm not shocked by much...but this one set me back a bit.
Talk about 'Non-Tech, Off Topic'---how's that?
-
I'll go look the kenyan up while in Nigeria.
Right after I find the guy who keeps e-mailing me about that 28 billion put into a numbered swiss account...
-
I would have welcomed the chance to take on the bear...
I get wood every time I see the final scene in "Legends of the Fall"
And yes, I did throw the Nest into the car, and then held the door closed so the occupants could consider their previous pranking against me...
I got wood reading that story... Though, personally I think I would have taken the cubs home as pets and raised them...letting them roam my yard and keep the Z's safe. Kinda outdoes a Rottie Couple in the same function. I would name them 'Zeus' and 'Apollo' and teach them to 'sic balls' like that dog in the movies!
LOL
-
"wow this is cool I'll bet i could make something out of this, I better get it".
That has to be an instinctual Michigan thing. I say the same thing!
Cool site. Bookmarked. Gracias!
-
Very JDM! They are big on segment bends in Japan, I think there is more tradition involved or showing off their welding ability than any other practical reason for doing it nowadays. Mandrel Bends are readily available now, for the most part negating 'having' to segment bend tubing for turbos and exhausts.
Thank Gawd!
-
Dude with Militant Rabbit Avatar Wrote:
"I cant license it as an antique because then your limited on how many miles or where you can drive the car and its my daily driver."
How do they enforce the annual mileage limitations on 'Antique Vehicles'?
Is there an Annual Declaration you must make to the state?
Do they use an Annual Declaration to your insurance company?
Do they require you to come in and randomly have the mileage verified?
Do they require you to make an affirmation that you will not exceed some set mileage limit, or do they merely inform you that is the limit and to not exceed it?
/The following is Not a Political Statement, merely Observation of Fact, I'm Not trying to circumvent site protocols on political discussions, nor to start one./
Legislators are big on telling you what to do...but in many cases are very sorely lacking in followup. There are several states that make similar such requirements but have absolutely no mechanisims in place to confirm or track that the vehicle is not used in the manner which it is relicensed! No actual realtime mileage tracking.
I had a heluva time with AAA SoCal because for years my wifes Corvair and my 73 240 registered '0' miles annually. Kept getting kicked out of their system, and required them to call us informing us of our error. "We didn't drive it last year." Seems simple, huh? Don't get me started on what happened when they were dropped from the insurance roles, but inadvertently got registration paid and not PNO status put onto them...
-
"Homestead" or "Homeland"? If "Homeland" that's basically where I'm at...Mead Valley.
Except for right now. Now, I'm in Morocco. Soon, Nigeria.
-
If memory serves, a Volkswagen Flywheel that was supposedly never designed to be run above 5000 rpms was only allowed 1 gm/cm imbalance.
Then again, they were forged chrome-moly too...those crazy Germans!
That sounds like a lot to me, but I'm suprised it's in the flywheel and not the clutch-cover. Usually the flywheels are pretty stable and don't 'go out' unless something is coming apart. I would not not use it unless it was penetrant checked or magnafluxed.
-
When I added the Class III receiver to the back of the 75, I incorporated oval holes in the brackets that let a 5/16" chain threaded link fit in there...made it EASY to tie down, tow, or LIFT the car! Having that receiver on the back makes for a convienient jacking point as well...
On some of the new rental cars (I checked out my VW Jetta Diesel I had in Spain...) they have a nice forged tow-eye in the spare tire tool kit. Screws into a place on the car. I have a couple of forged eyes that screw into the bumper holes I use to lift cars to the upper berth in the shipping containers when containerizing them...if you aren't running a rear bumper, those forged eyes screw in really nicely!
And even on the front, you can screw em into some of the chassis mounting points on the frame rail to accomplish similar tie-down/light towing duties.
-
Horsepower for sure...they were running 150mph range in G/BMS, which means with the 2-liter they were going almost as fast as us with the F-Motor (3 Liter N/A). I really would like to check out the engine setup. I can't remember if their website showed any engine detail shots or not...but it's gotten me curious... "Half a Big V-8" comes to mind...
