Tony D

From what I can see, the Previa Engine is Wet Sump.

I figured... I just wanted to punctuate about the cheapest way you could make up a drysump. Guys with Chevys can do it CHEAP. Most of this stuff crosses no problem (tanks, pumps, coolers, etc). The A.R.E. and Aviad pans for the L-Engine just don't show up on E-Bay for some reason... And those will cost you dearly new!

Don't know what that is supposed to imply, but I thought I made it perfectly clear that searching E-Bay for NASCAR cast-off parts is a place to get whatever you need cheaply. So I guess the answer to that question would be 'Yes, there are NASCARS in my junkyards...right here at my fingertips via E-Bay!' For instance: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMALL-BLOCK-CHEVY-NASCAR-DRY-SUMP-PAN_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107063QQihZ014QQitemZ330175644204QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Peterson-Dry-Sump-Oil-Tank-NASCAR-Chevy-Ford-Dodge_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107066QQihZ007QQitemZ170157267805QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-Dry-Sump-Breather-Tank_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107058QQihZ007QQitemZ170157280280QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Barnes-6-stage-dry-sump-oil-pump-NASCAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6778QQihZ020QQitemZ300160938074QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-JONES-DRY-SUMP-OIL-PUMP-CRANKSHAFT-GEAR-cv_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38656QQihZ017QQitemZ270175200801QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NASCAR-MSD-PRO-BILLET-SBC-DISTRIBUTOR-SHAFT-DRY-SUMP_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQihZ004QQitemZ140066912498QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Kinda why I'm suggesting NSACAR spares... The stuff in the 911 is pretty much set up for that engine bay. The NASCAR stuff is standard Aftermarket stuff that is decently sized... the tank is going to be in the passenger's footwell anyway, so why use the odd shaped Porsche stuff (which, BTW is not easily cleaned...the aftermarket stuff is! A prime concern when reusing oil system goodies!!!)

I mean, for all it's worth, why not buy used NASCAR stuff of E-Bay? Much better quality and you can get rebuild parts reasonably enough. What is the impetus behind Dry Sump? "Dry Sump on a Budget" is kind of an Oxymoron.

Looks like the valve guide boss is cut back, and with the color looks like a si-bronze replacement.... Possibly.

I got tagged in my Bus on the 57 Northbound just south of the I10 Overpass one early morning, heading to the Pomona Swap Meet. CHP had stopped beyond me and walked back to me along the shoulder. As the cop is looking at my information, a side by side Pantera and Corvette BLOW by me at WELL over 120. Open Exhausts on both of them, I swear! Cop literally THROWS my info back to me and says almost the same thing: "Small Potatoes, slow it down! Have a nice day!" That have a nice day was yelled as he was jumping OVER the hood of his car to get back to the driver's side, and he was GONE! Sprayed the front of my bus with all sorts of Debris. Yeah, like he had a chance in hell to catch up. They were over the crest of the hill and into San Dimas by that time. And I'm sure they BOTH saw the CHP in front of my bus, and judging by the exhaust note did NOT decide lifting throttle was conducive to their license retention strategy. I figure they ducked down one of the next exits at the bottom of the hill and left the CHP wondering 'which way did they go-which way did they go?'

