Jump to content
HybridZ

Tony D

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    9963

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    74

 Content Type 

Posts posted by Tony D

    what rust is acceptable on a Z?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    The only problem that is most of Z's on LA are expansive but I will try to find a good deal with near rust free body.

     

    Thank you

     

    There are more area codes than 213.

    LA OC IE ...

     

    They are there under $1,000. I wouldn't say that's expensive.

     

    Which is cheaper? The $700 car that doesn't run, is complete, and costs a weeks time in prep to drive back home.

     

    Or the local car for 3X that a mount that requires $1,000 per side to have floor pans replaced?

     

    OR an "expensive" $3,500-5,000 rust-free Desert Car the runs, and that you drive back without spending a week prepping mechanicals?

     

    The question simply becomes WHEN you throw the money in the hole.

     

    My European buyers PREFER an UNTOUCHED car dragged in on a trailer. They know what they get...no shiny paint muddling the issues. Pone of the first cars I sent to The Netherlands was a complete rolling shell that was GIVEN to me after the PO. Salvaged it for the driveline. When acid dipped in Europe before chassis prepping...I got a call "this car has less rust on it than most Late-model BMW's I prep from local sources."

     

    Think about that comment, from a professional,chassis prep shop who is FIA certified for Roll Cage Design and Installation.

     

    Old desert faded paint may not be attractive, but it doesn't hide anything, either.

     

    Not how much you dump, but WHEN you dump it.

     

    The less you spend on "rust repair" the more you have for other things.

    what rust is acceptable on a Z?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Actually, it was called the Rusty Old Datsun and it was meant as a joke to tease the Corvette, NSX, and Evo guys I raced with.  There was no rust in the car.  One of the few cars I can say that about.

    Something about acid-dipping the body when initially prepped for BSP?

     

    SoCal,Desert Cars can likely still have that done to remove trace surface rust and retain integrity.

    Not something you want to do with a car from Back East...

    what rust is acceptable on a Z?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Back in 1979, my friend bought a 1969 Corvair Monza for a price I forget... He then spent $3500 doing 'rust restoration' adding fiberglass replacement panels, etc.... Extensive work that would be considerably more now, plus paint.
    In 1989 I landed in SoCal, and for $1,600 I bought a 1966 Corvair Corsa Turbo. No rust. It was the first Corvair I ever saw with all the original panels underneath it, where the cables and linkages weren't rusted to nothing...where GM Part Tags and grease pencil markings were still on it.

     

    Yeah, I was a stupid kid back then. There wasn't this thing called the internet where old dudes could tell me "Take that repair panel money, fly out to LA, spend a week with a bus pass and the classifieds because they are RUST FREE out there, and selling for $500!" All I had was the local Michigan paradigm that rust was inevitable, inescapable, and cost money to fix. Of COURSE they will tell you that, it's paying them to do so!

     

    My advice: Get on Craigslist, line up a dozen prospects, fly into LA on a cheap one-way, spend a few days looking around for a rust free driver....and drive it back.

     

    You will be money ahead.

     

    Rust repair on a car that is readily available WITHOUT the rust for a reasonable/comparable expenditure---with the lack of provenance or sentimental attachment to the chassis is a disease of the mind. There is no logic for that.

     

    My friend could not BELIEVE the condition of my 66 when I showed him. Frank280ZX didn't believe my stories, either until he bought a 1979 ZXR out of a garage in Garden Grove for $500 (off a Craigslist ad he saw in Amsterdam cruising the internet. Made a call "go buy it" and it was done. He shipped it to Amsterdam before really looking closely at it. When he started tearing it down (you know, "doing it right" in the rust-belt tradition of total disassembly because SOMETHING is bound to be at the failure point at this time!) he actually called me on the phone "THE SCREWS ARE STILL YELLOW! (cad plating intact) WE DON'T NEED TO USE PENETRATING OIL ON THE SCREWS! I WILL NEVER BUY A Z IN EUROPE AGAIN! (His prior purchase of a stateside Z was one from WISCONSIN which was exactly the paradigm he was expecting.

     

    It's not that way everywhere, and it's not more than what you would spend making it structurally sound and proper to go there and buy one and simply drive it back.

     

    Those who have heeded that advice, to a man, have not regretted it!

    Custom trailer for Z-car?

    in Fabrication / Welding

    Posted

    "Oh no, I'm a dog lover"

     

    Punctuation is everything...

     

    "Dog Lover"

     

    or 

     

    Dog "Lover"

     

    ???

