Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I've not done it Alan, like I said, the 'hack jobs' I have seen did indeed use the LHD rack, though.
In one instance, I know of someone who used a RHD Power Steering unit, 'flipped' so he had power steering in his 240Z
When I get back from here (Morocco, then Nigeria) I have a complete RHD, and I think LHD assemblies laying out at the house...I can photograph them side by side.
As I recall, in one of the illustrations in the steering rack section of the FSM it refers to a 'dot' on the splined shaft being in one orienation for LHD, and 180 degrees out for RHD.
But I'm closer to you than my stuff right now...
So the photos will have to wait.
It's still cheaper to buy one, that attempt a conversion. Especially in San Francisco...
They are out there, and they can be had cheap enough that it makes it worth while.
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I'd not reuse them... but who is saying the other pistons you get will be any better? You may end up weight matching with a set of drug scales (er...postage scales) and using POTL (Pick of the Litter) between the 12 you have to choose from...if I were using used parts, that would be where I'd tend to lean.
But only after very careful measuring of everything! Ring side clearance is like JS said, hare to 'eyeball' but once you stick a ring yer screwed!
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Arn brings up valid point on the heater blower assy, it is different.
For the $500 you spent on the rustfree 260, you can get a Fairlady Z for LESS than the cost of conversion.
I have not spent more than $1000 for ANY of the FOUR RHD Z-Cars sitting in my stable at the moment.
Yes, the rack flips---it's in the FSM for 'RHD' or 'LHD' orientation.
But frankly the 'conversions' I have seen here in the lower 48 have been hideous hack-jobs...a lot of work that turns a perfectly good donor car into worthless junk. Flame-Bent pedal clusters, no heater, Windshield Wipers that don't clear the windshield on the Driver's Side, an underdash morass of clipped, shortened, and cut wiring to make it fit on the 'short side' of the dash... The list goes on.
At least with a real Fairlady, you have a VIN that backs it for resale down the road.
For all the work involved (contrary to what others are saying) you get a car worth LESS than when you started. Desirable to nobody, that you're stuck with... I wouldn't buy any one of the 'conversions' I've seen here Stateside. There have been some nice RHD works done on Domestic stuff done in Oz and the UK that have been well executed, but the cost of the bodywork for the master cylinder reinforcement mounting plate cost more than your ENTIRE CAR.
Just be realistic... If you can buy one complete for less than the cost of coversion, why bother?
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Some have put an oval shorty muffler in a box under the driver's seat...
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I've had an L28 with anywhere from 275 to 350hp, depending on the boost level in my 73 240ZT since 1987. not a whimper on it, and well over 40K+ of HARD miles.
People who go for a ride with me in it comment that driving like me in that car is like most people's idea of throttle application at an Autocross. The chassis flexed coming off a corner one day, and cracked my windshield.
The L-Engine is reliable at the power level to 100K miles easily I would suspect...if not twice that.
Now, at 400HP, I think you decrease reliability accordingly using the stock components. Mine has stock pistons in it, no problem thusfar.
But much above this point, I'd likely go with something heavier in the piston department which I would forecast to withstand 500 hp levels in a turbo application the way I drive for 100K miles.
That's damn reliable in my book. And curiously, coincides with what Bernard has experienced.
People discount the L-Engine. It's a mistake. It's just most people go about modifying it in such a hamfisted way that they screw it up along the way and blame the engine and not themselves. It's not the engine's design problem if someone tuning it is an idiot. But it plays out that way because the engine never gets to tell it's side of the story.
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Really, the only way to determine the thickness is by tapping the stack downstream and taking a water column restriction reading at WOT peak torque, and peak horsepower. If it's appreciably more than a few inches of water column you will really afffect the pumping efficiency of the engine's intake.
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Just buy one, it's far cheaper, and they are out there.
There was a PAIR in Mississippi I believe, a 240Z and Fairlady Z "from two get one" was the way it read.