"Brick" is what I was thinking as well. The differences between the 2007 photos and this one I posted may simply be the front end removed for towing...but with that bitchen foldaway tow-lever it's an open question as to why the nice airbrushed lower panel is not on the car and there is salt on some of the exposed work there...
-
Jeff P already stated he has done the homework, the hardness of the lobes, the proper profile.
Like he said, 'it has all been done before'...
There are several cam grinders in SoCal that will grind a roller cam profile, and know how to do so. There are a couple that will even take the time to explain the process in detail. Including the steps needed to turn a Nissan core into a suitable core for grinding a roller profile onto it.
Malvern Racing had roller cams and roller rockers available for the L-Engine. Dave has passed away, and his roller cam, roller follower information/developmental work was sold to a buyer on e-bay. The thread concerning that transaction is in the archives here at Hybrid Z.
BTW, I don't see anything but red 'x' for the photos, so maybe they didn't go through.
-
I'll also add Clifton is correct in that you can size your compressor for the proper needs of the engine, or move your boost threshold around to get a 'properly sized' turbo dynamic.
But if you have a high-flow unit for up high breathing, and a hotside setup for down-low torque---then setting up a bypass valve for partial throttle minimum flow situations keeps the thing working without having the surge issue.
-
Your throttle plate is in between your two pressure points. unless you are checking under WOT conditions, I would fully expect to see this on todays 'hard blowoff' bypass valves.
See if you can get your blowoff to work to lift and relieve pressure under partial throttle, or even lift-throttle. That blowoff should LIFT and sound like a "sigh" at the slightest lift of the throttle. I know it's not in vogue to not have a hard-PSHHHHT!!!!-sounding blowoff, but that is what it should be doing. Partial throttle 'driving around' will cause a minimum-flow surge for sure...and that is really what your bypass (blowoff) valve is there to prevent. It keeps the minimum stable flow through the turbine to keep it out of surge. What you previously characterized as a 'boost leak' was actually what you need due to the flow characteristics of the turbo! If the backside of the BOV is tubed to the manifold, it should never have an issue with sealing under WOT or near WOT conditions. People think the BOV should 'seal tight' under all circumstances and this just is not correct. It's supposed to blow off at anything but WOT or near WOT. "Compressor Bypass" -- it lessens the load and keeps the turbo speed up for instantaneous boost once you go to WOT. It's a very misunderstood dynamic, made worse by the recent ricer movies that characterize the 'hard' blowoff noise as 'the thing to have'. Listen to the original Wangan Midnight movie made in the mid 80's and you will hear a proper 'sigh' of the BOV and release of pressure, as well as it doing the minimum flow function. BOV is a really bad misnomer. It's a 'compressor bypass valve' and should be 'leaking' if it's doing it's job. If you don't have one that is tubed on the backside of the diaphragm to hte manifold, get one...the others are a compromise...as you are finding out firsthand!
Because it's not venting, you are seeing the pressure rise on the discharge of the turbo, while the throttle plate is partially closed (throttling...) and you are running into the problem because of it.
If you don't have the issue under WOT, and don't have the same readings under WOT conditions, likely the I/C is not your issue...
inadequate venting of excess flow during times of partial throttle or low flow is...
You may want to move your wastegate reference back on the turbo discharge side of the manifold as well, as your wastegate is not opening under these same conditions preventing the overspeed of the turbo causing the upstream pressure rise.
G'Luck!
-
They have a Web Page with a lot of information on their efforts. They are a nice group of guys. "It's nice to see another Z up here breaking records!" kind of introduction.
They are running in the 3 Liter, Blown Fuel Modified Sports class. if you go to the SCTA website, you can see their record run speeds in the miles... like 215, 218, 220... holding and still accelerating at that speed. They have gone over 220mph in that car in some other classes.
The SCTA Archival site is kind of gone, so past photos are hard to find if you didn't download them when they were available. And those are all on the archive drive at home, or on the other laptop. Otherwise our 2+2 photo would be up there...it's floating around on the site someplace. I just don't have access to it, and someone may be hosting it elsewhere other than the old SCTA-BNI site.
