Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I'm glad you like the g-nose, but i don't. I absolutely love the wide-body, but not the g-nose.
More of a cosmetics kinda guy than functional, huh?
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USAF stopped using Simple Green?
That was the 'latest and greatest' and was supposed to supplant PD-680 for immersion degreasing.
That PD-680 and "Gas Path, Engine Oil NOI" are the two biggest thefts I miss not being in the USAF any longer...LOL
That gas path stuff would do wonders on aluminum.
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gawd, I can't count the number...so many at lein sale. Bought, stripped, adn scrapped. I had the tow yard asking me if I wanted 'extras' at one time or another. Was picking them up for as little as $100 at one time!
There are 4 left in the back yard now, each with designs on it.
79 Slicktop Coupe
79 Slicktop 2+2
80 Slicktop 2+2
83 ZXT 2+2 (GL)
Scrapped... man, that I can think of that were 'memorable'
83 ZXT Coupe simply because it had a brand new Nissan Service Replacement Block, Turbo, and Injector Set---with a BW-5speed all for $475
82 Coupe hit so hard on the right side the suspension broke off the subframe. It had a list of components to 'repair' it inside, along with dates and receipts.Seems like the clutch slipped while they were in an intersection and they got T-Boned. Got it for $100 due to not being a roller, pristine paint, leather interior...but the passenger's seat was crushed it was hit so hard. My son found a $10 roll of quarters between the pass seat and the tunnel, and cut it out with a knife. I found two checks in the pocket of a shirt, one made out to cash, the other to someone else. When I called the check's writer (address and phone on the checks, they were only 31 days old when I found them!) He commented the 'bastard' took off wihout finishing his garden job---so I figure the guy was an illegal and got the free ride home after the accident, there was a half-eaten burrito on the pass floorboard. So the guy re-wrote the check to ME since he already wrote off the money, and had no problem with me cashing the second one since it was made to 'cash' anyway. That was one check for $215 and another for $247. When I told the impound guys what was in the shirt in the back of the car...they shat!
80 2+2 with 186,000 miles I got for $100. Looked like a pig, but someone had put new starter, alternator, injectors, clutch, fan clutch, and tires on it before it got impounded. T-Roofs were all spidercracked and held together with window tint. Could not get it to pass smog, despite running smoothly---there was a 2" hole through the center of the monolith brick! When I scrapped it, I found someone had cut the entire wiring harness going up front and then butt-spliced the whole thing back together. Maybe that's why the electrics were so iffy... That engine and transmission is still in my 75 GS30 Fairlady 2/2, now with almost 230K miles on it and still running strong.
A 79 Slicktop Coupe for $500. It was another example of what happens when people don't have a license and registred vehicle. Got impounded with a new radiator, tires all 'round, Blaupunkt Stereo, thing was black on black and clean. Flipped it for $3500 two days after I registered it and put it in the paper.
A slew of pigs mostly 81 ZXT's for some reason where the only thing I ended up keeping was the Engine and ECCS Harness, and the Differential. Plus alloys. I think right now I have 12 of the six-spoke wheels with good tires just sitting around with no place to put 'em. I use them to go pick up a car when I'm not too sure about it's tires. I think I had 6 of those go through the back yard in one summer. I called it "The Summer of 81's!"
81 Slicktop 2+2 I bought for $100 out of impound, just for the alloy rims and the roof. Cut the roof off, took the FOUR-Spoke (like the 77/78 Star Alloys!) Rims off and sold the engine trans for $500 to someone else. Scrapped the hulk in chunks for some $$$ as well.
There were others, but it was just pull em in, pull the hard parts, and scrap the hulk. Nobody wants ZX interior parts, I couldn't GIVE prime stuff away, so after a three year period of storing pristine body parts I gave up; I loaded an entire 82 2+2 to the ROOF with the stuff, and called PYP to come take it away since my trailer was down...otherwise I would have scrapped it myself. I think I still had a dumpster full of parts I just trashed to clear it out. For all the talk of people wanting stuff, I offered it free to anybody who wanted it, and they were unwilling to ship, drive, or do anything that required effort on their part to pick up the stuff.
I think I gave two pair of ZX T/C rods, one to DonnaZXT, and another to someone else. They were the only two people who would pay for their own shipping.
280ZX's make great driveline donors...
I am to 280ZXT's what the stroker crowd is to guys with Diesel Maximas. They call them "Crank Vampires", I guess you could call me a "280ZX/ZXT Driveline Vampire"! /Dracula Voice/ "I want to pull your driveline, mu-ha ha ha ha ha!"
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Single O2 Sensor or dual?