They are more common than you think, and the conversion is a PITA.
Far easier and cheaper to buy one. Especially in the Bay Area. They abound there...
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I point my finger and tell people whatever they did isn't according to our specifications, and that they need to do it over till I'm satisfied.
Then, and only then will I wave the magic 'warranty wand' and allow their newly purchased piece of rotating machinery be covered under our warranty.
When not in the field, I answer technical inquiries on the product line.
(Big Suprise to some of you, huh?)
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I do....
Thing is, it's garaged in SoCal.
And 'garaged' is a liberal term.
Not like I'll be taking it to the car shine out in front of the Holiday Inn Express over in Delmont, eh? Just watch the porno barn's parking lot just up the street...I like to park 'round back!
LOL
I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for that one driving around. Didn't think there was a Z in Export.
I work over on Enterprise Drive at the FSE complex....from time to time.
He he he he!
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The Japanese knew the N42 was what to use for 20+ year before someone on these shores took the time to rediscover it.
Normally anything less than 0.125" is considered too thin to be structurally sound, and you will want a liner in that case.
Braap recalls the discussion correctly.
BTW, the siamesing did not 'in turn' make the walls thinner. The casting was redesigned, with supposedly even cooling, the bores 'should' stay rounder, so the engineering rationale for the thicker walls of the N42 was no longer justified. The thicker walls of the N42 were used under the rationale that they needed all that extra beef to keep the bores round under extreme conditions.
In practice, the differences in concetricity is dubious, and the thicker walls of the N42 still work as well as ever to keep the cylinders round.
And as Bryan pointed out, some people don't run anti-freeze in their blocks (common in the 1960's when the L-Engine was designed) so thicker walls gives you 'corrosion capability'---unlike some of those F54 blocks that have paper thin walls due to corrosion pockets that have eaten away at the water jacket side of hte cylinders!
I think Bryan even experienced this on the DETT build!
No N42 came in the 260Z, the bore is 'not' 83mm because it came out of a 260Z. Look at the block serial number---the engine was replaced with an L28 some time ago.
There is no 83mm bore N42 block. They are all L28 86mm bores.
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There is an Orange 1970 (VIN # 4000, actually) sitting in the Garage on Paseo de Granada, just on the other side of the Barricades the PV people put up to keep out the Riff-Raff from Torrance/Redondo Beach...
Several more in PV, and a load in Torrance.
Many of them go to the GroupZ meeting in Buena Park every second Thursday of the month (Beach Blvd and the 91, 7PM---meeting there since forever. At least since I joined in 91...)
There is the West Side Z Coalition that has a page on Meetup as well.
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Ford USA builds a whole slew of CNG-Only engines available through their dealer network here. The whole modular V series is available.
The 5.4 I had in my E350 came from the factory with 13:1 Compression ratio, and apparently forged pistons. I thought it would make a nice econo-racer setup if it had a more agressive cam and ran it on racing petrol!
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Only downside (for a daily driver) is the lack of propane filling stations.
That's not really a downside...if you are commuting youcan easily locate two or three stations and fill as required.
The real downside to Propane is for the guys that live up north.
At -40 there is no tank pressure. The propane goes fluidic, and unless you supply heat to the tank, you won't likely get any tank pressure unless it warms up. THAT is a REAL downside.
4bbl would work well on the available manifolds!
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I used a tea strainer on the inlet to my turbocharger for the longest time.
Really, it's kind of restrictive, and there are better alternatives. The larger you can make your filter area the better it will filter. The velocity across the single-stack style filters is sky high. They only catch 'the shark sh*t' as my old tech school instructor used to say...
"Strainer" more than "Filter" if you follow that meaning.
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I guess a disconnect on the negative battery post to kill everything overnight is out of the question then...
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Don't lie to us, you bastard.
YOU WERE AT SPA ALL WEEKEND!