Actually, when he asked the speed limit, and then he responded with a definate range that 'was in excess' kind of limits what the cop can realistically write the ticket for... almost universally cops have a digital recorder running during a straffic stop, and if you deny any knowledge, they are open to write whatever speed you want. But if you state a speed, it becomes very difficult in court to defend a 'spontaneous utterance and admission of guilt'... Sure, if he had said 'It was 35mph, and I was going 35' it would be easy to know that the driver is mis-stating the obvious. But by saying he knows it was 35 posted, and that he was going 'around 50' he's admitting 50mph or thereabouts, and makes it very difficult for a ticket for 70mph (especially paced on a twisty road) to stand up in court should the ticket go that far. But the old standard cop questions "Do you know how fast you were going?" is a clear fishing expedition for someone to lock-stock-and-barrel incriminate themselves...at that point it's best to keep your mouth shut. Or do what the cops do: Make Declarative Statements to be recorded on their digital recorder which will be taken at face value in the abscense of any other evidence to impeach them. I have a Digital Recorder that I keep with me for notes on a jobsite...it's a matter of flicking it on when you get lit up and saying the date and time and quickly giving a synopsis of what you were doing "10/28/2007 1700hrs, just got lit up by DPS while going 45mph on Oro Grande Road Eastbound" and then just letting it roll during the traffic stop. Same thing the cop is doing. But when / if you go to fight any ticket... you can really help your odds by questioning the cop to know if he used a PVR to refresh his memory while writing his report after the fact. If he did, your PVR recording is likely to carry as much weight as his, and if he's clearly fibbing, you can usually get off really lightly if not scot-free from the offence. The Yellow Speed Limit signs are also a good point, it's a cautionary speed, not a solid speed. I got nibbed in missouri by a cop trying to nail me for 81 in a 45 because I came up an off ramp at freeway speed. I told him sitting in the front seat of the cruiser that if that was what he was going to write it for, that I WOULD be back to fight the ticket, and that he should clear his calander for the court date, beause it was a yellow sign and not a white-and-black, meaning it was only a suggested speed, and not a (what california calls) prima-facaie speed limit. He wrote me for 81 in a 70 instead. Which was still B.S. but after that I refused to trust a Ford Speedo in ANY Hertz Rental. Matter of fact, I bought a GPS so I could verify the speedo before setting my speedo. I had told the cop "I know you guys ticket above 77mph, my speed was cruise set to 77, why would I set it at 81? I got all day to get to St. Joseph?" Which was the truth! Yeah, I was intending to exceed the posted speed limit by 7 mph...and I'd take a ticket reflecting that...but 81 in a 70? I was all set to fight it until I realized the fine was like $35 (and not the $200+ like in CA) at which point I said: "Meh!" and moved on... But I wasn't going to suck on an 81 in a 45, noway nohow! "ironic though. getting pulled over for SPEEDING in a bug with 40hp with a top speed of 70mph. I kind of miss that bug, but having the z is a whole new adventure." On that note, I was driving my 62 microbus (supposed to have the same 1200 as the bug!) up US23 south of Tawas Michigan when the Iosco County Sheriff pulled me over for 65 in a 45 up a hill. When he came up to me he says 'I got you at 65 coming up this hill back here!' My response: "IN THIS?!?!?!?!" He stopped for a second...pushed his hat back slightly...kind of mumbled 'Yeah, you're right, I think I'm going to run the cal again. Have a nice day!' and went back to his cruiser! Of course I had a dual weber 2110cc engine in there at the time and could bury the speedo at will... but the incredulousness of the reply "IN THIS?" must have been enough! A stock 40 horse in a bus is maybe a 55mph vehicle with two people in it, 65 with a tailwind. Uphill? Hell, I could usually back up a hill faster than I could go up in 1st because it was a lower gear!!! Ahhh, VW's. Good OLD VW's! LOL

Actually, with the information gleaned from the recent Wind Tunnel Test...that car would be an interesting design study as-is!

I just bought that E-Bay Kit by stopping by Troy's Store. MSA was out of Precision Weatherstripping Kits, so I bought the same kit from Troy (Too Intense Restorations) for $30 less than MSA wanted. I dropped it in Holland for someone, but from what I saw the kit was far better than the Trash I got from Long Motor Company (Now Black Dragon Auto) in the 80's... What can I say, old impressions die hard! I was told the ONLY part not in that kit was the riveted on rubber pieces that go on the front of the doors. The kit Precision sells now is supposed to be 'Universal' 240-280Z. My kit came WITH weatherstrip adhesive (Good 3M Black Adhesive)...I was amazed it made it through TSA Inspection! The Windshield and Hatch Glass BOTH used the stainless steel trim strip, so it's exactly like the OEM in that regard. I bought this kit from Too Intense Restorations on October 2nd, so my information is indicative of his current stock. I would not hesitate to return and buy another set. Matter of fact, for the price I probably will! LOL