There may be a Maxima Cross for an N/A setup...but for a DET you would be looking for a Z31 application here in North America likely... Even that's a stretch, as I'm not aware (not a Z31 Fan...) of a DET available here stateside for the Z before the Z32, and then it was a DETT setup with the requirement of dual O2 Sensors.
Maybe one of the other ECUs would work and then you could 'Nistune' the fuel and timing maps for the turbo application. That might work from something like the 92-94 Maxima, it had a VG30DE...with a single O2 sensor, then remap the injection timing for the turbo.
good luck eh!
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There has been some work in Europe on a Roll Cage utilizing Chrome-Moly Tubing that is put inside the original crash structures of the car...
But we are talking that involves some very detailed body disassembly, and competent calculations. The shop doing it does FIA Certified Roll Cage Engineering, and the proprietor is a former F1 Team Engineer from the 80's.
It's neat from what I saw of it...reminiscent of Tim Allen's "Hidden Cage" Saleen done up a few years back.
That kind of tells you the costs involved in properly designing and installing a 'street safe' roll structure. At least one that is mostly hidden from view.
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I think that article will get linked to my son...
"So, what do you need to know about algebra for, anyway?"
With the way that article is explained, he should be able to follow it, and I know they're graphing curves in his class now, so it will be a real world example that may open his eyes close to home for an application.
I suspected most of those calculators were using Crank HP, that gives me the explanation of the '202' hp I got with that one, opposed to the 150 or so on some of the others (close to the G-Tech and Dynojet number of 147--which are supposed to be "RWHP")
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Where is that E32 manifold? I have NEVER seen that one before. If it's complete with the accompanying carburetor (even if the carb is shot) send me a PM...and throw in a price. I'd be willing to spend some $$$ to get that thing statesite and stick it on a car (er...I'm thinking early 810...) and watch people scratch their heads.
It is similar in the radius to what I recall the Mercedes units with, and the separate runners in the manifold make sense to keep velocity up on the smaller barrels while running around town with the secondaries not engaged. Then when you open it up, you get the full flow of the setup through both runners---keeping velocity high on the small primaries and insuring the secondaries don't open till sufficient draw is there for the secondaries to give adequate velocity in the larger secondary portion of the runner.
What application did that come on? S30's were all SU'd. Even 260's. I'm thinking performance sedan, like 240K or something along those lines. I have a serious case of the "I want it's" right now! You bastard! I want that manifold and carb now. lol
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Oh, if you have a B.S.M.E. what are you interested in? Rotating Equipment??? There are opportunities all over Los Angeles for BSME contract, long term, permanent hire, or freelance.
Santa Monica would normally have been "Aerospace Related" but that's changed. Still work out there, but not like there was 'in the day'...
There's always waiting tables on the pier... LOL
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Easy Off is an Alkaline Cleaner, and DOES have the potential to harm aluminum. For the block and it's crud, it would be great, but I would shy away from it on aluminum. If you want to use alkaline cleaning you can make up a 5 or 10 gallon batch of cleaner using "Vanish" toilet bowl cleaner---really active cleaner for carburettor bodies, but you have to watch closely, or it WILL turn the aluminum and mazak bodies BLACK...and from there, the disolving begins!
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Ahh yeah, stainless. Well it does hold up very well for most purposes, but Heat + moisture + dirt/salt/anything will really mess up stainless. ... You're not going to see the bottom anyway.
Chances are you won't likely see the top, either.
Stainelss steel is the preferred OEM choice for high temperature undercar applications simply due to it's resistance to heat transmission.
This would be FAR superior to Aluminum, and 'all things set correctly' the mirrored side would be set to reflect any heat it does get to make for the most beneficial setup for the application.
I'm not sure what you're driving at with your post, in one breath you say one thing, then come along and say 'you're not going to see it anyway'...
I don't have mirrored stainless laying around. I DO have dull stainless laying around. I really don't care one way or another which way he installs it, but from a functional standpoint, the mirror should face the heat source. Regardless of what happens to it in use.
As for ceramic coating, with a ceramic/stainless sandwich, there will be very little transmission. In that case, I would agree that you may get a benefit from ceramic coating the BOTTOM piece for additional transmission impedance...but if you are seriously worried about salt splashing up THAT HIGH in the engine bay, I might suggest not driving on the beach so much.
I would be suprised to see salt spray anywhere above the PCV Vent in the block. VERY suprised. Expecially on a Z Car with ITBs being driven in the winter when salt is on the roads...aside from summer beach running, that is.