And that's not a long front end, BTW. Stringfellow and Kirk stretched their 14 feet in the cowl section between the a-pillar and the back of the front wheel well!
-
The guys at DC Water Jet broke another record at over 202 mph during Speed Week this year (8/08). I think this photo bears some scrutiny for what they have on it compared with what the Aero Testing Revealed. From the prior records on the fender you may or may not be able to see that this car has gone 221 mph in the past... Real speeds verified and registered. It's kind of shocking when you look at the car in the light of what the testing revealed.
I mean, this car is going a good 30 (to 50!!!) mph faster at Bonneville than our slicked-up 2+2 with a G-Nose and the light covers, blocked radiator inlet, and full belly pan.
They are running this year in F/BFMS, which is 3 liter (F/), Blown (
, Fuel (F), Modified Sports (MS)...which MS is the class you run in with a 240-280 that has non-stock body mods, after that all the other stuff should be self explanatory in the class.So take a look at what they are running and comment as you will.
-
Not really our 2+2, but DC Water Jet finally broke the record at over 200 mph (202.743mph on 8/08) and WOO HOO!
This is their car...
Low?
-
FYI the windshield is the same on all the S30/S31 vehicles, so you don't need to specify a 2+2, the coupe will work fine in your application.
There is a small technical difference on the windshield gasket for the 2+2, though, in that the channel for the pinch weld at the base of the frame is slightly wider to accomodate a thicker sandwich of metal. This difference is minimal, and using a coupe gasket has never caused me any issues, using plenty of soap as lubricant they slip right in and seal perfectly in every instance I've used them.
Shipping Glass in an international crate, you may want to consider buying several windows at a time, the crating and shipping cost will be roughly equivalent for 5 as it will for 1. Increases your chance of having an undamaged one to go straight into your car as well!
Insure the shipment heavily.
I saw someone in Maryland (I believe) that was shipping auto glass for 510's, he was a glass dealer...you might check on e-bay for that seller.
Good Luck!
-
I believe he carpeted it, and the gas tank may have been up there as well Ala VW Beetle... I forget.
-
Some people have said for years to concentrate on the turbo and EMS...
The stock bottom end is far more stout than everybody gives it credit for...the problem is with detonation, not durability of the stock parts.
Keep detonation away, and they stand up suprisingly well for a suprisingly long period of time!
-
My Toyota bud got wood when I linked him to that photo. Apparently that is a one-year only Toyota Celica Liftback Panel, JDM rare as rare can be.
He even sent me catalog references and part numbers!
My comment 'wasn't that the same tail light panel that was on the Liftback I ran into the Seawall and we took to the scrapyard for the engine-blow the next weekend?'
He was not amused...apparently my recollection was correct, and apparently I trashed an uber-rare Toyota Part in the process (Had I known it was Nissan-Compatible with such a cool look I probably would have kept it!).
Meh, Toyota Parts!
I think our Bonneville 280Z 2+2 looks pretty good... Especially the one photo of it passing mile marker 3 at the flats going 170+....
, Fuel (F), Modified Sports (MS)...which MS is the class you run in with a 240-280 that has non-stock body mods, after that all the other stuff should be self explanatory in the class.
head cleaning
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
I would simply depress the valves and blow the ports out with solvent, generous ammounts of solvent.
I would not pull the valves and reinstall them, the risk for cutting the stem seals would put me off on that.
Really, if the engine is prelubed properly valve greasing is not an issue. From my experience the white grease is more to lube up the stem so it passes through the seal more than anything else. If you have the ports sideways like they are when installed on the engine, and the valves down and opened, and flush in that position, any grease you might flush off is extra anyway, and will do nothing other than get washed off by fuel vapors when you start the engine...or gloop down onto the back of the valve head and drop in the cylinder when hot.
Personally, I'm not a big lubricator so that it shows all outside of the friction surfaces. If I was 'preservative action' I'll use something persistent and spray on like cosmoline.
You want something that picks up grit and dirt and is really persistent in not giving it up under a solvent bath? Try cosmoline. Old Cosmoline. Hard, sticky, tacky, cosmoline.
Good Luck!