And these useless monkeys down here took Sunday off, and from all I can tell they took g-damned today off as well---or may have well had...didn't do a damn thing, and I'm no closer to leaving now than at 1500 Friday last!
The only thing better that could have happened here is that during 1939 to 1945...
Did I mention I hate the French?
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The LPG conversion I drove in Holland was really nicely done, and Megasquirt ECU'd to boot! And that was a tank that was strapped into the spare tire well shaped like a doughnut!!!
AND that is TUV approved. A bit more stringent than most EPA or DOT requirements IMO. But will you EVER see that type of 'DIY' retrofit offered for sale here in the USA? Doubtful.
There has to be a point where you jsut tell the Government "FOAD" and get on with your life. I'm to that point with a lot of automotive things. It's beomce clear to me that through the years it's less and less about competent legislation and more about keeping money in someone's pocket.
I'll probably illegally be importing one of hte LPG systems I saw some time in the future. I can fuel it at the local U-Haul or Mexican Grocery---where they won't give me hassles about 'doing it properly'---they just take my money and smile.
I like simple things, and living my life and driving my car in a clean manner should not require government approval. Especially if it's predicated on the fact that I have to buy a current-production vehicle at a cost of $30K+...
I have a house that didn't cost me that much.
Screw them.
Sorry for the rant. I probably shedded myself for this post. Hopefully not the whole thread, though. Some stuff just fills me up, and it boils over from time to time.
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Don't let lack of an EGR hookup stop you. I replaced at least THREE turbo EGR setups using nothing more than a standard forged steel pipe half-coupling (or stainless halfcoupling depending on the application) and replacing the piping with T316L 1/2" tubing using Swagelock STainless Steel compression fittings (As well a Parker A-Lock, and Imperial Eastman)
On the N/A setups I've used AN steel fittings in the past, but SS is really the only thing you want to use for the fittings and pipe. The 1/2" tube will clog faster but with the AN or Swagelock fittings you can make the tube a 90 degree affair so it's not "Captive" and can clean it regularly and easily.
If you have mild steel, I think I was using 309 rod in a TIG machine to weld the SS half coupling to the pipe, then simply drilled a hole with a drill. Depending on the size hole you drill you will alter the flow of EGR into the manifold when activated, if you drill it undersize, you will still pass smog, but will not be injecting the same level of exhaust gas, keeping the manifold slightly colder than usual you want to make sure the drilled hole is big enough...
Big enough to meet your goals of passing smog, that is... If you have the pipe there and no hole, they will fail you---they check the pipe to make sure the EGR is heating it up...
And you want enough to pass the dyno portion of the NOx check during the functional test.
But a 1/2" tube is more than big enough. I had swagelock on one end, and the stock SAE 45 Degree Flare-Nut on my 73 when I originally did the conversion to a set of headers back in 1989...
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I believe mylar is more radiant heat barrier in construction materials. I specified in in a couple of metal buildings due to it's properties.
I don't think it would survive the environment. That is why the mirrored polish stainless would work facing the exhaust---and like Derek mentioned, with the mill finish facing outward to the visible eye, would be very 'stock OEM looking'.
I have made a few SS heat Shields for the Bonneville Car from the stainless steel used on Munters / Atlas Copco regenerative dryer drums. It's pretty nicely polished for air handling use, and I actually scuff it with a DA and fine sandpaper to take the sheen off after metalworking it.
The side that faces the drums is what I prefer to face 'out' as it's almost exactly the same coloration and dull finish as the stock heat shields.
But a quick run with a cotton buff and triploi, and I can SEE myself in it!
MEH... I like dull and sneaky more than flashy and attention getting.
Outside of the Shark's Teeth on the bottom of my front bumper, that is! LOL
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Yep, there was an array of dealer equipped options and aftermarket manufacturers that supplied good quality parts for the Z back when it was new. I have seen them as well.