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The shutoff breaks the circuit to the source of power most likely to cause problems after a shunt...in most cases this is the battery. Sanctioning bodies have their reqirements, and if you are going to compete, follow their notations to the letter. Most cars will not function properly with a simple disconnect switch on the positive alone, it will require a secondary set of contacts to disconnect the alternator.For storage purposes, maintenance disconnect or 'theft provention' either would likely work as well.
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Alcohol only combines with the water, it does NOT disblace it.
It's a fine point, to be sure, but WD 40 (as much as I hate the stuff) DOES physically displace water. Moves it out of things and replaces it with itself.
If you have ever seen a rusty nut in the bottom of an open vodka bottle, you will realize using alcohol to 'remove' water from ferrous alloys is only so effective.
Alcohol combines with water, but the corrosive effects of the water are still possible...if you've ever wiped alcohol onto a piece of 4340 that is polished, you can see water droplets left behind if someone was lax in capping even the 'good' 99% technical grade isopropyl stuff used to clean high speed (50K+) rotating equipment bearing jounrals and etc.
But when you spray it lightly with WD, you will see water droplets coalesce and drop away if large enough. It's a wierd compound, and how it does it I don't know...but as a penetrating oil IMO it sucks. As a water displacement compond, it's hard to beat. I buy both Isoproply 99% Technical Grade, and WD 40 by the gallon can for my work.
One is for cleaning, one is for driving out water. At least the way I see it.
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The thread previous to my last stated, denoted, linked all those adapters.
They are metric ISO STright Threads on one end, and whatever A/N Size you want on the other. you would use the thread size mentioned in the previous thread to my last, and write it out as "METRIC SIZE" X -10A/N
The Nissan Cooler uses screw in fittings, so just replace them with the appropriate A/N Fitting...
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BTW, I said the Japanese were under High Boost Conditions. I realize you are still below 20.
The Japanese were boosting well in excess of 18psi when this was happening, and likely since it was carburetors they were using, it was a detonation incident that caused the splitting (from a dirty jet usually),
Back then, if you weren't running at least 1.5 Bar, and triple OER 50's you didn't get close to running with the back of the pack.
Mikuini 44 Blowthrough setups like mine running only 17psi (and the occasional bump to 20-21) were considered mildly modified and suitable for daily driver usage. They weren't anything worthy of racing, they were just drivers. I had no problem with that.
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I'm having a bad day with the noobs in the zoo...come here for my first post check...and this is what I get.
Where's my rope? Time to end it all!
LOL
(Nothing personal of course!)
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Actually, the freon intercoole was done as an industrial arts / automotive enrineering project back in the 70's. That is old news.
Now, about that Magnetic Cooling (oh, wait, that was the 1920's)
There are very few things that are new. We all like to think we invented something, but fact of the matter is someone out there probably thought of it some time in the past, and did it.
Wether they got paid for it or not...that's something altogether different! LOL
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98 mph in the 1/4 mile with a 3000 pound car (2800 pounds plus 200 pound driver) takes 220 hp if you go by the following formula.
hp = weight x (1/4 mile trap speed/234)**3
Your traction must be pretty bad. You should be running at least mid 14's with a 98 mph trap speed. For example, a 350z typically runs 14.0 at 100 mph. Try again with some fresh rear tires.
So then the G-Tech is low? At the San Antonio Dragway I was pulling something like high 90's and a 15.50 at the top of third gear through the lights. Admittedly I was spinning like crazy on street tires, but it was consistently 1 second faster than the guy in the 76 Silver Coupe that started swearing at me that there was 'no way in hell that engine is stock!'...
Yep, from a $100 Junkyard 186K mile 1980 280ZX 2+2!!! Now got 225+K on it, and still running strong. I hear they run the strongest....just before they let go...
Incidentally, somewhere I have the weight ticket from the return road scales at the San Antonio Dragway. That was a good Convention...had a blast. Save for that Toyota Truck rear-endo on I-10 in Houston. That caused duress during the vacation.
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It sounds like the best upgrades you can do are the T3/T4 turbo, larger injectors, and a larger less restrictive exhaust.
Without a ported head or a cam, you simply will run more boost to make the HP---there's where your T3/T4 (GT35? Take your pick...) comes in, more flow at higher boost pressures, and that intercooler.
With that air, you will need fuel, so there comes your larger injectors.
But probably the first thing to do is uncork the exhaust. 20HP from JeffP's observations on an otherwise stock ZX is nothing to sneeze at, and it helps you down the road for everything else.
I'm not sure why you used a MAP sensor for what you are doing though. The MAF will measure flow into the engine. Flow is flow, and it correlates fuel requirements based on flow into the engine. What boost that flow happens at is pretty much irrelevant, you just need to tune your tables to match fuel flows to air flows and go from there. MAP sensor for datalogging should be nice, though...