Normally 45 degree cuts are considered the minimum, with 30 degrees being more common for exit. If you calculate the cross-sectional area of the ellipse being formed by the angle cut, you can see there is a point where you really don't get a great increase in opening area for a more radical cut. I think it's slightly more than 30 degrees where it simply doesn't open up appreciably. You can see when you take a 2.5" round hole, and then compare it with the surface area available form the 45 Degree cut, you can see the area increased by the cut. Same for 30 degrees. I'm curious, if I could get you a Db Meter, would you be interested in doing some runs and recording the sound pressure level inside the cabin. Reason I'm asking, with the side exhaust, this would really throw a kink in the CHP Mandated Testing Parameter for Roadgoing Vehicles. Their tests require a Db Meter to be placed directly behind the vehicle at a specific distance with the engine at idle and some other throttle opening. I would think your exhaust exiting out the side of the car could be pretty noisy, and free flowing---yet STILL easily pass the CHP Testing standard. If you have ever noticed some of the aftermarket exhausts for the hondas have tailpipes that point up at a 45 degree angle...it's precisely because the sound is directed upwards a way from the CHP noise monitoring devices! But an internal Db Level may be more quantifiable than those sound clips. To me it sounds pretty quiet. Then again, when my friend's mufflers rotted off on his Corvair I thought it 'sounded about right' when taking a ride, so maybe it's time for me to go to more empirical evidence than my own ears! LOL

What is the cost of production of the vegetable oil. I'm not arguing the fact that his cost is lower than commercially available Diesel fuel. That is probably true. Every Tuesday from 1980 to 1982 I would load up a salesman with a Diesel Rabbit with the cooking oil from the McDonald's I worked at...guy had a deal set up so his sales route was in conjunction with the three stores in Alpena Oscoda and Tawas so he could fill a large aluminum tank in his hatchback area, and basically the guy didn't shut off his engine from September to May (otherwise the heater coil in the tank would go cold, and the whole schebang would revert to solid crisco!) For an individual using waste base stocks it indeed is viable. But as an industry, it's a big lie that it somehow will 'save the planet using renewable oil'. They are using an individual's costs, and totally disregarding all the costs in fuel and refining to GET the base-stock in the first place. Cooking oil does cost about 35% MORE than diesel on a per-gallon basis as it comes from the refinery...meaning without anyn road taxes being charged, diesel is about 55% cheaper to produce than vegetable oil! I have been a big proponent of fuel independence since my hippie days when I attended the Mother Earth News Alcohol Fuel Seminar Series down in North Carolina lo some 30 years ago. Hell, I was a 13 year old going to this thing instead of going on vacation. All sorts of bearded oldtimers that 'smelled like otto's jacket' interested in Farm Fuel Production. For an individual to make subsistence fuel, it is possible. But on a massive scale as something to 'save the planet' it's a big sham. It won't work. using areable land to make fuel instead of food is a big mistake, and will cause far more wars than simply fighting for oil. Oil is not a necessity. Food is. When you trade food production for a non-necessity such as vehicular fuel you make a dangerous tradeoff that moves in the wrong direction for not only the country, but the world as a whole. But from an individual standpoint you can get cheap fuel as long as your base stock is available cheap enough. From that standpoint it's economically an alternative. Just remember, used vegetable oil doesn't seep out of the ground and become useable right then and there. There is a cost to produce it, you just don't see it as it's considered 'expended commercially' when you start with it. From that standpoint, it is NOT an economical alternative!

911 has 21 qt dry sump oiling system

Oh Dude, someone stole your designs for the 84 F-Body Redesign! LOL I was in Japan at that time, and was assisting on a full refitting of a 67 Camaro involving greenfoam overlays on the stock body panels. We made a complete front and rear rebody... I think there were six Japanese guys working on it (three on each end) as well as myself and two other Americans who came to work on it every day after work from aroudn 5pm to about 11pm each evening, as well as 12-14 hours a day on the weekends (though on Saturday nights and a lot of Sunday that was more beer drinking and racing time! LOL) As I recall, that was something like 2 1/2 or 3 months...all summer to get the body prepped to make the molds. Having gone through all that, having the body perfect and ready to make the mold off...laying that goop and mat over the pristine bodywork was stressful! I know where you sit, man. That must have taken the better part of a year (all winter at least) to get to the point you are at in those photos...especially if there were only a couple of guys working on it, after your regular jobs! I remember that Camaro to this day...it's been the reason I have been so lax in making molds off my 73 body panels for transfer to the next car... Now thanks to HybridZ I found a place that has flares that are 'close enough' for me to simply modify them instead of repop my own car! I never look forward to making molds on body panels. It still has a unique look, I like it!