In addition, if anybody ever gets a chance to sit in or closely inspect Mr. K's personal 260Z, check out the sunroof in THAT! More like a modern BMW unit than anything from the aftermarket---I guess when you're running the ocmpany, you have some 'discretionary R&D Money for modifications that exceeds the normal buyer.
ANd if you like the sunroof, the one in Mr. K's car is wicked OEM_Like Quality. Flush outer opening, with retraction UNDER the roof. Much like the 69 VW Beetle I had when learning to drive... Very Nice.
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For leaks, use "SNOOP" sold though Swagelock distributors. It's MUCH better than dishwashing soap. It even suprised me how one would not show a leak and another would.
I'd ask if you are aftercooled from your compressor, and are you using high volumes before you shut down for the evening. If you are running the compressor a lot, the tank and air inside will heat up---especially if you don't have a good aftercooler. The resultant cooling overnight will cause a big drop in an 80 gallon tank. 20 psi would not be uncommon. From your water problems it sounds like you don't have a cooler.
Do you have an auto-drain on the tank? If it's releasing condensate overnight, it can also bleed it down.
The isolation valve should be a ball valve ideally, they have less incidence of leakage than cheap gate valves usually found in that service.
Do you have an EXTERNAL check valve on your line from the aftercooler to the tank? It's redundant, but this will help when the compressor's valves are leaking down.
For compressor valve check, take some good duct-tape and remove your air cleaner. Paste the tape over the hole where your air cleaner was, and observe. If it puffs up (and it should do it relatively quicikly) then you have some leakage on the valve system in your compressor.
Adding an external check valve rated for the discharge temperature will stop this, and depending on how big your compressor discharge line is, could be as little as $15. Which will be cheaper than overhauling your valves.
Just beware that if it is valves, they will only get worse, if you don't put an external check valve (Conbraco Ball-Style Check Valve or a Whitey/Nupro poppet style) in the system, eventually the valves will leak tank pressure into the compression chamber while running, elevating the discharge tempreature. This can lead to temperatures in excess of 451F, and lighting cigarettes off your discharge pipe...
But I digress....
YES, a quick-connect can most DEFINATELY leak with nothing on it, and that is one of the points you should SNOOP with the detector. They are cheap, if they are leaking, replace them. Consider "THOR" style connectors for main line connections, with the lighter duty "AMFLO" CP Style for point of use hoses, air tools etc...
My battery is dying, if you want more info---PM me. I do air compressors for a living. In Morocco now on a startup of a couple of 'baby' units. 888KW each...
Yep, these are 'babies' compared to some of the stuff I've worked on...but I have done/can do everything from fractional to multi-thousand horsepower systems.
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then I take it we are talking abuot black smoke then?
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LOL three years...
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That's the old JCR intake with a Camden Supercharger on it.
Likely it's a TBI throttle body, they originally came with a Holley Projection unit (Analog EFI Controller).
I have seen Carbs on that setup, a 650 Holley with some additional solenoids dumping fuel into it (the ProJection had a rather low upper horsepower limit...) for higher boosts. THey used a spacer under the carb to level it out.
I have a TERRIBLE internet connection here in Morocco(go figure, huh?) so watching the 9 minute video that guy posted is out for the time being.
I don't think Lagos will hold anything better for my layover...and Bonny Island in the Niger Delta... Well, someone stole my Malerone, 5 1/2 pairs of socks, my 2008 MSA Shirt, one of my new Dickies Denim shirts, and a pair of jeans so I'm lucky I'll be clothed, much less have a supply of anti-malarials to keep me from getting sick. I don't think Internet will be extant. I'm more interested in getting my malaria medicine. Dammit!
awesome 2+2
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Tomcat rims are cool. I got a set of Tomcats on my 71 Fairlady Z-S!
And the Celica (or is it Mitsubishi GTO) tail light panel is a nice touch as well.
Beats the same old euro lights you see everywhere, and which have become deriguer for show cars on this side of the pond.