WBO2 setup as well?
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How did you know that there is a 3M in Valley!??! Have you lived here? Anyways, so will I still use these bolts (dont even know what they're called) and find some banjo fittings or do I remove those and buy a converter piece at this tractor hardware store?
The other thread pretty much covers the thread sizes---those may be something you will have to order from Pegasus. But the local tractor place may have them.
As for my geographic knowledge of various regions...to paraphrase G. Gordon Liddy quoting another federal inmate "Don't mess with Tony D, D knows things!"
I'm a literal Johnny Cash Song "I've been every-where, man... I been everywhere!" LOL
Like I know how those six Iowa Troopers shoot radar across the river on EB I-80 north of Omaha on the Council Bluffs Side and tag cars coming into the state (they do it crossing the bridge as well on the south side of Omaha...bastiges!) Like I said before, I observe useless things that are completely and utterly insignificant, yet screw with people's heads at the most inoportune times!
Somewhere, I believe there is a photograph of me standing underneath the 'Wahoo' sign there at the fork in the road you take to go to Valley coming out of Omaha.
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The place in Temecula does classes nationwide. Yeah, I just checked their website, it's the place in Temecula.
http://www.efi101.com/press/02-01-07.html
They opened a new facility with three dyno bays down there early last year. Big local 'come in and take classes campaign. They were doing classes locally , worldwide, etc (still do). They are about 20 minutes from the house. Right around the corner from where ZCCIV meets.
Garrett Engine Boosting Systems is usually looking for people down at the R&D Facility in Lomita. But there are plenty of dealerships and etc looking for good people. It er...uh.... 'helps if you speak Spanish' if you are looking for any kind of shop management position.
Search DEVAS there are plenty of references here. Independent hydraulic actuation of valvetrain through electrohydraulic controllers with variable lift, duration, ramp opening and closing speed...the ability to run the engine like a diesel, with no throttle plate at all, engine speed is controlled through alteration of valve lift, timing, and fuel injected.
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Those in the photo appear to be 37 JIC. And this is reinforced by the fact that the page the poster linked to contains only AN/Metric Adapters, so that means 37 Deg JIC fittings (A/N)
The standard Nissan stuff is, oddly enough 45 SAE. The original hoses that went on the banjo bolts shown in the first photo, as well as the bulkhead and secondary hose assemblies that went outside the frame rails to the OEM cooler, as well as the Cooler itself indeed have 45 SAE fittings, but the idea behind using the adapters is to get rid of those damn metric banjo bolts in the first place, and use 'standard' A/N Hardware. (though metric banjos are also on that Pegasus page...)
If you want EITHER of these fittings, go to any Tractor or Farm supply where they make hoses. A Parker Hannifin Store, Goodrich Hose Store, The Hose Man, The Hose Pros, most Industrial Supply Houses.
Not only will they have the fittings, they can make up your hoses while you wait.
Failing that, as noted, Pegasus Racing has a full selection, as does Earls Supply, TMR or any number of other automotive racing supply warehouses.
But I find Tractor Hydraulic Hose is cheap, it's in stock 3 miles from my house, and for some reason crap for a Massey Furgeson doesn't cost an arm and a leg to get "Custom Fabricated" like it does when you go in and tell them it's for an Import you are hopping up...
"It's hot oil low pressure hose, maximum pressure 250psi, steel reinforced lines with maximum flexibility desired."
I'm thinking, if you're in Wahoo, a short drive past the 3M facility in Valley just outside of Omaha, and back towards town a piece is a JD Distributor that can hook you right up, if not at the local CoOp or Ag Supply Store. If you see Fuddruckers, the Holiday Inn, or Boys Town, you went to far, turn around and head back! I'm laying money you have a real hardware supply store in Wahoo, and can go to the back where they sell all the hydraulic stuff for PTO and Ag Implements and you will go 'WOW!' when you realize all this stuff was sitting right under your nose all this time. Sure, it's not flashy aluminum stuff, but we're not in an aircraft, weight is not THAT big an issue. And besides, the steel fittings don't gall up and become unservicable when you overtighten them! The pieces are nearby, you just needed to know where to look.
BTW, I used the same Tractor Hose place to totally convert the 45SAE fittings to 37JIC, including the two on the OEM cooler---they screw in, you know. Same as on the first generation RX7. Find one of those and you will have more oil cooler than you will ever need!
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DEVAS system rears it's head in the wishful thinking of people on the forum once again!
EFI University, that outfit from Temecula?