IMO, for the effort of routing the thing, I'd put in a Harrison or Serk cooler. I don't know the heat rejection capabilities of the OEM Turbo Cooler, but since it uses funky SAE 45 degree fittings, and not 'standard' 37 JIC stuff, I'd simply switch to something more efficient. If you (should I reveal this?) search on "NACSAR OIL COOLER" in E-Bay you will find a BUTTLOAD of high capacity coolers that will work FAR better than most smaller crap that is commercially available, and can be had at a reasonable price, albiet being used. The NASCAR cast-off stuff is really high quality, and I have bought coolers like that for oil, tranny, and differential coolers. Come to think of it, I just successfully imported the Euro R200 Differential cover with all the pickup tubing and screens for the differential coolers, so I got to photograph it and get the information out...

One last item, to say there are no 'supercharged' diesels that actually boost pressure to do more than scavenge the cylinders is also plain wrong. Early stationary engines, as well as several mobile engines used gear driven suprechargers to boost engine performance. Some of the Cooper GMV series produced before 1940 used huge contrifugal compressors as an engine boosting device. Many of the mobile engines used compound roots blowers for higher pressures which were gear driven, or crankshaft driven straight off the crankshaft. Diesel or Petrol, the designs were interchangable. Many stationary engines were designed to run on Diesel, and where you normally would have a diesel injector, operated off a lobe on the cam...you have a 'gas admission valve' which opens a third valve allowing gasseous fuel to be admitted to the intake tract for combustion. Hell, to think of it, I've owned at least two 2-Stroke Cars in my lifetime. A Suzuki Cervo, and a Suzuki Jimny Jeep. For the market, they both were stellar successes in my eyes. I had nary a problem with either vehicle. The Jeep Ate Clutch Cables every 25K km, and both the cars needed spark plugs to be changed on a regular basis. Other than that, run the hell out of them and they just kept going and going and going... I sold the Jeep and bought a Twin-Charged Suzuki Alto. It had a Roots Blower, as well as a Turbocharger, ran some ridiculous amount of boost, had a redline like a sportbike and sequential shifting. A screaming 550cc's of DOHC Microcar. And no, I was like 120# lighter then so I had no problem fitting in the car.... Man, that Alto was a hooot to drive! LOL I digress...

That would be an Ajax engine, or on a ship more than likely a Fairbanks Morse. Most Two Strokes do NOT use Reed Valves. They use either Rotary Valves or Piston Porting. And this is why they are totally suitable for forced induction. Even with reed valves in the intake as the 'anti-reversion' device, the exhaust is invariably piston-ported, and works fine in turbo service. But Ajax and Fairbanks Morse use the opposed piston, common combustion chamber design. Another which is bitchenwickedcool to watch in operation or even to look over from a design standpoint is the "Deltic Engine" which has THREE crankshafts which are linked via gearing to a central shaft running through the center of the DELTA configured engine block (think of those common combustion chambered engines, set up so they configure a triangle, with SIX pistons at any given time being able to give power to any of the three crankchafts...) I think you can find Deltic Engine information on Google... It's worth a look if you want to see a reaaaaallly cool engine design!

Two Strokes take to turbocharging very well. As for the comments about Detroits, they have 17:1 CR in the 71 Series and that is definately enough to start compression. The blower in the Detroit is there to scavenge the cylinders, and the Turbocharger is either altitude compensation or power boosting. A Detroit V871-T will have a blower for idle scavenging, and once turbo boost comes up sufficiently to scavenge the cylinders in many cases the DDEC Controller will disconnect drive to the blower to allow the turbo to continue the scavenging function, as well as going to positive pressure (in some cases 45psi+) for engine power boosting. In the old days a simple pressure control anneroid connected to the fuel rack would twist and allow more fueling comeing from the injectors...but now the peizeo injectors and the DDEC controller will control that much more efficiently. Talk that a Two-Stroke can't be turbocharged is simply foolishness. Just an FYI, the Snowmobile Mr. Unser got busted on when he trespassed in the national park was a turbocharged two-stroke with well above 200hp. They have been selling turbokits for Snowmachines for YEARS.