     

    At least you aren't showering with it... I get a vision of Jeff Lebowski and The Marmot in the Tub when I read that....

     

    post-380-0-87532100-1413796470_thumb.jpg

     

    Introducing KagKag D'Azkal... he hangs around the house area.

    Shimming Lash Pads

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    More duration, more lift.

    Playing with lash only affects duration and valve timing events.

    By selectively altering variables antagonistically or sympathetically you can deduce which direction to go for power, how to optimize torque in a given set of parts, etc.

    A “Stock� Fuel Tank Solution

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    z-spec's shop in Sint Odenrode Netherlands makes a beautiful replica in aluminum of the Nissan Factory Rally tank for the S30 (100L capacity)... I've seen it, it's a work of art.

     

    But you have no spare tire well, just like a factory Z432R model. You can buy that panel from a variety of vendors from Japan, or fab it yourself if you have access to a simple bead roller.

    Mangoletsi Manifold

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    That's a standard methodology for actuating carbs used in Europe for years... That adjustable quadrant is nice touch. The firewall adapter is a nice piece as well, but I like the look of the stock 200SX Cable through the original hole!

    Crank pully sync magnet placement wrong? and does IAT sensor go here?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    If you spray meth, put it downstream of your I/C and BOV, with the IAT downstream of it all... Nearest the T/B

     

    As I said, ideally it would be in a runner to the intake port, but heat soak becomes an issue in low speed running with the non-cross flow head. The plenum isn't so bad, and a handy spacer between plenum and T/B makes for a handy multiple-point access-all point.

     

    Idle air bypass is integral in N/A T/B's of old, and then to simplify the casting in 82 they went external. Now the L28ET had a vacuum controlled idle speed air bypass, but in Europe, the L28ET had the exact same idle air bypass as the N/A cars did....it's connected before, and after the throttle plate (mine is in the J-Pipe, and goes in the old CSV hole.) this allows the throttle plate to be 100% closed at idle.

     

    This is the one I used:

    40590d1297375796-no-idle-screw-idle_adju

     

    Now, modern cars use fancy IAC Valves that idle up, fast idle, speed control for high alternator or A/C loads, but really the simple fixed bypass is easy to do and works great. The stock N/A bypass screw used 10 or 12mm hoses, way overkill! I pulled those fittings out by heating the body with a propane torch (like hot melt glue on them) and then tapped them for 1/4" hose. I used FI. Hose since I run 20+ psi of boost now and then, so it won't blow...the 1/4" line is good for zero to 2200 rpm. If you REALLY want idle up for fast idle, and A/C put some 12v solenoids found on modern vacuum operated accessories like EGR, etc, and hook on the J-Pipe side of the hose and idle bypass screw...I used a carb jet to give me fast idle, run off a GPO output configured to open at below 150F, and another relay hooked into my A/C clutch circuit so when the compressor pumps, it idles up. You and use idle bypass screws on each one if you wish, then you can adjust the speed to suit. I find a fixed orifice once defined by trial and error works fine.

    Crank pully sync magnet placement wrong? and does IAT sensor go here?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Correction: on an N/A it can go anywhere from the back of the intake valve to the air cleaner--most OEM's place it in the air box. I used the IAT from a '91 240SX on my 510.

     

    On a TURBO car, though, the IAT MUST be from the intake valve to either the turbocharger discharge or the Intercooler outlet---ideally in the airstream with flowing air as close as practical near the intake valve for proper air density calculations of the air as used by the engine for combustion. If you place it in the air box on a turbo car you will never calibrate it properly for the temperature difference between on boost and off-boost operation...

    Oil control and monitoring vitals on LS series engines

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted · Edited by Tony D

    I've never seen the electric valve on an accusump ever used other than at starting and stopping time.

    The accumulator bladder pushes oil into the system when below the preset pressure, and recharges when oil pressure recovers. An electric valve operating only when low would totally defeat the purpose of the accusump by preventing it's recharging automatically in-use.

     

    Usually warning lights are set below the accusump charge level ( mine was 30 psi in the accumulator, with a red light on a Hobbs switch at 7psi) red light=TROUBLE

     

    The electric valve or manual ball valve operation is the same: on before you start while cranking to prelube/buffer the bearings, and close the valve before you shut down. I hold RPMs up to have 30psi on my gauge, close the accusump valve, then shut down.

     

    In a run to the store...I don't bother turning it on unless the car has been sitting forever. I close it while it's still at fast idle, and off I go. It only stays on while I'm on-track or getting frisky. If you have radical compression, prelube/cranking assist is a nice way to go!

×
×
  • Create New...