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There are basically six pins on the ZXT harness that you need to attend to, and if you have the wiring harness diagram for the 77 you can see places to hook them up to. Some wires either need to be piggybacked for alternative uses if you are not using the whole featured items from the harness (like FICD Valves, etc...) or having a sub harness made to handle the ignition output to the coil/ignitor connection. You could use that portion of the 83 harness, but it's a PITA to excise out of the body harness of the 83 and transfer it. The pins I refer to are the wires that go to EFI relay, Fuel Pump Relay, Power, Ignition and maybe two others (Ignition trigger and Ignition Signal In to ECCS). That's all you need to physically connect of the ZX harness to any application that isn't already hooked up to a sensor, component, or box that you took out of the ZX when you parted it.
You ARE using just the ECCS bits from the 83 correct? You're not transferring whe whole wiring harness and trying to make it work, right?
If you look at the diagram of the Haynes Manual specified in the L28ET to 240 post that seems to be really popular, it shows the connectors and gives wiring purposes for them.
The control logic of the combined EFI and Fuel Pump relay on the 77 is slightly different than on the ZX, but basically you can use an old 77 wiring harness to 'pigtail' the connections from the 83ZXT harness into, and PLUG RIGHT INTO the 77 body harness to make a sanitary no alterations to the 77 wiring harness hookup. You will have to run the ignition trigger wire (yellow or yellow with white trace if I recall) but there really is nothing you need to hack in the 77 to make the setup work. This is the connector from the EFI system that plugs into the main body harness up under the steering column. White, with I think six connectors in it. Plus a single white one on a blue wire that I will talk about later.
You just have to pin out the harness properly in the correct connector and plug it in. Randy 77ZT showed me that on his car YEARS ago, and for some reason once I saw that, it was like "OH!" and from there since it knew it could be done, it happened.
Unfortunately, right now, I'm like 6000+ miles from any notes or access to photos that would be remotely helpful to you with this. All I can say is 'it's easier to convert a 75-78 than it is to do any 240 or 260! All the wiring is there, you just need to interface like 4-6 wires, and run two more (for the ignitor).
Hell, the tach even works!
Oh, for a more direct answer to your question:
The three plugs into the ECU from the ECCS harness are out to the sensors(inputs and outputs). Basically they are grouped at power/grounds, sensors, and injection harness for fuel injectors. There is a single white spade connector in the main body harness of the ZX that hooks to a mating single spade connector on the ECCS harness---this is where the ECU gets the ignition pulse signal for RPM and Initiation of the injectors (the CAS only gives ignition signals so the ECU can send the trigger pulse to the ignitor, the coil MUST fire for the ECU to sense the coil is working and the engine running to fire the injectors.) This single spade connector DOES go to a pin in one of the three connectors, (input connector' if you want to name it, but it's a separate connection that comes directly from coil negative as an input to the ECCS (and EFI) Computer.
Luckily, in the 77, you ALREADY have that wire in the main harness, and it hooks up similarly in the EFI harness there. Then again, that may be one of the two wires I'm thinking you have to run, but I may be wrong. I think the wire is blue and comes directly from the Coil Negative. Same singel white plastic spade connector in both the Z and ZX, and they plug right in.
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I think you missed the exact quote they used: HOT soapy water. The hotter the better. It helps if the block is somewhat warm before you wash it as well as it aids in drying. Steam Cleaning or hot water washing that gets the block to 150F is a nice way to get it dry failry good, and then paint what needs to be painted, and WD 40 the rest.
The thing about hot blocks and washing---pores. Anything you put on it will 'soak in' to the extent possible, and 'weep out' over time. Think of it like an oilite bearing kinda... That WD will go in deep to the pores and keep water displaced for some time if you do this operation while the block is hot.
Plus, Hot Water and Simple Green or Dawn Dishwashing Liquid cuts grease and oil (surfectant action) much better when hot than when cold. Even with light machining oil, or water soluable cutting oil.
Hot as you can stand it through those latex dishwashing gloves!
Gtech hp
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Yeah, wanna neat trick with the first-gen G-Tech, watch the instantaneous G-Readout while doing your gear to gear shifts.
You can play aorund with shiftpoints and see results immediately.
For the price they go for on E-Bay these days, it's worth the paltry $$ to have it around just for that kind of playing. Two of them, and you can see laterals if you make your own bracket...
Or pay the $$ and get the PASS system, but I'm cheap. And convinced the SECOND I pay full price for a G-Tech AGAIN, they will come out the NEXT day with the subsequent generation, making mine worth about $40 NIB on E-Bay...like what happened the last time.