Actually this would be a highly recomended modification. A "Baloney Cut End" is almost required in this case...not so much for the direction of flow (which it would do, especially if you placed the longest point forward, opening to the rear) but for decrease of the pressure where the gasses exit the piping. A baloney cut increases the surface area of the pipe making the flow exiting the pipe to drastically decrease it's speed...it's like discharging into a much larger pipe. It not only decreases exhaust velocity, but it also increases scavenging effects. It's a highly recomended addition. Watch industrial stacks for process flow, and you will ALWAYS see them angle-cut. A straight pipe will make more of a 'pop' for each pulse that comes out, and angle cut pipe will more 'woosh' for each pulse.

How's that again? The thing is a muffler, especially in the application you use it. The difference between a 'muffler' and a 'resonator' is purely in their position in the exhaust stream and their designed function at that position. Because something is straight through does not immediately make it a 'resonator'. Putting it at a point in the exhaust system where it takes out a specific exhaust system resonance frequency (this could be before or after another 'muffler') is what dictates it's nomenclature. A Muffler knocks down all frequencies, whereas a resonator knocks down a specific frequency or set of frequencies. So as you are using it, indeed it IS a muffler. Were you to have two of them, placed traditionally they could both be considered mufflers. But if you started playing with positioning of the front end unit to take out resonance in a specific rpm range (like the boomy 2500 rpm cruise range, usually knocked out placing it under the tranny) then the front one could be the Resonator. But if you put it in a generic under-tranny placement position, and then sized the rear unit for removing turbine whine specifically, the rear one would be the resonator. Generally mufflers will have a chambered construction, but not always. This is like "Freeze Plug" with BRAAP. It bugs me when people think because it's a straight through design that 'it's not a muffler, it's a resonator'.... My weakness is revealed... This setup looks good though, I'd not considered a stainless muffler AS the downpipe... I have a setup where the chambered muffler is under my seat in a box, exiting out the side. This may make it more friendly with smaller units in two places. I'm going to have to redesign now...

You will not see black smoke out the back end of the car until the AFR is into the 9:1 Region. At 10:1 I could not see any smoke at all out the tailpipe (non-catalyst exhaust). Until it dropped into the 9's, the smoke did not show up---so you can be plenty rich and never see a whiff of black smoke out back, so don't put much credence in that evidence! Timing and Fuel are what will cause this, unless you have some sort of plugged exhaust, or terribly restricted inlet. How do you know your timing is not an issue?

I'd shoot for a more efficient oil cooler like on Helix's setup. That tubing and perforated fin cooler is terribly space inefficient, as well as not haveing great heat transfer properties. A good folded fin Harrison Style Oil Cooler will reject much more heat with a MUCH smaller footprint, making alternative positions (like down low in the front spoiler...) much more plausible. That thing looks like a tranny cooler for my F350 Turbodiesel! The JDM solution is a 1st Gen Mazda RX7 Cooler, and they work wonderfully!

930 Flares anybody? http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/735000-735999/735451_189_full.jpg My car had these done in FRP back in 1981 by the previous owner Roger Puffer. I went for years trying to figure out what kind of flares they were as I'd not seen them anywhere else. Then one day on Beach Blvd up in LaHabra this Porsche idles up alongside me...him looking at me, me looking at him. "Oh, 930 Turbo Flares, that makes sense! I got to get me some of those chip guards the P-Cars have!" And the secret was over. It looked better in Black... Now alas it's resting in faded primer grey waiting for rework. And megathanks for that 930 fender post! Those guys are about an hour away, and I'll be damned if I'm rebuilding my flares from scratch on another car!!! That website alone will save me hundreds of hours making molds off my current car for transfer to another!

Somewhat Firebirdish from the front, eh? Man, I don't even want to think what kind of time you had into that to put it aside!!!

Books are fine, but really hands on work is how you will make the links. See if there is a local trades college that has some bodywork classes...then see if you can get a copy of the syllabus---they usually have a series of very good books for the classes. You can read up, then take the class to answer all the questions that will come from reading the books! If you can get into the class, do so, you will be glad you did!